1972 GMT 1675 Pepsi

[EdwardC]

Does this look authentic to you? As a 40+ year old watch I think the condition seems too good?

[037]

No major red flags on authenticity. It looks correct for a Long E dial. The insert looks to have been replaced during service at some point (and I only say that due to its lack of fading and condition of the crystal). I just looked at it again and the 8s aren't shaped correctly for that era. It's authentic but later.

With the rounded lugs it's likely been serviced and, as mentioned, likely received a new insert and crystal.

How does the bracelet look if included? What are the endlink, link and clasp codes?

[DanielWatson]

Looks to me like some parts of the lume has been re done, obviously shows where it has, and the bezel has probably been replaced as it would be much more faded for 40 years old. Also it has been over polished.

[Tom1675]

I don't think the condition is great here. The crown isn't screwed down in the photo. That, coupled with the lumes with spots and flaking could be an indication of a real problem.

[albaserver]

It looks like tritium has gone away from some index... insert is service and as the lugs appear in this single pic, it's too polished.

[wcs23]

Originally Posted by albaserver

It looks like tritium has gone away from some index... insert is service and as the lugs appear in this single pic, it's too polished.

What about the date disk? Would anything of that era have open sixes / nines or were they always a mixed bag?


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[albaserver]

Originally Posted by wcs23

What about the date disk? Would anything of that era have open sixes / nines or were they always a mixed bag?


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It could have the open 6s and 9s or the hooked 7 (with closed 6s and 9s).

[springer]

Originally Posted by albaserver

It could have the open 6s and 9s or the hooked 7 (with closed 6s and 9s).

First off, there weren't open 6 and 9s during that time frame - not that it really matters since the watch has many other issues with the date wheel being the least of the problems.

The dial is damaged both at the 12 and 6 positions and has lume missing from several of the markers. Also, it has a service insert as well as an overly polished case.

[albaserver]

Originally Posted by springer

First off, there weren't open 6 and 9s during that time frame - not that it really matters since the watch has many other issues with the date wheel being the least of the problems.

The dial is damaged both at the 12 and 6 positions and has lume missing from several of the markers. Also, it has a service insert as well as an overly polished case.

I've seen so many 1675 Long E with open 6s and 9s date wheel...

[wcs23]

Thanks guys, I’m trying to learn and appreciate the insight here on TRF. The answer isn’t always (or often) straightforward!


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[swish77]

Hard pass on the OP’s watch. In addition to the above-mentioned issues, how about the chips at the dial edge around the 10 and 11 o’clock markers.

And that top right lug is a tooth pick. Hurts to look at it.

[springer]

Originally Posted by albaserver

I've seen so many 1675 Long E with open 6s and 9s date wheel...

That's good to know. I've seen many incorrect models too. The inserts on a couple of models in your photos are not original either by that doesn't make it period correct.

Vintage watches are notorious for having parts changed the past four or five decades. Enjoy your watch.

[springer]

Originally Posted by springer

That's good to know. I've seen many incorrect models too. The inserts on a couple of models in your photos are not original either by that doesn't make it period correct.

Vintage watches are notorious for having parts changed the past four or five decades. Enjoy your watch.

Let me qualify my last couple responses. The Mark I dial models up to the late 1960s are normally found with the "hooked 7" date wheel. The 1675s with the Mark I dials can be found as late as the early 1970s with 1970-1971 case backs. The date wheel during this era could have the open 6-9 date wheel or possibly the "hooked 7" wheel.

Personally, I have never seen the 1966-69 models without the "hooked 7" date wheel.

Sorry for any confusion here.

[albaserver]

Originally Posted by springer

Let me qualify my last couple responses. The Mark
Personally, I have never seen the 1966-69 models without the "hooked 7" date wheel.

Now I think it's better and I agree with you :)

Hooked 7 date wheel disappeared in 1970 replaced by open 6s and 9s. I like to see Long E until 1969 with hooked 7 disc and from 1970 with open 6s and 9s date disc.

But I think there is a more important rule: be tolerant in transaction periods ;)

HAGW!

[chows99]

Originally Posted by swish77

Hard pass on the OP’s watch. In addition to the above-mentioned issues, how about the chips at the dial edge around the 10 and 11 o’clock markers.

And that top right lug is a tooth pick. Hurts to look at it.

Just curious. If we disregard all other issues, is the paint loss at the edge of the dial a very significant negative to the perceived value?

[kimquyet88]

It seems to have been water infiltrated

[1675-David]

Originally Posted by albaserver

Now I think it's better and I agree with you :)

...and from 1970 with open 6s and 9s date disc.



HAGW!

open 6,9,16,19,29 but closed 26... go figure!! Rolex strikes again

[albaserver]

Originally Posted by 1675-David

open 6,9,16,19,29 but closed 26... go figure!! Rolex strikes again

Yes, the first date wheels with open 6s and 9s have the 6 of 26 closed. The reference of this particular disc is 7090.

But I have no idea what's the reference's code of hooked 7 date wheel. Someone can help me?