Did Rolex lose it's soul with the 43mm Sea Dweller?

[subdateII]

The professional line has always evolved driven by innovation. Here is my grip with this version:

1. The increase in size from 40mm did not come with any increase in performance. The watch is still rated for 4,000 feet.

2. I don't understand the addition of the two tone version in 2019 for such a technically capable watch.

[Rashid.bk]

Yes, 40mm was classic and perfect.
And no, the 43mm is just as beautiful. The only concern I really see is that the case back protrudes a little and can be a bit uncomfortable. If I honestly liked it before, I still like it today.

[subdateII]

Originally Posted by Rashid.bk

Yes, 40mm was classic and perfect.
And no, the 43mm is just as beautiful. The only concern I really see is that the case back protrudes a little and can be a bit uncomfortable. If I honestly liked it before, I still like it today.

I had the same reasoning but then the way the watch sits on wrist became a deal breaker for me.There a couple of models where the increase in size actually made me lose interest even though the makers preserved the lineage, aesthetics and quality:

- 43 mm Rolex SD vs 40mm
- 41 mm 15400 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak vs 39mm of the 15300/15202

[007_Omega]

Originally Posted by Rashid.bk

Yes, 40mm was classic and perfect.
And no, the 43mm is just as beautiful. The only concern I really see is that the case back protrudes a little and can be a bit uncomfortable. If I honestly liked it before, I still like it today.

They did it so it looks thinner than it actually is and it works, thus why so many people enjoy this watch as a daily. Totally an aesthetic decision. I find flat casebacks more comfortable as well. The GMT disappears on my wrist.

I got the opportunity to try the SD4K on for the first time last week. Honestly, the SD43 is better proportioned and the better watch. Also, people on the forums constantly talk about the SD4K watch having traditional lugs but actually they are slimmed down lugs from the ill-proportioned Sub but they aren't nearly as tapered as the SD43 or others.

Considering this watch is no longer a true professional tool watch, even if it was the increased dial/bezel size would be a purposeful function and useful, the 43 makes a lot of sense.

I am going to venture the OP got this thought from IDGuy's video. I really enjoy his vids but I'll disagree with him here.

The SD43 is the best diver Rolex makes, plain and simple. I've tried them all. I'm not a fan of the cyclops; I see it as a move to push the watch into the "big Sub" category but that aside Rolex nailed the watch. The size is deceiving. The deepsea is an oversized watch. The SD43 works on pretty much any guy's wrist.

EDIT: Would like to add another point. At least with the SD43, Rolex put two feet forward rather than trying to play it both progressive and conservative like they did with the Sub-C. They increased the size of the bracelet to 22mm and actually increased the size of the watch, while bringing back classic lugs. Unlike the mistakes with the Sub-C, dramatically increased lug size to make it appear a lot bigger than a classic 40 while keeping a 20mm bracelet on a watch that was now much wider. If anything, the Sub-C deserves the criticism that the SD43 gets from its haters. Even the Deepsea increased the size by virtue of it being a technical wonder. The Sub-C is still a 300m water resistant watch that didn't know where it fit in a world that increasingly moved towards big watches.

Anyway, my rant over. I have no bias in this game. I don't any of these watches anymore so I am just giving my unbiased opinion.

[GoingPlaces]

Originally Posted by 007_Omega

They did it so it looks thinner than it actually is and it works, thus why so many people enjoy this watch as a daily. Totally an aesthetic decision. I find flat casebacks more comfortable as well. The GMT disappears on my wrist.

I got the opportunity to try the SD4K on for the first time last week. Honestly, the SD43 is better proportioned and the better watch. Also, people on the forums constantly talk about the SD4K watch having traditional lugs but actually they are slimmed down lugs from the ill-proportioned Sub but they aren't nearly as tapered as the SD43 or others.

Considering this watch is no longer a true professional tool watch, even if it was the increased dial/bezel size would be a purposeful function and useful, the 43 makes a lot of sense.

I am going to venture the OP got this thought from IDGuy's video. I really enjoy his vids but I'll disagree with him here.

The SD43 is the best diver Rolex makes, plain and simple. I've tried them all. I'm not a fan of the cyclops; I see it as a move to push the watch into the "big Sub" category but that aside Rolex nailed the watch. The size is deceiving. The deepsea is an oversized watch. The SD43 works on pretty much any guy's wrist.

EDIT: Would like to add another point. At least with the SD43, Rolex put two feet forward rather than trying to play it both progressive and conservative like they did with the Sub-C. They increased the size of the bracelet to 22mm and actually increased the size of the watch, while bringing back classic lugs. Unlike the mistakes with the Sub-C, dramatically increased lug size to make it appear a lot bigger than a classic 40 while keeping a 20mm bracelet on a watch that was now much wider. If anything, the Sub-C deserves the criticism that the SD43 gets from its haters. Even the Deepsea increased the size by virtue of it being a technical wonder. The Sub-C is still a 300m water resistance watch that didn't knew where it fit in a world that increasingly moved towards big watches.

Anyway, my rant over. I have no bias in this game. I don't any of these watches anymore so I am just giving my unbiased opinion.

Great insight. Thank you.


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[GreatScott]

I was not really digging that the dial was the exact same size, they just increased the bezel. So, no enhancement to legibility was made.

As for losing a soul, not sure inanimate objects have one.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

[037]

Originally Posted by GreatScott

I was not really digging that the dial was the exact same size, they just increased the bezel. So, no enhancement to legibility was made.

The dial is 1mm larger in diameter, minute hand is longer and the hour hand is wider/larger overall. And, the date is easier to read with a cyclops. That's four enhancements to legibility, despite being incremental.

I still prefer the 40mm myself.

[No SUBctitute]

Originally Posted by 037

The dial is 1mm larger in diameter, minute hand is longer and the hour hand is wider/larger overall. And, the date is easier to read with a cyclops. That's four enhancements to legibility, despite being incremental.

I still prefer the 40mm myself.

Thanks for clarifying. Very interesting.

[subdateII]

Originally Posted by GreatScott

As for losing a soul, not sure inanimate objects have one.

Published by Rolex:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vooDhbcZSYA

At the end you can hear this "...a philosophy that embues every timepiece... his spirit lives on it is perpetual"

[locutus49]

I'm not sure animate objects have them either.

Originally Posted by GreatScott

I was not really digging that the dial was the exact same size, they just increased the bezel. So, no enhancement to legibility was made.

As for losing a soul, not sure inanimate objects have one.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

[fsprow]

I love this watch and it has done 30+ hours of diving. Bezel is easy to turn and the cyclops makes it easy to tell the date -- not that this is a really essential piece of information underwater!! The divers extension works perfectly with my wet suit when it is used.

I imagine the addition of a two tone version was to sell more watches, which of course is their business.

[subdateII]

Originally Posted by fsprow

I love this watch and it has done 30+ hours of diving. Bezel is easy to turn and the cyclops makes it easy to tell the date -- not that this is a really essential piece of information underwater!! The divers extension works perfectly with my wet suit when it is used.

Thank you! Great to here that these are actually used for diving. So the increase in size from 40mm is better for underwater use/readability?

[kieselguhr]

Originally Posted by subdateII

Thank you! Great to here that these are actually used for diving. So the increase in size from 40mm is better for underwater use/readability?

As you go down in depth, multiple factors start coming into play. Loss of light resulting in reduced visibility, nitrogen narcosis, even stupid things like your mask fogging up. Although it’s a very marginal increase in size, every bit helps I suppose. I prefer an actual dive computer as opposed to a mechanical watch, but it’s nice to have one as a backup. In which case I would pick the one with the largest diameter. Fashion wise however, people complain about their “tool watch” size and demand smaller watches...

[scubadds]

Originally Posted by fsprow

I love this watch and it has done 30+ hours of diving. Bezel is easy to turn and the cyclops makes it easy to tell the date -- not that this is a really essential piece of information underwater!! The divers extension works perfectly with my wet suit when it is used.

I imagine the addition of a two tone version was to sell more watches, which of course is their business.

Curious if you also use a dive computer when you dive?

I stopped wearing my sub 15 years ago; but have also have had a brand new dive computer die on me mid-dive;
Now I use two computers; but year-year the batteries become issues.....

[fsprow]

Originally Posted by scubadds

Curious if you also use a dive computer when you dive?

I stopped wearing my sub 15 years ago; but have also have had a brand new dive computer die on me mid-dive;
Now I use two computers; but year-year the batteries become issues.....

Yes I have an Oceanic dive computer but put it on my opposite wrist only when going deep or long. Just got back from the Maldives. Phenomenal.

Best, Frank


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[kieselguhr]

Originally Posted by fsprow

Yes I have an Oceanic dive computer but put it on my opposite wrist only when going deep or long. Just got back from the Maldives. Phenomenal.

Best, Frank


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Which etere were you diving? We did Dhigurah in south atoll and from 12m to 18m, we were relieved to see everything come back to color

[Jason71]

Originally Posted by scubadds

Curious if you also use a dive computer when you dive?

I stopped wearing my sub 15 years ago; but have also have had a brand new dive computer die on me mid-dive;
Now I use two computers; but year-year the batteries become issues.....

The reason I dive my Rolex as my primary dive timer and a digital gauge / timer as a backup. I travel with two Rolex divers just in the rare instance of a water ingress issue. I’ve never had a Rolex fail on a dive. A computer? More than once.

[Brian Page]

Originally Posted by Jason71

The reason I dive my Rolex as my primary dive timer and a digital gauge / timer as a backup. I travel with two Rolex divers just in the rare instance of a water ingress issue. I’ve never had a Rolex fail on a dive. A computer? More than once.

Isn't that the truth...

[No SUBctitute]

Originally Posted by Jason71

The reason I dive my Rolex as my primary dive timer and a digital gauge / timer as a backup. I travel with two Rolex divers just in the rare instance of a water ingress issue. I’ve never had a Rolex fail on a dive. A computer? More than once.

I like the way you think!

When I went diving several months ago, upon descent I rotated my bezel to keep track of how long I was down. As I was rotating my bezel I felt a gaze. I looked up and saw the dive instructor--with computer strapped to her wrist--glaring at me like I was nuts.

[33JS]

Not with the stainless, but they sold their soul on the bi-metal horror.

[Rrpdc]

Originally Posted by 33js

not with the stainless, but they sold their soul on the bi-metal horror.

+1

[abozz]

I LOVE Rolex because are badass/elegant sport watches with tool features and a lifespan realiability, and my grail is the SD43, the best diver ever made (I.M. may be not humble O.).

My answer is: NO


The SD43 is the best representation of the modern Rolex soul.

[EndlessEight]

Originally Posted by abozz

I LOVE Rolex because are badass/elegant sport watches with tool features and a lifespan realiability, and my grail is the SD43, the best diver ever made (I.M. may be not humble O.).

My answer is: NO


The SD43 is the best representation of the modern Rolex soul.

The SD43 is better than the current iteration of the Sub.

Now, if Rolex updates the Sub and slims the lugs in the process, it will be a different story.

[007_Omega]

Originally Posted by EndlessEight

The SD43 is better than the current iteration of the Sub.

Now, if Rolex updates the Sub and slims the lugs in the process, it will be a different story.

Rolex is in a bit of conundrum with that, well sort of because they are basically printing money at this point. If they reduce the lugs to SD43 levels, it'll be an acknowledgement that the Sub-C was a mistake or at least a watch that was totally designed for the big watch era.

Rolex will more likely slightly slim the lugs, a la the GMTs, and call it day. If Rolex gives the watch a 21mm bracelet with slightly trimmed lugs, it'll fix its proportions. Will Rolex give up the purity of the 40mm/20mm ratio though? Another direction would be to simply give in and increase the size of the watch. With the SD43 in the lineup, that seems unlikely but there is precedence. The Sub used to be 38mm so it has not always been a 40mm watch like people claim.

I think most people are in agreement that Rolex will simply add the new movement, slightly alter the dial with the crown between swiss made/possible small font alterations, slightly trim down the lugs, and keep the 40/20mm ratio. It'll sell out and will not stir the pot so to speak.

For the record, I completely acknowledge that there are plenty of "fat lug" Submariner fans but my theory, based on talking to a lot of people about the issue, is that they simply like the added presence and perceived size. So if they want to cater to that crowd, just make the watch bigger. I guess that was the SD43's place but again I think the Submariner name is the crown jewel of Rolex. People go in wanting a Sub.

[Boaters]

Originally Posted by abozz

I LOVE Rolex because are badass/elegant sport watches with tool features and a lifespan realiability, and my grail is the SD43, the best diver ever made (I.M. may be not humble O.).

My answer is: NO


The SD43 is the best representation of the modern Rolex soul.

Well said

[petay993]

The bi metal SD 43 is misguided nonsense, the worst kind of premium fashion bling, a watch that has sold it's soul and heritage. The only thing worse would be a bi metal DSSD and whilst that would be clearly insane, this is nearly as bad.

My AD showed me one a few weeks ago with an excited face, I told them to put back in the deepest part of their safe.

Someone bought it an hour later, crazy times!

[33JS]

Originally Posted by petay993

The bi metal SD 43 is misguided nonsense, the worst kind of premium fashion bling, a watch that has sold it's soul and heritage. The only thing worse would be a bi metal DSSD and whilst that would be clearly insane, this is nearly as bad.

My AD showed me one a few weeks ago with an excited face, I told them to put back in the deepest part of their safe.

Someone bought it an hour later, crazy times!

I so agree!!

[scubadds]

Originally Posted by petay993

The bi metal SD 43 is misguided nonsense, the worst kind of premium fashion bling, a watch that has sold it's soul and heritage. The only thing worse would be a bi metal DSSD and whilst that would be clearly insane, this is nearly as bad.

My AD showed me one a few weeks ago with an excited face, I told them to put back in the deepest part of their safe.

Someone bought it an hour later, crazy times!

I can see where you are coming from as a tool perspective....along the lines of Saddam Hussein's gold "tools" shown as war trophies.

However, as I would gather most SD43's don't see heavy dive use...I can visualize someone that likes to dive (or did at one point in their life), likes big watches and wants a bit of gold. (the gold part is subjective and also age-relevant; I wear a platinum wedding band, but yellow gold is popular to some people)
As the expression in the car industry "there is an arse for every seat" applies here "there is a wrist for every watch"

I saw one in the case at my AD, tried it on for size; I can see it being worn and looking good for some of the "old Salts" in our coastal community;

[Amochosto]

.

[Noonan]

What's different between a TT SD and a full gold Sub?? The Sub is still a tool/diver watch as well.