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3 January 2016, 12:50 PM | #1 |
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If you were going to get a 1966 birth year
Which one and why? It's my new obsession as my big 50 approaches. Also any suggestions for good vintage dealers is appreciated.
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3 January 2016, 01:07 PM | #2 |
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See this thread for vintage dealers: www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=180461
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3 January 2016, 01:12 PM | #3 |
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3 January 2016, 01:13 PM | #4 |
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For 1966 it should be a gilt whatever you get. Whether sub, GMT, explorer, datejust. Lots of beautiful gilts in that year.
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3 January 2016, 01:33 PM | #5 |
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3 January 2016, 01:52 PM | #6 |
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Thanks for the replies and thanks Adam for the link. I'm too much of a noob to understand the nuances of gilt - what should I look for? What's reasonable to pay?
Seems to me the true vintage ones look at home on a nice leather band as well as original - does it matter? |
3 January 2016, 01:59 PM | #7 |
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It would be helpful to know your budget.
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3 January 2016, 02:36 PM | #8 |
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Leather or bracelet doesn't matter at all. It's good to have both for some variety. For a good gilt head to one of the reliable dealers such as sheartime, 10past10 or hqmilton. Be prepared to pay a strong market price but you'll get a good piece. If you try and get a bargain elsewhere there's a high chance you get a poor piece. Prices for subs are highest, followed by gmts, then explorers and lastly datejusts. You may even find a gilt date from 1966 which should be cheaper still. Prices will range from high 4 figures (usd) to perhaps 40k for an excellent 5512 gilt sub.
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3 January 2016, 03:39 PM | #9 |
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Another vote for HQ Milton.
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3 January 2016, 11:29 PM | #10 |
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3 January 2016, 11:33 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
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5 January 2016, 04:42 PM | #12 |
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I would get a solid 5513 meters first example. 1966 was the first year of production for the iconic 5513 matte dial no-date subs, so it's only fitting that your birthyear watch be an early 5513 mf
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6 January 2016, 12:45 AM | #13 | |
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Quote:
....OR,you could get a 1966 last of the gilt dials 5513! It'll cost you more, but a much more sought-after, and far prettier dial in my opinion. About as iconic as they come. |
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6 January 2016, 12:54 AM | #14 |
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Thanks for the info - HQ Milton was informative - @ O E B was wanting to stay $3-7k so seems Gilt is out (unless I hide from wife the cost and live with guilt), also without a firm knowledge yet - hard to purchase collectible factor until I know which factors appeal to me - I'm at least a few years away from being even a novice it seems - but have expanded my knowledge base greatly here and enjoy the forum.
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6 January 2016, 01:22 AM | #15 |
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Keep it simple, then. You can get a perfectly good Datejust with your birthyear stamped inside the caseback for less than $3k if you just want a nice vintage Rolex. Look for a 1603 or 1601.
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6 January 2016, 01:30 AM | #16 |
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Oh you "kids" :-) How 'bout an Omega Speedmaster 105.012-66 w/CB case?
Milton just sold one, complete (bracelet, end-clips and LoA) with recent service, for less than $8k.US. |
6 January 2016, 01:55 AM | #17 |
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