1803 WG guidance needed!

[Caaj]

Hi there!

Looking to buy my first Rolex and I am also new to the Rolex forum so go easy on me! :)
I have been looking at the 1803 WG but only the head as they are a bit pricey with the president bracelet. I don’t my the leather straps but I am afraid that I want it on bracelet later on.

If so, would it be wrong to put on a steel oyster bracelet temporarily until I can afford a WG president bracelet (was an oyster bracelet even an option for the 1803?) If so, which oyster bracelet would fit an 1803?

Thank you for your help!!

[steversaurus]

Before you buy without the bracelet, keep in mind that finding a loose WG bracelet is very difficult. They really don't come up too often.

[Toronto Soup King]

I have an 1803/9 myself, bought from Jacek (Tropical Watch, although he was under another name then, this was pre-Blueberry-crisis). If you think you'll wear it on bracelet, buy it on bracelet, you won't find a loose sixty-year-old bracelet easily or cheaply.

Bear in mind if the one you get has been worn much at all, the rhodium will be wearing off on the bracelet and needing replacement. My watch is currently on strap for this reason

[Mark020]

Originally Posted by Toronto Soup King

I have an 1803/9 myself, bought from Jacek (Tropical Watch, although he was under another name then, this was pre-Blueberry-crisis). If you think you'll wear it on bracelet, buy it on bracelet, you won't find a loose sixty-year-old bracelet easily or cheaply.

Bear in mind if the one you get has been worn much at all, the rhodium will be wearing off on the bracelet and needing replacement. My watch is currently on strap for this reason

Blueberry crisis? What was that?

[77T]

Buying as head only is false economy if you intend to get a WG president bracelet later.

Head only is a fine plan if you know you'll use a strap the entire time you have the 1803.


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[Caaj]

Makes sense, thank you! I think the 1803/9 looks wonderful one a strap so I will buy it with the intention to go strap only.

A steel oyster or jubilee is a complete no go, right?

[77T]

Originally Posted by Caaj

Makes sense, thank you! I think the 1803/9 looks wonderful one a strap so I will buy it with the intention to go strap only.

A steel oyster or jubilee is a complete no go, right?

For me it's a no go on SS...
Alligator strap and a period correct WG Rolex made buckle is fine.

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[KY..]

Originally Posted by Caaj

A steel oyster or jubilee is a complete no go, right?

You do not want a harder steel bracelet creating unnecessary wear to the lugs of a soft gold case.
Plus, that would just be wrong anyway…

[miamiclay]

Originally Posted by Toronto Soup King

the rhodium will be wearing off on the bracelet and needing replacement. My watch is currently on strap for this reason

There’s no rhodium plating on Rolex white gold - At least, not for a long time (since the early 1950s?)

Originally Posted by Caaj

A steel oyster or jubilee is a complete no go, right?

I think you would probably have problems with the bracelet’s end links fitting to the DD case. Worse, you would definitely have steel wearing against gold somewhere in the end link / spring bar / case connections. Even if you got white gold DD spring bars and just considered them sacrificial wear items, I think the steel end links would likely chew up the DD’s gold case pretty badly.

BTW, even with a strap, you should make sure that your 1803/9 has the correct gold spring bars, as steel ones are reputed to waller out the lug holes in the softer 18K case.

It would be best to post some clear, close-up photos here of the watch you are considering, before buying. The experts here are astonishingly generous with their time and knowledge, and there are a lot of DD details which only an experienced eye is likely to catch.

Finally, congratulations on a great choice! 1803/9s can run the gamut from fun and flashy to stealth wealth - I love mine.
.

[crowncollection]

Originally Posted by miamiclay

There’s no rhodium plating on Rolex white gold - At least, not for a long time (since the early 1950s?)



I think you would probably have problems with the bracelet’s end links fitting to the DD case. Worse, you would definitely have steel wearing against gold somewhere in the end link / spring bar / case connections. Even if you got white gold DD spring bars and just considered them sacrificial wear items, I think the steel end links would likely chew up the DD’s gold case pretty badly.

BTW, even with a strap, you should make sure that your 1803/9 has the correct gold spring bars, as steel ones are reputed to waller out the lug holes in the softer 18K case.

It would be best to post some clear, close-up photos here of the watch you are considering, before buying. The experts here are astonishingly generous with their time and knowledge, and there are a lot of DD details which only an experienced eye is likely to catch.

Finally, congratulations on a great choice! 1803/9s can run the gamut from fun and flashy to stealth wealth - I love mine.
.

Nice watches Clay.


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[Caaj]

Great input. It makes a lot of sense that I should avoid having hard steel metal destroy the softer gold over time.

I am heading to Tokyo in August and was thinking about buying the watch there, so sharing pictures might be hard. Anything I should be aware for when looking at vintage watches?
And I’ll make sure to post pictures if I go for a chrono24 one!

Thank you so much for the help guys!

[miamiclay]

Originally Posted by Caaj

I am heading to Tokyo in August and was thinking about buying the watch there, so sharing pictures might be hard.

It appears that the yen is currently weak against the krone, so that could work in your favor. OTOH, I definitely don’t know anything about tax treaties between the two countries, or about Danish tariffs on vintage gold watches, which could make a big difference. I’ve had good experience buying from Japanese sellers - In general, I’ve found them to be nicely conservative in their condition assessments. However, obviously the distance would make it more difficult to resolve any problems which might arise after the sale.

Originally Posted by Caaj

[S]haring pictures might be hard. Anything I should be aware for when looking at vintage watches?

Yes - So many, many things! (It’s not by accident that the most common descriptor for the vintage watch market is “a minefield.”) If you want to do all the shopping in person, it’d be a good idea to practice attaching large, clear pics. (A free image compression app is your friend here.) Even then, you may not get answers immediately; it could easily take a few days.

Given all of that, maybe consider a “hybrid” approach? Lots of Japanese sellers list their vintage Rolex on C24. A few weeks before your trip, you might search there first, post pics of your best candidates here, and then complete the sale in person in Tokyo. (This would be tough to do now, as few sellers will want to hold a watch for three more months because you might buy it in August.)

In the meantime, study as many examples as you can, in photos and irl. If you have any occasion to be down in Amsterdam, perhaps visit the crew at Amsterdam Vintage Watches, where you can hold some fine examples and learn about condition.

[KY..]

Originally Posted by Caaj

I am heading to Tokyo in August and was thinking about buying the watch there, so sharing pictures might be hard. Anything I should be aware for when looking at vintage watches?
And I’ll make sure to post pictures if I go for a chrono24 one!

Looking at watches in person is obviously fun.
But remember the old saying about a picture being worth a thousand words.
It is sometimes easier to spot issues with watches when you can compare clear photos.
In person observation can be done with plenty of authentic photos at your disposal to compare it to.
I also carry a minimum 20x loupe with me.

[crowncollection]

Do not use steel ends. You can get solid gold custom ends for a leather strap if you want a better look than a plain leather strap showing a gap between the end links and case. Otherwise good advice above. Buy together it’s cheaper and easier. A good condition wg bracelet will be very hard to find and pricey.


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[Caaj]

Originally Posted by crowncollection

Do not use steel ends. You can get solid gold custom ends for a leather strap if you want a better look than a plain leather strap showing a gap between the end links and case. Otherwise good advice above. Buy together it’s cheaper and easier. A good condition wg bracelet will be very hard to find and pricey.


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How would it look like with solid custom ends and a leather strap? Do you have a picture? Would love to see!

[miamiclay]

Originally Posted by Caaj

How would it look like with solid custom ends and a leather strap? Do you have a picture? Would love to see!

Here’s what David is talking about - Personally, I think they look better without the gold end links (and that’s how Rolex sold new 1803s on a strap), but that’s purely a matter of individual tastes - “Chacun à son goût!”
.

[Caaj]

Indeed some amazing looking watches you have found there Clay!

And thanks everyone for the advice / really great community. I think the best way to go about buying a vintage watch is actually utilizing the expertise here on the forum and go with C24 and share some photos on here. For me, being new to watches, it will be so difficult to buy in person and do the assessment myself, so I trust you guys a lot more!

[Caaj]

I see. Probably prefer the original version too, but definitely something to consider.

Thank you all a lot for the advice! I’ll share some pics of some watches I am looking at in the nearest future!

[Caaj]

I have been looking at this piece. I see some small black dots on the bezel that i have asked the dealer about but still waiting a response.

Would this be a decent piece for around 12.000 USD? I really like the dial.

[zapokee]

Originally Posted by Caaj

I have been looking at this piece. I see some small black dots on the bezel that i have asked the dealer about but still waiting a response.

Would this be a decent piece for around 12.000 USD? I really like the dial.

Looks nice, if it checks out. It's been polished, but the case is still quite strong as evidenced by the still-meaty part under the crown (winder).

12k is a bit steep, but not ridiculous. Probably priced for negotiation.

The spring bars are steel - budget a couple of hundred bucks for replacement white gold ones. You'd also need to check how much damage they have done to the soft-gold spring bar holes.

Good luck!

[swish77]

Originally Posted by Caaj

I have been looking at this piece. I see some small black dots on the bezel that i have asked the dealer about but still waiting a response.

Would this be a decent piece for around 12.000 USD? I really like the dial

Great dial and patina. Over-polished case. Depends how picky you are, but I'd want a fatter case.

[Caaj]

Originally Posted by swish77

Great dial and patina. Over-polished case. Depends how picky you are, but I'd want a fatter case.

Actually not that picky. I reckon I can get it down to around 10k USD and that price seems ok compared to the market for 1803/9. Apparently the WG are a bit more rare and expensive than the YG, so I’ve stopped comparing the price to the YG models.i know most will say that for this price tag I should almost include a bracelet but that’s just not how I see the market for WG models.. but maybe I am wrong?

[zapokee]

Originally Posted by Caaj

Actually not that picky. I reckon I can get it down to around 10k USD and that price seems ok compared to the market for 1803/9. Apparently the WG are a bit more rare and expensive than the YG, so I’ve stopped comparing the price to the YG models.i know most will say that for this price tag I should almost include a bracelet but that’s just not how I see the market for WG models.. but maybe I am wrong?

You wouldn't get a WG 1803 with a bracelet for 10k. More like 20K.

[crowncollection]

Looks like left over polish on the bezel


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[Will866]

Good looking dial. What did you end up doing?