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Old 20 January 2020, 02:32 AM   #1
chiscott_29
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What do Boutiques and AD's think of collectors that utilize the secondary market?

Hi,

I am curious about something and want to ask a question of the forum. As I've lurked around here for a few weeks, I've come to appreciate that 99% of the responses I see on here are well thought out and people generally provide their opinions which are often rooted in experience.

My question is does anybody have any idea what the AP boutiques and AD's think of the secondary market and the collectors that utilize it? I am not necessarily asking from a perspective of whether they like or benefit from the secondary market (I remain convinced they actually need it and help in many ways to foster it). But instead, my direct question is what do boutiques and/or AD's think of somebody that has no buying history through them, but has acquired AP watches via the secondary market?

I know many people have strong feelings about the secondary market. Some hate it, and some think it's great. I don't really want to debate that specific point.

I do often ask myself if I were to go out and try and build relationships with someone directly representing the brand at a boutique or an AD, should I tell them I have utilized the secondary market to demonstrate my interest in their watches and their brand? Or, will they cast me aside and put me on the "Never Sell List" and pretend I never exist?

I've thought through this and I can see it both ways. I feel I can defend why I purchased an AP from a non-authorized dealer and am very comfortable having that conversation. I definitely do want to start building a relationship, not because I think I'm getting a Ceramic or a Jumbo (I'm not going to), but because there are several pieces that just shouldn't be that hard to get and building the "official" relationship I think will pay off down the line perhaps as early as a few weeks, and in future years as I am sure AP will continue to produce watches that I strive for and want to be part of my collection.

What do you guys think? Has anybody actually had this discussion with an authorized representative of AP? What is your advice when I do speak with them - Is it ok to say I went grey, or don't go there?

I genuinely look forward to hearing your thoughts.
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Old 20 January 2020, 02:40 AM   #2
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You don’t have to tell them. Not sure why you would.
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Old 20 January 2020, 02:43 AM   #3
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If youre going to the AD first and they cant source it in a reasonable time, I think its totally in your right to pursue other avenues. Thats your right as a consumer and they should understand and respect that.
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Old 20 January 2020, 02:46 AM   #4
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If you own an AP then you are part of the family.

There's nothing wrong with 'grey', we live in a market economy, without grey then there'd be no residual values to support our purchases.

The ISSUE, to those that agree, is the 'straight to grey' flipping that goes on. That's not a grey marketeer issue, it's an AP customer issue, ether in the form of an AP AD getting rid of stock (becoming far less prevalent as AP are taking ownership of their distribution in house) or an AP retail customer cashing their lottery ticket.

I doubt very much an AP AD or Boutique care where you purchased from, it is the relationship moving forwards that they care about.
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Old 20 January 2020, 03:30 AM   #5
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I can assure you they don't care anymore than if you were to buy from another AD. Of course they want as much business as they can get but all of them realize they truly have little or nothing to offer new walk-ins other that some chit chat and a bottle of water. Let's be honest, they have little to offer a large chunk of their actual customers as well, most of whom are queued on waiting lists to pay full retail for pieces that are readily available on the secondary for a discount. As mentioned above, if you own an AP you are part of the AP family but just realize it's a mixed bag of a family and you'll fit in anywhere between the "red headed stepchild" to the favorite son about to graduate cuma sum laude at harvard. Wearing an AP during your visit is definitely a positive regardless of where it was purchased. At the very least it will get you treated better and taken a bit more seriously than 90% of their window shopping visitors. Don't worry about it.
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Old 20 January 2020, 03:34 AM   #6
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I can assure you they don't care anymore than if you were to buy from another AD. Of course they want as much business as they can get but all of them realize they truly have little or nothing to offer new walk-ins other that some chit chat and a bottle of water. Let's be honest, they have little to offer a large chunk of their actual customers as well, most of whom are queued on waiting lists to pay full retail for pieces that are readily available on the secondary for a discount. As mentioned above, if you own an AP you are part of the AP family but just realize it's a mixed bag of a family and you'll fit in anywhere between the "red headed stepchild" to the favorite son about to graduate cuma sum laude at harvard. Wearing an AP during your visit is definitely a positive regardless of where it was purchased. At the very least it will get you treated better and taken a bit more seriously than 90% of their window shopping visitors. Don't worry about it.
And, to a certain extent, an AD should look at as win-win for themselves.

Here is a customer that is purchasing their brand and may have future interest in pieces...and here is someone who has the means and desire to make purchases of what i sell (ie a potential customer with means, what’s not to like about that).

Maybe it was viewed differently when people were buying grey and actively avoiding available AD pieces in order to get a discount...but the environment (both grey and AD) has changed.
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Old 20 January 2020, 03:36 AM   #7
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Really appreciate the insight from everybody. A huge thank you!

I'm going to be swinging through London on a business trip next weekend so I'm planning to stop in at the AD there. Unfortunately it seems the new AP House is closed on the weekend but am going to try and get over to the boutique on Sloane. I'm not expecting to walk out with anything more than perhaps some knowledge and a bottle of water, but it should make for a good time nonetheless!
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Old 20 January 2020, 04:35 AM   #8
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I would just keep that part to yourself unless its an older model not currently in production. It is my opinion that the most valuable customers are the ones who exclusively shop via the boutique and that's the image I would rather present. That said, I did tell NY I bought a jumbo second hand lol
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Old 20 January 2020, 04:57 AM   #9
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I would just keep that part to yourself unless its an older model not currently in production. It is my opinion that the most valuable customers are the ones who exclusively shop via the boutique and that's the image I would rather present. That said, I did tell NY I bought a jumbo second hand lol


This is exactly why I see it from all points of view. I **WANT** to think that buying from the secondary market shows your interest in the brand, and if you purchased a watch that is very difficult and/or impossible to get, what is the harm in doing this? You fulfilled your need, and keep feeding your interest in the brand. To me, that's a win/win for everybody.
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Old 20 January 2020, 05:10 AM   #10
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Really appreciate the insight from everybody. A huge thank you!

I'm going to be swinging through London on a business trip next weekend so I'm planning to stop in at the AD there. Unfortunately it seems the new AP House is closed on the weekend but am going to try and get over to the boutique on Sloane. I'm not expecting to walk out with anything more than perhaps some knowledge and a bottle of water, but it should make for a good time nonetheless!
Don't forget the boutique in Harrods, which (I think) is bigger than Sloane St. Also Selfridges has some stock.
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Old 20 January 2020, 05:38 AM   #11
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Don't forget the boutique in Harrods, which (I think) is bigger than Sloane St. Also Selfridges has some stock.


Definitely was going to do this as well if I have time. I automatically assumed they wouldn’t have much of anything though. If I strike gold I was hoping to encounter a ROC 38mm panda. That’s a boutique exclusive so I’m not expecting anything.


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Old 20 January 2020, 06:48 AM   #12
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Definitely was going to do this as well if I have time. I automatically assumed they wouldn’t have much of anything though. If I strike gold I was hoping to encounter a ROC 38mm panda. That’s a boutique exclusive so I’m not expecting anything.


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They got lots of Codes. Still worth a visit as lots of brands under one roof, and some good grub, that's food to you.
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Old 20 January 2020, 07:27 AM   #13
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Really appreciate the insight from everybody. A huge thank you!

I'm going to be swinging through London on a business trip next weekend so I'm planning to stop in at the AD there. Unfortunately it seems the new AP House is closed on the weekend but am going to try and get over to the boutique on Sloane. I'm not expecting to walk out with anything more than perhaps some knowledge and a bottle of water, but it should make for a good time nonetheless!
Make sure to make an appointment first and swing buy the AP Boutique on Brooks Mews. It's only available by appointment and they are great. It's on the 5th floor, no signage and hard to find but worth the effort. Definitely wear an AP and show your enthusiasm for the brand and odds are you'll get to try on some unicorns and at least walk away with some AP merch.
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Old 20 January 2020, 07:33 AM   #14
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Make sure to make an appointment first and swing buy the AP Boutique on Brooks Mews. It's only available by appointment and they are great. It's on the 5th floor, no signage and hard to find but worth the effort. Definitely wear an AP and show your enthusiasm for the brand and odds are you'll get to try on some unicorns and at least walk away with some AP merch.


Is this the AP House on Bond Street? Or is it something different?

I did a quick Google and they don’t appear to be open on Saturday. I’d have to see if I can sneak away from my work meeting and get there on Friday before closing.

If I do this is it as simple as calling and asking to come in? If there are any secret tips or names to drop feel free to PM me. My ego is pretty shattered from being cast aside by NYC


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Old 20 January 2020, 07:38 AM   #15
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Make sure to make an appointment first and swing buy the AP Boutique on Brooks Mews. It's only available by appointment and they are great. It's on the 5th floor, no signage and hard to find but worth the effort. Definitely wear an AP and show your enthusiasm for the brand and odds are you'll get to try on some unicorns and at least walk away with some AP merch.
Brooks Mews is no more. Bond St. is the new home of AP.
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Old 20 January 2020, 07:41 AM   #16
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Is this the AP House on Bond Street? Or is it something different?

I did a quick Google and they don’t appear to be open on Saturday. I’d have to see if I can sneak away from my work meeting and get there on Friday before closing.

If I do this is it as simple as calling and asking to come in? If there are any secret tips or names to drop feel free to PM me. My ego is pretty shattered from being cast aside by NYC


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Call first. I've no idea about Saturday hours, I'd assume it would be closed, but I don't know. I'll PM you a number and person to ask for. The only reason that I'm not posting the number in this message is not because it's a special person or special number, rather that I don't want spam bots picking up the info.
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Old 20 January 2020, 09:44 AM   #17
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Brooks Mews is no more. Bond St. is the new home of AP.
Had no idea, was there last year. Definitely the most covert location by a major brand I had ever seen. Took me forever to find it even knowing the address.
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Old 20 January 2020, 02:25 PM   #18
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My ADs understand the use of other ‘means’ to acquire what one might want if they can’t get it - in a ‘reasonable’ amount of time.


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Old 20 January 2020, 04:55 PM   #19
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When I have visited the Atlanta boutique or a Hong Kong or Macau boutique with Jumbo on my wrist, I have mentioned my history with the boutiques in Bal Harbour and Singapore (Liat Tower). I guess I assume it won’t hurt to let them know I have an existing relationship with AP boutiques.

When I visit Omega boutiques or ADs with an Omega on my wrist, they have asked if I purchased my watch with them, and I tell them I bought it elsewhere. I bought them at an AD, not grey, but they never ask for details.

When I have visited Rolex dealers with a Rolex on my wrist, they never asked where I got it.
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Old 21 January 2020, 02:37 AM   #20
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I bought my Jumbo from David SW and when I visit the boutique in Tokyo, I tell them that I bought it in the US and leave it at that.

I bought my VC Patrimony from the grey market and told the boutique in Tokyo so when I visited. They saw an opportunity to build a relationship with a new customer (sounds backwards, right?). I was put on their mailing list, get invited to all of their events (including a joint event held with Jean Rousseau during their opening of their TOKYO boutique which got me a free custom crocodile strap). They also gave me a new cushion for my display case as the pleather on my original one was peeling.

Sadly, I haven’t bought anything from them yet, but I probably will at some point when I am in the market for a watch.


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