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Old 22 May 2009, 12:06 PM   #1
Tools
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Big Watches.......Another Perspective

With Rolex introduction into "big watches" lately in the form of block cases and the 41mm Day Date, the 41mm Datejust, and the rotund 43mm Deep Sea, it seems that there is a trend here.

Is Rolex on the right track here ?

Some may think so... others might not see things the same way... Indeed, even Pateks latest entry into the watch field is a respectable 38mm.

Here is what Philippe Stern, owner of Patek Philippe, says about the excesses in the watch market and the "jumbo watch trend."

"Every time a new model is developed, the key issues are its function as a measuring instrument and the need for easily legible indications. The silhouette of the movement and the integration of its functions within a reasonable diameter are the guiding factors as well, because despite the current trend toward ever bulkier wristwatches, Patek Philippe may not always meet the market's capricious aesthetic preferences, but Patek Philippe knows from 170 years of experience that lasting value can only be created with confidence in matters of style and with deep respect for the principles that define the heritage of watchmaking."

So, the new millenium is turning into an interesting fashion statement vs. horological tradition and sensibilities..

Which will win ?

Who's to say.

Is Rolex suddenly moving off their dime, but too little to late................or are they just introducing models that can be dropped at a moments notice and hedging their bets......... ?

It is it the economy, or just a coincidence that Rolex has lost 40 percent in sales since the introduction of their bulky block cases and gaudy pave' models ?
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Old 22 May 2009, 12:34 PM   #2
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I think the trend for slightly larger watches will remain forever. The extreme sized watches are probably more of a transient style. If you look at the first wrist watches, they were tiny little things.
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Old 22 May 2009, 12:51 PM   #3
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Personally I think a 39mm DayDate would have been more appropriate and very nice. The extra 2mm seems to be just for shock value.

So long as they keep letting people have the option, I don't care whether or not they choose to sell the bigger watches.
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Old 22 May 2009, 07:59 PM   #4
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Personally I think a 39mm DayDate would have been more appropriate and very nice. The extra 2mm seems to be just for shock value.
x2!

couldnt agree with you more.
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Old 22 May 2009, 10:37 PM   #5
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Personally I think a 39mm DayDate would have been more appropriate and very nice. The extra 2mm seems to be just for shock value.

So long as they keep letting people have the option, I don't care whether or not they choose to sell the bigger watches.
agreed, 39mm would have been perfection in my eyes
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Old 23 May 2009, 12:08 AM   #6
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agreed, 39mm would have been perfection in my eyes
Double agree!


You guys might want to look into the MKII Vantage. I have one, it's fantastic. Matte dial, 39mm...


http://www.mkiiwatches.com/WSWrapper...e=cg02_new.htm


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Old 23 May 2009, 12:36 AM   #7
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Personally I think a 39mm DayDate would have been more appropriate and very nice. The extra 2mm seems to be just for shock value.
x2!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I thought they should have increased it to 38mm.. 39 at most.
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Old 23 May 2009, 12:48 AM   #8
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I think that people today are bigger than 50 years ago. I collect vintage watches. Lots of Hamiltons and Bulovas. They indeed look a little "small" on me, but look great and feel great under a suit coat or Tux. My 34MM AK and TT Date look fine too for casual wear. My Omega Speedmaster 145.022 feels really big on me. I couldn't imagine wearing anything larger than that and I'm 6'00 and 240LBS. Good taste requires that nothing worn yells out, "look at me!!!!."
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Old 23 May 2009, 01:22 AM   #9
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Good taste requires that nothing worn yells out, "look at me!!!!."


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Old 23 May 2009, 01:42 AM   #10
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I think PP appeals to a different demographic: upper class, older money, or at least very sophisticated watch collectors. PP (and VC for that matter) is still out of the loop when it comes to most brands. Their main focus is the tradional gold watch on a strap. This is while all of us wonder why Rolex doesn't nix the Cellini line and come out with yet another dive/race/power plant worker watch. Many of us would rather have three Subbies than one Calatrava. I hope PP never goes "action packed," "to the extreme!," "secret agenti" and remains gently elegant.
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Old 23 May 2009, 01:46 AM   #11
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I think PP appeals to a different demographic: upper class, older money, or at least very sophisticated watch collectors. PP (and VC for that matter) is still out of the loop when it comes to most brands. Their main focus is the tradional gold watch on a strap. This is while all of us wonder why Rolex doesn't nix the Cellini line and come out with yet another dive/race/power plant worker watch. Many of us would rather have three Subbies than one Calatrava. I hope PP never goes "action packed," "to the extreme!," "secret agenti" and remains gently elegant.
Again, I think it's down to lifestyle. I may get a PP when I'm in a rocking chair but I read a thread on a PP forum where the OP asked "what sport can I play in my new PP _ _ _ _ _ _. All the answers were...not golf, not tennis, not jogging etc etc. When I slow down, I could wear a watch with a more delicate movment. For me at the moment, the priority is robustness hence the 3135 116660.
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Old 23 May 2009, 08:33 AM   #12
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I think PP appeals to a different demographic: upper class, older money, or at least very sophisticated watch collectors. PP (and VC for that matter) is still out of the loop when it comes to most brands. Their main focus is the tradional gold watch on a strap. This is while all of us wonder why Rolex doesn't nix the Cellini line and come out with yet another dive/race/power plant worker watch. Many of us would rather have three Subbies than one Calatrava. I hope PP never goes "action packed," "to the extreme!," "secret agenti" and remains gently elegant.
Excellent point. Years ago, when I was learning about wine, I told a friend who is a wine connoisseur that I "like big red wines". He looked at me like I was a poor, inbred cousin, took pity on me, and took me by the hand. After a few years of education, drinking some Montrachet and Chablis Premier Crus, I got it. You judge a work of art on it's merits, not your own prejudices. There is a place in the world for the working Sub, for the cocktail Sub, for the Milgauss under a nice sleeve, for the glamorous diamond President at a formal affair. Everything is context, and every picture needs the proper frame.
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Old 23 May 2009, 12:48 AM   #13
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Hey TheDude, that is one seriously cool wristshot. The watch looks superb too.
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Old 23 May 2009, 01:28 AM   #14
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Hey TheDude, that is one seriously cool wristshot. The watch looks superb too.
Thanks!

I took that in January in Death Valley. That crater is called Ubehebe Crater.


http://www.ziggy1.com/ays/dv/dvuc.htm
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Old 23 May 2009, 06:13 AM   #15
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Personally I think a 39mm DayDate would have been more appropriate and very nice. The extra 2mm seems to be just for shock value.

So long as they keep letting people have the option, I don't care whether or not they choose to sell the bigger watches.
My thoughts exactly. Well said, Yume-sama.
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Old 22 May 2009, 01:33 PM   #16
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I used to think 40mm for the sub was way too small and wished it was around 42mm (as I used to wear a 45mm PO before). Having said that, I reckon 40mm is just about the right size for the Sub after having worn it for around a month now.

I hope Rolex stick to 40mm for Sports watches. Then again, I have unconventional taste - I don't even like the new ceramic bezels!
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Old 22 May 2009, 01:46 PM   #17
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41mm and 43mm are too big. Heck, 40mm is bigger than I want to wear. I'm out.

Fortunately, enough 36mm DD and DateJusts were made to keep me happy.
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Old 22 May 2009, 01:55 PM   #18
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Rolex does not need large watch size to be recognized.
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Old 22 May 2009, 01:55 PM   #19
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i think the market demands bigger is better. its not like people arent buying these models...
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Old 22 May 2009, 01:55 PM   #20
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Another great, thought-provoking thread from Tools. For decades, Rolex actively avoided following the crowd - eg. no "limited edition'' or numbered models and no watches bigger than 40mm. In fact, standing apart from the rest of the watch crowd was very likely part of their corporate strategy. So the decision to upsize to 41-43mm must have been taken after very careful consideration.

My view of the move is positive - I believe watch companies have to offer their customers as wide a choice as possible and that is what Rolex is doing.

Having said that, I'm glad the company has adopted a "softly, softly'' approach - gradually testing the waters by making only a couple of models larger and not going overboard with the "bigger is better'' theme.
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Old 22 May 2009, 01:57 PM   #21
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One word to describe watches that big, well two actually: Tacky and obnoxious
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Old 22 May 2009, 06:57 PM   #22
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One word to describe watches that big, well two actually: Tacky and obnoxious
That's YOUR opinion. My Deepsea is neither tacky or obnoxious thank you very much. I think the larger watches suit those who are more active / sporty in their lifestyle. I have different watches for different occasions. My 36mm Raymond Weil goes very well with shirt and tie but looks like a fashion faux pas with shorts and T-shirt.
I wouldn't wear my 36mm Gold Tissot on the beach - my father did but he was in his 50s / 60s. I'm in my 30s and would look like a young fogey wearing a gold 36mm watch on the beach. When jogging, swimming, mountain biking, jet skiing etc or simply cooking a BBQ - Deepsea or Seamaster. I think Rolex certainly needed to modernize otherwise it would run out of new customers and only be selling to their long-in-the-tooth customers with one foot in the grave and the other on a banana skin.
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Old 22 May 2009, 07:06 PM   #23
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only be selling to their long-in-the-tooth customers with one foot in the grave and the other on a banana skin.
you young whipper snapper to the stocks with you
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Old 22 May 2009, 07:10 PM   #24
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... new customers and only be selling to their long-in-the-tooth customers with one foot in the grave and the other on a banana skin.
Yikes that sounds like a meeting at JJ's Octogenarian Kiwi Group!!!!!!!!!!



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Old 22 May 2009, 07:13 PM   #25
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Yikes that sounds like a meeting at JJ's Octogenarian Kiwi Group!!!!!!!!!!



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Old 22 May 2009, 07:11 PM   #26
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That's YOUR opinion. My Deepsea is neither tacky or obnoxious thank you very much. I think the larger watches suit those who are more active / sporty in their lifestyle. I have different watches for different occasions. My 36mm Raymond Weil goes very well with shirt and tie but looks like a fashion faux pas with shorts and T-shirt.
I wouldn't wear my 36mm Gold Tissot on the beach - my father did but he was in his 50s / 60s. I'm in my 30s and would look like a young fogey wearing a gold 36mm watch on the beach. When jogging, swimming, mountain biking, jet skiing etc or simply cooking a BBQ - Deepsea or Seamaster. I think Rolex certainly needed to modernize otherwise it would run out of new customers and only be selling to their long-in-the-tooth customers with one foot in the grave and the other on a banana skin.
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Old 22 May 2009, 11:34 PM   #27
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That's YOUR opinion. My Deepsea is neither tacky or obnoxious thank you very much. I think the larger watches suit those who are more active / sporty in their lifestyle. I have different watches for different occasions. My 36mm Raymond Weil goes very well with shirt and tie but looks like a fashion faux pas with shorts and T-shirt.
I wouldn't wear my 36mm Gold Tissot on the beach - my father did but he was in his 50s / 60s. I'm in my 30s and would look like a young fogey wearing a gold 36mm watch on the beach. When jogging, swimming, mountain biking, jet skiing etc or simply cooking a BBQ - Deepsea or Seamaster. I think Rolex certainly needed to modernize otherwise it would run out of new customers and only be selling to their long-in-the-tooth customers with one foot in the grave and the other on a banana skin.
Bang on my friend! And it is ALL opinion, although some are more commonly shared than others (yours for example makes sense to me, and probably to quite a few people. Still, neither way is 'right' or 'wrong' as you identify )
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Old 22 May 2009, 02:18 PM   #28
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It's amazing that 40mm would even be considered on the smaller side of watches. Once the need for large status symbols subsides (and maybe the current economy will help) people will go back to what's comfortable to wear.
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Old 22 May 2009, 02:43 PM   #29
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Bigger seems to be the trend, which is why this is what I'm upgrading to:
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Old 22 May 2009, 11:41 PM   #30
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Bigger seems to be the trend, which is why this is what I'm upgrading to:
I had been looking for a still shot from that scene in Top Secret ever since this big watch topic started popping up. Good job!
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