Rolex Cellini or other Dress Watch?

[mwallens]

I am currently helping a friend decide on the purchase of a new dress watch and his budget is 20k (preferably 15k). While I know some would say the "right" move here is a Patek Calatrava, Vacheron Traditionnelle or A. Lange & Sohne Saxony, he is looking for something interesting and different that stands out from the pack visually. He is looking for rose gold and a leather strap but does not want the ordinary look of gold with a white/silver face. We had narrowed it down to the black Rolex Cellini Date or gray JLC Master Ultra Slim Moon when it occurred to me that there is a whole world out there of smaller, often independent watchmakers. I have been doing research and come across the H. Moser & Cie. Mayu Marrone, Arnold and Sons HMS1 (gray face), Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate (black face).

What are your thoughts on going with the more main stream brands versus the smaller and/or independent manufactures? Are there other suggestions you may have given the criteria?

Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.

[teager]

I'm not sure about the small independents you mention but it seems the Cellini doesn't get a lot of love on this forum! In fact it hard gets mentioned at all.

I love the watch and I expect you'd get a good discount off list price for one but for that amount of money it brings a Calatrava or Saxony into the equation which is probably where my money would go.

[eightbore]

Frankly, while it is a bit out of spec relative to what he wants, I would get a Nomos Orion 1989 and put 15K in the bank or use it to buy a couple other watches to start or round out a collection. Otherwise, if he is intent on spending that on one dress watch, I would go JLC any day of the week and twice on Sunday.

[Runnin' Rebel]

50519 is an amazing Cellini !!!

[Rolextix]

You may be hard pressed not to go with a Vacheron, calatrava, or ALS. In fact, I'd call your friend crazy not to go with one of those. However, JLC is also a good pick.


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[zama]

Originally Posted by Rolextix

You may be hard pressed not to go with a Vacheron, calatrava, or ALS. In fact, I'd call your friend crazy not to go with one of those. However, JLC is also a good pick.


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I would agree with this, maybe a Moser they look nice, not sure on price drop, Parmigiani are nice as well in that space with a good discount.

[Star Ferry]

He could get a reverso. Not exactly rare but the case shape stands out from the pack

[OrangeSport]

There are many great choices listed. Historically I wouldn't have considered Rolex's offerings in that company, but they have really upped their game with these:



Especially for a dress watch which can be a little more casual too.

Patrimony for me though, or an a Arnold and Sonf, or, or..... Oh I don't know... I do like ALS!..

[Rock]

The important thing here is that he makes his decision having had the chance to peruse a variety of watches that meet his criteria.
Price is not important unless he is trying to impress somebody or massage his own ego.
Personally I think the new Cellinis are stunning. All of them.
I've never been impressed by "big" names so I buy what appeals to me not what draws gasps of admiration from the people who worship money.

[HL65]

Can't go wrong with Lange, Patek or VC for dress watch. I would take Lange myself but tell your friend to go try a bunch on and that is the only way to decide. As for Cellini's not my thing.

[jon_jon]

Originally Posted by HL65

Can't go wrong with Lange, Patek or VC for dress watch. I would take Lange myself but tell your friend to go try a bunch on and that is the only way to decide. As for Cellini's not my thing.

I agree with the Lange, Patek or VC as great choices in the $20K+ price range, over the Cellini.

In the $5K-$10K range, there are definitely more options to choose from.

[1William]

I would go with a pre-owned JLC and save a lot of money. It would handle the dress watch and could be a good daily watch.

[jrs146]

Originally Posted by 1William

I would go with a pre-owned JLC and save a lot of money. It would handle the dress watch and could be a good daily watch.

+1 on this. JLC makes some amazing watches that fall in between dressy and sporty and pack a HUGE value, especially pre-owned.


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[77T]

If he is less aware of brand name vs. visually different, then there are so many smaller watchmaker choices. One thing I would say is to think long-term.

By that I mean the staying power of the manufacturer - will they be here or defunct? How and where can routine warranty servicing be done? Availability of replacement parts for the model? Can independent watchmakers work on the piece - and get OEM parts to fix it?

That's where the larger mainstream companies excel.

Those are some criteria for him to consider along with looks.

While not exciting, that's where a traditional choice makes sense. Dress watches usually mean discrete, graceful timekeeping to me...




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[Old Expat Beast]

Honestly speaking, I'd rather go Grand Seiko than Cellini.

[eightbore]

Originally Posted by Old Expat Beast

Honestly speaking, I'd rather go Grand Seiko than Cellini.

Uh oh...here we go! :)

[Gasoil4ever]

Originally Posted by Old Expat Beast

Honestly speaking, I'd rather go Grand Seiko than Cellini.

+1 any day !

[SearChart]

Originally Posted by Old Expat Beast

Honestly speaking, I'd rather go Grand Seiko than Cellini.

Yep, I'd take a 2013 Grand Seiko diashock reissue over a Cellini any time.

[GEORGE505]

Originally Posted by Old Expat Beast

Honestly speaking, I'd rather go Grand Seiko than Cellini.

X2

[GsurgBM]

Jlc moon.

[sutats]

Something interesting and different that stands out from the pack visually you say? Take a look at Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso range, the father of sports watches. The golden ratio case dimensions is striking.

[Mick P]

Chaps

Methinks that Rolex is a strange company. It makes brilliant SS sports watches that are iconic and will be remembered for time in memorial and then it comes up with some tasteless tat such as a Cellini, passing it off as a dress watch.

A dress watch is a slim simple gold watch with a minimalist approach. The Cellinis are dressed up tat that would look good on a pimp.

You do not buy a dress watch because you like it, you buy it to serve a purpose at a formal event where men dress low key. Think of it as a military uniform, you wear what is expected of you, not what takes your fancy.

If you like a Cellini, then fine, please feel free to buy it. But please, never ever try to pass it off as a dress watch, because it isn't.

Regards

Mick

[Star Ferry]

Originally Posted by Mick P

Chaps

Methinks that Rolex is a strange company. It makes brilliant SS sports watches that are iconic and will be remembered for time in memorial and then it comes up with some tasteless tat such as a Cellini, passing it off as a dress watch.

A dress watch is a slim simple gold watch with a minimalist approach. The Cellinis are dressed up tat that would look good on a pimp.

You do not buy a dress watch because you like it, you buy it to serve a purpose at a formal event where men dress low key. Think of it as a military uniform, you wear what is expected of you, not what takes your fancy.

If you like a Cellini, then fine, please feel free to buy it. But please, never ever try to pass it off as a dress watch, because it isn't.

Regards

Mick

My 14 year old Calatrava looks about the same as the current Cellini. There is nothing "pimped out" about the Cellini design.

[GradyPhilpott]

Originally Posted by Star Ferry

There is nothing "pimped out" about the Cellini design.

[J. Alan]

I have been looking at the latest Cellini line and am especially fond of the white dial Everose Dual time model. I currently own a 18K JLC Reverso I purchased in 1997, and the wife has GP 1966 she likes very much. However, there is something about the new dual time Cellini that speaks to me and I am seriously considering a purchase from my local dealer. I admit I am a Rolex fan having purchased my first one in 1989 and many other models since which I still own. They are all very reliable (have never had a warranty claim), easy to find service, with acceptable depreciation. The new 5 year warranty is also a bonus.

I also have a soft spot for PP, but the models I really like are beyond what I am willing to spend on a watch. I would rather buy a nice car!!!

I also have a craving for a Seiko Hi-Beat - they are a beautifully made watch equal in quality with all the high end brands

According to my trusted dealer friend, a few years ago he attended a dinner with the second in command from Rolex Geneve, the president of Rolex Canada, and the top Canadian salesman present. During dinner conversation he was asked by Mr. Rolex Geneve to give his honest opinion concerning the present Rolex Cellini line. In order to protect himself against a blow, my dealer friend then extended his right hand for a friendly handshake and answered the inquiry with one word "SHIT". Ready to defend his remark with a list of reasons, Mr. Rolex Geneve agreed with him and commented that Rolex was presently working on a solution.

I hope my little story has not offended any current Prince or Danaos owners!!!

Cheers to all,

J. Alan

[Alford78]

Originally Posted by sutats

Something interesting and different that stands out from the pack visually you say? Take a look at Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso range, the father of sports watches. The golden ratio case dimensions is striking.

Kinda old but I'm big into home audio/video and never in my wildest dreams would I have thought I'd read that a watch had "Golden Ratio" dimensions. That is just too kool. Makes me want a reverso even more now! I'm gonna have to figure out which model uses it and straight up go with it regardless just because I'd know why it was special to my wrist besides just being a bad a$$ watch in general lol.

[johneh]

If I were looking for a dress watch and I had that budget, a Celini wouldn't even get a second look. ALS, PP, or Vacheron all the way.

[AK797]

For dress, Lange would be my go to.

[WS9D]

How often would he be wearing it? If he's like me, and rarely would, it'd be a bit of a waste. If it will see little wear, I also recommend a Nomas and use the left over money to buy a nice sports model. It's really hard to say not knowing what else is in his collection.

If he will be wearing it often, my vote is for a JLC or ALS.

[AzHadEnuf]

I agree, if he wears a dress watch often, get the Lange. If it's a seldom occasion, go Nomos or a Glashutte Original Senator and put the rest of the funds towards a piece that will get used.