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Tools · 21 January 2008, 03:52 AM

GMT-Master II Reference Numbers: 116710 (SS), 116713(TT), 116718(Gold)

Date of production: 2005 to present

Case Size: 40mm

Movement: 3186
(excerpt from Henk Hoving)
The cal.3186 has exactly the same features as seen on the previous cal.3185, so there is no quickset date feature added as some guessed. The main difference between these calibers is the more precise setting of the 12 positions for the 12-hourhand when switching to another timezone.

The 12 hourhand clicks into the 12 positions without any play, and very precise and smooth, as the fixed positions where the hand clicks into, were moved from the center of the movement into the driving train of the hands, this eliminates the play that the older caliber has.

This resulted into a slightly higher caliber, from 6.4mm to 6.8mm, which resulted into a slightly higher case for the new GMT Master II when compared to the older GMT Master II.

Also, in this new GMT Master is the new, own hairspring fitted, the "Parachrom Bleu". This new Rolex-patented hairspring is very easy to recognise as the spring has a very dark blue shiny color. It consists of an alloy made of Niob (most part), Hafnium and a very small ammount other metals not described. This blue color is created because the Niob oxidizes in contact with air and formes a protective layer this way.

In comparison to the regular hairsprings, this new one consists of only non-Ferro materials, and is as such completely unsensitive to magnetic fields. Another major advantage is that this new spring is much less sensitive to temperature-variations, the frequency does not vary due to differences in temperature, which results into one of the most accurate mechanical watches you can buy today...

Power Reserve:
Expected to be 48-50 hrs.

Photographs:
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Name: ModernGMTIIc.jpg
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Size: 73.4 KB

(Photos courtesy of Mike)

Links:

Rolex Site - GMT-Master II

Some Data on the all gold models which is identical to the SS models in function and fit.:

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Latrodectus · 3 January 2009, 03:08 PM

Thank you Larry, I just love that watch

nauticalmariner · 4 January 2009, 09:20 AM

Quick question, on the shot where the clasp of the bracelet is open, my GMT says EO6 instead of EO2 and no numbers under it like yours..any need to worry?
ES

CBG · 4 January 2009, 10:14 AM

Mine says PJ1, and no number underneath either.

hjhansolo · 4 January 2009, 11:28 PM

Mine says E010

nbs · 5 January 2009, 01:35 PM

Mine says E09

Big Tobacco · 13 January 2009, 05:12 AM

I have EO5 with 15/423 underneath it. I'd think it has naught to do with the watch, but the bracelet, as I believe these bracelets can be fitted on more than 1 model of the newer Rolex line.

jadento · 8 April 2009, 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big Tobacco

I have EO5 with 15/423 underneath it. I'd think it has naught to do with the watch, but the bracelet, as I believe these bracelets can be fitted on more than 1 model of the newer Rolex line.

Since were talking about the new Bracelet which, I LOVE! Does, anyone know if it will fit my 16710?
John

hflee55 · 14 January 2009, 01:37 PM

Excellent write up as always.

stusrt · 3 April 2009, 07:12 AM

i asked this elsewhere - but has there been any improvements to the GMT-IIC since it was released?
I was wondering for the 116713 if there is any difference in buying a Z, M, or waiting for a V from the AD?

thanks!

handdoc · 5 April 2009, 09:47 PM

those letters on the bracelet indicate when the bracelet was made...there is a chart on line if you google that info

Alex49 · 5 May 2009, 06:50 PM

Hi there

Can somone indicate how to adjust the length of the bracelet? I can't see this on the photograph. Can the lengt only be adjusted (besides the new 5mm special easy-link) by inserting or removing a whole link of the bracelet? This would be a rather rough method as this would result in big jumps of 10mm and which is too much at a time. Through this the bracelet would be either too long or too short. With the 16710 you could nicely adjust the braceletat at its clasp. The distances of the wholes were even different so that you could either remove a link or as an alternative make the bracelet by 2 wholes shorter (or longer). And the 2 methods resulted in a slight difference as 2 wholes were not the equivalent of 10mm but 9mm then 8mm and finally 6,5mm depending which combination of links vs. wholes you took. This made a very fine adjustment possible.

Back to the question: Can somone show a picture that shows that part of the bracelet resp. its closure?

Cheers Alex

NDT III · 7 May 2009, 01:14 PM

I don't have a photo but looking at the bracelet, all links appear to be the same size (10mm?) making it adjustable in 5mm increments using the aptly named and much appreciated "easy-link".

Mathemagician · 7 May 2009, 02:22 PM

The clasp does have three holes (dimples, really) for finer adjustment, in addition to the fantastically convenient easylink.

MikeJaye · 8 May 2009, 03:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mathemagician

The clasp does have three holes (dimples, really) for finer adjustment, in addition to the fantastically convenient easylink.

How easy is this to adjust if you don't have a spring bar tool?

Mike

Tools · 8 May 2009, 06:14 AM

It's pretty easy with an eyglass screwdriver or something similar.

The springbar is compressed using the slot cut in the back of the spring-bar tube

This shot shows the three adjusting holes in the clasp
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Name: IMG_1369.jpg
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Size: 55.6 KB

This shot shows the clasp flipped over to expose the slots for compressing the spring-bar
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BrianT · 23 September 2009, 01:43 AM

Good info

MikeJaye · 8 May 2009, 06:39 AM

Cheers...managed to sort it out with a sharp knife!!

browngo1 · 8 May 2009, 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeJaye

Cheers...managed to sort it out with a sharp knife!!

Alex49 · 10 May 2009, 05:25 AM

Thank you Tools

In the mean time I must admit that I decided to buy me the 116710. I must say that it is outstanding. The way how you can adjust the bracelet is much better than before with the 16710. The fact that you can reduce the bracelet at the 6 side to 4 remaining links is absolutely great too as you can now adjust the lenght in a way that the calsp is fully in the middle of your wrist, which was not the cas ebefore . . . And due to the fact that the backside of the watch is flatter with the 116710 th watch is much better on your arm than before.

I am most pleased.

Cheers Alex

He Man · 14 May 2009, 06:02 PM

excellent watch but I bit thicker than what I am used to.

Charley_Lima · 21 May 2009, 12:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by exxondus

is it stated anywhere that the GMTiiC has the triplock as per the Subs?

I haven been able to find any info on that. It was also not mentioned in Rolex's 2009 catalogue that the crown has triplock :(

In the catalogue, they only mentioned the triplock for subs and the SDDS

According to the Rolex Web Site - the 116710 has Triplock and is water resistant to 100m.

sexner · 30 June 2009, 05:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yannis7777

I think water-resistance is 100 metres not 200 Steve.

Correct.

DRAWTOOL · 11 July 2009, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shedlock2000

... I think it should share the Subs water resistance, due to sharing the triplock crown and a similar case...

Yeah, Why does it not?

Tools · 11 July 2009, 01:11 PM

The Trip-lock crown is not the only reason that the Sub can go to extreme depths... It also has a thicker case-back that will not compress and press against the movement under the extreme pressure at depth.

The other watches with a Triplock Crown:

Daytona
Sub
GMT IIc
Sea Dweller
Deep Sea
Yachtmaster
Yachtmaster II

DCgator · 6 August 2010, 07:09 AM

Excellent choice in the GMT IIc. This model looks very clean and attractive because of its simplicity.

bokmeipai · 3 August 2009, 01:13 AM

good info on a nice watch IMO the best of Rolex line.
[

cousie · 20 August 2009, 12:37 AM

my first Rolex, this one started it all :)

Slopes · 6 August 2010, 06:50 AM

Yyyeeessssss!!!! Just bought my first Rolex last week. GMT Master II 2010.
Loving it.
I may take it off my wrist one day....

Joe750 · 29 January 2010, 02:46 PM

Dumb question, but info I haven't been able to find - is the calendar on a GMT IIc perpatual (meaning it knows days with 30, 31, or 28 days? Always wondered. Rolex website doesn't say...

21 January 2008, 03:52 AM	#1
Tools TRF Moderator & 2024 SubLV41 Patron Join Date: May 2007 Real Name: Larry Location: Mojave Desert Watch: GMT's Posts: 43,514	The Rolex GMT-Master II (ceramic model) GMT-Master II Reference Numbers: 116710 (SS), 116713(TT), 116718(Gold) Date of production: 2005 to present Case Size: 40mm Movement: 3186 (excerpt from Henk Hoving) The cal.3186 has exactly the same features as seen on the previous cal.3185, so there is no quickset date feature added as some guessed. The main difference between these calibers is the more precise setting of the 12 positions for the 12-hourhand when switching to another timezone. The 12 hourhand clicks into the 12 positions without any play, and very precise and smooth, as the fixed positions where the hand clicks into, were moved from the center of the movement into the driving train of the hands, this eliminates the play that the older caliber has. This resulted into a slightly higher caliber, from 6.4mm to 6.8mm, which resulted into a slightly higher case for the new GMT Master II when compared to the older GMT Master II. Also, in this new GMT Master is the new, own hairspring fitted, the "Parachrom Bleu". This new Rolex-patented hairspring is very easy to recognise as the spring has a very dark blue shiny color. It consists of an alloy made of Niob (most part), Hafnium and a very small ammount other metals not described. This blue color is created because the Niob oxidizes in contact with air and formes a protective layer this way. In comparison to the regular hairsprings, this new one consists of only non-Ferro materials, and is as such completely unsensitive to magnetic fields. Another major advantage is that this new spring is much less sensitive to temperature-variations, the frequency does not vary due to differences in temperature, which results into one of the most accurate mechanical watches you can buy today... Power Reserve: Expected to be 48-50 hrs. Photographs: (Photos courtesy of Mike) Links: Rolex Site - GMT-Master II Some Data on the all gold models which is identical to the SS models in function and fit.: __________________ (Chill ... It's just a watch Forum.....) NAWCC Member Last edited by Tools; 1 April 2010 at 12:47 PM..

3 January 2009, 03:08 PM	#2
Latrodectus 2024 SubLV41 Pledge Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Real Name: Fred Location: KY, USA Watch: GMT-Master II Posts: 10,043	Thank you Larry, I just love that watch __________________ Member # 16057 4-Hands Club Tosser Club Member TRF Skypers Group

8 May 2009, 06:14 AM	#16
Tools TRF Moderator & 2024 SubLV41 Patron Join Date: May 2007 Real Name: Larry Location: Mojave Desert Watch: GMT's Posts: 43,514	It's pretty easy with an eyglass screwdriver or something similar. The springbar is compressed using the slot cut in the back of the spring-bar tube This shot shows the three adjusting holes in the clasp This shot shows the clasp flipped over to expose the slots for compressing the spring-bar __________________ (Chill ... It's just a watch Forum.....) NAWCC Member

11 July 2009, 01:11 PM	#25
Tools TRF Moderator & 2024 SubLV41 Patron Join Date: May 2007 Real Name: Larry Location: Mojave Desert Watch: GMT's Posts: 43,514	The Trip-lock crown is not the only reason that the Sub can go to extreme depths... It also has a thicker case-back that will not compress and press against the movement under the extreme pressure at depth. The other watches with a Triplock Crown: Daytona Sub GMT IIc Sea Dweller Deep Sea Yachtmaster Yachtmaster II __________________ (Chill ... It's just a watch Forum.....) NAWCC Member Last edited by Tools; 2 March 2010 at 04:25 AM..

3 August 2009, 01:13 AM	#27
bokmeipai "TRF" Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: NYC Posts: 257	good info on a nice watch IMO the best of Rolex line. [ Last edited by Tools; 29 January 2010 at 03:49 PM..

4 January 2009, 09:20 AM	#3
nauticalmariner Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: South FL Watch: GMT II SS Posts: 27	Quick question, on the shot where the clasp of the bracelet is open, my GMT says EO6 instead of EO2 and no numbers under it like yours..any need to worry? ES

4 January 2009, 10:14 AM	#4
CBG "TRF" Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Real Name: Chris Location: Europe Watch: GMTIIc SS Posts: 59	Mine says PJ1, and no number underneath either.

4 January 2009, 11:28 PM	#5
hjhansolo "TRF" Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Beijing Watch: GMT MasterII 2TCer Posts: 14	Mine says E010

5 January 2009, 01:35 PM	#6
nbs Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Real Name: David Location: Singapore/Sydney Watch: SS GMT Master IIc Posts: 35	Mine says E09

13 January 2009, 05:12 AM	#7
Big Tobacco Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: North Carolina Posts: 5	I have EO5 with 15/423 underneath it. I'd think it has naught to do with the watch, but the bracelet, as I believe these bracelets can be fitted on more than 1 model of the newer Rolex line.

14 January 2009, 01:37 PM	#9
hflee55 "TRF" Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Real Name: Andy Location: Kuala Lumpur, MY Watch: Me Watching You!! Posts: 3,260	Excellent write up as always.

3 April 2009, 07:12 AM	#10
stusrt "TRF" Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: The Motor City Watch: too many Posts: 1,114	i asked this elsewhere - but has there been any improvements to the GMT-IIC since it was released? I was wondering for the 116713 if there is any difference in buying a Z, M, or waiting for a V from the AD? thanks!

5 April 2009, 09:47 PM	#11
handdoc "TRF" Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: New England Posts: 328	those letters on the bracelet indicate when the bracelet was made...there is a chart on line if you google that info

5 May 2009, 06:50 PM	#12
Alex49 "TRF" Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Switzerland Posts: 8	Hi there Can somone indicate how to adjust the length of the bracelet? I can't see this on the photograph. Can the lengt only be adjusted (besides the new 5mm special easy-link) by inserting or removing a whole link of the bracelet? This would be a rather rough method as this would result in big jumps of 10mm and which is too much at a time. Through this the bracelet would be either too long or too short. With the 16710 you could nicely adjust the braceletat at its clasp. The distances of the wholes were even different so that you could either remove a link or as an alternative make the bracelet by 2 wholes shorter (or longer). And the 2 methods resulted in a slight difference as 2 wholes were not the equivalent of 10mm but 9mm then 8mm and finally 6,5mm depending which combination of links vs. wholes you took. This made a very fine adjustment possible. Back to the question: Can somone show a picture that shows that part of the bracelet resp. its closure? Cheers Alex

7 May 2009, 01:14 PM	#13
NDT III "TRF" Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Real Name: David Location: Texas (mostly) Watch: GMT IIc Posts: 30	I don't have a photo but looking at the bracelet, all links appear to be the same size (10mm?) making it adjustable in 5mm increments using the aptly named and much appreciated "easy-link".

7 May 2009, 02:22 PM	#14
Mathemagician "TRF" Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Real Name: JJ Location: PA Watch: GMT IIc Posts: 83	The clasp does have three holes (dimples, really) for finer adjustment, in addition to the fantastically convenient easylink.

23 September 2009, 01:43 AM	#17
BrianT "TRF" Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Canada Posts: 115	Good info

8 May 2009, 06:39 AM	#18
MikeJaye Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: London Posts: 675	Cheers...managed to sort it out with a sharp knife!!

10 May 2009, 05:25 AM	#20
Alex49 "TRF" Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Switzerland Posts: 8	Thank you Tools In the mean time I must admit that I decided to buy me the 116710. I must say that it is outstanding. The way how you can adjust the bracelet is much better than before with the 16710. The fact that you can reduce the bracelet at the 6 side to 4 remaining links is absolutely great too as you can now adjust the lenght in a way that the calsp is fully in the middle of your wrist, which was not the cas ebefore . . . And due to the fact that the backside of the watch is flatter with the 116710 th watch is much better on your arm than before. I am most pleased. Cheers Alex

14 May 2009, 06:02 PM	#21
He Man "TRF" Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Canada Posts: 43	excellent watch but I bit thicker than what I am used to.

6 August 2010, 07:09 AM	#26
DCgator "TRF" Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: PNW Watch: DS,BLNR,SubLV,DJ2 Posts: 8,123	Excellent choice in the GMT IIc. This model looks very clean and attractive because of its simplicity.

20 August 2009, 12:37 AM	#28
cousie "TRF" Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Real Name: Frédéric Location: Belgium Watch: Rolex Skydweller Posts: 126	my first Rolex, this one started it all :)

6 August 2010, 06:50 AM	#29
Slopes "TRF" Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Real Name: Simon Location: London Watch: GMT Master II 2010 Posts: 7	Yyyeeessssss!!!! Just bought my first Rolex last week. GMT Master II 2010. Loving it. I may take it off my wrist one day....

29 January 2010, 02:46 PM	#30
Joe750 Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 53	Dumb question, but info I haven't been able to find - is the calendar on a GMT IIc perpatual (meaning it knows days with 30, 31, or 28 days? Always wondered. Rolex website doesn't say...

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