New Lange Zeitwerk Release

[Ichiran]

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-...oneygold-lumen





Limited to 200 pieces - Zeitwerk Honeygold "Lumen". Like it?

[Toffeeman]

Nice indeed but will beyond my budget


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[Stranger]

Cool watch and this alloy sure is pretty.

Of course I immediately get fixated on the 5 and the 2 not being aligned...

[cantdrive55]

I’m a definite Lange fan and own several pieces - but for $55k more than the base Zeitwerk, they’re offering honey gold, a lumen dial and twice the power reserve - no complications. I think $145k is high for a time only piece, when compared to the sub $100k time only Richard Lange that has the Pour le Mérite movement, or the complicated Triple Split, for just another $20k more than this reference.

But in the words of the comedian, Dennis Miller: That’s just my opinion - and I could be wrong.

[diracpoint]

Case dimensions seem to be **exactly** the same as the Gen 1 Zeitwerks (41.9 mm dia, 12.6 mm thick).

It’s a nice watch, but I personally prefer the base matte black dial over a smoky dial.

[QueueCumber]

Originally Posted by cantdrive55

I’m a definite Lange fan and own several pieces - but for $55k more than the base Zeitwerk, they’re offering honey gold, a lumen dial and twice the power reserve - no complications. I think $145k is high for a time only piece, when compared to the sub $100k time only Richard Lange that has the Pour le Mérite movement, or the complicated Triple Split, for just another $20k more than this reference.

But in the words of the comedian, Dennis Miller: That’s just my opinion - and I could be wrong.

Not to mention, the first version of the this Zeitwerk was under 100k and only 100 were made and it was in platinum. Sort of insulting, but I haven't really been into much of anything Lange has put out lately except the Zeitwerk (which was an albatross to sell without huge losses until COVID-19), and the Odysseus is horrendously homely looking to me, so no big loss.

Pour le Mérite Tourbillon 1st releases were gorgeous, but what a bath we who bought the rose gold model took... rofl

[Ichiran]

Originally Posted by enjoythemusic

I'm waiting for it to turn into Fight Club

Originally Posted by GreenLantern

What a joke.

Mike from Watchbox said he is receiving multiple texts/calls/emails from those customers who have bundled the Zeitwerk Lumen with tourbillon, datograph, and repeaters.

The silent auction is real. :)

[vh2k]

Originally Posted by Ichiran

Mike from Watchbox said he is receiving multiple texts/calls/emails from those customers who have bundled the Zeitwerk Lumen with tourbillon, datograph, and repeaters.

He really blasted ALS for this bundling because WB has been working hard (gobbling up pieces) to drive long-term secondary market prices higher. Last thing he wants is hundreds of customers dumping ALS quickly to fund a grand complication purchase. His suggestion is to reward the VIPs who have already spent $1MM on ALS — as that keeps short-term secondary values stable or increasing. Fair point.

[GreenLantern]

Originally Posted by Ichiran

Mike from Watchbox said he is receiving multiple texts/calls/emails from those customers who have bundled the Zeitwerk Lumen with tourbillon, datograph, and repeaters.

The silent auction is real. :)

Originally Posted by vh2k

He really blasted ALS for this bundling because WB has been working hard (gobbling up pieces) to drive long-term secondary market prices higher. Last thing he wants is hundreds of customers dumping ALS quickly to fund a grand complication purchase. His suggestion is to reward the VIPs who have already spent $1MM on ALS — as that keeps short-term secondary values stable or increasing. Fair point.

Feels like ALS is three years behind the times now (with respect to this bundling strategy).

Maybe they didn't get the memo that Patek and Rolex did this 3-5 years ago.

[yoast]

I like it but way too expensive. Also wonder why they put a screwhead on the left and what looks to be a jewel on the right hand side between the power reserve and the sub seconds hand? My OCD has a hard time dealing with this.

[HiBoost]

Originally Posted by yoast

I like it but way too expensive. Also wonder why they put a screwhead on the left and what looks to be a jewel on the right hand side between the power reserve and the sub seconds hand? My OCD has a hard time dealing with this.

Ha! I wonder this same thing every time I see it. Love the brand, and like the model in spite of this, but it does stand out like a sore thumb.

[WatchEater666]

Emailed to purchase. Yolo.

[enjoythemusic]

Looks like the big lume theme is making its way to ALS. I love it, sexy movement of course, yet agree Richemont's nearly bi-weekly limited edition release pricing is creeping quite a bit higher for all their company-owned brands like ALS, Panerai, etc. Imho it's a $70k timepiece at best, but that's jmho and am sure they'll sell every one at $145k.

[Gotwire]

To be able to apply for the piece they request you purchase a high complication piece to buff up your application. Meaning bundling with a piece that costs close to or exceeds $200k. Makes the Rolex buy jewelry stuff look like nothing.

[Patton250]

Originally Posted by Gotwire

To be able to apply for the piece they request you purchase a high complication piece to buff up your application. Meaning bundling with a piece that costs close to or exceeds $200k. Makes the Rolex buy jewelry stuff look like nothing.

You ain’t kidding. And at least Rolex doesn’t tank in value like ALS does. I love ALS and might pick up a new one next week but dang they are over priced. The current market proves that.

[edhahn44]

Originally Posted by Patton250

You ain’t kidding. And at least Rolex doesn’t tank in value like ALS does. I love ALS and might pick up a new one next week but dang they are over priced. The current market proves that.

You can bet this one will not tank in value.


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[Patton250]

Originally Posted by edhahn44

You can bet this one will not tank in value.


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Agreed

[HMHM]

Originally Posted by edhahn44

You can bet this one will not tank in value.


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I disagree. I do believe if the market tanks like in 2008, then most watches will go down in demand and value as well. ALS is a very niche brand. Outside of the watch community, very little people know about ALS. And they need to be careful about the way they go about with their business. I don’t think ALS has the same pedigree/recognition as Patek or AP to pull off the snobbish attitude of “buy 200k of our junks before we sell you a Odysseus or Zeitwerk”.

[mbalmz]

Originally Posted by HMHM

I disagree. I do believe if the market tanks like in 2008, then most watches will go down in demand and value as well. ALS is a very niche brand. Outside of the watch community, very little people know about ALS. And they need to be careful about the way they go about with their business. I don’t think ALS has the same pedigree/recognition as Patek or AP to pull off the snobbish attitude of “buy 200k of our junks before we sell you a Odysseus or Zeitwerk”.

ALS makes ~5,000 watches a year; PP and AP probably each make 10x that.

not remotely comparable brands.

[David5807]

Nice

[uniqueMR]

Interesting.
Price is high. Should have place it around $100k.

[raclaims]

2 years before expected delivery

That’s a long wait

[dchang81]

Originally Posted by raclaims

2 years before expected delivery

That’s a long wait

what's the point of even announcing that far ahead

[enjoythemusic]

Originally Posted by dchang81

what's the point of even announcing that far ahead

Additional sales for the privilege to put a deposit down... Richemont is taking advantage of the easy money. From a business standpoint to maximize all aspects as much as possible, it makes sense.

[Reign]

Originally Posted by enjoythemusic

Additional sales for the privilege to put a deposit down... Richemont is taking advantage of the easy money. From a business standpoint to maximize all aspects as much as possible, it makes sense.

Nailed it. Helps Richemont with their 3-year EPS projections too. The perils of being publicly owned

[brandrea]

It looks lovely but it’s priced way out of my league.

[Yobrooks]

Beautiful new version, love the lume. This will likely go for double in the grey market, imo.

[WatchEater666]

I agree it’s not cheap but with PP and AP charging insane sums for machine finished watches, maybe ALS is the wrong brand to call overpriced :)

[enjoythemusic]

Originally Posted by WatchEater666

I agree it’s not cheap but with PP and AP charging insane sums for machine finished watches, maybe ALS is the wrong brand to call overpriced :)

ALS does put some extra effort PP and AP don't in those companys' more mass-produced models. I'd rather have an ALS over the typical AP or PP of course.

Then again there's a voice whispering MB&F is the next go-to for top-end horological creativity.

Maybe the real question is, and everyone has their own answer, does your collection need yet another typical-cased standard layout movement? Does the ALS master something truly unique and horologically significant (to some extent)? Maybe. At $140,000 it had better impress imho as the landscape has much to offer at that price level.

[WatchEater666]

Originally Posted by enjoythemusic

ALS does put some extra effort PP and AP don't in those companys' more mass-produced models. I'd rather have an ALS over the typical AP or PP of course.

Then again there's a voice whispering MB&F is the next go-to for top-end horological creativity.

Maybe the real question is, and everyone has their own answer, does your collection need yet another typical-cased standard layout movement? Does the ALS master something truly unique and horologically significant (to some extent)? Maybe. At $140,000 it had better impress imho as the landscape has much to offer at that price level.

Yeah I mean $100k is Gauthier/Kari range where you objectively get an impeccable watch.

The lumen however, is definitely something you could resell for over MSRP if you got bored :) At that price, it's still a no brainer. Only two have ever hit auction in the previous version.