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Old 10 February 2022, 11:10 AM   #1
Enzo954
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What's the next big brand?

In your opinion, what's the next watch brand that will start taking off? A brand that just isn't known to the masses or even the casual collector.
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Old 10 February 2022, 11:21 AM   #2
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Problem is it has to have scale to really “take off” vs just a small number of pieces going sky high

For casual collectors that means lots of watches available
One not really known that’s tough

Zenith ?
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Old 10 February 2022, 11:28 AM   #3
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Not that it’s not a well known brand, but I think GP is going to deservedly receive a lot more attention.
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Old 10 February 2022, 11:47 AM   #4
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None. The masses and run of the mill watch enthusiast sticks to established brand names for numerous reasons (value retention, prestige, lack of awareness of alternatives, etc). Sure, brands like Zenith, Vacheron and Lange can gain market share, but nobody is touching Patek and AP in the high end space. Nobody is touching Rolex and Omega in the mid tier.
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Old 10 February 2022, 11:53 AM   #5
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Moser and Czapek seem to have a lot of momentum right now.
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Old 10 February 2022, 12:50 PM   #6
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Moser, Czapek, MB&F...


Ones to look for...
Laine, JN Shapiro, Greubel Forsey, Greenfield, Moritz Grossmann... Whatever new piece Kari makes...
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Old 10 February 2022, 12:10 PM   #7
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As far as companies that the mainstream still doesn’t know just look to the best run Independents. Mainstream is focused on PP, AP, Rolex.

The companies that will thrive have a unique aesthetic and a star at the helm. To me that’s FPJ and MB&F.

As far as brands not known by causal collectors man that’s a lot harder

Micro

Remy cools. He’s a long way from the above names but I just like his stuff so far.

Peterman Bedat

Then larger

Urban Jurgensen now that KV is at the wheel.

Urwerk unless that’s too well known to qualify
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Old 10 February 2022, 01:53 PM   #8
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No one is touching: Patek and Rolex. Period.
Every brand can try but again...
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Old 17 February 2022, 07:05 PM   #9
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Quote:
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No one is touching: Patek and Rolex. Period.
Every brand can try but again...


x2

There is a limited number of people willing to spend tens of thousands on smaller makes like Czapek, Parmigiani, Moser, etc.

Not that there's anything wrong with that.
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Old 10 February 2022, 02:00 PM   #10
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Vacheron seems to have some momentum right now.
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Old 10 February 2022, 02:00 PM   #11
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rolex PP and AP are still far ahead in terms of brand equity and their offerings

high end independents like mb&f and fpj are too out of reach for most folks

thinking lange and moser are moving along in the right direction (but these are mostly dress watches, while most folks are still into sports models)
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Old 10 February 2022, 02:09 PM   #12
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Known - Vacheron - particularly VCOs are starting to get a bit out of control, especially any blue dials.

Lesser known - Ming

Micro - Kurono Tokyo or Anordain
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Old 10 February 2022, 02:45 PM   #13
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Curious why no one talks about Ressence
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Old 10 February 2022, 03:10 PM   #14
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Gronfield

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Old 10 February 2022, 03:32 PM   #15
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Don't fuel the independent's hype please
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Old 10 February 2022, 04:46 PM   #16
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Moser and GS.
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Old 10 February 2022, 04:53 PM   #17
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Bulgari
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Old 10 February 2022, 05:59 PM   #18
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Bulgari
I actually might agree with you on that one.

Someone said Zenith earlier. But while vintage Zeniths are an absolute treasure, modern Zenith is too busy following others to be the next market leader (... and before the Zenith lovers out there protest, "what about Zenith innovating the 1/100th of a second... or the silicone oscillator replacing the spring balance!?..." that's more solving engineering "problems" that nobody else perceives to be all that important, than being a market leader...)

The Octo Finissimo is an interesting piece because its entirely distinct in design with real watchmaking chops to back it.

If only their marketing department were as innovative as their design department. I would love to see them get a couple of brand ambassadors to represent through a grassroots social media campaign... no ads, no commercials, no promos.... just straight product placement. It would be interesting to see what would happen.
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Old 10 February 2022, 07:11 PM   #19
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I actually might agree with you on that one.

Someone said Zenith earlier. But while vintage Zeniths are an absolute treasure, modern Zenith is too busy following others to be the next market leader (... and before the Zenith lovers out there protest, "what about Zenith innovating the 1/100th of a second... or the silicone oscillator replacing the spring balance!?..." that's more solving engineering "problems" that nobody else perceives to be all that important, than being a market leader...)

The Octo Finissimo is an interesting piece because its entirely distinct in design with real watchmaking chops to back it.

If only their marketing department were as innovative as their design department. I would love to see them get a couple of brand ambassadors to represent through a grassroots social media campaign... no ads, no commercials, no promos.... just straight product placement. It would be interesting to see what would happen.
Good point, what pushed me over the edge to getting my Piaget polo 45 was seeing the watch in the film Focus. Although prior to the film I already was considering it but seeing it worn with different outfits/settings
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Old 11 February 2022, 01:38 AM   #20
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Bulgari
Great choice! I feel Bvlgari has already 'arrived'. Sure the closed-minded 'old school' guys might not agree, yet we deep thinkers / younger generation know Bvgari and their incredible achievements... while old folks adhere to what they 'know' because it simply 'is' in their olde world / vintage 'fairy tales' and all that.

For true mechanical timepiece enthusiasts, Bvlgari should already be within their collection by this point IMHO.

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Old 10 February 2022, 05:14 PM   #21
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theo auffret and remy cools can potentially be the new FPJ in the long run.
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Old 10 February 2022, 07:13 PM   #22
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I think if Vacheron releases a ultra thin steel Overseas in 41 or 40mm, with exchangeable straps and 8 year warranty at an attractive price point - Lets call it a VCO Jumbo. Then they are going to give AP a run for their money.

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Old 10 February 2022, 08:17 PM   #23
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I think if Vacheron releases a ultra thin steel Overseas in 41 or 40mm, with exchangeable straps and 8 year warranty at an attractive price point - Lets call it a VCO Jumbo. Then they are going to give AP a run for their money.

Don’t think so. They will poach those waiting for a Jumbo though, but AP is on a different strata in terms of demand. AP and Patek demand has lifted VC. Pure watchmaking, VC is excellent. Solely speaking to demand.
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Old 10 February 2022, 08:59 PM   #24
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Don’t think so. They will poach those waiting for a Jumbo though, but AP is on a different strata in terms of demand. AP and Patek demand has lifted VC. Pure watchmaking, VC is excellent. Solely speaking to demand.
True... for now.
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Old 10 February 2022, 09:21 PM   #25
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Don’t think so. They will poach those waiting for a Jumbo though, but AP is on a different strata in terms of demand. AP and Patek demand has lifted VC. Pure watchmaking, VC is excellent. Solely speaking to demand.
Obviously thats true today and even true tomorrow if the VCO Jumbo would be released. What Im saying is if that watch was released over time, say in 3/4 years the public would become aware of VCO in a way similar to AP, probably still not AP level, since VC produces less watches, but still pretty darn close.
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Old 10 February 2022, 10:13 PM   #26
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Obviously thats true today and even true tomorrow if the VCO Jumbo would be released. What Im saying is if that watch was released over time, say in 3/4 years the public would become aware of VCO in a way similar to AP, probably still not AP level, since VC produces less watches, but still pretty darn close.
I think there'll still be some distance between the 2 brands - for the Overseas I feel it's an understated and versatile elegance in a sports watch whereas when you wear a Royal Oak the bracelet shines & glitters almost like diamonds even in low light, it really grabs the attention. Even when I'm at a watch event with people wearing Nautilus, gold Subs Pateks the RO can hold its own with all of them
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Old 12 February 2022, 03:26 AM   #27
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Don’t think so. They will poach those waiting for a Jumbo though, but AP is on a different strata in terms of demand. AP and Patek demand has lifted VC. Pure watchmaking, VC is excellent. Solely speaking to demand.
a bird in hand is worth two in the bush. Willing to bet a percentage of those poached, make another VC purchase rather than an AP. You build brand loyalty one purchase at a time.
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Old 17 February 2022, 07:03 PM   #28
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Don’t think so. They will poach those waiting for a Jumbo though, but AP is on a different strata in terms of demand. AP and Patek demand has lifted VC. Pure watchmaking, VC is excellent. Solely speaking to demand.

Not sure about that....AP struggles in China while VC has a solid footing.




https://watchesbysjx.com/2022/02/mos...nds-china.html
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Old 18 February 2022, 03:48 AM   #29
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Not sure about that....AP struggles in China while VC has a solid footing.




https://watchesbysjx.com/2022/02/mos...nds-china.html
It seems that that’s a low sample size and the list is volatile. Look at the year over year movements. Vacheron is slotted in 2021 where AP was last year. Not disagreeing with you, but seems reasonable to say that, globally, beyond just China, AP is more popular than VC.
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Old 10 February 2022, 08:24 PM   #30
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