Acquiring and fine-tuning a birth year watch! (The product of five years of ideas.)

[ArcticMoose]

So, about four years ago, after a year of inspiration from TRF, I decided I wanted a BYW. I'm sure the forum had something to do with it, but the thought of having things the same age as myself has always appealed to me, and what could possibly be better than a watch? It is always with you and takes the same knocks and beatings that you do.

After looking through the models that would qualify for the specific year I was after the choice was easy, it had to be a 1675. The fact that the two-color bezel had been discontinued made it even more interesting. (Of course, at the time the 116710 BLNR had not yet been introduced, and there is still not a ceramic BLRO to be had.)

After deciding on a reference, and a lot of ideas from the forum, Jacek was extremely patient and helpful in finding a watch in decent condition at a price I could accept. My primary concern was a good case, here's the watch I ended up getting. (Jacek's photos.)








This was my first vintage Rolex. I wasn't too concerned about condition other than the case, since I had a pretty good idea about my stand as far as vintage is concerned. Hint: It rhymes pretty well with the stance Rolex has, so vintage purists may wish to turn back now.

Anyhow, I wore the watch every now and then, and concluded that I like the idea of vintage. However, I also concluded that it needs to look like it has been taken care of, and that I need to be confident that it can take the brutality of daily life. This means that I can't be worried about bits of cracked lume coming loose, and that corrosion on the hands and marks on the dial need to go.



So, off to Rolex AD Rob Engström in Stockholm it goes, where watchmaker Peter rips out all the defective parts, as dictated by the service routines issued by Rolex HQ.



The watch is returned to me in good-as-new condition, with service papers to match.



After a few seconds in front of the UV lamp ...



... it is evident that the watch, besides keeping perfect time, now has lume that is acceptable for daily use.



Of course, the watch still has a major defect, one that I wasn't willing to pay to remedy.

The bracelet is as everyone knows of sub-par quality, rattly and light.



Rolex has taken its good time getting an acceptable upgrade in place, decent bracelets were not available until the introduction of the six-number references.

However, putting a modern Oyster bracelet on a 1675, which is so much smaller and lighter than its descendants, does not feel right. Besides the weight imbalance, I don't think polished center links belong on a vintage GMT.

So, what to do?

After thirtyish e-mails with measurements, new measurements, discussions about color, thickness and everything in between, the only hurdle left was a bit of a tussle with TNT regarding commercial invoices and other documentation.

For whatever reason a small package from Indonesia flagged red, but after a few phone calls it was released to me.



What could possibly suit a newly renovated vintage watch better than a nice vintage style leather strap?



Peter Gunny delivered, pertfect fit, gorgeous handiwork and a discreetly engraved logo and serial number.



Does it work?

It works!



There a still a few bits missing though.

I turn to Bergströms, a Rolex AD in Gothenburg.

Doesn't look too flash.



Maybe I should give up this project and get a Yacht-Master instead?



I got what I came for. No bag, and no freebies though.



It is well-protected against theft. And break-ins.



Supposedly this is currently the best supplier of authentic Rolex buckles in the world, as far as price is concerned.



Perfect fit!



Just as I envisioned it.



There is still something missing though.

At first it seemed as though the sender had written the wrong address on my last package, the post office didn't want to accept my ID, which didn't match the name in their system.

Clearly displaying an aura of desperation, I ask the pimply teenager to find the package to ensure that they hadn't made a mistake, which he after a number of upset stares and admonitions from the people behind me in line finally does.

My name is clearly marked on the package and the attached documentation. The clerk finally hands MY package over with a look of defeat all over his face.



The package contains two bits of precision-machined 316L steel, marked 1675, signed Smartyjones18.



Mounted, ready for use!



The leather is still a bit stiff, but I don't think it will take very many days for it to feel like mine.



The obligatory wrist shot.



It has been a long time since I had a watch on my wrist that constantly distracted me, that I could twist and turn in the light for minutes, and that I have to look at two or three times before I register what time it is. No other watch is going to be getting any wrist time at all for the foreseeable future.

What's next? Now that the watch looks so good I am seeing the unevenness of the case, and how worn the bezel is. If it bothers me I might hand it over to ABC Watchwerks for some laser treatment.

Also, there may be one more big thing in store, stay tuned ...

[kieselguhr]

Great pics!! Congrats!

[GerardoG]

Beautiful! Thank you for sharing!

[JasoninDenver]

That is a 100% winner

I love what you did with the end links, strap and deployant.

[Micha]

sweet look

[incontrol]

Very nice work! I love the way it turned out. Congrats!

[brettpaul]

Great post and pics - congrats on the watch!

[eeh100773]

Excellent store and photos. I am also thinking seriously about a BYW - and from what I see above, 5 years is definitely worth the wait!

[themast]

The idea of a BYW is fascinating me and I was seriously thinking about a red/blue GMT.

Hence, I love your post! Great execution and great pictures!

[jatco]

Awesome. What a story..!! - Persistance prevails..Kudos...and Love it.!!

[Rashid.bk]

OMG!!! I'm so jealous.
You are my hero. This is exactly what I want to do with a BYW. I love vintage but have the concern of some of the overly worn bits. I do like patina etc but corrosion is a concern along with absent lume.
Your results are amazing and the strap was an excellent choice.
Was planning on a Sub but looking at this GMT....decisions...
Super Congrats and wish you both many healthy years together.

[Cc1966]

What a journey mate!

[DiamondJack]

Great thread John.......that's what you call dedication ......And a fantastic end result.......

Plus a great option on older models where the dial (which holds most of the value from a vintage perspective) has deteriorated. I'd definitely consider it.......Are you able to give us all an idea of the cost of refurbishment?........

[ArcticMoose]

Thanks for the kind comments and encouragement, everyone!

Originally Posted by DiamondJack

Are you able to give us all an idea of the cost of refurbishment?

If I recall correctly the watch was about $4000 a few years ago. The RSC service including replacement movement parts was about $850, service hands, dial and bezel insert was about $650 and strap, buckle and end links another $300.

The way I see it it is less than $6000 for a brand new watch built to my taste with a matte dial, plexi, no white gold index surrounds and a 1575 movement that is the same age as I am, and is still a fully authorized and correct vintage Rolex.

[DiamondJack]

Originally Posted by ArcticMoose

Thanks for the kind comments and encouragement, everyone!



If I recall correctly the watch was about $4000 a few years ago. The RSC service including replacement movement parts was about $850, service hands, dial and bezel insert was about $650 and strap, buckle and end links another $300.

The way I see it it is less than $6000 for a brand new watch built to my taste with a matte dial, plexi, no white gold index surrounds and a 1575 movement that is the same age as I am, and is still a fully authorized and correct vintage Rolex.

Sounds like a great deal....... and I would do exactly the same as you....

Most people seem to want to hang on to originality at all costs.... but if the watch model is fairly common model (and the 1675 was in production from 1959-1980) so a huge number produced, then if it is not in fantastic condition, then refurbishing it and bringing it back to it's full glory is a fantastic idea.

Also full functionality is resumed......

[ArcticMoose]

Originally Posted by DiamondJack

Most people seem to want to hang on to originality at all costs....

I still have the defect parts, so I can return the watch to the previous condition if I wish, but after using it for a few days I am pretty sure that that is never going to happen.

[Cru Jones]

Originally Posted by ArcticMoose

I still have the defect parts, so I can return the watch to the previous condition if I wish, but after using it for a few days I am pretty sure that that is never going to happen.

aaah, you still have the original parts? didn't realize that. well, then, in that case, there's no doubt, you did the right thing.

[R.J.]

I'm impressed. You put your high standards and taste into the watch and transformed it into one beautiful timepiece. The strap gives it a real vintage look that sets it apart from the herd.

[cop414]

Amazing, fantastic journey!! Congratulations and thank you for sharing all the steps. If you do send it to ABC please keep us posted and take lotsa pics, not that anyone needs to remind you of that!

[Laszlo]

Really impressive. Great restore. Wow.

[watchwatcher]

Enjoyed the story and congrats on a very successful project!

[rolex_DateJust]

Beautiful watch. Amazing pictures as well. Enjoy it to the fullest

[AK-Rolestar]

Wow! What an inspirational journey. Thanks for sharing and enjoy your amazing watch!

[fmc000]

Beautiful post, story and watch. Bravo!

Sent from my SGS using Tapatalk.

[Broker Boy]

Fascinating! Thanks for sharing.

[Cru Jones]

Great read and pix! Thanks. I'm not sure I would have done the same with the hands and dial, but, you happy, I happy.

[JUSTROLEXES]

Nicely done my friend

[threemonkeys]

Great story and beautiful pics. I bet the work you put in to your watch will make it even more special.

[ecsub44]

Excellent!

[toph]

What a great post! The watch looks wonderful