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20 June 2024, 07:58 PM | #1 |
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18038/18238 Links and Other Questions
Good Morning!
It is looking like I might be picking up my first vintage soon and I have a few questions, I've done some searching but as always came away with more questions than answers. As some back story, last year I was able to get my first Rolex, a 126710BLNR, new from an AD. I soon discovered that Rolexes have a higher nickel content than any other watch I have worn which has caused flare-ups of my nickel allergy. I tried to live with it through various means, but this has led me down the path of going PM which means vintage. I am looking at 18038s and 18238s with the hopes of finding one at a reputable dealer with a similar value to my GMT so that I can trade it out directly; a 1987 or 1989 would be ideal. As this is my first vintage I am trying to go into this as prepared as possible. Now, on to the questions. First, I have a fairly large wrist and purchased an extra link for my GMT, most of the Day-Dates I have looked at seem to be sized quite small so I will need to purchase 1 if not 2 or 3 links to get the watch up to the correct size for me. I have seen links on eBay but haven't been able to find a dealer that has them listed, I want to be sure I am purchasing genuine parts; What would be the best way to ensure that if I end up buying on eBay or would going to a local AD be the best bet? Can ADs still get links for vintage watches? Second, Bracelet stretch: How much is too much? Ultimately I'd love something factory tight and unworn but the value would be too high for a close trade with my watch. If I end up buying something thats a bit too stretched, is Rolliworks service the way to go? Third, Dailying and Service: This would be my daily watch. I know that something in the late 80s/early 90s is still new enough to be dailyed without many issues; I would also most likely send it in for service after buying it unless it was explicitly stated that it had a recent service. Is there anything else I should be prepared for when dailying one of these or should I be prepared for a jaw dropping service cost? And finally, avoiding fake parts/parts bin rebuilds/over-polished examples: I assume that all of the big dealers are going to be reputable and ensure everything is legitimate. But my knowledge of vintage rolexes isn't an ocean so much as a stream and when I am potentially in a shop looking at watches I won't have the experts here at hand. Is there anything I can look for directly to avoid buying something I shouldn't beyond buying the seller? Are there any dealers that are known to over-polish that I should avoid? Thank you in advance for all answers and any links that will help! And of course, if anyone has any leads on watches/dealers where they think I might be able to do a direct trade or other words of wisdom, I am all ears! |
22 June 2024, 07:14 PM | #2 |
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With a 2023 126710BLNR I would be looking to trade into a really nice fullset 18238 (the double quickset is great) that is a full set with minimal wear. Or even a 118238 - this would likely take funds on top to get the 6 digit. If you find a model you like in good condition, you can have RSC service it an install a new dial (however I'd only do this if the dial on it is a standard champagne or similar, as you probably can't retain the original.)
Links can be bought from places such as overnightlinks, or at the AD. An AD will charge an obscene amount of money (likely 6 - 700 USD a link).
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24 June 2024, 03:48 PM | #3 | |
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Quote:
I did a trade/sell value with 2 of the larger dealers with the results being lower than expected. It looks like unless I sell my watch off privately (which I don't know if I am experienced enough to do) I would have to add a bit to get into a nice 18238. I did look at a very nicely, nearly unworn 18238 but it involved me adding around $4,000. And it was definitely one I'd want to send in for service with how little it was used just to make sure everything is running well. I do appreciate the shoutout for overnightlinks, didn't know about them! I will keep looking around and seeing what I can find for a good trade. |
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25 June 2024, 02:57 AM | #4 |
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" nearly unworn 18238 but it involved me adding around $4,000"
What was the price of the 18238 ?? |
25 June 2024, 05:11 AM | #5 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
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25 June 2024, 04:28 AM | #6 |
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A couple of months ago I might have been interested in that trade.
I had my 18238 Ivory/Silver dial serviced in 2019, it's an A-Serial, so 1999, last of the 5 digits, in superb shape. Bracelet is perfect, no stretch at all. When I purchased it, full set, it had been a safe queen, green sticker still on the back intact, Rolex Tech said case had never been opened when I took it in for its service. My wrist is 7.5 and could move the bracelet probably enough that it might have fit you without any extra links. But fell in love with the 5 digit Rolex GMT Pepsi 16700 and found one that fit the bill. The Day-Date is a tank of a watch, don't wear it as much as I'd like, have thought of moving it on a few times, but my son loves it..... Good luck in your hunt, definitely try to get as late 90's as you can and as you note, make sure the bracelet is in great shape and the dial is perfect. Here's a pic of my 1999 A-Serial 18238 Rolex Day-Date. |
25 June 2024, 04:36 AM | #7 |
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Bracelet stretch: the intake guidance sheet Rolex provides shows bracelet sag making a full “U” as the guideline for *requiring* replacement. Anything less than that is up to the wearer’s tolerance as to how much is “too much.”
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25 June 2024, 06:15 AM | #8 |
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Links pop up pretty regularly for sale here in the parts/accessories section (and they'll be much cheaper than buying new from AD). Do your homework even buying from sellers here on the forum.
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26 June 2024, 09:22 AM | #9 |
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Am I allowed to post photos of watches I am looking at here for opinions?
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26 June 2024, 09:53 AM | #10 |
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26 June 2024, 10:05 AM | #11 |
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I will make these separate posts within the thread so I can't confuse them.
This first one I've already shown to Phrank who advised me that the dial has a blemish which isn't good. And we have no photos of the clasp to determine if its original. But other than that it looks good. $16k |
26 June 2024, 09:57 AM | #12 | |
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It's easy to get emotionally attached to a watch you find, and the forum removes the film of excitement from your eyes and provides an objective view. Let alone when the actual reference experts check in.... Just be patient, keep an open mind, and take your time finding the right example of the watch you want - it's going to be with you for a long time. Good Luck and Good Hunting! |
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26 June 2024, 10:09 AM | #13 |
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This one is from Tropical, who I know is respected here.
Again, no photos of the clasp but he says it matches. This is only a single quickset however. $17,350 |
26 June 2024, 10:14 AM | #14 |
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This one is a double quickset. Fullset and unpolished. Looks to be in really good condition from my eyes but I have not heard much about this dealer and it may be out of my trade-price range.
$20,495 |
26 June 2024, 10:24 AM | #15 | |
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Quote:
Might help to add prices. |
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26 June 2024, 10:33 AM | #16 |
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26 June 2024, 11:38 AM | #17 |
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Heres another 18038 from a trusted seller here. This one is $15,250. No mention of polishing, clasp is correctly coded.
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26 June 2024, 12:03 PM | #18 |
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I saw that one from Jacek today aka tropicalwatch. Great seller and I like that combo.
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26 June 2024, 02:45 PM | #19 |
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I expect I would be happy with either of the first two.
If the dial blemish you refer to is the one at :18 on the first watch, I don’t know if it would be visible to the naked eye, and it’s a really handsome and uncommon disc marker dial. Broadly though, I think a white dial looks better than champagne on these. |
29 June 2024, 10:42 AM | #20 |
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How does this one look for $17k? It does have an engraving on the caseback but I am ok with it.
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29 June 2024, 05:16 PM | #21 |
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Just popped on C24 and found this one. It looks great, seller says its unpolished, it definitely looks like it.
Its listed at $17,000. The only two things that give me pause, the day and date wheels are still very white, I don't think I've seen any of this age this white (1987) and there is a small mark between the bracelet and bezel just near the 7, I can't tell if its dirt, a shadow, or a blemish in the gold. Thoughts? |
29 June 2024, 05:39 PM | #22 |
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Nice watch. Set is put together, the 1987 booklet is the side profile of a day date - that booklet with the day date is like 1990 or 1991.
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29 June 2024, 05:50 PM | #23 | |
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Quote:
What do you think of the one in the post just prior to that one (post #20) |
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30 June 2024, 10:12 PM | #24 | |
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Quote:
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30 June 2024, 10:14 PM | #25 |
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I think 17 is too much as well for the champagne dial - great condition on the band though.
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30 June 2024, 11:46 PM | #26 | ||
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Sadly, I will need to add links to anything considering I need 1 more than they came with originally and I haven't even seen that many that are fully linked. With this one I am going to need 3 links, I believe. I am also factoring in the cost of a service for any of them I go with. Quote:
Keeping my eyes open for everything that gets listed. |
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2 July 2024, 08:40 PM | #27 |
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This one seems to have just gone up. Its a 1988 at $14,950.
I can't tell if its been polished, the bezel looks a bit soft to me but my eyes aren't as good at this. What are your thoughts? |
11 July 2024, 10:48 AM | #28 |
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Great score, love this watch too !
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11 July 2024, 11:58 PM | #29 |
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Nice
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13 July 2024, 05:06 AM | #30 |
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Big Congrats. Enjoy
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