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Old 17 June 2014, 05:06 AM   #1
Satoree
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Help Buying A Watch For My Father

Hello everyone. I'm a brand new Rolex addict. I think they're absolutely beautiful but otherwise I know very little about them.

I've been looking for a Rolex for my father for the last several weeks and I'm stuck. I think I've looked at almost 5000 different individual watches online in that time and I've started to get an idea of what I'm looking for.

I really like the look of 1950's and 1960's Oyster Precisions and Oyster Perpetuals. Unfortunately I've found very few of those as large as 36mm and that's definitely the size I need. I'm open to newer watches if I could find one somewhat similar in design(does something like that exist?).

Either one of these would be perfect, but only the first is 36 mm. I'd actually probably buy the first if the seller was local or I could verify them as honest.

http://www.chrono24.com/en/rolex/oys...=0&tab=details

This is my favorite

http://www.chrono24.com/en/rolex/rol...=4&tab=details

Also, what potential cons should I be aware of when buying a vintage watch? How can I protect myself? Thank you.
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Old 17 June 2014, 06:33 AM   #2
crowncollection
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Those prices are high imho
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Old 17 June 2014, 06:35 AM   #3
andromeda160
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There were some 36mm oyster precisions in the early 50's but were very limited production, there are some that measure 35mm which is extremely hard to tell the difference between 36mm as the precision case has a much lower profile on the wrist when worn. I have a 1972 gilt dial oyster precision an absolutely love it. If you want a 36mm you're going to have to go with the datejust, or to stay with no date, an explorer. When buying vintages like these really just look at the lug size, an ask about recent servicing as the service costs can be near a watches value if anything is wrong. The dials when redialed almost never bear swiss or t Swiss t. Markings at the bottom of the dial, and stay away from redialed watches. Post pictures with clear dial shots of prospective watches you're interested in this thread to adress any concerns. Air king 5500s and rolex 1501 dates wear much smaller than my rolex oyster precision, although I'm not sure if my model is 34 or 36mm as I've read it's 34 but it looked like 35/36 with my mitutoyo ruler . Ref 6426, which is the same one as the royal you posted. Price on the 6546 is steep at $2800 but $2300 for the oyster royal is pretty much retail as the royal dials are pretty scarce and it's black which adds a slight premium.
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Old 17 June 2014, 08:51 AM   #4
Satoree
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There were some 36mm oyster precisions in the early 50's but were very limited production, there are some that measure 35mm which is extremely hard to tell the difference between 36mm as the precision case has a much lower profile on the wrist when worn. I have a 1972 gilt dial oyster precision an absolutely love it. If you want a 36mm you're going to have to go with the datejust, or to stay with no date, an explorer. When buying vintages like these really just look at the lug size, an ask about recent servicing as the service costs can be near a watches value if anything is wrong. The dials when redialed almost never bear swiss or t Swiss t. Markings at the bottom of the dial, and stay away from redialed watches. Post pictures with clear dial shots of prospective watches you're interested in this thread to adress any concerns. Air king 5500s and rolex 1501 dates wear much smaller than my rolex oyster precision, although I'm not sure if my model is 34 or 36mm as I've read it's 34 but it looked like 35/36 with my mitutoyo ruler . Ref 6426, which is the same one as the royal you posted. Price on the 6546 is steep at $2800 but $2300 for the oyster royal is pretty much retail as the royal dials are pretty scarce and it's black which adds a slight premium.
That gives me a lot to think about.

So definitely I should ask whether it has been redialed and serviced. If it hasn't been serviced, I'm guessing it's not really safe to buy?

I was thinking that if I bought on eBay, with a 30 day return policy I can have it checked out by someone locally to me and send it back should there be any problems. Is that a good or bad idea?

As far as measuring, what lug size am I looking for if I'm looking for what most people would consider a 36 mm watch?

Is a vintage Rolex heavier than its newer counterparts?

The explorers just don't do it for me. I prefer the no date watches although I'm not opposed to a Datejust. I just haven't seen one that really got me.

Thanks!
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Old 18 June 2014, 03:42 AM   #5
andromeda160
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If the watch hasn't been serviced in 5-10years it definitely should effect the price by roughly $500. If the dial isn't original, it's just best to move on since there are so many out there. Vintage rolex is lighter than the newer ones but just as sturdy. Bracelets were made of folded links and rivets as opposed to solid link bracelets, but the overall case design is relatively the same. You could check out the milgauss depending on budget. It's a larger case no date. 36mm watches are always 20mm lug with as far as I know, my watch is 19mm
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Old 18 June 2014, 03:49 AM   #6
Satoree
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I really love the precisions. I'm very interested in buying the 6426 I posted here

http://www.chrono24.com/en/rolex/oys...=0&tab=details

Do you have any idea how I might go about doing that safely? Would I use some type of escrow service?

What do you think about the price? Are there questions I can ask to ensure I'm getting what I'm paying for?

Thanks again for your time.
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Old 19 June 2014, 06:43 AM   #7
kirker
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Do you have any idea how I might go about doing that safely? Would I use some type of escrow service?
You shouldn't need any sort of escrow service if buying through Chrono24. If you look at the link you listed, you'll see a checkmark graphic on the right side underneath the pics of the watch; that means the dealer is a Chrono24 Trusted Seller (and Chrono24 itself is very well-respected). You can also pay with a credit card that includes buyer protection, which most non-debit credit cards have these days; on the off chance the watch turned out to be a fake (or if it broke in transit), you'd be covered.

To answer some other questions:
  • Don't worry if a watch hasn't been serviced recently; you can get it done yourself if need be. (You can also go about it the expensive way -- sending it to Rolex corporate in Geneva -- or the cheap way (finding a local, highly recommended specialist to do it for a fraction of the cost).)
  • You haven't said whether your father is a watch aficionado; I'm asking only because this could affect the question of whether to consider a re-dialed watch. Most collectors blanch at the thought; many neophytes OTOH will look at one and think, "Why'd this cheapskate buy me an old watch in crappy condition?"

Finally, I don't suppose you have an idea of what kind of watch your father *wants*? You shouldn't be thinking Rolex solely for some sort of perceived "prestige factor." Sure, Rolexes are excellent watches, but you might want to keep in mind that back in the '60s, the era in which these watches were made, the most prominent sports watch of the time was the Omega Speedmaster because it's what Buzz Aldrin and Neil Armstrong wore to the moon. (I hope it isn't heresy to state this on a Rolex board!) Today, of course, the Daytona (and more particularly the PN Daytona) has taken over as the preeminent '60s sports watch, but believe it or not those watches mostly sat around collecting dust until the late '70s, which IIRC is when they first started being associated with Newman.

Anyway, just something to think about. Both my father and I are watch collectors, for instance, and while I focus on sports watches, his taste leans more towards Pateks, so I'd probably get him one of those if I was buying him a watch. He also overwhelmingly prefers dress watches, so even if I didn't get him a Patek I'd look at something like an IWC that's very clean and simple.
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Old 18 June 2014, 04:22 AM   #8
Mark020
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Case is 34mm which is small. I'd go for 36mm. And do yourself a favor and buy in the US. 1) It is cheaper and 2) you are not allowed to import Rolex as a US citizen unless it is on your wrist.
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Old 18 June 2014, 04:52 AM   #9
Satoree
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Case is 34mm which is small. I'd go for 36mm. And do yourself a favor and buy in the US. 1) It is cheaper and 2) you are not allowed to import Rolex as a US citizen unless it is on your wrist.
I thought the description listed it at 36mm? Can your recommend any particular models?

I didn't know you couldn't import! That's good to know, thanks!
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Old 18 June 2014, 07:35 AM   #10
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I thought the description listed it at 36mm? Can your recommend any particular models?

I didn't know you couldn't import! That's good to know, thanks!
36mm incl crown. This is specifically done to fool people like you. Get yourself a decent Datejust (so not a Date). Plenty around for decent money.

@Kingair: I'm neither old nor grey
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Old 18 June 2014, 06:38 AM   #11
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Case is 34mm which is small. I'd go for 36mm. And do yourself a favor and buy in the US. 1) It is cheaper and 2) you are not allowed to import Rolex as a US citizen unless it is on your wrist.
x 2 !

Listen to the old and grey people ;)

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Old 19 June 2014, 12:02 AM   #12
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+1, good advice if he is planning on wearing it every day. Bang for the buck is a quick set plastic Date Just with a cool dial imho. Classis look and 36mm size. M
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Old 19 June 2014, 04:42 AM   #13
Mark020
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Bang for the buck is a quick set plastic Date Just with a cool dial imho. Classis look and 36mm size. M
References are 16xxx (so 5 digits, 4 digits is no quick set). A decent one (with steel bracelet) should be USD 2-2.5k in the US (no box/papers). Have it serviced by an independent watchmaker for USD 300 or so and your father will have a watch which he can wear without problems for 10 years.
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Old 19 June 2014, 03:22 AM   #14
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The manual wind with the 36mm case is the 6424. Very clean look.
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Old 20 June 2014, 01:29 AM   #15
Widows Son
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The manual wind with the 36mm case is the 6424. Very clean look.
I have one and love it!!! It's my birth year watch.
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Old 20 June 2014, 02:50 AM   #16
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From what you have written and asked, you're not even close to being prepared to make a good and educated purchase of a vintage watch.
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Old 20 June 2014, 03:20 AM   #17
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This is an important point. Musician and watch collector John Mayer bought a number of fake (actually partially fake) vintage watches from a seller he trusted, and Mr. Mayer seems to have a good knowledge of watches (there is a Youtube video by Hodinkee on his collection). This is currently in litigation.

So if a relatively experienced buyer can be fooled, where does that leave someone with little experience in owning vintage Rolexes, etc.?

Buy very carefully. If it were me, I would only buy a vintage from a trusted seller on this site, because they have sterling reputations to maintain. But that's me.


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From what you have written and asked, you're not even close to being prepared to make a good and educated purchase of a vintage watch.
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