Messed up a bracelet link. What do I do?

[Bulldozer]

I used loctite 222 on my oyster bracelet link screws, and had forgotten about it. I tried to remove a link using a 1.6 mm tool, and completely messed up the screw head. The slot in the screw head is now mangled, and I'm not able to get a screw driver in there. :(

What can I do? Can I just hammer from the other side and get the screw out (by breaking it)?

Rolex dealer store locations are closed for the time being in my state, with no reopen date yet.

[schoolboy]

Holy smokes.

Well what you should’ve done is heated up the other side to loosen up the loctite.

What if you try that now and see if it helps?

[watchmework]

Originally Posted by Bulldozer

I used loctite 222 on my oyster bracelet link screws, and had forgotten about it. I tried to remove a link using a 1.6 mm tool, and completely messed up the screw head. The slot in the screw head is now mangled, and I'm not able to get a screw driver in there. :(

What can I do? Can I just hammer from the other side and get the screw out (by breaking it)?

Rolex dealer store locations are closed for the time being in my state, with no reopen date yet.

I don't think you're going to be able to hammer it out from the other side since its a threaded screw...maybe try getting the next size up driver in there and turning the head?

[-dustin]

heat it up, make sure the driver head isn't mangled. if it's even slightly tweaked, replace before trying a 2nd time. now could be a good time to invest in a higher end driver, if necessary.

[TimeLord2]

Take out the other one above the mangled one and use your spares to make up the difference. Then give the segment you removed to a jeweler to remove the screw.

[schoolboy]

Originally Posted by TimeLord2

Take out the other one above the mangled one and use your spares to make up the difference. Then give the segment you removed to a jeweler to remove the screw.

Smart!


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[mmmmp]

Originally Posted by TimeLord2

Take out the other one above the mangled one and use your spares to make up the difference. Then give the segment you removed to a jeweler to remove the screw.

An EXCELLENT idea!


Although I still think with some carefully applied heat, a fresh screwdriver and a slow, patient approach: you can remove the mangled screw / pin yourself.

You have nothing to lose and everything to gain by giving it a try. Good luck, if successful, post some pix.

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[Onikage]

It might be an idea to get the offending area out anyway. Before you start applying any more force. You don't want to bend the rest of your watch.

[214270Explorer]

As a very last resort, it may be possible that you COULD saw a VERY fine slot across the bracelet link and down into what is left of the screw (assuming you could find such a thin saw) and then after heating the CARP out of female end on the link, twist out the screw.

Then you get a new link and a few extra screws (Rolex calls them "pins"

I do hope, however, that you can get the pin out using another method. The saw-cutting indeed sounds like a last-resort nightmare.

[Wobbly]

I have had a watch with a damaged screw head.

I took it to RSC, they tried, but said that the easiest way, was to cut off the link and replace it. As it was a oyster stainless steel link, it wasn’t too expensive.

[Bulldozer]

Originally Posted by schoolboy

Holy smokes.

Well what you should’ve done is heated up the other side to loosen up the loctite.

What if you try that now and see if it helps?

I know! I completely forgot about it. I will try now, but I'm doubtful I am going to find a grip.

Originally Posted by watchmework

I don't think you're going to be able to hammer it out from the other side since its a threaded screw...maybe try getting the next size up driver in there and turning the head?

Like a thicker driver that's still 1.6 mm?

Originally Posted by -dustin

heat it up, make sure the driver head isn't mangled. if it's even slightly tweaked, replace before trying a 2nd time. now could be a good time to invest in a higher end driver, if necessary.

The driver head is fine, but do you have links to better drivers? I can invest.

Originally Posted by TimeLord2

Take out the other one above the mangled one and use your spares to make up the difference. Then give the segment you removed to a jeweler to remove the screw.

I have a large wrist, and the watch currently has all links attached. I want to remove just one.

Originally Posted by 214270Explorer

As a very last resort, it may be possible that you COULD saw a VERY fine slot across the bracelet link and down into what is left of the screw (assuming you could find such a thin saw) and then after heating the CARP out of female end on the link, twist out the screw.

Then you get a new link and a few extra screws (Rolex calls them "pins"

I do hope, however, that you can get the pin out using another method. The saw-cutting indeed sounds like a last-resort nightmare.

Oh wow. Hopefully it does not come to this.

Originally Posted by Wobbly

I have had a watch with a damaged screw head.

I took it to RSC, they tried, but said that the easiest way, was to cut off the link and replace it. As it was a oyster stainless steel link, it wasn’t too expensive.

Would dealers not be able to do this in-house? I live in Boston. I don't think there is an RSC nearby?

[watchmework]

Originally Posted by Bulldozer

I know! I completely forgot about it. I will try now, but I'm doubtful I am going to find a grip.



Like a thicker driver that's still 1.6 mm?



The driver head is fine, but do you have links to better drivers? I can invest.



I have a large wrist, and the watch currently has all links attached. I want to remove just one.



Oh wow. Hopefully it does not come to this.



Would dealers not be able to do this in-house? I live in Boston. I don't think there is an RSC nearby?

If you stripped out the head of the screw, try seeing if you can fit a 1.7mm driver in there.

[Bulldozer]

Originally Posted by watchmework

If you stripped out the head of the screw, try seeing if you can fit a 1.7mm driver in there.

Tried a 1.7 and 1.8. No go. I think the problem is not having a slot anymore.

Originally Posted by jamesthejeweller

Use parallel blade drivers people!

Heat is the only thing that will degrade the loctite enough for you to get a turn on that pin. I suppose it doesn't matter now, but invest in some parallel drivers by Bergeon for any future resizing.

1.6 to 1.8mm

Best

J

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What are parallel blade drivers? Do you have a link? Google brings me back to the forum. Thanks!

[-dustin]

Originally Posted by Bulldozer

Tried a 1.7 and 1.8. No go. I think the problem is not having a slot anymore.



What are parallel blade drivers? Do you have a link? Google brings me back to the forum. Thanks!

Compare the tips. Left is a typical driver. Albeit, a very nice one. Right is a driver with parallel sides. More bite.

Picture quality ain’t great, but it’s kinda dark in my garage at the moment.

[Andad]

Originally Posted by -dustin

Compare the tips. Left is a typical driver. Albeit, a very nice one. Right is a driver with parallel sides. More bite.

Picture quality ain’t great, but it’s kinda dark in my garage at the moment.

I don't think i would use either of those screwdrivers on a watch?

You need a hollow ground 1.7mm tip.

Removing a screw from my Pepsi with a Rolex 2100.

[jamesthejeweller]

Use parallel blade drivers people!

Heat is the only thing that will degrade the loctite enough for you to get a turn on that pin. I suppose it doesn't matter now, but invest in some parallel drivers by Bergeon for any future resizing.

1.6 to 1.8mm

Best

J

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[Bulldozer]

Update: I just heated the other side of the screw really, really high, and tried to unscrew it. Unfortunately, I just could not find a grip for the driver.

[Tools]

Originally Posted by Bulldozer

I used loctite 222 on my oyster bracelet link screws, and had forgotten about it. I tried to remove a link using a 1.6 mm tool, and completely messed up the screw head. The slot in the screw head is now mangled, and I'm not able to get a screw driver in there. :(

What can I do? Can I just hammer from the other side and get the screw out (by breaking it)?

. . .

Based on this, I would say "Step away from the watch!!!"

No, do not bash the other end with a hammer..

There are fixtures made that hold the bracelet in position so a screwdriver can be used with pressure and torque. The treads need to be heated to high enough temps to break the loctite.

google Bracelet Screw Remover

Here is one type.

[77T]

Originally Posted by Tools

Based on this, I would say "Step away from the watch!!!"



No, do not bash the other end with a hammer..

I agree 100%.

No need to rush to take that link out.

Wait until your AD opens. You’re going to need a new screw anyway so let their watchmaker take care of it.





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[Dr.Brian]

I think I’d listen to Larry in this situation if I were you.
You think you can’t mess it up any more, but believe me, you can.
Time to let the pros have a go at it.
Good luck.

[maveric]

Is it normal to use loctite on a Rolex?

[myc ritz]

One of these would be more gentle and should work. You can usually find them on Hodinkee, when not sold out.

[-dustin]

Originally Posted by myc ritz

One of these would be more gentle and should work. You can usually find them on Hodinkee, when not sold out.

Harbor Freight sells them, too. With parallel faced bits.

[abozz]

I never buy the idea of use loctite, I like to change sometimes the configuration of the bracelet, I preffer to check the screws each night. In your case I recomend no more home work, go to the AD and let them to repair it with a new link.

Enviado desde mi SM-G975F mediante Tapatalk

[Onikage]

Originally Posted by abozz

I never buy the idea of use loctite

Once you have a screw keep working its way out you will understand. It's horrifying.

[Cryten]

If you messed up the factory head that badly, there's nothing you can do to fix it. We see this in the engineering field all the time. If you couldn't get it out with the fixture intact, you aren't getting it out by jury rigging it.

Removing that link with the others either side is the best option, otherwise pulling it apart completely and destroying it is more likely.

Vice grips and a vice will assist in the latter. Google will show how they're assembled. With enough force they come apart.

[sheldonsmith]

Originally Posted by Cryten

If you messed up the factory head that badly, there's nothing you can do to fix it. We see this in the engineering field all the time. If you couldn't get it out with the fixture intact, you aren't getting it out by jury rigging it.

Removing that link with the others either side is the best option, otherwise pulling it apart completely and destroying it is more likely.

Vice grips and a vice will assist in the latter. Google will show how they're assembled. With enough force they come apart.

https://www.minus4plus6.com/bracelet.php#remove

Hope this helps....

[inadeje]

Acrylic Jawed Vice and drill both sides with a 1.6mm diamond tip or similar steel drill.

Fit a new link. Done.

[jburson250]

Originally Posted by Bulldozer

I tried to remove a link using a 1.6 mm tool, and completely messed up the screw head.

This was your first error. The correct bit size is 1.7mm.

Please get one of these:

https://www.esslinger.com/horofix-sc...tips-included/

Best Regards,

[Bulldozer]

Originally Posted by jburson250

This was your first error. The correct bit size is 1.7mm.

Please get one of these:

https://www.esslinger.com/horofix-sc...tips-included/

Best Regards,

Would you definitely recommend that over this one?

https://www.esslinger.com/horofix-ge...djusting-tool/

Seems like this one might be more versatile.