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20 October 2010, 12:25 AM | #1 |
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Pulled crown and stem out (1680)
So, I was adjusting the time, pulled the crown out to hack it, and what do you know, the stem came with it (think this is the right term, the needle like shaft with a square faced end on it attached to the crown) and now when I push that back in, the watch will only move the hands when I turn the crown no matter what position.
Have I done something wrong? I didn't pull excessively hard or anything, though I had just given it a full wind earlier. Is this likely to be a difficult or expensive repair? |
20 October 2010, 12:27 AM | #2 |
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...time for service. Sorry to hear this.
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20 October 2010, 12:29 AM | #3 |
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It's definitely a job for a professional.
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20 October 2010, 12:29 AM | #4 |
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Time for the doctors..... RSC... They will quote before fixing..
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20 October 2010, 12:32 AM | #5 |
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RSC in AU I've been told aren't the best to handle old subs, going to try a local that specializes in vintage Omega and Rolex. Was only running 2 seconds slow, why did I bother =\
Only had it for 6 hours now too. =( |
20 October 2010, 12:45 AM | #6 |
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Providing the stem hasn't broken, the stem retaining screw (the small one inboard from the crown) has come loose.
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28 August 2012, 08:58 PM | #7 | |
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Quote:
I've had approx 4 red subs amoung others serviced there with no probs whatsoever. They have done a lot of late to embrace their vintage owners.
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29 August 2012, 01:50 AM | #8 |
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20 October 2010, 12:44 AM | #9 |
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Does the end look like it broke off? You could be lucky and the locking screw just came lose.
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20 October 2010, 12:46 AM | #10 |
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the end of the stem looks undamaged, it did very much just feel like it floated loose, it wasn't so much pulled out, as it just fell out once at the hack position. I can still push it back in and move the hands, but for now I've inserted it and screwed it down to secure it.
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20 October 2010, 02:54 AM | #11 |
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As Al showed, this is a quite common occurrence.. The small holding screw is only 1/4 turn to hold it in, or release it..
sometimes they come loose.... Newer movements have a spring loaded button that holds the stem in and so they don't come out nearly so often.. It shouldn't take a watchmaker more than a couple of minutes to realign everything and tighten it back up...
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20 October 2010, 03:06 AM | #12 |
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If I had a proper servicing done at the same time by an indy watchmaker, what sort of cost would I expect on one of these assuming no serious part replacement? I'll be taking it in tomorrow, just be good to have a ballpark price range so that I know I'm not being taken for a ride.
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20 October 2010, 07:53 AM | #13 | |
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20 October 2010, 10:15 AM | #14 |
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That happened to me on a DJ from 1980. It was in need of service and the final cost at AD with certified Rolex tech including tax was about 675. Not that much more than service alone.
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20 October 2010, 01:35 PM | #15 |
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I took it in to Brisbane Vintage Watches, they had an identical 1680 but with unfaded bezel in the display case that looked perfect so that's a good sign.
They noticed it had a little corrosion on the end of the stem, and possibly some deeper, but on the surface it appeared that the movement was in good condition just with some residue of the dried lubricant floating, so the corrosion was likely a result of the crown being left out in humidity. They're doing a full overhaul, new crystal, repair and service of the movement, but when I went to tell them I wanted everything aesthetically original, they were already intending that, and were planning on tracking a colour matched tritium pearl to match the dial and hands to go in the existing faded insert, with an ultrasonic clean only of the case during assembly and no polishing. Price quoted was $500-$600 Australian dollars which seamed pretty good, and I'm confident that these guys are the type keen to restore rather than renovate. They were kind enough to pop it open and give me a brief rundown on my Cal. 1570 which was rather interesting, I honestly expected it to be full of grime and dust and black sludge as I've seen in some other older watches, but this looked shiny and very nicely decorated for a "workhorse" movement. Anyway, I'll probably have a new 93150 bracelet for it by the time its done, thanks for the advice |
20 October 2010, 01:58 PM | #16 |
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It's happened to me. My horologist tightened up the stem retaining screw, for free.
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21 October 2010, 05:38 PM | #17 |
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Hi
I would like to know what happens beneath that small screw. (Manual wind 1960) I did put the stem back and turned the small screw to the right and it works but how do I know that I did it right ? Sincerely |
22 October 2010, 10:18 AM | #18 |
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So... I just got a call back from the watchmaker, its actually going to be $1,700 due to more rust inside, worn out reversing gears (not sure what they are) and several other parts with corrosion. Bit more than I was expecting...
Apparently the bulk of the cost is in sourcing the parts, which is going to be almost a grand for some of the gears alone. Does this still sound right? |
22 October 2010, 01:46 PM | #19 |
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They're the red teflon coated gears which transform the bi-directional movement of the rotor into unidirectional movement to wind the mainspring. They eventually wear out, just like any mechanical component.
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Member #1,315 I don't want to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol IS a solution! |
22 October 2010, 01:58 PM | #20 |
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Ahk, yea he said the reversing gears were a major cost in the repair. It was making a pretty unpleasant sound when the rotor was moving, sort of sounded like a plastic zipper being done up quickly, and it didn't seam to have much freedom of movement, my Omega's 7750 you can flick around and hold level with the ground and feel the rotor wobble while spinning for a good 20-30 seconds, this didn't feel like it was swinging freely at all.
Kinda surprised because everyone says the 1570 lasts forever without maintenance and is strong beyond measure, and while its 31 years old, there are some on here that are much older than that. Thanks for the picture, its nice to learn these things. |
22 October 2010, 02:14 PM | #21 |
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You're welcome, we all learn every day here.
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Member #1,315 I don't want to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol IS a solution! |
23 October 2010, 04:37 AM | #22 |
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You might have been hearing the rotor contacting the upper plate due to a worn rotor axle. For reasons known only to themselves Rolex doesn`t use a ball bearing pivot (Zenith Daytona did). The axle below is 7 years old and the upper groove isn`t supposed to be there. Guess where the removed metal ends up......
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Member #1,315 I don't want to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol IS a solution! |
9 November 2010, 01:46 AM | #23 |
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This is my watch 6605, and the stem was broken one month ago. The worse thing was half of the stem was remained in insde of the watch.
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25 November 2010, 12:56 PM | #24 |
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$1000 just for reversing wheel parts seems a little silly to me. You can buy a whole new (used) 1570 movement in good condition for $1000 or so.
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25 November 2010, 01:41 PM | #25 |
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A new axle 2 reversing wheels and a drive wheel for ratchet installed about 225 a grand is ludicrous. If this person has a Rolex parts account and they find out he's charging that kind of money say bye bye to that account. Rik
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25 November 2010, 03:27 PM | #26 |
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Might be a bit late at this stage to do much about it. I realize is high and I'm not pleased with it, but you have to live in Australia to appreciate how expensive everything is relative to the US. If Rolex Australia's pricing is that high, I wouldn't be surprised at all.
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19 August 2012, 12:15 AM | #27 | |
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19 August 2012, 01:45 AM | #28 |
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30 August 2012, 08:28 AM | #29 |
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your watchmaker is probably sourcing parts overseas, as no watchmaker in australia has a rolex parts account, they stopped that years ago. If you need movement parts Rolex australia will tell you to send it in to them, those are the rules here in australia. this may by why the extra cost.
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23 January 2018, 10:00 PM | #30 |
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Hi,
question to watchmakers , what do you consider the weakest part of the keyless works , if we would pull the crown with force it would bend the setting lever upward or the setting lever would jump out from its notch and let the stem out or rather the crown would strip dowb the end of the stem thread.Just wondering thanks.
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