Dress Pieces - VC Patrimony, Traditionnelle, or Fifty-Six

[RaZCaL]

I am looking to purchase a dress watch as my next piece. This will be my first and probably only dress watch for that rare dressy occasion. I love VC and narrowed it down to these three within the 20k range. I have a 7” wrist. Which would you choose? Any other suggestions would be much appreciated!







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[beshannon]

The Traditionelle is the consumate Vacheron. I recently consolidated my collection and moved up to one and I am very happy. Everything about the Traditionelle is what I want in a watch.

[jjnd08]

For Vacheron, I would do the Traditionnalle.

I would personally go for a Lange 1, 1815 up/down, or the white gold Saxonia Thin Adventurine dial (a little above the 20k mark, but a nice size at 39mm).

[ap1]

Your 2nd one. That’s the epitome of a simple dress piece and the backside view also plays the part. Check out the old Hodinkee video, three dress watches for under 20k. I should add, I miss it

[Bug04]

Traditionnelle!

[vitalsigns]

Definitely the Traditionelle. The Patrimony (at 40mm) is too big and flat for a dress watch for a 7" wrist IMO and the Fifty-Six just isn't as nice as the Traditionelle, the latter of which has a nicer movement and plays dress watch better than the Fifty-Six.

[noobs]

I tried them all
- the patrimony in white, rose or yellow gold + white dial (with or without date) felt a bit plain, and maybe catered to an older crowed. The blue dial really popped though.
- the traditionelle complete calendar is stunning, but in the $40k range
- i didn't connect with any of the variations of the fifty-six (calendar, day date and regular). Something about the lungs made the watches look small (on my already small wrist).

[ts3]

Another vote for the Traditionelle which is one of my favorites among simple manual wind dress watches. So much prettier than Patek's 6119, for example, no matter if looking at the front or at the back side.

[ChetBaker]

The 56 but not this one. Get the day-date, which I find to be a more interesting watch than the traditionelle. More versatile too.

[Jmaster]

I would say the Traditionnelle wins if you’re looking for a classic dress watch with a silver/white dial. The 3 tiered case and the dial design are both very classic VC elements, and it’s case size of 38mm is more classic. I found the Patrimony way too big for my 6.5 inch wrist and probably too big for most people. I think they over did it with the size. Most people thinks that the 3 hander fifty six is probably a class below the Traditionnelle or the Patrimony with the Cartier movement and no Geneva seal.

However, I went with the fifty six complete calendar because I love the blue dial. I also love that the watch is also surprising modern with many tradition VC design elements, which is very different than the other two. You have to handle it to see if that’s what you like. I prefer a calendar watch and the Traditionnelle version has a thicker overall design and does come with a blue dial. Overall, I’m happy with my choice but I might end up getting the 3 hander Traditionnelle…

[Wcdhtwn]

Traditionnelle

[danwang0520]

Traditionnelle > Patrimony and I wouldn't consider fifty-six.........

the Traditionnelle line is the epitome of VC dress watch, very classy dress watch with its signature track elements

the Patrimony just seems plain however, it caters to older crowd on what a classic dress watch looks(as simple as possible)

the Fifty-Six is the entry level dress watch and I wouldn't consider if getting a VC, some of the movements are sourced from third party manufacturer......it's just not on par with VC quality


Current collection: 1) Rolex Submariner(116610LV), 2) Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional(311.30.42.30.01.006), 3) Rolex GMT-Master II(126710BLNR), 4) Breitling B01 Navitimer 43(AB0138211B1A1)

[CNY]

Traditionnelle is simply perfect. I ended up with a Lange for my dress watch, but would have chosen the Traditionnelle of the VC options. They’re available at boutiques (and I assume ADs), but also have a decent discount on the secondary.

[philhendrix]

Originally Posted by CNY

Traditionnelle is simply perfect. I ended up with a Lange for my dress watch, but would have chosen the Traditionnelle of the VC options. They’re available at boutiques (and I assume ADs), but also have a decent discount on the secondary.

Which Lange did you get? Happy with the watch?



I agree with people above, the Patrimony is too big. I tried it before and I figured it suits people with 7 inch wrists or above.

[ChetBaker]

Originally Posted by danwang0520

the Fifty-Six is the entry level dress watch and I wouldn't consider if getting a VC, some of the movements are sourced from third party manufacturer......it's just not on par with VC quality

Disagree. Only the time and date is the true entry level piece and misses the VC movement. All the others have Geneva Seal on case and movement. I own the Day-Date and Complete Calendar, have owned an Overseas and have handled both the Traditionelle and Patrimony and the FiftySix is every bit as good, if not better. Let’s not forget the FiftySix is available in steel (which, had it been a Patek, it would have been a big plus) so you’re not paying for the material but for the fantastic case design and very good dial finishing. I agree with some of the comments that between the Patrimony and Traditionelle, I would pick the latter. See-through caseback, very nice movement and lovely case whereas the Patrimony has a closed caseback and very simple case design. And it’s frankly a tad big. Good luck with the hunt OP, great choices.

[jed11]

Don't sleep on the Fifty-Six as others have mentioned...I went with the 'basic' time and date only model with the grey dial. Basic for VC is head and shoulders above most brands/watches. It's a very versatile piece.

[danwang0520]

Originally Posted by ChetBaker

Disagree. Only the time and date is the true entry level piece and misses the VC movement. All the others have Geneva Seal on case and movement. I own the Day-Date and Complete Calendar, have owned an Overseas and have handled both the Traditionelle and Patrimony and the FiftySix is every bit as good, if not better. Let’s not forget the FiftySix is available in steel (which, had it been a Patek, it would have been a big plus) so you’re not paying for the material but for the fantastic case design and very good dial finishing. I agree with some of the comments that between the Patrimony and Traditionelle, I would pick the latter. See-through caseback, very nice movement and lovely case whereas the Patrimony has a closed caseback and very simple case design. And it’s frankly a tad big. Good luck with the hunt OP, great choices.

Look at the pictures that OP has posted, he/she wants a classic dress watches as shown in the screenshot. In a traditional sense, a clean watch that has no complication and at most, a date complication for the rare dressy occasion.

The Fifty-Six line from VC is akin to a C-Class or 3-Series entry level, and per stated herein from Hodinkee, Monochrome, and SJX:
https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/th...x-self-winding
https://watchesbysjx.com/2018/01/how...-fiftysix.html
https://monochrome-watches.com/vache...hh-2018-price/

The self-winding watch movement is sourced from Valfleurier and finished by VC; of course, the more complicated complication(calendar/day-date/tourbillon) comes from VC itself with Geneva seal. This is entry-level compared to the Traditionelle or Patrimony time or date self-winding version. If I were to buy more complicated complication, I would choose from Patrimony or Traditonelle line instead. It's like choosing between from a C63/M3 or Maybach/S-Class. The Fifty-Six is targeted at younger generation of watch enthusiasts, and it is a modern take of what a dress watch is.

Different people have different tastes and it's a subjective matter, and look at the thread, many people opt and vote for the Traditionelle line since it's the most classic dress watch offered by VC. It's a choice of the connoisseur.



Current collection: 1) Rolex Submariner(116610LV), 2) Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional(311.30.42.30.01.006), 3) Rolex GMT-Master II(126710BLNR), 4) Breitling B01 Navitimer 43(AB0138211B1A1)

[JF100]

As a huge VC fan... definitely the traditionelle.

Fifty six is a nice collection but for what you are after, and if you have the budget - take the traditonelle.

[ChetBaker]

Originally Posted by danwang0520

Look at the pictures that OP has posted, he/she wants a classic dress watches as shown in the screenshot. In a traditional sense, a clean watch that has no complication and at most, a date complication for the rare dressy occasion.

The Fifty-Six line from VC is akin to a C-Class or 3-Series entry level, and per stated herein from Hodinkee, Monochrome, and SJX:
https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/th...x-self-winding
https://watchesbysjx.com/2018/01/how...-fiftysix.html
https://monochrome-watches.com/vache...hh-2018-price/

The self-winding watch movement is sourced from Valfleurier and finished by VC; of course, the more complicated complication(calendar/day-date/tourbillon) comes from VC itself with Geneva seal. This is entry-level compared to the Traditionelle or Patrimony time or date self-winding version. If I were to buy more complicated complication, I would choose from Patrimony or Traditonelle line instead. It's like choosing between from a C63/M3 or Maybach/S-Class. The Fifty-Six is targeted at younger generation of watch enthusiasts, and it is a modern take of what a dress watch is.

Different people have different tastes and it's a subjective matter, and look at the thread, many people opt and vote for the Traditionelle line since it's the most classic dress watch offered by VC. It's a choice of the connoisseur.

Gotcha. I read your comments as to apply to the entire 56 line, which I would have disagreed with. Out of the three in the OP, the Traditionelle.

[CNY]

Originally Posted by philhendrix

Which Lange did you get? Happy with the watch?

Lange 1 pink gold 191.023. Yes. I was looking for my first, and ideally only, dress watch. Appreciate it's not as 'traditional' as a Saxonia Thin or Traditionnelle, but it's perfect for me.

My criteria were:

1) established – the maker should be known for dress watches / fine watchmaking. So, no Rolex or AP, for example.

2) classic – the watch should be sub 40mm, no seconds or small seconds, etc.

3) available – because I would pay a good bit more than I had for my previous watches (e.g., 16710 ~10 years ago), I wanted to purchase direct through an AD or boutique. Get the whole luxury experience vs haggling at the diamond district.

So, this left me with a few front runners:

1) Patek – I loved the fact that the Calatrava created the dress watch category. But, I was told to pound sand or 'grow my relationship' when I walked into a few New York ADs. The attitude around the Patek brand ultimately turned me off.

2) Vacheron – I had always loved their high-end dials, and had a great time at their boutique. The Traditionnelle was fantastic, but not very differentiated. So, I figured I owed it to myself to check out that German shop I'd heard of a few times...

3) Lange – I didn't know much about these guys at the start. I started by looking at the Saxonia Thin, then saw the Up / Down, Zeitwerk, Datograph, etc. This put me down a deep rabbit hole, and I came out the other end wanting the iconic Lange 1. It was ~double what I had planned to pay, but the dial and history made it all worth it for me.

If I wanted a classic dress watch, I would have gone with the Traditionnelle.

[danwang0520]

Originally Posted by CNY

Lange 1 pink gold 191.023. Yes. I was looking for my first, and ideally only, dress watch. Appreciate it's not as 'traditional' as a Saxonia Thin or Traditionnelle, but it's perfect for me.

My criteria were:

1) established – the maker should be known for dress watches / fine watchmaking. So, no Rolex or AP, for example.

2) classic – the watch should be sub 40mm, no seconds or small seconds, etc.

3) available – because I would pay a good bit more than I had for my previous watches (e.g., 16710 ~10 years ago), I wanted to purchase direct through an AD or boutique. Get the whole luxury experience vs haggling at the diamond district.

So, this left me with a few front runners:

1) Patek – I loved the fact that the Calatrava created the dress watch category. But, I was told to pound sand or 'grow my relationship' when I walked into a few New York ADs. The attitude around the Patek brand ultimately turned me off.

2) Vacheron – I had always loved their high-end dials, and had a great time at their boutique. The Traditionnelle was fantastic, but not very differentiated. So, I figured I owed it to myself to check out that German shop I'd heard of a few times...

3) Lange – I didn't know much about these guys at the start. I started by looking at the Saxonia Thin, then saw the Up / Down, Zeitwerk, Datograph, etc. This put me down a deep rabbit hole, and I came out the other end wanting the iconic Lange 1. It was ~double what I had planned to pay, but the dial and history made it all worth it for me.

If I wanted a classic dress watch, I would have gone with the Traditionnelle.

Lange 1 is still an excellent choice with its distinctive German off-centred dial and simple to read design. The finishing is highly detailed and the movement is exquisite and just amazing.



Current collection: 1) Rolex Submariner(116610LV), 2) Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional(311.30.42.30.01.006), 3) Rolex GMT-Master II(126710BLNR), 4) Breitling B01 Navitimer 43(AB0138211B1A1)

[jed11]

Decided to switch to the fifty six before the clock strikes midnight…thought I’d share a pic. Note, I do also own a Lange 1 in white gold. An equally versatile watch in my opinion but this VC can be more of a daily given that it’s in SS. And I think the dial has more casual vibes…



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[robinmgb]

Originally Posted by ts3

Another vote for the Traditionelle which is one of my favorites among simple manual wind dress watches. So much prettier than Patek's 6119, for example, no matter if looking at the front or at the back side.

Totally agree, Traditionelle is simply the best looking dress watch on the market from any brand imo.

[RaZCaL]

Thank you all for the inputs! I think I’ve made up my mind and will look into the VC Traditionnelle. Now let’s see if the boutique has one available for me to try on.

[d.n.d.]

To avoid making another near-identical thread, I am considering a VC dress watch as well. But instead of a 40mm patrimony, what about the 36mm patrimony? In the same sunburst blue.

Either a 36 patrimony or the 38 traditionnelle, on a 6.5in wrist.

[Ichiran]

Originally Posted by d.n.d.

To avoid making another near-identical thread, I am considering a VC dress watch as well. But instead of a 40mm patrimony, what about the 36mm patrimony? In the same sunburst blue.

Either a 36 patrimony or the 38 traditionnelle, on a 6.5in wrist.

If you are thinking of a 38mm dress watch, would you consider Lange 1815 instead? Otherwise the 38mm Traditionelle is my choice of the 2.

[d.n.d.]

Originally Posted by Ichiran

If you are thinking of a 38mm dress watch, would you consider Lange 1815 instead? Otherwise the 38mm Traditionelle is my choice of the 2.

I looked into Lange actually, but my local AD said they cannot request anything from Germany. They only get whatever they receive :/ The 1815 is a bit out of my budget anyways, the Saxonia automatic or Saxonia manual wind would be more in my price range.

Thanks for the confirmation!

[KeithP]

The second pic. Hands down. Ben Clymer wrote an amazing piece on the Traditionnelle, especially on the remarkable movement inside, way back in early hodinkee days. A three on three I believe. Worth a search.
Enjoy the journey!

[Mutsu]

I was in the same situation with Traditionelle and Patrimony.

Seeing them both in person, the Traditionelle was my favorite by a long way. But then to my disappointment, I tried it on and it just didn't sit well on my wrist (I think I'm 7.5"). As it's 38mm and quite thick it looked and felt a bit odd.

The Patrimony didn't feel quite right either.

The SA brough out a Traditionelle complete calendar at 41mm and it was perfect for my wrist.

Originally I wanted a dress watch with no complications - now I'm unsure as I'm pretty set on another VC.

[Mutsu]

Oh, and while I love the Fifty Six, the hands are more sporty looking to me and I consider it more of a smart casual watch.