How to change Rolex 5-digit aluminum bezel inserts 16610, 16710 etc.

[Bladeshot]

I like to change aluminum inserts on Rolex GMT Master II 16710 pieces. And sometimes on 16610 Submariners.

Thought this video may be helpful. A few people have reached out to ask, across the years.

There are better tools and approaches. I doubt this is how a Rolex AD would do it.

This is the simplest approach I have found, when you just can’t press the insert back in place by hand. I’m not an expert on the topic. Feel free to share your perspective. YMMV.

https://youtu.be/dVryPobMOFg

[khalifam]

Originally Posted by Bladeshot

I like to change aluminum inserts on Rolex GMT Master II 16710 pieces. And sometimes on 16610 Submariners.

Thought this video may be helpful. A few people have reached out to ask, across the years.

There are better tools and approaches. I doubt this is how a Rolex AD would do it.

This is the simplest approach I have found, when you just can’t press the insert back in place by hand. I’m not an expert on the topic. Feel free to share your perspective. YMMV.

https://youtu.be/dVryPobMOFg

Hey,

We spoke a few weeks ago and in my ignorance I completely forgot to reach out to thank you! I purchased the pliers and I found it was bit and miss (just got to get the technique right) and I'm still practicing!! I find it IMPOSSIBLE to do by hand so by far this is one of the easiest videos to follow.

If anyone has tips please do comment.

Thank you and again, a very informative video :)

Sent from my SM-N986B using Tapatalk

[Bladeshot]

Originally Posted by khalifam

Hey,

We spoke a few weeks ago and in my ignorance I completely forgot to reach out to thank you! I purchased the pliers and I found it was bit and miss (just got to get the technique right) and I'm still practicing!! I find it IMPOSSIBLE to do by hand so by far this is one of the easiest videos to follow.

If anyone has tips please do comment.

Thank you and again, a very informative video :)

Sent from my SM-N986B using Tapatalk

So glad you are making progress!
Happy to try to help.

[khalifam]

Originally Posted by Bladeshot

So glad you are making progress!
Happy to try to help.

Coke > Pepsi

Sent from my SM-N986B using Tapatalk

[Bladeshot]

Originally Posted by khalifam

Coke > Pepsi Attachment 1203805Attachment 1203806

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Awesome!

[rod727]

Very nice..

[fskywalker]

Originally Posted by Bladeshot

I like to change aluminum inserts on Rolex GMT Master II 16710 pieces. And sometimes on 16610 Submariners.

Thought this video may be helpful. A few people have reached out to ask, across the years.

There are better tools and approaches. I doubt this is how a Rolex AD would do it.

This is the simplest approach I have found, when you just can’t press the insert back in place by hand. I’m not an expert on the topic. Feel free to share your perspective. YMMV.

https://youtu.be/dVryPobMOFg

Nice Grant! That hand tool / plier with the white insert looks nice; who makes it?


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[Bladeshot]

Originally Posted by rod727

Very nice..

Originally Posted by fskywalker

Nice Grant! That hand tool / plier with the white insert looks nice; who makes it?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

It was a cheap one from eBay. I don’t see them at the moment. Here’s a better one from Amazon.

A search online for “nylon tipped pliers” should do it.

Rather than place a link, I’ll just let folks google it. It’s so dangerous clicking links in our forum. That’s how we get hacked. Everyone be cautious, clicking posts.

[fskywalker]

Originally Posted by Bladeshot

It was a cheap one from eBay. I don’t see them at the moment. Here’s a better one from Amazon.

A search online for “nylon tipped pliers” should do it.

Rather than place a link, I’ll just let folks google it. It’s so dangerous clicking links in our forum. That’s how we get hacked. Everyone be cautious, clicking posts.

Thanks!!


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[collarcity]

Reseating the insert for my 14060M was an absolute nightmare.

[Bladeshot]

Originally Posted by collarcity

Reseating the insert for my 14060M was an absolute nightmare.

I hear ya, Mark!

[scousejames]

Thanks for the vid, I had a lot of trouble clicking my Pepsi bezel back in.
Took me a good 25 minutes and I have since refrained from switching out the bezels.
Think I will purchase one of those pliers, hopefully it makes it easier in the future.

On another note, does anyone know if the bezel has to be put back on at a certain point? ie. 12 o clock first? because there were several tries where I put the bezel on and it wouldn't rotate.

[Bladeshot]

Originally Posted by scousejames

Thanks for the vid, I had a lot of trouble clicking my Pepsi bezel back in.
Took me a good 25 minutes and I have since refrained from switching out the bezels.
Think I will purchase one of those pliers, hopefully it makes it easier in the future.

On another note, does anyone know if the bezel has to be put back on at a certain point? ie. 12 o clock first? because there were several tries where I put the bezel on and it wouldn't rotate.

Definitely best to slide the bezel back in at 12:00. Turn a little counter clockwise as you begin to snap it down. There are written instructions on my YouTube video that mention that. It helps to do that to get the click spring back in place and not bind up.

[donq]

It’s not hard.
Pop the bezel off with a butter knife with a piece of scotch tape over the edge to prevent scratching.
Once it’s off, push the insert out from the inside using your thumbs. Probably a good idea to rinse everything off under the tap with some soap to get all the accumulated crud off.
Put a cloth or magazine or something on a solid surface so you don’t scratch your stuff up, put the insert in the bezel as much as you can by hand, and then put the bezel face down on your work surface with the protruding bit of the insert touching first.
Put your hand on the back of the bezel and push down until it pops in. It usually takes enough effort for you to wince slightly and wonder how much it’s going to cost to replace that insert. This is the moment of truth. Don’t cave in to fear.
After that just pop the bezel back on by hand, starting at one end and working around to the other side until it goes on. Don’t forget the friction or click springs that were in there when you started.

Easy peasy. I’ve done it several times and never had an issue. I wouldn’t do it with the new cerachrom jobs though.

[scooba]

I have done several on a couple off subs I owned and a Seadweller, then a couple of years back had a real nightmare with a GMT and buggered the insert , I went into St James and they replaced the insert for £50 the young lady said you just have to keep working it a tiny bit at a time round and round . Since that one I haven’t tried again

[Bladeshot]

Originally Posted by scooba

I have done several on a couple off subs I owned and a Seadweller, then a couple of years back had a real nightmare with a GMT and buggered the insert , I went into St James and they replaced the insert for £50 the young lady said you just have to keep working it a tiny bit at a time round and round . Since that one I haven’t tried again

It definitely can be off-putting, when they don’t go in easily. I realized that I just could not get some done, by hand. Needed a better approach.

[rmagoo57]

Originally Posted by donq

It’s not hard.
Pop the bezel off with a butter knife with a piece of scotch tape over the edge to prevent scratching.
Once it’s off, push the insert out from the inside using your thumbs. Probably a good idea to rinse everything off under the tap with some soap to get all the accumulated crud off.
Put a cloth or magazine or something on a solid surface so you don’t scratch your stuff up, put the insert in the bezel as much as you can by hand, and then put the bezel face down on your work surface with the protruding bit of the insert touching first.
Put your hand on the back of the bezel and push down until it pops in. It usually takes enough effort for you to wince slightly and wonder how much it’s going to cost to replace that insert. This is the moment of truth. Don’t cave in to fear.
After that just pop the bezel back on by hand, starting at one end and working around to the other side until it goes on. Don’t forget the friction or click springs that were in there when you started.

Easy peasy. I’ve done it several times and never had an issue. I wouldn’t do it with the new cerachrom jobs though.

Nice summary! I'm still a bezel insert virgin but will try soon. Want to wear the pepsi insert this summer.

I saw one video where this insert was installed last. He clicked the bezel in first making sure the click spring was in place and the bezel functioned properly before adding the insert. Seemed logical to me.

[Bladeshot]

Originally Posted by rmagoo57

Nice summary! I'm still a bezel insert virgin but will try soon. Want to wear the pepsi insert this summer.

I saw one video where this insert was installed last. He clicked the bezel in first making sure the click spring was in place and the bezel functioned properly before adding the insert. Seemed logical to me.

I’ve seen folks do that. However, that’s precisely the reason I made that short video. Someone was trying that approach and it just did not work. They could not get the insert into the bezel once the bezel was on the watch. Give it a go on the watch. And if it does not work out, you can always try this.

[Bladeshot]

Originally Posted by donq

It’s not hard.
Pop the bezel off with a butter knife with a piece of scotch tape over the edge to prevent scratching.
Once it’s off, push the insert out from the inside using your thumbs. Probably a good idea to rinse everything off under the tap with some soap to get all the accumulated crud off.
Put a cloth or magazine or something on a solid surface so you don’t scratch your stuff up, put the insert in the bezel as much as you can by hand, and then put the bezel face down on your work surface with the protruding bit of the insert touching first.
Put your hand on the back of the bezel and push down until it pops in. It usually takes enough effort for you to wince slightly and wonder how much it’s going to cost to replace that insert. This is the moment of truth. Don’t cave in to fear.
After that just pop the bezel back on by hand, starting at one end and working around to the other side until it goes on. Don’t forget the friction or click springs that were in there when you started.

Easy peasy. I’ve done it several times and never had an issue. I wouldn’t do it with the new cerachrom jobs though.

I like the - pushing the insert in while face down, on a table, idea. That’s a good one!

[JonaG]

I’ve swapped bezels a few times but the last time didn’t go so well as I scratched up the end link on the jubilee bracelet. I used a plastic spatula but the bezel was really stubborn coming off. I guess I applied too much force and the plastic indented the metal at 5 O’clock. I’ve tried to forget about it but it’s rather noticeable like a claw mark.

The incident has lowered my appetite to swap out bezels nilly willy.




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[HiBoost]

Originally Posted by JonaG

I used a plastic spatula but the bezel was really stubborn coming off. I guess I applied too much force and the plastic indented the metal at 5 O’clock. I’ve tried to forget about it but it’s rather noticeable like a claw mark.

Bummer, that's a pretty significant mark. Really surprising that plastic could gouge stainless. You sure that's what happened?

[Bladeshot]

Originally Posted by JonaG

I’ve swapped bezels a few times but the last time didn’t go so well as I scratched up the end link on the jubilee bracelet. I used a plastic spatula but the bezel was really stubborn coming off. I guess I applied too much force and the plastic indented the metal at 5 O’clock. I’ve tried to forget about it but it’s rather noticeable like a claw mark.

The incident has lowered my appetite to swap out bezels nilly willy.




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I can sympathize. I used a metal tool and dinged a lug once. It’s just hard to imagine a nylon spatula scratching metal. But there it is. It happened on yours. Maybe some kind of carbon debris was on the spatula.

I’ve bought several of these small, blue “iFixIt” tools on eBay. They come from England. They are specifically made to take apart smartphones when people are working on them. They work great.

When you get your watch serviced by Rolex, they should be able to sell you a set of end links and it should be quite affordable.