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25 April 2013, 04:21 AM | #1 |
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Top vintage buying tips...
Folks
I'm writing a series of short articles about tips for vintage watch buying. So far the tips have been... Buy the seller Do your research Be patient; act quickly Next up will probably be something about originality and then maybe thinking about getting a watch you really like (seems obvious). All of these have come from alive I've received here. What other non-model specific tips do folks think would be good for those who haven't found the forum yet? |
25 April 2013, 04:26 AM | #2 |
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always take off the caseback and gasket to check for pitting or corrosion
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25 April 2013, 06:35 AM | #3 |
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Don't buy into that NOS and never polished crap.
Have a model in mind and dig deep into the different variations of that model. Choose one and know all... down to movement, dial variations, correct crown, correct insert, correct endlinks, bracelet and insure it's as original to the period it reflects. You will NEVER know if it was swapped for another dial or any other period correct part. You will never be 100% positive but research, research, research will help you lower the risk of buying a franken. See with your eyes and know what the model SHOULD look like. The more original the higher the price. Know what RSC Service parts look like... Service dials, hands, insert, crystal, crowns, datewheels... etc. drive the price down. Know what those individual parts go for on the market too which will help you justify prices... for ex. a service insert can cost as little as $100-125 while an original fat font insert can go for $500+! That's a big difference. Other characteristics that significantly drive price up and down is case condition (over-polished? chipped? deep scratches?), patina color, matching hands, dial and pearl, faded insert, dial texture/color, rarity... you'll figure out real quick and it takes and eye and many sales ads to figure out the "formula" in how these prices come about. You will begin to understand what's over-priced, what's a good deal and what to stay far far away from at just a glance. Beyond the model, understand the maintenance side of it... Some movements are so old that finding parts is rare and/or expensive and can also result into getting parts custom made as the only solution. Watch for rust that can be commonly found around the rehaut and caseback which can lead to failed pressure tests. Watch for bracelet stretch as well. Biggest advice is RESEARCH and patience. |
26 April 2013, 12:13 AM | #4 | |
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Quote:
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Member of NAWCC since 1990. INSTAGRAM USER NAME: SPRINGERJFP Visit my Instagram page to view some of the finest vintage GMTs anywhere - as well as other vintage classics. |
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25 April 2013, 07:20 AM | #5 |
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A lesson learned...if you like things original or at least with parts that could be original to the time period (especially dials), buy a watch with the right parts in the first place.
Making an emotional decision on what seems like a good deal for a "fixer-upper" only to search endlessly for the right part can be awful. Just ask my GMT that needs an OCC dial!
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Rolex:5512/1680Red/14060M/1675/16710-Pepsi/1016/14270/1655 Tudor: 79180/94010 Lollipop/94110 Snowflake/THC PAM: 048/249 IWC: 3536 Ti/Mark XII Heuer (Tag): Temporada/Super Pro/F1 Seiko: 6159/6105/6117/6138/6139/6309/69799 |
25 April 2013, 01:25 PM | #6 |
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It would be easiest to meet face to face, and have a legitimate rolex service centre inspect it (at a cost). And you're done.
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My collections.. Plus PAM 233, 232, 249 & PAM 417. |
25 April 2013, 01:30 PM | #7 |
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ask here first before buying!
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25 April 2013, 02:34 PM | #8 |
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All very interesting and great tips guys.
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26 April 2013, 01:39 AM | #9 |
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Thanks for the contributions. There's some good stuff here and it's well worth breaking it all down into bite size bits.
When I finish the short series, I'll slap it on the forum too. Keep 'em coming. |
26 April 2013, 02:50 AM | #10 |
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26 April 2013, 05:44 AM | #11 |
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One seemingly obvious point that burned me once: Make sure model and serial numbers are clearly legible between the lugs. Back in the early days of my watch madness, I just assumed the numbers would be there, but I bought a 1680 that had the serial number intentionally polished away. I was able to return the watch, but others might not be as fortunate. Great advice above!
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26 April 2013, 06:26 PM | #12 |
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It's the obvious stuff that gets everyone. If you're new to it, nothing is obvious.
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30 April 2013, 04:57 AM | #13 |
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Thanks to the tipsters.
Phillycheez features heavily in http://vintagewatchesmiddleeast.com/...han-you-think/ Will post one big story when I get to 10! |
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