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26 November 2010, 04:47 AM | #1 |
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sub model 5513
Hello Everyone and first of all Happy thanksgiving
Anyone who knows the real today price cote of a submariner (no date) model 5513 in a good condition.Same thing for a gmt model 1675 Thanks for your comments on this subject. |
26 November 2010, 05:04 AM | #2 |
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Welcome to the forum
You need to be more specific with your question. You can look at our For Sale forum and searche the model. There is a huge year of production to take into account. |
26 November 2010, 05:42 AM | #3 |
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Welcome.
Era and condition are everthing in valuation. Can you narrow it down. |
26 November 2010, 06:00 AM | #4 |
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price guide on vintage rolex
where is a good website to check update price guide on grading watches according to condition and model/year etc...
Thank you for your help |
26 November 2010, 05:44 AM | #5 |
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I was thinking of a late 60"s model 5513.Definitly with the white dot,not with the silver dot all around.The meter before will be great but I know it will be to expensif for me so I am looking to buy one with 660ft first
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29 November 2010, 11:31 PM | #6 |
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Condition and year is everything so it's impossible to give an accurate estimate, however a good condition 5513 "feet first" (that's usually from early '70s as until late 60's there was the "meters first") with its original bracelet can be found for about 3500-4000 Euros here in europe. About the same for a similar age/conditions 1675. You need not to be in a hurry to find a good deal.
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2 December 2010, 12:47 PM | #7 | |
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Quote:
I rather have meter first. Thanks for your advise |
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26 November 2010, 06:47 AM | #8 |
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It is impossible to guestimate value without exact pictures so we can see the dial. On these watches the dials vary and can change the value of the watch by more than double! For example--a matte dial vs. a gilt dial..Meters first or feet first dial etc. Go to Vintage Rolex Forum and select Dial archive. Also--In vintage watch--complete with documentation vs. no accessories will drastically change value--again up to a double.
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2 December 2010, 10:59 AM | #9 |
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Thank you so much for your response.Does that mean than a 5513 from the 60"s will automaticly be meter first?or is there a 5513 model from the 60"s with the feet first as well?Is there a big difference price between a 5513 meter first and a 5513 feet first?
I rather have meter first. Thanks for your advise |
2 December 2010, 11:32 AM | #10 |
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Also I would like to post some pictures of my gmt 1675 but i am not sure how to do.
The website i asking me to enter my url N: which i don't realy understand. I would like to download the images directly from my mac I-photo. Could someone help me on this please |
2 December 2010, 06:03 PM | #11 |
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meters first are more expensive. less produced.
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3 December 2010, 10:54 AM | #12 |
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How much more expensif? what is the average price for a good condition 5513 meter first and a 5513 feet first.
thank you for your time:) |
3 December 2010, 10:59 AM | #13 |
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I too have been hunting for he perfect 5512 or 5513. The pricing does vary quite a bit but the good news is that there are a lot of 5513's for sale out there. A lot! So have fun shopping around there are a lot of comparables at all price points.
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14 December 2010, 08:07 AM | #14 |
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bracelet band for sub 5513 late 60"s "original or not"
Hello every one and first of all happy holidays.
I am looking for to buy a sub 5513 late 60"s (meter first will be great!!) and i was wondering if someone could tell me which was the original band at the time (late 60's) for this model. Also how many different bands were made for this model 5513 and if you have pics to be able to identify them you will make my day Thank you for your comments and sorry for my poor English. |
14 December 2010, 08:17 AM | #15 |
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pito, if you read some of the threads relating to 5513's you will pick up a lot of information yourself.
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15 December 2010, 02:19 AM | #16 |
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Speaking from experience, I'd also scrub round the notion of 'must have' a metres first. I made the same mistake and probably passed on some feet first that were in fact in better and / or more original condition.
I ended up with a '67 metres first which I love, but I realised pretty quickly that I would have loved it just as much if I'd been a little more open minded and included the feet first models in my search. Anyway, until you get to the maxi dials some 10 years or so later, you really can't tell them apart at a quick glance, so if I were you I'd take your time, and consider pretty much any matt dial from about 66/67 through to the last maxi's in the early 80's - and just buy on originality / provenance / condition, in that order. |
15 December 2010, 02:34 AM | #17 | |
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Quote:
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16 December 2010, 07:56 AM | #18 |
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[ok great thanks a lot for the advise,I will definitly consider it
Merry christmass |
19 December 2010, 09:40 AM | #19 |
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They are addictive. I just got a nice vintage 1970 one (my avatar). It has original box, receipt, etc.
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