A tale of two GMT watches the TOOL vs the JEWEL

[Brich436]

TOOL (EXP2) VS. JEWEL (GMT MASTER 2)

After the arrival of the BLNR (my latest addition to the inventory) I couldn’t help but notice how different it was from my 14-year-old 16570 Explorer 2 polar. The BLNR really seems to be one of the fanciest steel sports models that Rolex makes, and I love it. It really is a stunning watch, but it is light years from the 16570 that I have owned since 2010. I thought I would take some time to chronical the dramatic and obvious differences between them.



BEZEL

The EXP2 with the fixed steel bezel and white dial is the consummate tool watch in my opinion. There is no rotating bezel to damage. Mine shows the scars and scrapes from 14 years of wear. The BLNR has a beautiful ceramic bezel filled with platinum numerals and is extremely flashy. It is one of my favorite things about the watch. The blue and black color combination is stunning and really gives the watch some pop!


DIAL

The EXP2 white dial has black applied markers and black handset for visibility (no white gold hands here). The white dial is extremely legible GMT hand is done in red for outstanding visability. The BLNR has the white gold markers, white gold hands and blue GMT hand which matches the bezel color. It is stunning and the black dial is a deep gloss black.

BRACELET

The EXP2 bracelet has hollow center links and has a very cheap feeling stamped clasp. I have retrofitted mine with the Steel Reef EZ link style extension and it is a life saver or else you have to wear the bracelet super loose at all times. The bracelet does have a ton of micro adjustment in the clasp. The BLNR clasp feels like a bank vault when you shut it. The jubilee bracelet is a marvel of design and is the most beautiful bracelet on any watch at any price (in my opinion – yes I have seen APs integrated bracelet in person). The EZ link extension on the BLNR is fantastic to adjust the watch to the perfect position.



WEIGHT

The EXP2 sized to my wrist comes in at 123 grams while the BLNR comes in at 142 grams. The BLNR feels much more substantial and solid but for a tool watch the light weight nature of the EXP2 is wonderful.

WRIST PRESENCE

The EXP2 is extremely understated I don't think anyone has once noticed or commented on it in 14 years. It flys under the radar so low that its not even a blip. I would feel comfortable wearing the EXP2 in places I would never wear the BLNR. The EXP2 glides under a ski glove with ease. The BLNR on the other hand screams ROLEX! It really is one of the classics in the catalog and there is no doubt what you are wearing.


COST

The BLNR retail price is over twice the cost of the EXP2 when I purchased it in 2010. I also got a 12% discount on the EXP2 back in 2010 (ah the good old days)! I paid $5250 out the door for the EXP2 in 2010 and my BLNR was $11,500 just recently. Even adjusted for inflation that is a BIG step up in cost. Rolex has moved upmarket from the simple tool watches they used to make. I believe the EXP2 is one of the best examples of a true tool watch that they have made.

FINAL THOUGHTS

I think these two GMT watches are SO different and stark in contrast that they make an outstanding pair in a collection. They really scratch different itches. One is like a Jeep Wrangler Rubicon and the other one is like a BMW M5. There is no “right” or “wrong” answer between them and they both stand on their own in my collection. I just happen to love them both for very, very, very different reasons. For now the EXP2 will remain my primary winter ski trip and adventure watch (it really does that SO well) and the BLNR is my more upscale sport piece.

I highly recommend both….. and now for that vintage 1675!

[Doug5551]

Great post!!

And brilliant minds think alike.....

[subtona]

Well done.

Imho the exp II is one of the greatest watches made and for me the perfect no nonsense travel watch. It has been a steadfast part of my collection for longer than many exceptional and desirable watches. It is durable precise and reliable. Its function is pure and setting the hour hand to the travel destination is my most enjoyable ritual once the plane is airborne.

[Krash]

When I got the call for my BLNR, I was sort of hesitant believe it or not. Something was seriously wrong with my brain at the time. It’s gorgeous. If I said no, I’d have some serious remorse going on right now.




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[Brich436]

Originally Posted by Krash

When I got the call for my BLNR, I was sort of hesitant believe it or not. Something was seriously wrong with my brain at the time. It’s gorgeous. If I said no, I’d have some serious remorse going on right now.


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It’s funny you say that because my AD called me for Pepsi a few years ago and I turned it down. I knew I wanted the BLNR and waited for the right time to get it! I had demoed it about 15 times and knew it was right for me! Pepsi never scratched the itch.

[USMC034L]

Great post, and it rings so true. The 16570 polar Exp II was my first Rolex. In my mind, there is just something so charming and lovely about the 5 digit models. Such simplicity and rugged usability has now transitioned to flash and jewelry, but I'll admit it's still pretty hard-wearing. That being said, I do enjoy having both generations in the collection.

One thing I wanted to mention though---and maybe some of the more knowledgable members than I could chime in here---but weren't the hands and dial markers still white gold underneath the black paint?

[TimeLord2]

Originally Posted by USMC034L

Great post, and it rings so true. The 16570 polar Exp II was my first Rolex. In my mind, there is just something so charming and lovely about the 5 digit models. Such simplicity and rugged usability has now transitioned to flash and jewelry, but I'll admit it's still pretty hard-wearing. That being said, I do enjoy having both generations in the collection.

One thing I wanted to mention though---and maybe some of the more knowledgable members than I could chime in here---but weren't the hands and dial markers still white gold underneath the black paint?

Yes, white gold hands and hour markers. https://www.beyondthedial.com/post/c...ces-in-detail/
My dad has a 16750…

[Oldfellow]

Fantastic post.
I have a Polar too and would never part with it. Due to your comment re the bracelet, I’m now thinking of the EZ link addition.

[996marty]

Two great watches with the BLNR for me looking as good as ever

[Rolex1982]

Great comparison, thank you for sharing your thoughts!

[brandrea]

Thank you for sharing your thoughts

Both are great fir different reasons as you point out. It’s nice that you have both in your collection

[travisb]

Nice comparison and congrats on the addition!

[1William]

Nice post on the thoughts of ownership of two very cool watches. The size of the older Explorer II was always an issue for me as I feel it wears too small on my 7.5-7.75 inch wrist. The newer model Explorer II works great for me at 42mm and is one of my favorite watches. I own the BLNR on Jubilee and think it is great. I was not a huge jubilee fan until I got the BLNR, and later BLRO on jubilee, but it works great. I have found that all watches don't have to work for all people but we can admire even if we do not want to own.

[rmlovett1]

Nice review! Two great pieces!

[JRell]

Thank you - fantastic review! I enjoyed reading this morning. Great quality post. You described exactly how I feel about the BLNR. I had 14 other modern Rolex models and this was the one that stuck. I do want a straightforward tool watch again. That being said, my lifestyle doesn’t need it, but being under the radar at times is a good thing.

[Brich436]

Originally Posted by JRell

Thank you - fantastic review! I enjoyed reading this morning. Great quality post. You described exactly how I feel about the BLNR. I had 14 other modern Rolex models and this was the one that stuck. I do want a straightforward tool watch again. That being said, my lifestyle doesn’t need it, but being under the radar at times is a good thing.

I very much enjoy the Tudor Pelagos models. OG, FXD, P39 each are cool and tooltastic in their own way. Be a nice add to the BLNR!

[JRell]

Originally Posted by Brich436

I very much enjoy the Tudor Pelagos models. OG, FXD, P39 each are cool and tooltastic in their own way. Be a nice add to the BLNR!

Good advice - will look into it!

[ukwatchguy1]

Enjoyed reading this and great review! I previously have had a bluesy, sub steel 41mm, Starbucks mk1 and a few others but really liking my BLNR jubilee!

A great one and done and all rounder , flashy and also tool like, considering adding a second - current thoughts are:

On the list at AD for a mint DJ41 fluted jubilee , have bought all my other watches Grey previously

Or to add a Starbucks/ Kermit mk2, sub date 40mm, bluesy two tone but I’ve had them a few times! Panda a bit of a stretch as second at grey pricing, any others…

[Jackie Daytona]

Nice post.

I actually just recently had a similar debate on my end. Growing up I always kind of viewed Rolex as a really nice watch where the overall intended purpose was as a tool, and always loved them for that.

Because I have always viewed them as that it started making me question some of my collection and why I have what I have. So just yesterday I decided to swap my Milgauss for a 16570. Excited for it to come in.

It’s funny how this post is very similar to my own internal debates on it all recently. Loved my Milgauss, but the fact it was a bit more jewel than tool sort of tipped it towards the Exp II.

[Brich436]

Originally Posted by Jackie Daytona

Nice post.

I actually just recently had a similar debate on my end. Growing up I always kind of viewed Rolex as a really nice watch where the overall intended purpose was as a tool, and always loved them for that.

Because I have always viewed them as that it started making me question some of my collection and why I have what I have. So just yesterday I decided to swap my Milgauss for a 16570. Excited for it to come in.

It’s funny how this post is very similar to my own internal debates on it all recently. Loved my Milgauss, but the fact it was a bit more jewel than tool sort of tipped it towards the Exp II.

In my opinion Tudor has taken over the tool watch market while big brother Rolex moves upmarket. There’s no right or wrong answer just what speaks to you!


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[Calatrava r]

Great post. The market over the last 14 years has moved strongly into watches with colors.

[Guppydriver]

Enjoyed this post very much. I have the BLNR (Oys) and am waiting for the 226570.

By the way, your EXPII looks like it should! Aggressively and confidently worn! I freaking love it.

[Brich436]

Originally Posted by Guppydriver

Enjoyed this post very much. I have the BLNR (Oys) and am waiting for the 226570.

By the way, your EXPII looks like it should! Aggressively and confidently worn! I freaking love it.

It is heavily patina’d and the Chrystal has a good flea bite on it. It’s done some Exploring and was on my wrist when I took some EPIC falls skiing. lol the watch was fine. Me not so much.


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[Nads786]

Great post and thoughts. I really like the jewel and tool 2 watch combo. I'm really thinking about the Rolex Explorer 1 as my companion to my BLNR.

I love the brushed oyster bracelet with an all black toolish watch.

[Brich436]

Originally Posted by Nads786

Great post and thoughts. I really like the jewel and tool 2 watch combo. I'm really thinking about the Rolex Explorer 1 as my companion to my BLNR.

I love the brushed oyster bracelet with an all black toolish watch.

Exp 1 in 36mm is my EDC. It’s also my favorite watch. Everything you need. Nothing you don’t! Been wearing it at work daily for 3 years straight. Lot of patina on this too.




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[Nads786]

Originally Posted by Brich436

Exp 1 in 36mm is my EDC. It’s also my favorite watch. Everything you need. Nothing you don’t! Been wearing it at work daily for 3 years straight. Lot of patina on this too.




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I'm going to try it out at the AD this week.

[0nly5iv3Digits]

Nice watches! I do prefer Rolex of “old”. I guess you could say I’m a “tool” over “jewel” kind of guy.

[S.Explorer]

Nice comparison.

In many ways, I feel the old GMT II (16710) has more in common with your old Explorer II than the current gen GMT II.

[Brich436]

Originally Posted by S.Explorer

Nice comparison.

In many ways, I feel the old GMT II (16710) has more in common with your old Explorer II than the current gen GMT II.

Yes indeed. I would love to go back one more generation and get a 1675 but a touch outside my budget!


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[fishingbear]

Great post! Just looked up those Reef EZ links, got 2 on the way for a couple of my 5 digit references.

I love this forum!