Pen Gripes and Questions.

[HogwldFLTR]

I've noticed a habit of my fountain pens to halt and stutter the flow. It seems more pronounced on the Mountblancs I've got (but again I've been using them mainly). Is this common for fountain pens?

Also, I have a couple of cartridge pens and a couple of piston or converter loaders. The advantage of the non-cartridge pens is the ability to switch inks with less waste then on the cartridge ones. Has anyone experience in keeping cartridges which are partially full and using them again later or are they just lost if trying to switch inks?

[pickettt]

Originally Posted by HogwldFLTR

I've noticed a habit of my fountain pens to halt and stutter the flow. It seems more pronounced on the Mountblancs I've got (but again I've been using them mainly). Is this common for fountain pens?

Also, I have a couple of cartridge pens and a couple of piston or converter loaders. The advantage of the non-cartridge pens is the ability to switch inks with less waste then on the cartridge ones. Has anyone experience in keeping cartridges which are partially full and using them again later or are they just lost if trying to switch inks?

My experience is that it's common with certain nibs. That's why I prefer Sailor and Pelikan....dependable whenever I pick them up. I can not use a Mont Blanc for a week and have to clean the nib to get it to write smoothly again. Nice when it's working though. You might experiment with different inks in different pens.

I only use piston and converters, so I can't advise on you second concern.

[Brew]

Some nibs do better with some inks, and worse with others. Also, the paper you're using impacts how the ink comes out of the nib, I find.

[jar]

Converters are more susceptible to vapor lock that either cartridge or piston. The issue is surface tension. As ink is drawn out of the converter a bubble of air is drawn in. Often surface tension is sufficient to let the air bubble sit right at the entrance to the converter which stops ink flow.

The solution is usually pretty simple, take a wood tooth pick and quickly dip it into some dish detergent and then poke it momentarily into the bottle of ink then fill the converter. The problem goes away.

Warning Warning Will Robinson. LESS is more. You want to just add the very lest amount of surfactant, not even a drop in a full bottle of ink.

[Bisquitlips]

Montblancs are rather infamous for skippy stubborn nibs. I have had my favorites worked on, but on the other hand others work just fine out of the box.

Also, if they are new they need to be flushed prior to use as there are all kinds of kinky manufacturing contaminants in them that impact the nib's functionality.

Warm (not hot) water with just a very small (dipped tooth pick) drop of dish soap will work fine and then flushing with just clean warm water has always worked for me if I am having skipping and hard starts. You can find a lot of help on You Tube if you are squeamish about it.

Keep in mind that fountain pens will naturally dry out if not used over time. Just part of the joy of FPs! :)

[Bisquitlips]

Originally Posted by jar

Converters are more susceptible to vapor lock that either cartridge or piston. The issue is surface tension. As ink is drawn out of the converter a bubble of air is drawn in. Often surface tension is sufficient to let the air bubble sit right at the entrance to the converter which stops ink flow.

The solution is usually pretty simple, take a wood tooth pick and quickly dip it into some dish detergent and then poke it momentarily into the bottle of ink then fill the converter. The problem goes away.

Warning Warning Will Robinson. LESS is more. You want to just add the very lest amount of surfactant, not even a drop in a full bottle of ink.

Good advice!

[jar]

Originally Posted by Bisquitlips

Good advice!

Yeah but then he posted a writing sample and it does not look like vapor lock. First he is using Pelikan black ink which is about as dry as you can find. Also it is most often the first letter after picking the nib up off the paper.

A wetter ink will work better in the MBs and I suspect he is also wrist writing which changes the nib orientation on the paper.

Adding the surfactant will make the Pelikan ink wetter which might help the MB but his Pelikan is likely already a wet writer.

[HogwldFLTR]

Originally Posted by jar

Yeah but then he posted a writing sample and it does not look like vapor lock. First he is using Pelikan black ink which is about as dry as you can find. Also it is most often the first letter after picking the nib up off the paper.

A wetter ink will work better in the MBs and I suspect he is also wrist writing which changes the nib orientation on the paper.

Adding the surfactant will make the Pelikan ink wetter which might help the MB but his Pelikan is likely already a wet writer.

Thanks, I see you're on both forums!!! FWIW, I've not been using the Pelikan too much as I've been writing with the more expensive incomings.

[jar]

Originally Posted by HogwldFLTR

Thanks, I see you're on both forums!!! FWIW, I've not been using the Pelikan too much as I've been writing with the more expensive incomings.

Pelikans have generally been wetter writers as adjusted at the factory. MB's have generally been drier writers as adjusted at the factory.

But since the problem primarily seems to be at the start of a word after lifting off the paper the likely causes are in somewhat an order of liklihood:

Orientation. When you put the pen back down on the paper the nib is not turned so that the tip is parallel with the paper so touch across the full width of the tip. It can be related to the angle of incline or rotation of tip.

Wrist writing. Wrist writing tends to rotate the nib and actually helps when using ball points or roller balls but not with fountain pens.

Lastly ink flow in the pen. That can be solved but it's generally not something an end user should try. Honestly I've been using fountain pens for way over a half century but I still turn to them what do it for a living for many issues.

[HogwldFLTR]

Originally Posted by jar

Pelikans have generally been wetter writers as adjusted at the factory. MB's have generally been drier writers as adjusted at the factory.

But since the problem primarily seems to be at the start of a word after lifting off the paper the likely causes are in somewhat an order of liklihood:

Orientation. When you put the pen back down on the paper the nib is not turned so that the tip is parallel with the paper so touch across the full width of the tip. It can be related to the angle of incline or rotation of tip.

Wrist writing. Wrist writing tends to rotate the nib and actually helps when using ball points or roller balls but not with fountain pens.

Lastly ink flow in the pen. That can be solved but it's generally not something an end user should try. Honestly I've been using fountain pens for way over a half century but I still turn to them what do it for a living for many issues.

I've been listening. I definitely think that writing technique has a lot to do with the issue. Not likely to become an arm writer in a hurry but I'll focus on trying to keep my attack of the paper the same to reduce the issues. Also I'll look at emptying out the Pelikan ink from the MB and try using MB ink with those. Thanks!!!

[Fredrik]

I use Pilot Iroshizuku ink in my pens since a few years, someone told me it was wetter if that makes sense. I like it a lot anyway.

[Bisquitlips]

Originally Posted by jar

Yeah but then he posted a writing sample and it does not look like vapor lock. First he is using Pelikan black ink which is about as dry as you can find. Also it is most often the first letter after picking the nib up off the paper.

A wetter ink will work better in the MBs and I suspect he is also wrist writing which changes the nib orientation on the paper.

Adding the surfactant will make the Pelikan ink wetter which might help the MB but his Pelikan is likely already a wet writer.

[Bisquitlips]

Originally Posted by Fredrik

I use Pilot Iroshizuku ink in my pens since a few years, someone told me it was wetter if that makes sense. I like it a lot anyway.

Iroshizuku inks are lovely! Never had a problem with any of them. They are a bit expensive, but certainly worth the extra few dollars in a nice FP.

[pickettt]

Originally Posted by Bisquitlips

Iroshizuku inks are lovely! Never had a problem with any of them. They are a bit expensive, but certainly worth the extra few dollars in a nice FP.

...and the details, like the inkwell shape!

[Brew]

My favorite black ink.



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[Rush1]

Nakaya writes a heck of a lot better than Montblanc

[jar]

Some Nakaya's might write better than some Montblancs.

[Bisquitlips]

Originally Posted by jar

Some Nakaya's might write better than some Montblancs.

Nakayas will always write better than MBs in my experience!

[TswaneNguni]

J Herbin Perle Noire or Aurora Black ...high flow,pitch black .

Flush the pen several times with water .
Use tissue paper to drain all water .
Dont leave the pen with ink when not in use .

[TswaneNguni]

Originally Posted by Bisquitlips

Nakayas will always write better than MBs in my experience!

Nothing beats Nakaya .
Delta and Visconti comes close .
MB overall very good .

[jar]

Originally Posted by Bisquitlips

Nakayas will always write better than MBs in my experience!

Have you tried a few mid level and student level MB's from the 40s and 50s?

[HogwldFLTR]

Originally Posted by jar

Have you tried a few mid level and student level MB's from the 40s and 50s?

This 224 is just an amazing writer (for example).