Assistance identifying my vintage sub

[jioannou]

Hi all

Long time lurker - recently made an account.

A close relative passed away and left me this watch in their will - I always mentioned that I loved vintage subs. I currently have a day-date, ceramic gmt and a few other toys.. but I’m not too familiar with old sub models.

Can someone help me identify this watch, and tell me about it? There is no box or papers so I don’t have the serial number.

I note the condition is pretty bad (you can see part of the lume has has fallen off from the second hand) and i will go and get it serviced by Rolex pretty soon (i am going to tell them not to polish or touch the dial).

Thank you all!

[Tools]

Probably early 1980's, 16800 1st generation.

If you are using the RSC, they will give you all the information you need. They may insist that you replace the hands since the lume is falling out.

I would find a restoration shop and have the missing lume replaced in the original hand and the rest stabilized.

[jioannou]

Thanks for the input. Are first gen 16800 pretty rare or desirable?

[Tools]

Originally Posted by jioannou

Thanks for the input. Are first gen 16800 pretty rare or desirable?

It would need to be verified, but the early matte dials are less common than the later surround dials. This one may have replacement/service parts, but some research and proper evaluation will sort it out.

Every Sub is desirable.

[Redmy]

Your watch is a transitional model reference #16800. Probably from 1980-1984. This model used 316L steel rather than 904L used in today’s watches. First sub that used a sapphire crystal. First sub that uses a quickset date feature. This watch is basically the bridge between vintage and modern models.

[Redmy]

I also forgot to mention last sub with a maxi dial without gold surrounds.

[jioannou]

Very nice! One to keep :)

[1665fan]

Looks like the hour and minute hand are service replacements...the second hand original and matched the dial but Lume fell out. That stinks

[alwayshere]

Originally Posted by 1665fan

Looks like the hour and minute hand are service replacements...the second hand original and matched the dial but Lume fell out. That stinks

can repair that as the lume piece is actually floating around in the watch.

[uncleluck]

Honestly you may as well get all 3 hands re-lumed in a colour to match the dial lume otherwise you’ll have 3 variances in lume glow with the seconds hand lume refitted. Keep the seconds hand lume if it makes you feel happier too.

Forget Rolex for this work, AFAIK the most they’d do is change all 3 hands to new white lume hands.

[L_S_SHOE]

It’s a 16800 with a matte dial. Take off the bracelet and it’ll be stamped between the lugs. I have have the same watch. I wanted to service only the movement so I brought it to the RSC in Dallas. Unfortunately, they would not agree to service it unless they were allowed to replace the hands, dial, and bracelet. Was going to be expensive and unnecessary. It would have also destroyed the vintage appeal of the watch. I sent it to Grand Central Watch in NYC with detailed instructions on what they could replace and what to leave alone. Got it back a few months ago and best I can tell they did a good job.

Also agree that your hour and minute hands have already been replaced. Do they glow? If so, it may not be a big deal to go ahead and replace the second hand, then all 3 will glow.


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[bayerische]

I think it looks great.

Remember these are easily "destroyed" by service. Rolex tends to want to replace all parts with even the slightest bit of damage.

If Rolex was to change the dial to a new WG surround dial (which came later to your watch) it would wipe a good bit of its worth away.

So as always with vintage, be careful.

[stevedssd]

The UK Rolex Service Centre has a good reputation for being sympathetic to keeping the original features of a vintage watch. However as the hands in this case need restoration or replacement, they would only replace with new luminova hands.

With this watch I'd look to take it to an independent Rolex approved watchmaker, two with a good reputation but which I have not used are Duncan at Genesis genesiswatchmaking.co.uk or Russell Talerman russelltalerman.com.

As pointed out, the lume from the second hand is sitting at the bottom of the dial, which could be an issue if it gets through the date aperture into the movement, so don't wind the watch or move it about before getting it in for repair. Good luck as it is lovely watch