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Old 28 March 2023, 05:22 AM   #1
WatchEater666
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Cartier Piece Unique?

I talked to Alex C at Cartier, who was AWESOME to deal with versus some of the other brands I have talked to before.


Sent in the following ask:

Santos - Large - White Gold. They made a metal upgrade mandatory, so I couldn't do stainless.
Guilloche dial
12, 3, 6, 9 applied numeral only - breguet style - blued
Cream dial
Blued breguet style hands
Exhibition caseback if possible + happy to pay for better quality finishing

What do you guys think? Any thoughts/tweaks I am missing?

I can't stress how great she was BTW. Huge step up from other brands.
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Old 28 March 2023, 06:22 AM   #2
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gold dial (silvered and rose lathe guilloche) or maybe a rg salmon dial.

i'd be intrigued on any possible rotor customizations too.
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Old 29 March 2023, 11:53 PM   #3
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Quote:
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gold dial (silvered and rose lathe guilloche).
I completely agree on the gold dial that is silvered and then rose lathe guilloche. I think a gold dial that is silvered will look better in various lighting conditions than a cream color dial considering the case will be white metal.

Also, for the OP have you considered the material and color of the applied numerals? Will they be white gold with rhodium coating?
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Old 8 April 2023, 09:00 AM   #4
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I completely agree on the gold dial that is silvered and then rose lathe guilloche. I think a gold dial that is silvered will look better in various lighting conditions than a cream color dial considering the case will be white metal.

Also, for the OP have you considered the material and color of the applied numerals? Will they be white gold with rhodium coating?
Damn Dino, you have me googling "rose lathe" and trying to figure out what you are talking about. The dirty martini doesn't help me elucidate the new term you introduced to my watch life. TBH I appreciate the knowledge you bring to the forum.
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Old 12 April 2023, 04:02 AM   #5
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Damn Dino, you have me googling "rose lathe" and trying to figure out what you are talking about. The dirty martini doesn't help me elucidate the new term you introduced to my watch life. TBH I appreciate the knowledge you bring to the forum.
Hey Boston1, I'm glad I could inspire you to do a little wristwatch research ! Yes, martinis and watches can be a dangerous combination - stay away from online auctions ;) Thanks for the kind words. I occasionally go up to Boston to meet one of my watch buddies and we grab lunch and check out some of the local shops (Shreves, Cartier, RM, Rolex, AP etc). If you PM me an email address, I'll be sure to invite you the next time we meet up.
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Old 12 April 2023, 07:20 AM   #6
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Hey Boston1, I'm glad I could inspire you to do a little wristwatch research ! Yes, martinis and watches can be a dangerous combination - stay away from online auctions ;) Thanks for the kind words. I occasionally go up to Boston to meet one of my watch buddies and we grab lunch and check out some of the local shops (Shreves, Cartier, RM, Rolex, AP etc). If you PM me an email address, I'll be sure to invite you the next time we meet up.

PM sent!


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Old 29 March 2023, 05:34 AM   #7
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They may come back to you and say open case back not allowed. I’d be curious to hear what they say on that—everything else sounds great

Best of luck


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Old 29 March 2023, 05:40 AM   #8
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If you're putting a 6 on the dial I'm assuming you requested no date?
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Old 29 March 2023, 03:13 PM   #9
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Sounds like a great looking watch.
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Old 29 March 2023, 03:18 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sski View Post
gold dial (silvered and rose lathe guilloche) or maybe a rg salmon dial.

i'd be intrigued on any possible rotor customizations too.
Oh man good call on the rotor. Didn’t think of that!

Quote:
Originally Posted by LJubel328 View Post
They may come back to you and say open case back not allowed. I’d be curious to hear what they say on that—everything else sounds great

Best of luck


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Thanks, I am curious too. If they can’t upgrade the finish quality, then I’ll probably pass on the open back. Hoping it won’t be a big deal though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bullies View Post
If you're putting a 6 on the dial I'm assuming you requested no date?
Yup :-)

Quote:
Originally Posted by BLACKHORSE 6 View Post
Sounds like a great looking watch.
Thanks!
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Old 30 March 2023, 01:05 AM   #11
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Are piece unique requests available to everybody with Cartier or is it only for preferred/VIP/well connected clients?

Watch sounds great btw. Keep us posted OP!
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Old 30 March 2023, 02:08 AM   #12
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I completely agree on the gold dial that is silvered and then rose lathe guilloche. I think a gold dial that is silvered will look better in various lighting conditions than a cream color dial considering the case will be white metal.

Also, for the OP have you considered the material and color of the applied numerals? Will they be white gold with rhodium coating?
Yeah I like the idea a lot. Was thinking heat blued numerals, similar to what you see on a Breguet Marine. They look black most of the time, it's a cool effect!

Quote:
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Are piece unique requests available to everybody with Cartier or is it only for preferred/VIP/well connected clients?

Watch sounds great btw. Keep us posted OP!
You need some spend with Cartier, I am not sure how much. I do not think it's anything crazy. Really though, if you email them, they are SUPER honest and good to talk to. The complete opposite of AP or Patek, or any of these other stupid brands :)
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Old 30 March 2023, 02:18 AM   #13
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Sounds like it will be a beautiful watch. I wonder how long Cartier will take to make this?
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Old 30 March 2023, 04:41 AM   #14
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Sounds like it will be a beautiful watch. I wonder how long Cartier will take to make this?
I've been told one year for NSOs
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Old 30 March 2023, 06:29 AM   #15
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Sounds like it will be a beautiful watch. I wonder how long Cartier will take to make this?
The people I talked to that have had one made said that it was ~12 - 20 months depending on what it was.
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Old 8 April 2023, 03:15 AM   #16
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The quote came back pretty pricey, well into 6 figures.

Decided to retry with a black guilloche dial + applied breguet numerals heated blue at 12, 3 and 9 + heat blued breguet hands.

Hopefully that brings it down a fair bit lol
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Old 8 April 2023, 03:50 AM   #17
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The quote came back pretty pricey, well into 6 figures.

Decided to retry with a black guilloche dial + applied breguet numerals heated blue at 12, 3 and 9 + heat blued breguet hands.

Hopefully that brings it down a fair bit lol
Did they say why it was so pricey? Any pushback on the open caseback?
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Old 8 April 2023, 09:06 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by WatchEater666 View Post
The quote came back pretty pricey, well into 6 figures.

Decided to retry with a black guilloche dial + applied breguet numerals heated blue at 12, 3 and 9 + heat blued breguet hands.

Hopefully that brings it down a fair bit lol
It sounds like an intriguing version of a true icon but I am sincerely trying to comprehend the 6 figures pricing for a specialized dial and numerals. IMHO, the price would be justified if there is an open back with hand finished anglage.
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Old 8 April 2023, 03:35 PM   #19
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It sounds like an intriguing version of a true icon but I am sincerely trying to comprehend the 6 figures pricing for a specialized dial and numerals. IMHO, the price would be justified if there is an open back with hand finished anglage.
5 figures is Mb&f or Gauthier $. Would be a pass for me :-)
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Old 9 April 2023, 02:41 AM   #20
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5 figures is Mb&f or Gauthier $. Would be a pass for me :-)

You mean 6 figures is mb&f and RG?

I am not throwing down 100k for a Cartier;


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Old 9 April 2023, 06:29 AM   #21
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You mean 6 figures is mb&f and RG?

I am not throwing down 100k for a Cartier;


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Yes! Same boat here.
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Old 9 April 2023, 12:23 PM   #22
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I am not throwing down 100k for a Cartier;


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Only way I'm throwing down that kind of money on a Cartier, it better be a platinum skeleton Crash.
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Old 20 April 2023, 10:59 PM   #23
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You mean 6 figures is mb&f and RG?

I am not throwing down 100k for a Cartier;


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Someone correct me if I’m wrong, but I believe if you get a full metal bracelet, then they charge you waaaaaay more. An article I read on the new Normale said Cartier was saying 2.5 times msrp for people who inquired about a piece unique on bracelet.

However, I was told that if it’s just a dial color/guilloche/numerals/cabechon etc it’s like 15% more than the standard model assuming you stay with a gold and not platinum. However, I was told this about 2 years ago so I have no idea if this has gone up now due to how popular Cartier has become.
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Old 17 April 2023, 12:50 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by WatchEater666 View Post
The quote came back pretty pricey, well into 6 figures.

Decided to retry with a black guilloche dial + applied breguet numerals heated blue at 12, 3 and 9 + heat blued breguet hands.

Hopefully that brings it down a fair bit lol
Any updates?
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Old 17 April 2023, 01:36 PM   #25
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Nothing yet
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Old 12 April 2023, 04:11 AM   #26
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Good luck. Sounds amazing
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Old 22 April 2023, 12:41 PM   #27
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Following this thread with interest.
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Old 25 April 2023, 08:33 AM   #28
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I still haven't heard back from them.
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Old 13 July 2023, 02:44 PM   #29
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I still haven't heard back from them.
Bring this thread back after a couple of months.

Any word from Cartier on pricing for the second piece unique concept?
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Old 16 July 2023, 04:56 PM   #30
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Bring this thread back after a couple of months.

Any word from Cartier on pricing for the second piece unique concept?
Nope. She did text to say she is waiting to hear back though.

Not really 100% I’m still super interested though lol
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