SIHH 2019 potential new release by AP

[Watcheroo]

Originally Posted by GoingPlaces

I will keep an open mind, could be really exciting. How many versions of RO can you make? Time for something new.

Precisely this.

I for one hope this new line succeeds and provides the watch world with an AP that’s an alternative to their RO and ROO lines. Patek succeeded in doing this when they introduced the Aquanaut as an alternative to the Nautilus.

[Burlington]

Originally Posted by tng11

I predict that this new line is going to fall flat. The market wants sports watches and dress, or even hybrid dress/slightly sporty watches are shelf dwellers.

I think the biggest challenge will be AP’s past success with the RO design.

They are so well known for the iconic shape and visible bezel screws that anything different will be treated with exactly this level of trepidation.

Will be curious if they launch just on leather straps as this will limit appeal to many - especially the absence of the faceted brilliance of their current bracelet.

I think the images so far (assuming that is the new launch - which looks very likely at this point) do look good, but will it convert new buyers to the brand is the question only time can answer.

[GoingPlaces]

Originally Posted by Burlington

I think the biggest challenge will be AP’s past success with the RO design.

They are so well known for the iconic shape and visible bezel screws that anything different will be treated with exactly this level of trepidation.

Will be curious if they launch just on leather straps as this will limit appeal to many - especially the absence of the faceted brilliance of their current bracelet.

I think the images so far (assuming that is the new launch - which looks very likely at this point) do look good, but will it convert new buyers to the brand is the question only time can answer.

Yes, they seem to be in a vacuum with all the success the RO line has brought. It will serve them well in the long run to be able to successfully diversify and grow horizontally in product offerings. I really hope this takes off.

[Burlington]

Originally Posted by GoingPlaces

Yes, they seem to be in a vacuum with all the success the RO line has brought. It will serve them well in the long run to be able to successfully diversify and grow horizontally in product offerings. I really hope this takes off.

Yes agree - scalable diversification through big NPD vs. proliferation and tail SKU generation is a sensible long term strategy.

It’s a real catch 22 for them though, hard to break away from an iconic design, yet don’t want to be perceived as a ‘one watch’ company. It’s do-able but not easy !

Wonder if this will prompt delists of slow moving JA/millenary lines in time too.

[duc888]

How many versions of RO can you make?

Ask Mr. Biver and Hublot

[duc888]

Maybe the chrono could look like this...from another US Design Patent

[Submarino]

Originally Posted by Burlington

Yes agree - scalable diversification through big NPD vs. proliferation and tail SKU generation is a sensible long term strategy.

It’s a real catch 22 for them though, hard to break away from an iconic design, yet don’t want to be perceived as a ‘one watch’ company. It’s do-able but not easy !

Wonder if this will prompt delists of slow moving JA/millenary lines in time too.

IMHO nothing wrong with being a one watch case shape type of company, that's what Rolex has done for most of their life with the round Oyster Perpetual case and they're still leading. I think the Royal Oak still has many variations and complications possible. For sure it's time for an in-house chrono and not sure how a new round watch with such lugs would be successful in the company's lineup. The Jules Audemars line, the Millenary, and the defunct Edward Piguet line have always fallen very short against the continued success of the Royal Oak.

[karasus]

Originally Posted by duc888

Maybe the chrono could look like this...from another US Design Patent

Did some more digging Patent for this was filed in 2017: https://patentimages.storage.googlea.../USD814947.pdf

https://patents.google.com/patent/US...ority:20160101

The designer is Claude Emmenegger, it appears on his site that he has worked for AP before and designed the AP concept (slide 5/7)

https://www.cedesign.ch/3794557/design

So its credible from the photos and the patent that the new watch will be a chrono, and maybe a new dress watch. Probably a reimagining of the Jules Audemars line?

Looks like the watche will be in rose gold first so its gonna be dressy.

[karasus]

watch case patent filed in 2016: https://patents.google.com/patent/US...iguet&sort=new

[karasus]

Originally Posted by Submarino

IMHO nothing wrong with being a one watch case shape type of company, that's what Rolex has done for most of their life with the round Oyster Perpetual case and they're still leading. I think the Royal Oak still has many variations and complications possible. For sure it's time for an in-house chrono and not sure how a new round watch with such lugs would be successful in the company's lineup. The Jules Audemars line, the Millenary, and the defunct Edward Piguet line have always fallen very short against the continued success of the Royal Oak.

True, Rolex has a lot of success with the Oyster Line but they are also trying to push their dress watch lines. If you go to the new rolex site, in watches you first see the dress watches.

AP definitely works a lot on the RO and ROO line but these are icons and its hard to make too big of a change.

Looking at the patents, dial layout from movement and case proportions I am guessing they are revamping the Jules Audemars line to give it a more modern look and at the same time introduce a new in house chrono automatic movement.

Why are they doing this, well I would guess its to first test out the movement and work out the kinks in a product line that isn't too hot atm so less risk if things break. Then later bring that movement to the RO 41mm chronos with display caseback (currently using F.Piguet without display caseback).

Once the new chrono's are in the RO line we could see a move to incrementally upgrade the movement to a splits second chrono/perpetual calendar chrono/ minute repeater chrono/ splits seconds minute repeater chrono.

Basically if we look at the AP main production line, its weakness is that it doesn't have some of the ultra complicated in house movements that combine chronograph + perpetual/minute repeater. And its kinda what is holding them back, what we see now is AP possibly launch a new in house chrono movement to move into that field which VC/Lange/Patek/Journe holds.

If I had to make a theory on AP's product plan it would be: VC/Lange/Patek/Journe none of them have a high end ultra-thin automatic splits seconds chrono. The only ultra high end ultra-thin automatic splits second chronograph movement is made by F.Piguet, Caliber 1186. The main reason for this is probably because most VC/Lange/Patek/Journe which is some derivative of leminia manual chronos, the design was very good but its on the thicker side. Putting an automatic winding mechanism would make their current chrono lineup 15+mm thick, which is sea dweller thickness so probably not acceptable. The base F.Piguet 1185 automatic chronograph movement is only 3.9mm thick, for comparison the similar Patek CH 28-520 automatic chronograph in the 5980s is 6.6mm almost twice the thickness of the 1185.

AP probably started using the 1185 (currently in RO chronos) from F.Piguet and hoped to get the 1186 later but F.Piguet(Blancpain) was bought by Swatch. Swatch most likely blocked the sale of newer movement types to competitors. Biver talks about how he could not get the 1185 for Hublot, how in his opinion it is the best automatic chronograph movement (its objectively the thinnest to date) and how it can run continuously without accuracy and amplitude loss. So basically after Swatch bought F.Piguet AP was stuck with the base 1185 instead of the more advanced 1186 4mm thick chrono with rattrapante module to build upon.

If AP wanted to build cool new watches and designs they would need an inhouse movement, and now we have their new movement + line to test it out. Additionally this movement could be an ultrathin automatic chrono that rivals the 1185. It will most likely also be a platform for AP to build their own version of the 1186 splits seconds ultra thin. Actually AP is the only one of the holy trinity that doesn't make a splits seconds chrono, so this could be the start fof that development. But hey its just speculation so take everything with a grain of salt.

[2nastie]

Well this is certainly different... a lot different that what we have seen for the past couple decades?

[GoingPlaces]

Originally Posted by Submarino

IMHO nothing wrong with being a one watch case shape type of company, that's what Rolex has done for most of their life with the round Oyster Perpetual case and they're still leading. I think the Royal Oak still has many variations and complications possible. For sure it's time for an in-house chrono and not sure how a new round watch with such lugs would be successful in the company's lineup. The Jules Audemars line, the Millenary, and the defunct Edward Piguet line have always fallen very short against the continued success of the Royal Oak.

I thought the same thing however AP has created so many endless versions on the RO that it is hard to compare to the Rolex Oyster. Also, rarely you hear someone refer to a new Rolex Oyster model. Rolex has escaped that vacuum in where most people, WIS or not, identify each model by its specific name. Rolex is always identified as just that, no one says I bought a new Oyster. Royal Oak, another story.

All this aside, AP has to come up with something to diversify. Especially as their price point considerably higher than Rolex.

[T3F]

Woof...if it looks anything like the watches in those patent images, which it appears it will, that's a huge miss. I respect them for branching out from the RO -- they need to -- but I'm not at all a fan of that watch. Also looks to be quite big and thick, which I think isa bad move, especially given this looks to be a pretty dressy watch. I wish they'd just produce some thin, nice, classic dress watches with curved lugs.

[Andad]

Originally Posted by Watcheroo

Agreed. I think this idea will look really good if executed right

Looks just like a watch to me but don’t execute it until I have seen one.

[karasus]

Honestly looking at the dial layout and proportions compared to the watch crown and minutes counter, the watch will probably be a 39-40mm, with 8-10mm thickness, which is quite good for a chronograph. But i guess we will need to wait for release to see how it looks.

[edo]

That week scale above the dial looks pretty good...

Still think it need different (more sporty) hands and lugs with possible metal bracelet integration.

[blacke90]

Guess I need to see it in person to really evaluate. Thanks for sending the pic.

[blacke90]

Originally Posted by rty2k

spotted that on their search page:

No side buttons for chrono in the pic.

[Ar_Mi]

Originally Posted by rty2k

spotted that on their search page:

Wow nice spotting! I think this is one of those watches thats going to look better in person.

[Watcheroo]

Originally Posted by directioneng

Looks just like a watch to me but don’t execute it until I have seen one.

Cute

[edo]

Originally Posted by blacke90

No side buttons for chrono in the pic.

This is a PC, no need for side buttons...

[blacke90]

Originally Posted by edo

This is a PC, no need for side buttons...

I know it’s a PC. Also see post# 16

[Watcheroo]

Originally Posted by rty2k

spotted that on their search page:

Positive first impression in my opinion. I hope it’s not larger than 40mm!

Where on the search page?

[blacke90]

Originally Posted by Watcheroo

Positive first impression in my opinion. I hope it’s not larger than 40mm!

Where on the search page?

The page indicates is a 42mm.

[Watcheroo]

Originally Posted by blacke90

No side buttons for chrono in the pic.

That’s a perpetual calendar, not a chrono

[edo]

Originally Posted by blacke90

I know it’s a PC. Also see post# 16

I know, I posted that pic...

This case design will have the time only model, probably PC without and chrono model with side buttons...

Too dress for me, but waiting to see it in metal and live pics...

[tyler1980]

the case shape is fine by me

[singe89]

Originally Posted by rty2k

spotted that on their search page:

This looks really interesting. I like the subtle RO octagon integrated into the case but I was really wanting to see what the were going to do with the dials. Would they use the tappiserrie dial or a more traditional dial. This looks like they are using the color scheme for the moon phase. Could be very very interesting.

[Burlington]

Looks good - agree that a more sporty handed version would be fun too. Case looks very interesting indeed.

[CoveWatch]

Originally Posted by rty2k

spotted that on their search page:

From that picture, it looks good. Especially compared to the current Jules line imo. Also seems to have adopted that Lange Copper Blue gold flux dial found on the saxonia