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1 November 2023, 12:29 AM | #1 |
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Sweet Interior Angles
Some like interior angles, some don't care, some dislike them. An interior angle doesn't improve the chronometry of a movement, nor make a movement more complicated. Greats like George Daniels was notoriously focused on a watch's mechanics as opposed to "artificial styling".
Yet I love interior angles. When I first started watch collecting, I bought watches with aesthetics that appealed to me - chiefly the dial, then the case. Over the years, I was drawn to watches with complications. Now, I begin to appreciate hand-finishing more, and one of the first things I look for during a new watch release is sharp interior angles in the movement. I appreciate the time and effort by artisans to make the anglage perfect. Below are some movements with beautifully carved interior angles that I enjoyed staring at. None is mine unfortunately. Please feel free to add those you like. From top: RRCCII, RRCC, Krayon Anywhere, Grand Seiko Spring Drive 9R02, Bexei Dignitas Pure “Project XX”, Kari Voutilainen Observatoire, Philippe Dufour Simplicity, Romain Gauthier Logical One, Simon Brette Chronomètre Artisans and Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30° Technique |
1 November 2023, 12:47 AM | #2 |
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Fantastic pictures, I especially like the Greubel Forsey. Don't know what it is specifically, but their finishing as a whole just hits the right spot for me.
I think Philippe Narbel deserves a spot on your list as well - his Skel-1 boasts an incredible 211 interior angles, at least according to Revolution. |
1 November 2023, 12:57 AM | #3 |
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Absolutely. He has done a lot of work for the watch industry where finishing and interior angles are concerned. Below is the back of the Skel-1.
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1 November 2023, 12:51 AM | #4 |
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Awesome, like a modern Holy Trinity... only even better than that :)
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1 November 2023, 01:24 AM | #5 |
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Beautiful photos, thanks for sharing.
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1 November 2023, 01:43 AM | #6 |
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I wouldn't buy a watch purely because of the # of internal angles, but it does bother me a lot when a brand clearly sidesteps doing them the way Patek does...
For higher end products, it comes across as lazy. And in my opinion, anything time only above ~$20k - $30k should at least have some well done anglage. |
1 November 2023, 02:57 AM | #7 |
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Awesome looking movement. A lot of amazing craftsmanship inside
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1 November 2023, 04:30 AM | #8 |
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very nice, thanks for posting
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1 November 2023, 11:13 AM | #9 |
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Great post, been a lot of debate around interior angles lately when it comes to movement finishing. I wonder whether at some point, machines will be able to do finishing on this level with that sharp finish ending at a point vs simple curved, rounding off.
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2 November 2023, 05:33 AM | #10 | |
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Quote:
I appreciate that Dufour and GF (and others, of course) are passing on their skills to a new generation so things aren't hidden and then lost. P.S. Greubel Forsey is bringing out a watch which will have a new level of hand finishing. That's all I know about it, butnlooking forward to it. |
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1 November 2023, 11:29 AM | #11 |
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Good point gm58. Another possibility is that China does as the USA did with pocket watch production back in the day. Of course the fugazi market does make very impressive basic Pateks, which kinda shows how easy their pieces are to produce. My point being you don't see that with Kari V, RR, MB&F, etc, perhaps because it takes true talent and effort.
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1 November 2023, 12:19 PM | #12 |
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Beautiful shots. I’ve been vocal that it’s not the end all be all for me but much like another round I’m not likely to say no!
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1 November 2023, 02:09 PM | #13 |
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I shamelessly are a movement snob and these are beautiful.
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1 November 2023, 08:15 PM | #14 |
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Parmigiani used to do it good 20 years ago.
Their Ionica 8-days is pretty nice Not as good as the watches in the original post but for being a brand that makes a few K pieces per years it's definitely good And Today Florent Lecomte makes exceptional watches, de creates the movement but to give it a perfect finishing he got help from Philippe Narbel. And imo these are among the best I've EVER seen. Yes, imo better than most that cost 100-200 K this is the front of the watch in case you don't know it
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1 November 2023, 08:26 PM | #15 | |
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Quote:
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1 November 2023, 09:27 PM | #16 |
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Agreed these look nice although absolutely don't justify the price tag on some of those (regardless if it's hand finished).
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2 November 2023, 03:25 AM | #17 |
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That is when guys like Torsti Laine come into play.
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2 November 2023, 05:30 AM | #18 |
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3 November 2023, 12:07 AM | #19 |
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3 November 2023, 01:08 AM | #20 |
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This is Vincent Deprez Tourbillon which I think has lovely interior angles too. Unfortunately they are all sold.
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3 November 2023, 02:36 AM | #21 | |
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Armin is incredible value. I am surprised they aren't more popular. The new models are really well designed too. I guess we are seeing way more Gravity Equal Force models pop up everywhere now. |
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3 November 2023, 04:07 AM | #22 |
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I’m also surprised about them not being more popular. Excellent watches at a great price. I sadly don’t have one in my collection but it’s more due to a limitation of funds than anything else.
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3 November 2023, 02:42 PM | #23 |
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This thread is excellent.
Great shots neighbor. I've tried this piece on a few times. It is so well made. I'd love to own a Armin soon.
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3 November 2023, 08:07 PM | #24 |
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Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst
A special Lange featuring a movement with dozens of interior angles and 3 hand engraved bridges. Not to forget a mesmerising dial combing black enamel and black polishing for a truly amazing show as it is turned in the light. https://youtu.be/cfKbiMj0uJE?si=1VGmlUKUQJNqtiwa |
27 September 2024, 12:20 AM | #25 |
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Sharing some of my favourite macro shots of the 1967. In the first pic the light reflects off the carving of a spoke of the golden gear wheel.. there are sharp carvings on the bridges and dead-beat mechanism. The shock is hidden underneath the balance cap jewel.
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27 September 2024, 12:38 AM | #26 |
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Rémy Cools Tourbillon Souscription. These carvings are sexy.
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27 September 2024, 12:42 AM | #27 |
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Origine. Curvy.
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27 September 2024, 12:48 AM | #28 |
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This is art.
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27 September 2024, 01:31 AM | #29 |
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Okay, it's time to trot out my very silly critique of being a fan of internal angles (keep in mind, I am also a fan). This is meant to stir thinking, but in a lighthearted way.
Ready? Here goes: People who get obsessed with internal angles are like guys who get obsessed with women's underwear! Why? Internal angles are primarily a signifier, a stand-in for what we really want, which is genuine hand finishing and craftsmanship. Women's underwear is a stand-in for the women themselves. In either case, the signifier may be beautiful on its own. But it's better to be reminded of what it is that is the antecedent, primary value, be it the work of a craftswoman, or the affection of the craftswoman herself. Today's silly post brought to you by my memory of reading an obituary of an English philosopher of ethics who also had a ladies' underwear fetish. Keep in mind, with situations like Patek's abandonment of hand finishing (and the Geneva Seal, which requires it) in its lower and mid-tier models, a lack of internal angles is a very useful sign compared to, say, an entry level Breguet 5177, which keeps two internal angles as a sign for those who know. In other cases, it's not so useful! Consider the whole finishing and then consider finishing in the context of the whole watch! |
27 September 2024, 02:18 AM | #30 | ||
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Nothing wrong with my $300 Timex that looks a lot like a Patek Philippe (dial and style). Very accurate movement too, plus the Timex has a higher waterproof rating than ALL Patek timepieces. Why pay more? But when you step up something like a RR, MB&F, etc, we know the reality of what is possible versus what is just passable back in the 1960s when the Marketing Campaign of Trinity somehow became folklure. Quote:
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