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Old 22 May 2009, 12:06 PM   #1
Tools
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Big Watches.......Another Perspective

With Rolex introduction into "big watches" lately in the form of block cases and the 41mm Day Date, the 41mm Datejust, and the rotund 43mm Deep Sea, it seems that there is a trend here.

Is Rolex on the right track here ?

Some may think so... others might not see things the same way... Indeed, even Pateks latest entry into the watch field is a respectable 38mm.

Here is what Philippe Stern, owner of Patek Philippe, says about the excesses in the watch market and the "jumbo watch trend."

"Every time a new model is developed, the key issues are its function as a measuring instrument and the need for easily legible indications. The silhouette of the movement and the integration of its functions within a reasonable diameter are the guiding factors as well, because despite the current trend toward ever bulkier wristwatches, Patek Philippe may not always meet the market's capricious aesthetic preferences, but Patek Philippe knows from 170 years of experience that lasting value can only be created with confidence in matters of style and with deep respect for the principles that define the heritage of watchmaking."

So, the new millenium is turning into an interesting fashion statement vs. horological tradition and sensibilities..

Which will win ?

Who's to say.

Is Rolex suddenly moving off their dime, but too little to late................or are they just introducing models that can be dropped at a moments notice and hedging their bets......... ?

It is it the economy, or just a coincidence that Rolex has lost 40 percent in sales since the introduction of their bulky block cases and gaudy pave' models ?
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Old 22 May 2009, 12:34 PM   #2
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I think the trend for slightly larger watches will remain forever. The extreme sized watches are probably more of a transient style. If you look at the first wrist watches, they were tiny little things.
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Old 22 May 2009, 12:51 PM   #3
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Personally I think a 39mm DayDate would have been more appropriate and very nice. The extra 2mm seems to be just for shock value.

So long as they keep letting people have the option, I don't care whether or not they choose to sell the bigger watches.
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Old 22 May 2009, 01:33 PM   #4
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I used to think 40mm for the sub was way too small and wished it was around 42mm (as I used to wear a 45mm PO before). Having said that, I reckon 40mm is just about the right size for the Sub after having worn it for around a month now.

I hope Rolex stick to 40mm for Sports watches. Then again, I have unconventional taste - I don't even like the new ceramic bezels!
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Old 22 May 2009, 01:46 PM   #5
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41mm and 43mm are too big. Heck, 40mm is bigger than I want to wear. I'm out.

Fortunately, enough 36mm DD and DateJusts were made to keep me happy.
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Old 22 May 2009, 01:55 PM   #6
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i think the market demands bigger is better. its not like people arent buying these models...
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Old 22 May 2009, 01:55 PM   #7
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Rolex does not need large watch size to be recognized.
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Old 22 May 2009, 01:55 PM   #8
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Another great, thought-provoking thread from Tools. For decades, Rolex actively avoided following the crowd - eg. no "limited edition'' or numbered models and no watches bigger than 40mm. In fact, standing apart from the rest of the watch crowd was very likely part of their corporate strategy. So the decision to upsize to 41-43mm must have been taken after very careful consideration.

My view of the move is positive - I believe watch companies have to offer their customers as wide a choice as possible and that is what Rolex is doing.

Having said that, I'm glad the company has adopted a "softly, softly'' approach - gradually testing the waters by making only a couple of models larger and not going overboard with the "bigger is better'' theme.
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Old 22 May 2009, 01:57 PM   #9
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One word to describe watches that big, well two actually: Tacky and obnoxious
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Old 22 May 2009, 02:18 PM   #10
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It's amazing that 40mm would even be considered on the smaller side of watches. Once the need for large status symbols subsides (and maybe the current economy will help) people will go back to what's comfortable to wear.
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Old 22 May 2009, 02:43 PM   #11
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Bigger seems to be the trend, which is why this is what I'm upgrading to:
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Old 22 May 2009, 02:47 PM   #12
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Compared to Panerai's alarm clock size offerings, I think the Rolex range is fine.

The new DS is a bit daunting. But the others all look fine.
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Old 22 May 2009, 04:58 PM   #13
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Bigger the size is fine with me as long as the price is smaller, if not the same...
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Old 22 May 2009, 05:07 PM   #14
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40mm is the perfect size IMO. But Patek is not marketing to the same crowd is who buying a 44mm Panerai. What is even more interesting is many people will dismiss the fact that a Patek is 36mm or 38mm just because it is a Patek. The same can not be said about Rolex.
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Old 22 May 2009, 05:38 PM   #15
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there are no big and small watches
it is all relative

a ss sub looks huge on my girlfriend's wrist but tiny on my wrist
I have seen huge guys wearing 47mm pams and they looked small on them!
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Old 22 May 2009, 06:56 PM   #16
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people chasing fashion are always going to be late, stick to what suits you, be original, these things apply to personal taste and company strategy
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Old 22 May 2009, 06:57 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StarSovereign View Post
One word to describe watches that big, well two actually: Tacky and obnoxious
That's YOUR opinion. My Deepsea is neither tacky or obnoxious thank you very much. I think the larger watches suit those who are more active / sporty in their lifestyle. I have different watches for different occasions. My 36mm Raymond Weil goes very well with shirt and tie but looks like a fashion faux pas with shorts and T-shirt.
I wouldn't wear my 36mm Gold Tissot on the beach - my father did but he was in his 50s / 60s. I'm in my 30s and would look like a young fogey wearing a gold 36mm watch on the beach. When jogging, swimming, mountain biking, jet skiing etc or simply cooking a BBQ - Deepsea or Seamaster. I think Rolex certainly needed to modernize otherwise it would run out of new customers and only be selling to their long-in-the-tooth customers with one foot in the grave and the other on a banana skin.
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Old 22 May 2009, 07:03 PM   #18
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I always liked em how they were...thats why I bought one and reconditioned another!

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Old 22 May 2009, 07:06 PM   #19
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only be selling to their long-in-the-tooth customers with one foot in the grave and the other on a banana skin.
you young whipper snapper to the stocks with you
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Old 22 May 2009, 07:08 PM   #20
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Wear em if you like em. I like 40-42MM, but some of the new Rolex aren't too easy on the eyes.

At the end of the day, I have better things to worry about.
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Old 22 May 2009, 07:10 PM   #21
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... new customers and only be selling to their long-in-the-tooth customers with one foot in the grave and the other on a banana skin.
Yikes that sounds like a meeting at JJ's Octogenarian Kiwi Group!!!!!!!!!!



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Old 22 May 2009, 07:11 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeamasterGMT View Post
That's YOUR opinion. My Deepsea is neither tacky or obnoxious thank you very much. I think the larger watches suit those who are more active / sporty in their lifestyle. I have different watches for different occasions. My 36mm Raymond Weil goes very well with shirt and tie but looks like a fashion faux pas with shorts and T-shirt.
I wouldn't wear my 36mm Gold Tissot on the beach - my father did but he was in his 50s / 60s. I'm in my 30s and would look like a young fogey wearing a gold 36mm watch on the beach. When jogging, swimming, mountain biking, jet skiing etc or simply cooking a BBQ - Deepsea or Seamaster. I think Rolex certainly needed to modernize otherwise it would run out of new customers and only be selling to their long-in-the-tooth customers with one foot in the grave and the other on a banana skin.
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Old 22 May 2009, 07:13 PM   #23
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Yikes that sounds like a meeting at JJ's Octogenarian Kiwi Group!!!!!!!!!!



J
free chocolate frogs though
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Old 22 May 2009, 07:19 PM   #24
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I personally have no issues with the different sizes being offered. It doesn't bother me that my 116710 is blocky, or that my 114270 is 36mm, I've had a 42mm Breitling and currently am awaiting a 44mm Pam but I go back and forth with the different sizes without any problem. My son, on the otherhand has a 42mm Breitling, a 44mm Panerai,
a 40mm Omega and a 36mm DJ his grandfather left him. He hardly wears the Omega and never wears the DJ because they just seem too small to him. I think if Rolex wants to continue being the dominant player in the midluxury watch market they have to build watches that appeal to the younger generations just now entering their 30's and gaining some degree of affluency. Otherwise as the poster above said Rolex will become the watch of us old fogeys. (ouch)
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Old 22 May 2009, 07:59 PM   #25
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Personally I think a 39mm DayDate would have been more appropriate and very nice. The extra 2mm seems to be just for shock value.
x2!

couldnt agree with you more.
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Old 22 May 2009, 08:01 PM   #26
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40mm suits me just fine so is my Omega 42mm. A 40mm supercase would work wonders on my wrist.
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Old 22 May 2009, 08:47 PM   #27
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Again, i think we should 'reverse think' on the DS. Starting with a 3135 movement, what kind of case makes it down to 4km? If those who have domain knowledge say that the SD4000 case can actually already make it down that deep already, then i concede that i may have chosen that smaller size. But if to house the 3135 and intend for it go down repeatedly to 4km mandates a case and crystal of that size, then it is a product of function over form. End of story.
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Old 22 May 2009, 10:18 PM   #28
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Larger trend in watches is not a fad but reality, Daytona will probably get bumped up as well.. After wearing my Panerai's it does seem a bit small.
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Old 22 May 2009, 10:23 PM   #29
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Trendy and stylish are two different things.

While big watches will be trendy (and perhaps stylish at the same time) a 35mm DJ will always be stylish. And no, they aren't a girls watch..
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Old 22 May 2009, 10:37 PM   #30
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Quote:
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Personally I think a 39mm DayDate would have been more appropriate and very nice. The extra 2mm seems to be just for shock value.

So long as they keep letting people have the option, I don't care whether or not they choose to sell the bigger watches.
agreed, 39mm would have been perfection in my eyes
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