Sihh 2019

[subtona]

Originally Posted by SpunkyQ8

This is the only thing that may stand out IMO. Yet still a reedition of the limited edition 14802.. What R&D did AP do for 2019?
ZILCH!

This is fantastic... platinum would be better

[subtona]

Originally Posted by uscmatt99

The more I think about it, the more I like the progressive divergence of the Royal Oak line over the past few generations. I think most agree that the 15202 is de facto perfection against which all other RO references should be compared, so I put that one first for reference. These are all captured directly from AP's site, though the scaling may be off a bit.

The 15300 "sportified" the RO line with a more muscular case and bracelet. However I always felt the dial was a bit small relative to the bezel when compared to the 15202. Can't say I liked the white date window, even though I see what they were going for since the 9:00 hour index is a bit beefier than the svelte 15202 markers, for balance I guess.

The 15400 re-established a better dial to bezel ratio, and I favored the more vibrant blue hue of the dial. However, the small movement pulled the date window away from the edge of the dial, and they were left filling in the gap with a partial hour index.

The 15500 maintains the pleasing dial to bezel ratio, and moves the date window to the "right" place, if not a little too close to the edge. The larger AP and Audemars Piguet lines nicely compliment the relatively shorter but fatter hour indices. The hands and hour indices have become fuller and more jewel-like with the facets, and I like the increased lume. I agree with others' observations that the bottom half of the dial is a bit too spacious, as this is the only reference where that hemisphere is relatively empty.

Overall, I think the 15xxx line has evolved nicely, and there is the most clear distinction yet between a 15202 and 15500 allowing for both references in a collection. They are really two different pieces even from the front, let alone how different they will sit on the wrist. I look forward to AP's implementation of the new chrono movement (hopefully in the same case), and maybe they will be so kind as to offer a no-date version for those of us who despise the 4:30 tipped over date windows.

RO composite by uscmatt99, on Flickr

Great bunch of pics and details.
In my experience it came down to the moment I tried the 3 previous offerings on my wrist... the original is in a league of its own and instantly took the competition off the table for me.

The 15202 has perfect balance, it is a work of art, the others not so much.

[H_UK]

I'm so glad I have the 15400! Bought it last Dec, much prefer it to the 15500!

[AK797]

Originally Posted by edo

First live of gray ceramic 44...

That needs a black strap, looks like cement drying there.

[duc888]

Thanks AP, very good move...now I´m torn between buying the panda ROC now or wait until there´s a panda ROC with the new movement.

[Phaedrus29]

Larger size display back on the 15500 with better view of the movement looks sweet:

[mnl]

Originally Posted by Phaedrus29

Larger size display back on the 15500 with better view of the movement looks sweet:

It does look nice! But I wonder if the new movement will now be too big for a 37mm RO… just looking at the dial the date is all the way in the edge, not sure the dial can get much smaller than that.

[Igor01]

I like the size of the new movement as it fits the 41mm case better but IMHO the old rotor looks much nicer. Nothing quite like a big chunk of gold with an elaborate engraving job :)

Edit: What is the source of that pic? On the AP site the rotor looks completely different:

[BigBoy17]

Yuk

[tonupbklyn]

rotor reminds me of IWC's pellaton...

[christopheran]

Originally Posted by tonupbklyn

rotor reminds me of IWC's pellaton...

I agree, the older AP rotor was a thing of beauty and was one of the reasons I got into AP... the new one, not so much.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[GB-man]

Originally Posted by Igor01

I like the size of the new movement as it fits the 41mm case better but IMHO the old rotor looks much nicer. Nothing quite like a big chunk of gold with an elaborate engraving job :)

Originally Posted by Phaedrus29

Larger size display back on the 15500 with better view of the movement looks sweet:

Interesting as that’s not what’s shown on the website

[masterserg]

In my opinion ... 3120 with non skeleton rotor looks much better.

[Chaokhun]

Is it possible that the rotor is see through so people can see new movement? And the real one will be same as in AP web site.

[Phaedrus29]

Originally Posted by Igor01

I like the size of the new movement as it fits the 41mm case better but IMHO the old rotor looks much nicer. Nothing quite like a big chunk of gold with an elaborate engraving job :)

Edit: What is the source of that pic? On the AP site the rotor looks completely different:

The pic is off instagram from someone at SIHH...I too am confused about the difference between this one and the AP site.

[bondtoys]

Looks like a rotor from the Code 11:59 chrono

[GB-man]

I’m guessing it’s just a prototype rotor. We all know AP is not always ready for SIHH lol remember last year one of the cases on the 42mm wasn’t even secured together properly. Sometimes I feel like buying an AP is like buying a Maserati with a 5 year warranty. S€£¥ might happen but you’re covered!

[V25V]

Originally Posted by Phaedrus29

Larger size display back on the 15500 with better view of the movement looks sweet:

Might be just the bad photo quality but that looks awful.


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[Phaedrus29]

Originally Posted by V25V

Might be just the bad photo quality but that looks awful.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

That is probably just a prototype...I think this is the movement/rotor they are displaying:

[myporsche]

Originally Posted by masterserg

In my opinion ... 3120 with non skeleton rotor looks much better.

Agreed, it is so gorgeous! It's like AP didn't care about what a rotor is "suppose" to look like, they just designed intricate details on a beautifully shaped chunk of gold and threw it in there.





Source - https://forums.watchuseek.com/f381/a...s-1005801.html

A PURE, UNCLUTTERED SELF-WINDING MODEL A diver’s watch in all its pristine simplicity. It is equipped with the stellar Manufacture Audemars Piguet selfwinding movement: Calibre 3120.

Constantly fine-tuned and perfected, the latter is distinguished by its impressive reliability. To ensure its precision, the heart of the movement is a variable-inertia balance with a flat balance spring oscillating at a rate of 21,600 vibrations per hour.The adjustment is performed by means of eight inertia-blocks that ensure excellent stability and appreciable long-term constancy of rate.

The cross-through balance-bridge guarantees enhanced shock-resistance in that it is secured not on just one side, but on both sides of the mainplate. The direct-drive central seconds hand avoids any backlash of the hand.

Calibre 3120 is also particularly user-friendly, particularly thanks to the instant-jump, fast-adjustment date display, as well as the 60-hour power reserve. Time-setting is also facilitated by the fact that pulling out the crown immediately activates the stop-seconds lever and accordingly brings the seconds hand to a halt .

Nonetheless, the crowning glory of Calibre 3120 is undoubtedly the care lavished on its craftsmanship. Hand-assembled in the work shops of Le Brassus, it boasts exceptional quality of execution and finishing. The bridges are meticulously chamfered and polished to ensure clear cut,shining edges. The jewel sinks are diamond-polished. The wheels feature chamfered spokes and diamond-polished jewel sinks.

Even the screw rims and slots are chamfered. The hand-crafted decoration includes a mainplate circular-grained on both sides and bridges adorned with a Cotes de Geneve motif. Finally, the monobloc 22-carat gold oscillating weight bears the Audemars and Piguet family crests and the AP monogram.

[yessir69]

I have a feeling the 38mm roc in gold may be my new dress watch.

[GB-man]

Extremely quiet on the diver front. I predict we see something for that line in the next few hours.

[benlee]

Originally Posted by GB-man

Extremely quiet on the diver front. I predict we see something for that line in the next few hours.

Hopefully not. The last thing I want to see are more colored divers.

[GB-man]

Originally Posted by benlee

Hopefully not. The last thing I want to see are more colored divers.

I don’t want colored ones either. Was hoping for something more subtle

[jtsmith439]

Originally Posted by uscmatt99

The more I think about it, the more I like the progressive divergence of the Royal Oak line over the past few generations. I think most agree that the 15202 is de facto perfection against which all other RO references should be compared, so I put that one first for reference. These are all captured directly from AP's site, though the scaling may be off a bit.

The 15300 "sportified" the RO line with a more muscular case and bracelet. However I always felt the dial was a bit small relative to the bezel when compared to the 15202. Can't say I liked the white date window, even though I see what they were going for since the 9:00 hour index is a bit beefier than the svelte 15202 markers, for balance I guess.

The 15400 re-established a better dial to bezel ratio, and I favored the more vibrant blue hue of the dial. However, the small movement pulled the date window away from the edge of the dial, and they were left filling in the gap with a partial hour index.

The 15500 maintains the pleasing dial to bezel ratio, and moves the date window to the "right" place, if not a little too close to the edge. The larger AP and Audemars Piguet lines nicely compliment the relatively shorter but fatter hour indices. The hands and hour indices have become fuller and more jewel-like with the facets, and I like the increased lume. I agree with others' observations that the bottom half of the dial is a bit too spacious, as this is the only reference where that hemisphere is relatively empty.

Overall, I think the 15xxx line has evolved nicely, and there is the most clear distinction yet between a 15202 and 15500 allowing for both references in a collection. They are really two different pieces even from the front, let alone how different they will sit on the wrist. I look forward to AP's implementation of the new chrono movement (hopefully in the same case), and maybe they will be so kind as to offer a no-date version for those of us who despise the 4:30 tipped over date windows.

Great analysis. I really like the 15500. Hearing all the criticism without even trying a watch on... I like the fact that AP continues to evolve its pieces even if it doesn't please everyone. It might annoy the purists but it would be a boring world if watches always stayed the same.

[AK797]

Originally Posted by Phaedrus29

That is probably just a prototype...I think this is the movement/rotor they are displaying:

I quite like that, rather have the cut-outs exposing the movement than the AP sign in the middle. Good balance of both.

[uscmatt99]

Originally Posted by subtona

Great bunch of pics and details.
In my experience it came down to the moment I tried the 3 previous offerings on my wrist... the original is in a league of its own and instantly took the competition off the table for me.

The 15202 has perfect balance, it is a work of art, the others not so much.

Gus, you are a man of great taste. I say that because my tastes are similar My budget on the other hand.... Someday, I'd like to have a 15202 in PM, even though steel is the purest form. Oh yeah and a 5170P Until then, the 15500 is the only one on my radar from AP in my pricing comfort range. Up until this announcement I've been on the hunt for a rose gold FP Journe CS, but my commitment wavered a bit as I really like the new 15500. However, it's going to be rough to acquire one directly from a boutique for me, so the Journe may get the next seat in the watch box, and I'm good with that

[SMD]

Originally Posted by masterserg

In my opinion ... 3120 with non skeleton rotor looks much better.

Agreed. All this talk about how the new movement is an improvement over the 3120 (or the FP 1185) is pretty premature. I will wait to see in person but as of now I prefer the old 3120.

[Navarino]

When I first saw the 15500 I had mixed feelings. I hear people regarding the dial imbalance, but net net I think getting rid of "AUTOMATIC" and replacing it with nothing (imbalance) is an overall improvements.

I'll admit I don't have strong feelings regarding the date window change. Not sure if I like the half baton/stick-marker versus full-replacement with date more at the 3 o'clock section.

The markers themselves seem to be the biggest source of controversy here (next to changing the actual size of the watch). I agree they definitely give the watch a more sporty look (as oppose to a chameleon that dances the line between sport and arguably dressy watch). Some may think I am wrong or stupid for saying this, but do the new hour markers remind anyone a bit of the Nautilus markers?

Overall, I will gladly continue to hopelessly wait on the blue dial list with my boutique.

[yippie123]

I like the code perpetual actually, but again one would go for AP or ALS for the perpetual in leather ?