To enter vintage Rolex world???

[mfer]

This world seems incredible difficult to enter. So many variations, what is acceptable, what isn't. Authentic bezels, tritium preservation techniques, etc.

Where should I start researching/educating myself? I have the Rolex Ref book, but that doesn't give much detail. I see random pics all the time, but was it original, etc?

I want to focus on a 5512/5513 superdome, matte dial, patina is great, but dial condition is more important. And I want a watch that I could wear daily if I so wanted.

Something like this one nbTimes has for sale. (this isn't a shill, just good pics, plus I don't know the guy and wouldn't risk importing a Rolex into the US). Mod's please delete if inappropriate.

Linky to pics of what I'm thinking of <<< clicky

Also, I've never really handled any vintage Rolex before, so I don't even know what to question. For example, I was at this watch show and a guy showed me a 5513. The bezel moved freely, both ways without any clicking. I questioned this and they guy said this is how all vintage bezels are. They are all friction based without any clicking. I just handed it back to him feeling like a little kid that didn't know what he had. This is how basic of info I need for example.

Anyone point me where to start?

Thanks!

[shairan]

i was in the same place a few months back. Reading through this forum helps a lot. The more I read, the more I became interested. And weirdly find the 'pointless' discussion of the length of 'F' completely fascinating. I am glad that I did not purchase anything until after 3 months after starting to learn. If you look up to the sticky, you'll see a list of trusted sellers. Good luck, if the interest truly develops on you.

[Jagatai]

One advice buy the seller.

[mike]

Mik,

Nothing wrong with your post. NB times is a well established seller among the fora. Our own reference section has a ton of information to get started as does VRF and others.

The 5513 is a great place to start a trip through the vintage world. As with anything condition is always king. There have been many changes to the reference over the years.

As a general place to start;

Dial markings usually fit into the following,

METERS FIRST--with Submariner UNDER--1962 (beginning of the reference) till circa 1968 (including gilt dial variations)

FEET FIRST --with Submariner UNDER circa 69-77

FEET FIRST--with Submariner OVER circa 78-89 including the change over to a gloss dial with white gold surrounds (bout 83-84ish)

MAXI-dials are a part of 5513 history and an area of study unto itself. Noteworthy are MAXI's outside the usuall serial number range as it seems Rolex used these as replacement dials back in the day.

Hannes site;

http://www.oysterworld.de/

has a great amount of info as well and serves as a pretty godd serial number dating range with the usual concerns about dating via the number only.

The insert on the 5513 does indeed move bi-directionally as it used a "friction lock" spring. Uni-directional 120 click ratching made it's debut on the reference 16800 Submariner date.

Good luck with the hunt and the study.

[mfer]

Originally Posted by shairan

i was in the same place a few months back. Reading through this forum helps a lot. The more I read, the more I became interested. And weirdly find the 'pointless' discussion of the length of 'F' completely fascinating. I am glad that I did not purchase anything until after 3 months after starting to learn. If you look up to the sticky, you'll see a list of trusted sellers. Good luck, if the interest truly develops on you.

Appreciated.

Originally Posted by Jagatai

One advice buy the seller.

clearly understood, even before this post.

Originally Posted by mike

Mik,

Nothing wrong with your post. NB times is a well established seller among the fora. Our own reference section has a ton of information to get started as does VRF and others.

The 5513 is a great place to start a trip through the vintage world. As with anything condition is always king. There have been many changes to the reference over the years.

As a general place to start;

Dial markings usually fit into the following,

METERS FIRST--with Submariner UNDER--1962 (beginning of the reference) till circa 1968 (including gilt dial variations)

FEET FIRST --with Submariner UNDER circa 69-77

FEET FIRST--with Submariner OVER circa 78-89 including the change over to a gloss dial with white gold surrounds (bout 83-84ish)

MAXI-dials are a part of 5513 history and an area of study unto itself. Noteworthy are MAXI's outside the usuall serial number range as it seems Rolex used these as replacement dials back in the day.

Hannes site;

http://www.oysterworld.de/

has a great amount of info as well and serves as a pretty godd serial number dating range with the usual concerns about dating via the number only.

The insert on the 5513 does indeed move bi-directionally as it used a "friction lock" spring. Uni-directional 120 click ratching made it's debut on the reference 16800 Submariner date.

Good luck with the hunt and the study.

Highly appreciated. Thanks Mike. This already helps me. So I can add to the list "FEET FIRST --with Submariner UNDER" to the list.

Originally Posted by unmentioned pm'er

pm

appreciate the PM's

[Frosty]

Originally Posted by mike

Hannes site;

http://www.oysterworld.de/

has a great amount of info as well and serves as a pretty godd serial number dating range with the usual concerns about dating via the number only.

The insert on the 5513 does indeed move bi-directionally as it used a "friction lock" spring. Uni-directional 120 click ratching made it's debut on the reference 16800 Submariner date.

Good luck with the hunt and the study.

Great site, thanks

[cruvon]

Welcome, there's plenty of interesting information in historic threads that I would suggest you go through and feel free to ask anything you might need to know, the forumers here are the friendliest lot ever:), always willing to selflessly help!.
Also the most important advice, when you find something you like, ask for opinions/advice BEFORE you buy and you should be fine!

[aussiewatchnut]

I'm also looking around for a similar watch so all this info is great. Thanks guys.

[Rick-O]

Why on earth would you want an old beat up Rolex?? I think the 5513 is an excellent place to start! I would hold out for a pristine example, as this particular reference is (relatively) common. Meters first will have a higher tag, but my advice is try to find a gloss/gilt version.....pure sex on the wrist my friend

[mfer]

Originally Posted by Rick-O

Why on earth would you want an old beat up Rolex?? I think the 5513 is an excellent place to start! I would hold out for a pristine example, as this particular reference is (relatively) common. Meters first will have a higher tag, but my advice is try to find a gloss/gilt version.....pure sex on the wrist my friend

Oh crap, I'm in trouble now!!!!

[matt4hand]

This will help, not for 5513's but is great information for learning.
http://doubleredseadweller.com/

[red1108nyc]

Originally Posted by mfer

This world seems incredible difficult to enter. So many variations, what is acceptable, what isn't. Authentic bezels, tritium preservation techniques, etc.

Where should I start researching/educating myself? I have the Rolex Ref book, but that doesn't give much detail. I see random pics all the time, but was it original, etc?

I want to focus on a 5512/5513 superdome, matte dial, patina is great, but dial condition is more important. And I want a watch that I could wear daily if I so wanted.

Something like this one nbTimes has for sale. (this isn't a shill, just good pics, plus I don't know the guy and wouldn't risk importing a Rolex into the US). Mod's please delete if inappropriate.

Linky to pics of what I'm thinking of <<< clicky

Also, I've never really handled any vintage Rolex before, so I don't even know what to question. For example, I was at this watch show and a guy showed me a 5513. The bezel moved freely, both ways without any clicking. I questioned this and they guy said this is how all vintage bezels are. They are all friction based without any clicking. I just handed it back to him feeling like a little kid that didn't know what he had. This is how basic of info I need for example.

Anyone point me where to start?

Thanks!

Mik!! Great to see you here buddy! The folks here are great... genuine and truly enthusiastic about vintage pieces.. if you have any questions, the good folks here will jump in. If you need anything, please feel free to email me ok?!

Welcome again!

Best,

Fred

[mfer]

Originally Posted by red1108nyc

Mik!! Great to see you here buddy! The folks here are great... genuine and truly enthusiastic about vintage pieces.. if you have any questions, the good folks here will jump in. If you need anything, please feel free to email me ok?!

Welcome again!

Best,

Fred

Will do for sure Fred. Thanks!

[phillycheez]

Unpolished or polished?

Personally I don't think it matters when any seller says its unpolished... Pictures will tell you everything. A great "example"case has sharper edges and fat lugs. A case that has been well polished will have rounded edges, thinner lugs and the bezel teeth are less defined.

Imo... I really don't care as long as it looks good (to me). When I buy a Rolex I want it to be in great condition so whenever I scratch or ding it I know that that was me... Like starting your own history with the watch.

I would rather stay away from a very very well polished case though... The case is expensive to replace. I would also stay away from cases with uneven lug widths.

[mfer]

Originally Posted by phillycheez

Unpolished or polished?

Personally I don't think it matters when any seller says its unpolished... Pictures will tell you everything. A great "example"case has sharper edges and fat lugs. A case that has been well polished will have rounded edges, thinner lugs and the bezel teeth are less defined.

Imo... I really don't care as long as it looks good (to me). When I buy a Rolex I want it to be in great condition so whenever I scratch or ding it I know that that was me... Like starting your own history with the watch.

I would rather stay away from a very very well polished case though... The case is expensive to replace. I would also stay away from cases with uneven lug widths.

I hear you, for me scratches are cool, gashes not as much. I don't ever polish my watches.

[bluemartinifan]

Hi Mik - I was in your spot last year. I owned a 14060 but wanted a 5513. Too many ways to make a poor decision on my 1st vintage - so I decided to work with Andrew Shear - one of the top vintage sellers on the planet. I knew if Andrew offered me a watch - after knowing my price range and objectives - the watch was going to be authentic and correct. I ended up with a good one

[dddrees]

Mik

Take your time and look around I'm sure after awhile you'll have a better idea as to what you are looking for.

I would recommend taking a look here as well:

http://www.vintagerolexforum.com/

Buying the seller is even that much more important when buying a vintage watch.

Just remember you can always post pictures of the watch and request references of the seller here before you buy the watch.

Good luck with your hunt.

[Dan Pierce]

Exploring vintage history and deciphering thru all the different references is half the fun.
Best of luck in your vintage search. It will be well worth it!
dP

[TheChimp]

Can someone post pics of an overpolished watch vs a lightly or unpolished watch?
Thanks!
Ken

[joe100]

Pick the watch you're hot on and become an expert. There is enough info between TRF and VRF to become a subject matter expert in no time at all!!

[Robbyvm]

Enjoy the chase, i know i did....
If you go 5513, go for a meters first
If you can afford, go for a gilt dial

Be sure to post pics here before you buy, the experts here will give you honest feedback (i'm not one...)

[mfer]

Thanks for all the support and help guys.

To be clear, I want a watch I'm not scared to wear. Gilt and meter's first will come later. Right now I just want a sexy plastic dome.

I'm sure I'll change my mind in a few weeks!

[Jollyclub]

Study the VRF dial archive.
Find out how the dials of each reference change over the years.
Buy a reference you like. Then collect every dial variation.
Then move onto the next reference and repeat..
Your collection will evolve according to how your OCD manifests itself. Some prefer varying shades of bezel fade chronologicaly ordered. Others a strictly catalogued alpha- numeric reference library.
Either way a 5513 is a great starting point and will open your eyes to the past being a richer place than the present..
Most importantly enjoy your search.