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16 August 2018, 01:42 AM | #1 |
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Choosing the Right Explorer I
Hey guys, I'm newer to posting here, but have spent a lot of time reading posts. This community seems extremely knowledgable and helpful, so I thought now was the right time to post as I'm currently, daily, stuck in choosing the right explorer for me. I have almost zero friends in to watches so it's hard for me to ask questions to people I know.
I am 6'1", 175 lbs and I have 6-1/4" wrists. Definitely skinny wrists for my build. Currently I own a fun, limited edition Squale and also a Tudor Black Bay GMT. I really enjoy leather, rubber and Nato straps, but would like to have a watch I could wear on steel and be comfortable with so the Explorer is a natural choice. I'm also in to mountain climbing and have climbed some substantial mountains in the past, and will likely do so again in the future so the Explorer really speaks to me with it's heritage. Anyway, here are the models I'm between and reasons why I can't decide. Any and all input is appreciated. Budget it not a major concern, I just want to pick the right model for me. 1. 1016 with Matte Dial and Acrylic crystal - Ideally from 1984. Cons - Tough to find in original and GOOD condition, don't know who to really trust online to buy something like this. Also, its an expensive piece so I'm not sure wearing it daily is appropriate for me. Might be a watch for me down the road to collect. 2. 14270 with Tritium and Drilled lug holes - Finding one in really good condition with box and papers could be hard, no solid end links, oldest movement out of the modern explorers. 3. Late model 114270 M or Z serial with engraved inner bezel - Actually found one of these in great shape with box and papers. Also looks like it was never polished. Found for around $5k delivered too. Was about to pull the trigger on this but thought I would post for advice. 4. Newest 214270 with 369 Lume - Only downside to me here could be the size. The two watches I have now are bigger, over 40mm and wear ok for me. I like a bigger watch sometimes. Upgraded bracelet, clasp and movement is a huge plus. Wasn't sure if the wider clasp might wear funny on my smaller wrist tho (i've seen people who after links are out, the clasp doesn't sit centered on small wrists). Currently trying to find the opportunity to try one of these on, but it's proving somewhat difficult. Any advice is appreciated! |
16 August 2018, 12:29 PM | #2 |
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Dear Stoge,
I chose the 114270 version. There are lots of nice ones out there ranging in cost from $4k to $5.5k USD. I shot for the middle of the range and scored a dandy watch. Although some prefer the larger 214270, I find the 36mm to be a more subtle classic size and look. Even though smaller, it still has a nice "presence." It would be a good idea to go to an AD and try on the new one and take it from there. Best of luck, AQBill |
16 August 2018, 12:39 PM | #3 |
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114270 for best value and choice for me.
Had the above and felt it was too small (my wrists are a bit bigger) then had the newest 369 lume, watch is fantastic in nearly every way and though (very minor quibble) the size was not an issue the overall balance and case shape just wasn’t for me. Specifically the curve of the lugs presented themselves as a bit squared off vs. the taper of the older version. Had the lugs been designed like the Daytona it would have been PERFECT! Oh well such is the way things can be in this hobby.
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16 August 2018, 12:52 PM | #4 |
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I would go (and went with) the new model. My wrists are also pretty small, and I don’t wear anything over 42, but 36 for a frequent wearer is too small I feel. Vintage stuff is scary to look for.
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16 August 2018, 12:56 PM | #5 |
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have you considered the oyster perpetual 3 6 9 36 mm?
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17 August 2018, 01:33 AM | #6 |
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This.
Looked for a mint 114270 for over a year. In the end I tried a 3-6-9 OP. Totally different experience. Lot of the difference due to the bracelet. If you «only» like the look of the Explorer 36mm, and does not have to go «vintage», check out the OP. Vintage argument out of the way the new OP also makes more sense moneywise. |
17 August 2018, 06:07 AM | #7 | |
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Quote:
Totally Agree with this alternative too. My 2nd choice was going to be the newer case 36mm OP 3,6,9. Tried it on too and wow that it wear larger than the older 36mm cases. In a perfect world Rolex would re-issue the Exp1 in new 36mm case size. bigC |
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16 August 2018, 02:23 PM | #8 |
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In my opinion, the proportions of the 36mm models are spot on (1016, 14270, or 114270). If you have the wrist size to pull it off, stick with one of those
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16 August 2018, 02:27 PM | #9 |
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16 August 2018, 02:33 PM | #10 |
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I know you said you were getting this for the bracelet but if you think you might want to use a strap sometimes, the 14270 is a good option. I have read that on the 114270, with the switch to SELs they moved the lug holes further towards the case, and straps don’t really fit well. Similarly I have read it can be difficult to fit straps on the 214270 because there is not much space and a sharp edge on the case can scratch the straps.
I agree with others about the proportions being slightly different on the 214270. It’s still a very nice watch, but it’s not just a “big” version of the older Explorer; it’s more different than that. |
16 August 2018, 02:50 PM | #11 |
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114270
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16 August 2018, 03:11 PM | #12 |
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I have a similar sized wrist and found the 114270 to be the better fit. If you plan on using straps with the 114270, you can always used curved spring bars. Since I put them on mine, the straps do not rub on the case anymore
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16 August 2018, 03:44 PM | #13 |
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Choosing the Right Explorer I
Just FYI, the 39mm 214270 has a larger dial than a 40mm SubC. It does look larger than 39 mm size suggests.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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16 August 2018, 03:54 PM | #14 |
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114270
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16 August 2018, 04:04 PM | #15 |
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I highly recommend the 214270 39 mm. Modern watches are getting bigger.
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16 August 2018, 07:58 PM | #16 |
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I had a 214270 with the MK I dial. I later traded it, and eventually bought an M serial 114270. I really enjoy wearing the classic 36mm Explorer, and it's right at home on my 7.5 inch wrist.
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16 August 2018, 08:09 PM | #17 |
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I had the 114270, hated the bracelet. Now have the 214270.
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16 August 2018, 08:45 PM | #18 |
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Here’s a thought, why not try a 36mm oyster perpetual with a 3,6,9 dial? It’s current production so you get the benefits of being able to buy new, solid bracelet and movement, and its a bit beefier than the 114270 so it could be a good compromise between the 36mm and 39mm Explorer size wise.
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16 August 2018, 09:44 PM | #19 |
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You and I have a very similar build. I would go with the 1016. Very classic, and still can be had for a fair amount-though they like many models have gone up a ways in the past 2 years.
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16 August 2018, 10:54 PM | #20 |
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114720
I would not pay premium for a 1016 if I could get a 114270 for half the price. With your size wrist, I would think a 36mm would be best. I went to my local AD to try on a 36mm date just and a 39 mm OP to see what size Explorer was best for me. I am 5-10 with 6 3/4 wrist. The 36 looked small on my wrist. I would highly suggest doing what I did and try on those 36mm references that are available to see then decide. Pictures here do not help a lot for your sizing.
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16 August 2018, 11:03 PM | #21 |
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4. Good luck!
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17 August 2018, 12:50 AM | #22 |
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3. Late model 114270 M or Z serial with engraved inner bezel - Actually found one of these in great shape with box and papers. Also looks like it was never polished. Found for around $5k delivered too. Was about to pull the trigger on this but thought I would post for advice.
Myself at 5'8 and 205lbs and 7.25~7.5inch wrist I prefer the 36mm size Having owned a 14270 and now a 114270 pay the extra premium and go with the newer variant of the 36mm. The added SEL, engraved inner bezel, more shock resistant movement is just all worth it. On wrist you just feel like its a much more refined watch. Plus, it is feels lightweight compared to larger 39mm or 40mm Rolex watches I have owned. I paid $5200 for my "M" series and with no box and no papers from a watch jewelry store that does appraisals and servicing. Much like many gray dealers. Had I found a "V" series 114270 from 2009~2010 I would have paid up to $6K just to have the newest possible. The 39mm Exp I have had on my wrist 3 times and I just can't justify having a large watch on my wrist. Love Sinn 556a watch which wears like its advertised size, but the Exp 39mm feels and looks like its over 40mm. So just be aware of that. There is a local Rolex AD in my area that sells NEW and used plus vintage Rolex. Last month I visited they had 3 Rolex 1016 with Gilt Dial and with traditional dials ranging from $12K~$30K. These watches feels flimsy, look simple, and yet had I had the extra cash would have purchased in a heartbeat. For some odd reason while it is 36mm they just looked and felt slightly smaller than 114270. Maybe the vintage matte dial. Dont know but they did feel smaller. Overall the Exp 1 is awesome regardless of what you choose. Here is the 114270 on bracelet and GasGasBones Strap with smudges and all its glory. |
17 August 2018, 02:54 AM | #23 |
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I like the modern proportions and the bracelet/clasp. I would go with the 39mm.
You can't go wrong with both though. |
17 August 2018, 03:27 AM | #24 |
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I have a 214270 and love it. I considered an older 36mm version but my DateJust always looked small to me so I opted for the 39mm (7" wrist). I'm very happy with it.
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17 August 2018, 07:05 AM | #25 | |
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Quote:
REALLY love the clean look and perfect size of the 214270...and the non lume always seems shaper to me... |
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17 August 2018, 04:53 AM | #26 |
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Another vote for the 114270.
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17 August 2018, 07:32 AM | #27 |
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For me this would be my choice , in order
1) 1016 gilt 2) 1016 matte 3) 14270 lug holes in case 4) 114270 5) smiths w10 6) 214270 , which I’d sell to buy one of the above |
18 August 2018, 01:12 AM | #28 |
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I'd go 214270 for the sturdier bracelet and clasp.
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18 August 2018, 12:19 PM | #29 |
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Thanks for all of the replies everyone. My local AD does have the 39 mm in stock so I’m going to go try it on. I’m also now going to at least try on the 36mm OP thanks to several of you suggesting it. I’m not in a huge hurry, just want to pick the right watch! I missed the boat on the 114270 that I was eyeing anyway as someone already had it reserved. Will let you know how it goes.
Must say what a great community. It took a bit for my post to get approved by mods so I checked back a day or so later and was shocked by so many responses. Cheers. |
18 August 2018, 02:11 PM | #30 | |
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Post photos after you seal the deal !
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