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Old 1 December 2022, 07:12 PM   #1
buddy13
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luxury tool watch diver for next year....advice for a Rolex less man...

Lately I'm thinking about the possibility, that next year, I let go 2 or 3 nice watches and buy myself one 'luxury' dive watch, but still a capable diver, I can where everywhere.

I've shortlisted my three candidates

- Rolex 124060
- Seiko SLGA001
- GO Sea Q (small date)

I have been playing the pros and cons of each for some time in my mind.

Ok so the Rolex. The watch I really want (I think) is the Rolex 124060 But there are so many difficulties with getting that watch. I'm not interested in competing with insta posers, in fact if I paid extra I am very sure I would hate the watch for that fact, so will never pay a tenner over retail . I'm not even sure it's worth it's retail price, but with resale being so good, I'm happy to try . Happened to me with the 14060M and the 114060. I still very much wish I kept the 14060M for it's classic, no nonsense approach that to date it has not been done again, but at 4K Euro I still doubted it's value as a watch to wear, use and enjoy everywhere and not as an investment. Especially considering an SBDX001 was 1K Euro and a Bond SMP was 1.5K Euro at the time. I wish I knew better .

The 114060 I bought new, which I thought would prove to be an upgrade to the 14060M, did nothing with it's blocky case. I loved it's clasp, blue lume and maxi dial but the case was too squarish for me and I ended up losing over 1K Euro selling it a year or so later. The 124040 solves this issue and as one who rotates watches daily I have really come to appreciate the 70hr PR on my Pelagos, so that would be superb feature on the 3230. Question is, will it ever be possible to buy a Sub at retail from an AD in the near future ?

I really like the SLGA001 and would like to try my first spring drive, one arguable can't do much better than the 9RA5. I have tried the 600m hobnail GS while on holiday and was mesmerized. One only issue is the large diameter of the case and thickness. How I wish it was 42mm. It's finish, dark blue dial, 5 day PR and exclusivity are hard to ignore though.

The last watch I have been seriously eyeing lately is the Sea Q (not the panorama date). I am not sure bout the large numerals, but I like basically everything else about it. Oh, and I really couldn't choose between the blue or green dial. I would like to learn more about how reliable and easy to service the 39-11 Caliber is and also about it's design, but info is hard to come by online.

I know this is a Rolex forum, but I know there are many of open minded people with many brands in your collection, so would like to hear about your opinions on all these watches and also your thoughts
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Old 1 December 2022, 08:08 PM   #2
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I'm a fan of Seiko divers and Grand Seiko watches, and own multiples of both, but I'm not a fan of GS divers, including the SLGA001.

I would consider a high-end Prospex divers like the SNR029: https://watchesbysjx.com/2020/03/sei...29-review.html
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Old 1 December 2022, 08:57 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Old Expat Beast View Post
I'm a fan of Seiko divers and Grand Seiko watches, and own multiples of both, but I'm not a fan of GS divers, including the SLGA001.

I would consider a high-end Prospex divers like the SNR029: https://watchesbysjx.com/2020/03/sei...29-review.html
any particular reason that you prefer seiko diver and not GS diver?
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Old 1 December 2022, 09:05 PM   #4
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any particular reason that you prefer seiko diver and not GS diver?
None of the Grand Seiko diver designs appeals to me much, and while Seiko has a strong dive watch heritage going back to the Mid 1960s with many great designs and styles, Grand Seiko's 62-year history has only relatively recently featured dive watches (since 2008, I think).
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Old 1 December 2022, 10:34 PM   #5
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None of the Grand Seiko diver designs appeals to me much, and while Seiko has a strong dive watch heritage going back to the Mid 1960s with many great designs and styles, Grand Seiko's 62-year history has only relatively recently featured dive watches (since 2008, I think).
But don't forget that GS has the might of Seiko behind them.

So any Seiko technology/history is of course very available to any GS diver :).

The only thing I don't like about them is the size. The LX is beautiful, but also very chunky!
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Old 1 December 2022, 11:04 PM   #6
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None of the Grand Seiko diver designs appeals to me much, and while Seiko has a strong dive watch heritage going back to the Mid 1960s with many great designs and styles, Grand Seiko's 62-year history has only relatively recently featured dive watches (since 2008, I think).
thanks Adam, I'm contemplating buying a Japanese diver, your opinion was helpful.
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Old 2 December 2022, 12:03 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Old Expat Beast View Post
I'm a fan of Seiko divers and Grand Seiko watches, and own multiples of both, but I'm not a fan of GS divers, including the SLGA001.

I would consider a high-end Prospex divers like the SNR029: https://watchesbysjx.com/2020/03/sei...29-review.html
I might be inclined to agree with the prospect line being more suited to the high quality tool watch segment, but the OP is seemingly looking at more higher end offerings. To that end I would seriously consider the slga001 over the others.
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Old 1 December 2022, 08:38 PM   #8
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To me, the 124060 is the ideal daily diver that will suit any and all situations.
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Old 1 December 2022, 10:30 PM   #9
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To me, the 124060 is the ideal daily diver that will suit any and all situations.
True. I think it's really adaptable anywhere.

Problem is my one and only local AD (I live on a small island in EU - Malta) just snobs me and replies with a 'Sorry, lists are full' reply. Don't know where to look .
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Old 1 December 2022, 09:03 PM   #10
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The heart wants what it wants. Sounds like the Submariner is the right choice for you
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Old 2 December 2022, 12:29 AM   #11
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The heart wants what it wants. Sounds like the Submariner is the right choice for you
^^^ Listen to this man.

OP you stated: "Ok so the Rolex. The watch I really want (I think) is the Rolex 124060 "


Do not settle. Do not settle. Do not settle...

Otherwise you'll just end up spending money on something you didn't really want. If you can't get the Rolex from an AD put that Seiko/GS cash toward the Grey markup. There is no free lunch no matter how this plays out:
1. Buy useless crap from the AD to get on the mythical "list"
2. Buy watches you don't want, then buy the Rolex later anyway
3. Tear off the band-aid and buy Rolex via Grey

In the end you must pay Market price - there is no other way.
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Old 2 December 2022, 12:36 AM   #12
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^^^ Listen to this man.



OP you stated: "Ok so the Rolex. The watch I really want (I think) is the Rolex 124060 "





Do not settle. Do not settle. Do not settle...



Otherwise you'll just end up spending money on something you didn't really want. If you can't get the Rolex from an AD put that Seiko/GS cash toward the Grey markup. There is no free lunch no matter how this plays out:

1. Buy useless crap from the AD to get on the mythical "list"

2. Buy watches you don't want, then buy the Rolex later anyway

3. Tear off the band-aid and buy Rolex via Grey



In the end you must pay Market price - there is no other way.


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Old 2 December 2022, 12:55 AM   #13
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GO is too large; GS hands would bug me. Go for the rolex.
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Old 2 December 2022, 01:02 AM   #14
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GO is too large; GS hands would bug me. Go for the rolex.
The Rolex is 41mm and the Glashutte is 39.5

https://www.wristenthusiast.com/late...-original-seaq

Quote:
The SeaQ is a 39.5mm watch that wears a little bit smaller. This is due to the lack of crown guard and the slim case, which I prefer. Because of the slim case, definitely slimmer than a Submariner or Sea-Dweller, the SeaQ wears very comfortably and looks good on both larger and smaller wrists.
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Old 2 December 2022, 12:56 AM   #15
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While it seems you cannot fall in love with previous iterations of the Sub, you are right that the new model is a perfect combination of the things you liked in both previous models.

I love the Grand Seiko looks but you are right. It is too damn bug to be practical. Add an inch to every left sleeve on your shirts if you buy that one.

The GO is a fine watch but the dial looks like something you would see on a trendy fashion watch.
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Old 3 December 2022, 01:27 AM   #16
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^^^ Listen to this man.

OP you stated: "Ok so the Rolex. The watch I really want (I think) is the Rolex 124060 "


Do not settle. Do not settle. Do not settle...

Otherwise you'll just end up spending money on something you didn't really want. If you can't get the Rolex from an AD put that Seiko/GS cash toward the Grey markup. There is no free lunch no matter how this plays out:
1. Buy useless crap from the AD to get on the mythical "list"
2. Buy watches you don't want, then buy the Rolex later anyway
3. Tear off the band-aid and buy Rolex via Grey

In the end you must pay Market price - there is no other way.
I’m going to echo this sentiment. I recently posted about a long journey to get my 124060. I made an interim purchase thinking it would scratch the itch while I waited for my turn at an AD, but it didn’t. I ultimately went grey because I was tired of waiting and just wanted the watch, and I couldn’t be happier!

If you truly are leaning towards the 124060 and deep down you want the icon, do not talk yourself into something else. You will end up disappointed.
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Old 5 December 2022, 12:58 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by amh View Post
^^^ Listen to this man.

OP you stated: "Ok so the Rolex. The watch I really want (I think) is the Rolex 124060 "


Do not settle. Do not settle. Do not settle...

Otherwise you'll just end up spending money on something you didn't really want. If you can't get the Rolex from an AD put that Seiko/GS cash toward the Grey markup. There is no free lunch no matter how this plays out:
1. Buy useless crap from the AD to get on the mythical "list"
2. Buy watches you don't want, then buy the Rolex later anyway
3. Tear off the band-aid and buy Rolex via Grey

In the end you must pay Market price - there is no other way.
100% spot-on advice. This is the truth, you can either discover it on your own, or listen to the wisdom of other members that also understand the Truth.
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Old 1 December 2022, 10:50 PM   #18
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Sounds like the 124060 is "the one" that you want OP, so it's best not to settle for anything else IMO. I think you just need to dig in - either time-wise with the wait from an AD, or financially from a grey.

While I really like GS as a whole, their divers do nothing for me at all aesthetically, plus I find the clasps are huge and clunky as hell.

Personally, out of those options though I'd be sorely tempted to go with the Sea-Q. I have the Panorama Date version myself and it's stunning. I've only recently picked it up, so I can't speak for reliability yet, and I already know that ALL servicing will be done by GO.... forever! It's definitely a "higher end" piece horologically speaking IMO, but if your heart's set on a 124060, nothing else will do.
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Old 1 December 2022, 10:58 PM   #19
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I would choose a Seiko diver as a daily dive watch. Probably a turtle for me. But OP mentioned luxury dive watch.
I would choose the GS SLGA461. Spring drive. or the SLGA015 5 day evolution 9, 5 day spring drive. .5 spd. and lovely dial. Both sit quite well on the wrist and despite the size they are extremely comfortable.
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Old 4 December 2022, 08:51 AM   #20
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Sounds like the 124060 is "the one" that you want OP, so it's best not to settle for anything else IMO.



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Old 2 December 2022, 12:12 AM   #21
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This is a Rolex forum.

Objectively the Glashutte is a fantastic choice and would be what I would get of the choices you mentioned.

https://monochrome-watches.com/glash...ue-dial-price/

https://www.ablogtowatch.com/hands-o...-seaq-39-50mm/
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Old 2 December 2022, 01:25 AM   #22
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I had the GO you are considering. Lume was poor and the bezel was too taut to turn without a lot of pressure. Bracelet is clearly not up to Rolex spec. The actual dial design is great and the satin finish aspects to case are outstanding. Size was perfect for my 6.5-inch wrist.
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Old 2 December 2022, 01:38 AM   #23
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I can not recommend the 124060 enough. I have also had the 14060M and the 114060. The 124060 is seriously in another league. Sometimes when I look at my wrist, I think I'm looking at my 14060M....the new case profile is absolutely amazing. If you paid over retail for the 124060, you will still feel like you didn't pay enough for it. Just get it and don't look back.

I love GS, I have one, but I do not like their divers. They are in no way a daily wear piece like the Sub.

The SeaQ I'm sure is a fine watch, but you are going to wish you got the Sub.

There are no longer any compromises with the Sub. With the 14060M; the rattly, light bracelet was a sticking point for some. With the 114060; the square case was a sticking point (definitely for me, the reason I moved on from it). All that is fixed with the 124060.

In case I wasn't clear. Get the Sub.
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Old 3 December 2022, 01:03 AM   #24
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I can not recommend the 124060 enough. I have also had the 14060M and the 114060. The 124060 is seriously in another league. Sometimes when I look at my wrist, I think I'm looking at my 14060M....the new case profile is absolutely amazing. If you paid over retail for the 124060, you will still feel like you didn't pay enough for it. Just get it and don't look back.

I love GS, I have one, but I do not like their divers. They are in no way a daily wear piece like the Sub.

The SeaQ I'm sure is a fine watch, but you are going to wish you got the Sub.

There are no longer any compromises with the Sub. With the 14060M; the rattly, light bracelet was a sticking point for some. With the 114060; the square case was a sticking point (definitely for me, the reason I moved on from it). All that is fixed with the 124060.

In case I wasn't clear. Get the Sub.
Seems like we've been in the same boat then !

Yes, I am pretty sure that the 124060 would stick with me. But the damn waiting list, 'sorry cant put you on the list' snobbery and used watch prices over retail are a bit much for me to stomach. I'll wait a few months and see what happens. I'm hoping I can find an AD who takes my name, then if it has to be, I will get the call

PS: I see you like Ducati. Just a couple weeks ago I was in their factory in Borgo Panigale and also visited the musuem . I have been considering trading in my Tiger 800 for a Desert X
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Old 3 December 2022, 01:37 AM   #25
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Seems like we've been in the same boat then !

Yes, I am pretty sure that the 124060 would stick with me. But the damn waiting list, 'sorry cant put you on the list' snobbery and used watch prices over retail are a bit much for me to stomach. I'll wait a few months and see what happens. I'm hoping I can find an AD who takes my name, then if it has to be, I will get the call

PS: I see you like Ducati. Just a couple weeks ago I was in their factory in Borgo Panigale and also visited the musuem . I have been considering trading in my Tiger 800 for a Desert X
For sure. I've been through every modern Sub variant starting with the 14060. Dates, Subs and even some SeaDwellers. The 124060 is the one.

I do love Ducati. I have the bike in my avatar, the 1199 Panigale and a Monster 1100 EVO. I would love to visit the factory and museum one day. I love the DesertX. If the seat height wasn't an issue for me, I'd have one. I'm short.
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Old 4 December 2022, 12:09 AM   #26
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For sure. I've been through every modern Sub variant starting with the 14060. Dates, Subs and even some SeaDwellers. The 124060 is the one.

I do love Ducati. I have the bike in my avatar, the 1199 Panigale and a Monster 1100 EVO. I would love to visit the factory and museum one day. I love the DesertX. If the seat height wasn't an issue for me, I'd have one. I'm short.

I hope to add a 124060 next year

I like both your bikes. I prefer your Panigale Desmo twin to the never V4. I love the Tiger but I think I'll have a Desert X someday sooner or later.
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Old 2 December 2022, 01:46 AM   #27
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I highly recommend you buy the watch you want, but if you cannot stomach paying market for a 124060, which by the way it not that far above retail, I would add Tudor to you list for consideration. Is Tudor luxury? Well, I would say it's luxury as much as GO and definitely more than Seiko, and IMO a superior watch.

If you don't like big, consider the BB58 either black or blue or Pelagos FXD.
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Old 3 December 2022, 01:04 AM   #28
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I highly recommend you buy the watch you want, but if you cannot stomach paying market for a 124060, which by the way it not that far above retail, I would add Tudor to you list for consideration. Is Tudor luxury? Well, I would say it's luxury as much as GO and definitely more than Seiko, and IMO a superior watch.

If you don't like big, consider the BB58 either black or blue or Pelagos FXD.
I already have the Blue Pelagos 42 and love it .
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Old 3 December 2022, 01:06 AM   #29
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Thanks to all for your replies

I really like reading other owner's opinions. ?Better than any review or commercial.

I'm swayed towards the 124060. There is no rush. I am hoping that next year I will be able to find an AD that will put me on the waiting list.
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Old 3 December 2022, 01:10 AM   #30
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if you don't care about hype, the Tudo Black Bay 58 is the best dive watch bar none imo.
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