Dress Shoes

[Armyguy03]

I was in the market for dress shoes the other day, and my little brother told me that a man should always go conservative, and get wing tip shoes (Black, Brown, and Brogue). He stated that they are timeless, and show a level of maturity for the dresser. How many would agree, disagree, or offer another shoe opinion? For my casual days I tend to find myself in some type of Clark's shoes (super comfy and look awesome).

The reason the topic came up is because I have found myself shopping less and less for jeans (due to insane prices) and grabbing khaki type pants for off duty wear. Also, silly as it seems, when I put my Rolex on, I want to look my best, although I will admit that I am a "Sale" and "Clearance" trooper, if it's not on sale, I never by. The deals you can get on some pants are insane. I picked up a 110 pair of khaki pants for 2 dollars at Off Saks 5th Ave a few months ago.

[Adam.]

Originally Posted by Armyguy03

I was in the market for dress shoes the other day, and my little brother told me that a man should always go conservative, and get wing tip shoes (Black, Brown, and Brogue). He stated that they are timeless, and show a level of maturity for the dresser. How many would agree, disagree, or offer another shoe opinion? For my casual days I tend to find myself in some type of Clark's shoes (super comfy and look awesome).

The reason the topic came up is because I have found myself shopping less and less for jeans (due to insane prices) and grabbing khaki type pants for off duty wear. Also, silly as it seems, when I put my Rolex on, I want to look my best, although I will admit that I am a "Sale" and "Clearance" trooper, if it's not on sale, I never by. The deals you can get on some pants are insane. I picked up a 110 pair of khaki pants for 2 dollars at Off Saks 5th Ave a few months ago.

The most formal shoes are black captoes. Stay away from square toes.

Everything else is less formal.

Brown is more casual a color. Wingtips are more casual.

My advice is invest in 2 pairs of good dress shoes, and make one of them black captoes. You don't want to wear shoes two days in a row. If you put them in cedar shoe trees inbetween wears, the shoes will last forever, they won't smell, and they will keep their shape. Invest in Bruno Magli or better. Santoni is very nice. Avoid Allen Edmonds. At one time they were the best value in mens dress shoes, but now they are using inferior leather that will crease badly.

BTW, when you look at the price and see $500 or more, don't worry about it. If you take care of those shoes, they will last you 10 years. In the long run you will save money.

[dddrees]

There are a number of different ways one can choose to go. It all depends on ones' style and ones' budget.

I think it's always best to buy the best that you can afford to buy. One of the advantages of buying in that $300 range and higher is that you can have them re-soled when necessary if you buy the right kind.

The other thing of course is that you can even find these $300 and higher shoes for less if you know where to look.

The choice is yours, however I would highly recommend that you start your research here:

http://www.styleforum.net/f/5/classic-menswear

http://www.styleforum.net/f/13/streetwear-and-denim

[GermanyMatt]

I'm more of a cap-toe and split-toe type.

As far as casual, I'm almost always in driving mocs.

[36475koz]

I like Allen Edmonds dress shoes. They wear like iron, most can be re-soled, great customer service, and (if it's important to you) they're made in the USA. Additionally, their "seconds" are a good value, and better than many companies' A-1 product. Should last you 10 years or more.

[conrail]

Originally Posted by 36475koz

I like Allen Edmonds dress shoes. They wear like iron, most can be re-soled, great customer service, and (if it's important to you) they're made in the USA. Additionally, their "seconds" are a good value, and better than many companies' A-1 product. Should last you 10 years or more.

x2. AEs are excellent quality, but like many shoe companies these days, they are offering cheaper quality shoes (sub $200 price range) - so be aware of what you are getting from them.

I tend to stick to Oxfords and I love their McAllister and Park Ave shoes for work. If you have some patience and hunt around on places like eBay you can get some really nice shoes, only worn a handful of times, that are as good as new if you give them some TLC with good polish and creams.

Aldens, Church's, and many other British brands also make excellent conservative shoes, but I stick to AE because they're the only top brand I can find that makes my size (15).

[seabreeze]

Agreed. A nice pair of Allen edmunds chestnut wing tips can be worn dressed up or down. They are timeless

You could also select black, Or if you wanted to have a little stylish fun With your casual attire consider AE NeuMoks. They are very new and fresh and some fun colors

[Adam.]

Originally Posted by 36475koz

I like Allen Edmonds dress shoes. They wear like iron, most can be re-soled, great customer service, and (if it's important to you) they're made in the USA. Additionally, their "seconds" are a good value, and better than many companies' A-1 product. Should last you 10 years or more.

That is Allen Edmonds of old.

I purchased Allen Edmonds Strands about six months ago. I have a dozen dress shoes. The Allen Edmond Strands look worse and are creased worse than shoes that are 5 years old that I have worn more than 600 times. I wore the Strands less than a dozen time.

Allen Edmonds is buying lower quality leather and it shows.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by conrail

x2. AEs are excellent quality, but like many shoe companies these days, they are offering cheaper quality shoes (sub $200 price range) - so be aware of what you are getting from them.

I tend to stick to Oxfords and I love their McAllister and Park Ave shoes for work. If you have some patience and hunt around on places like eBay you can get some really nice shoes, only worn a handful of times, that are as good as new if you give them some TLC with good polish and creams.

Aldens, Church's, and many other British brands also make excellent conservative shoes, but I stick to AE because they're the only top brand I can find that makes my size (15).

If you do decide to buy Allen Edmonds and your able to shop at the Exchange Online Store you can get them for a decent price.

In fact not only can you buy the ones they list on the website you can usually get most of the models they don't list. There is a way to request other models and they'll reply if it's possible and what it will cost.

In most cases you can save about $100 if not more. This is for firsts and not seconds by the way and they will come from Allen Edmonds..

[JasoninDenver]

Originally Posted by Adam.

That is Allen Edmonds of old.

I purchased Allen Edmonds Strands about six months ago. I have a dozen dress shoes. The Allen Edmond Strands look worse and are creased worse than shoes that are 5 years old that I have worn more than 600 times. I wore the Strands less than a dozen time.

Allen Edmonds is buying lower quality leather and it shows.

I would have to say that I do agree with this to a point.

I have several pair of their dress shoes and all are of uniformly excellent quality.

However, I have noticed a substantial and distressing drop in quality control in their casual offerings. Tongues sewn in crooked. Heel forms offset. A noticeable difference in width between two shoes of the same pair. Clearly mismatched leathers on the same pair.

I hope this is not a harbinger of things to come. My next few pairs will likely be British if so.

[seabreeze]

Before this becomes a post about AE quality - and I am also guilty by mentioning a brand - I think the OP was asking about the appropriateness of wing tips and dressing a bit better. And I agree, wings tips are classic and timeless and very versatile.

Another option for khakis is of course penny loafers. For an all American traditional look.

[conrail]

Originally Posted by dddrees

If you do decide to buy Allen Edmonds and your able to shop at the Exchange Online Store you can get them for a decent price.

In fact not only can you buy the ones they list on the website you can usually get most of the models they don't list. There is a way to request other models and they'll reply if it's possible and what it will cost.

In most cases you can save about $100 if not more. This is for firsts and not seconds by the way and they will come from Allen Edmonds..

Where is their Exchange Online Store? Couldn't find it.

Originally Posted by JasoninDenver

I would have to say that I do agree with this to a point.

I have several pair of their dress shoes and all are of uniformly excellent quality.

However, I have noticed a substantial and distressing drop in quality control in their casual offerings. Tongues sewn in crooked. Heel forms offset. A noticeable difference in width between two shoes of the same pair. Clearly mismatched leathers on the same pair.

I hope this is not a harbinger of things to come. My next few pairs will likely be British if so.

Is it really that noticeable with their new shoes - even higher end models? Most of my shoes are prob 2-3 years old at this point.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by conrail

Where is their Exchange Online Store? Couldn't find it.



Is it really that noticeable with their new shoes - even higher end models? Most of my shoes are prob 2-3 years old at this point.

I should have been more specific. This would actually be the Military Exchange store for current and retired U.S. military.


https://shop.aafes.com/shop/Default.aspx

[Darlinboy]

Cap toe is the way to go IMO. Allen Edmunds Park Avenues have been my go-to for years. They wear well, and can be recrafted to look as new at least once and sometimes twice.

Bottom line, you've got to like them, so go with your style preference.

[SUBversive]

Shouldn't this thread be up in the girls coffee shop?

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by SUBversive

Shouldn't this thread be up in the girls coffee shop?

No!!


If they want to learn something about shoes, they can come down here just like everybody else.

[Adam.]

Originally Posted by conrail

Is it really that noticeable with their new shoes - even higher end models? Most of my shoes are prob 2-3 years old at this point.

The decline in quality started about a year and a half ago.

I have Allen Edmonds from 4 years ago that are in good shape.

The Strands come from the same line as the Park Avenues.

The AE CEO had an account at AskAndyAboutCloths and was quick to reply to what members said about quality control and designs. Back then it was mostly posts from people asking for designs to come back, not complaints. Once quality went down, he stopped replying. I think AE made a decision to cash the check. They experienced amazing growth, could not keep up demand, and rather than stay focused on quality while not meeting demand, AE started using inferior leather to push shoes out the doors and maximize profits.

[Armyguy03]

Thanks for the tips TRF!!!

Went with three pair of Mercanti Fiorentini (Black, Brown, and Brogue) and picked up three shoe trees from AE since they have a 2 for 1 deal on them. Guess I'm going to have to break out my good ol' shoe polishing skills from my basic training days to whip these into shape.

[Rbdport]

Originally Posted by Armyguy03

Thanks for the tips TRF!!!

Went with three pair of Mercanti Fiorentini (Black, Brown, and Brogue) and picked up three shoe trees from AE since they have a 2 for 1 deal on them. Guess I'm going to have to break out my good ol' shoe polishing skills from my basic training days to whip these into shape.

Don't spit shine them! My daddy was a career Army guy. He actually took classes when he was getting ready to retire on civilian dress. I married a guy who joined the military at 17, delayed entry for 1 year, 6 years active, 15 reserves. He was a civilian LEO for 20 years. He's been a chef for 7 years now. In other words, he's worn a uniform since he was 18. Poor bastard has no idea how clothes work together. I keep his off-time clothes limited to a narrow palate so if I'm not home he can still look ok. I have invested in just 2 custom suits with a few shirts and ties that will mix/match and I label his dress shoes (all 4 pairs of them) for which pair to wear with what suit. And he is NOT allowed to polish them. I take them regularly to a shoe shop for cleaning/polishing.

[Armyguy03]

Originally Posted by Rbdport

Don't spit shine them! My daddy was a career Army guy. He actually took classes when he was getting ready to retire on civilian dress. I married a guy who joined the military at 17, delayed entry for 1 year, 6 years active, 15 reserves. He was a civilian LEO for 20 years. He's been a chef for 7 years now. In other words, he's worn a uniform since he was 18. Poor bastard has no idea how clothes work together. I keep his off-time clothes limited to a narrow palate so if I'm not home he can still look ok. I have invested in just 2 custom suits with a few shirts and ties that will mix/match and I label his dress shoes (all 4 pairs of them) for which pair to wear with what suit. And he is NOT allowed to polish them. I take them regularly to a shoe shop for cleaning/polishing.

This made me . No spit shining around this parts. I joined the Army at the end of highly polished boots when we transitioned over to tan boots. I remember the days spent trying to work that perfect shine. Thanks for the heads up, but just a light coat of polish and a quick brush shine should do after every two times worn. You won't see a reflection in these bad boyz.

[bimmerboy]

Most of my casual shoes are Hugo boss looks great with my designer jeans. I have a special pair of dress shoes from Brasil they know how to make great leather shoes.

[SPARTAN2161]

Originally Posted by dddrees

There are a number of different ways one can choose to go. It all depends on ones' style and ones' budget.

I think it's always best to buy the best that you can afford to buy. One of the advantages of buying in that $300 range and higher is that you can have them re-soled when necessary if you buy the right kind.

The other thing of course is that you can even find these $300 and higher shoes for less if you know where to look.

The choice is yours, however I would highly recommend that you start your research here:

http://www.styleforum.net/f/5/classic-menswear

http://www.styleforum.net/f/13/streetwear-and-denim

x2 Dan couldn't of said it any better. Definitely invest in your shoes. Like Dan mentioned you can get them re-soled and realistically they will last longer than you will probably want to wear them at that point.

[SPARTAN2161]

Originally Posted by JasoninDenver

I would have to say that I do agree with this to a point.

I have several pair of their dress shoes and all are of uniformly excellent quality.

However, I have noticed a substantial and distressing drop in quality control in their casual offerings. Tongues sewn in crooked. Heel forms offset. A noticeable difference in width between two shoes of the same pair. Clearly mismatched leathers on the same pair.

I hope this is not a harbinger of things to come. My next few pairs will likely be British if so.

Before you go "British" check out Alden. They are very nice and high quality!

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by Rbdport

Don't spit shine them! My daddy was a career Army guy. He actually took classes when he was getting ready to retire on civilian dress. I married a guy who joined the military at 17, delayed entry for 1 year, 6 years active, 15 reserves. He was a civilian LEO for 20 years. He's been a chef for 7 years now. In other words, he's worn a uniform since he was 18. Poor bastard has no idea how clothes work together. I keep his off-time clothes limited to a narrow palate so if I'm not home he can still look ok. I have invested in just 2 custom suits with a few shirts and ties that will mix/match and I label his dress shoes (all 4 pairs of them) for which pair to wear with what suit. And he is NOT allowed to polish them. I take them regularly to a shoe shop for cleaning/polishing.

Nothing wrong with spit shinning the toe and heel. Some shoes and boots will actually look pretty good this way. Cap Toes especially. It's probably best not to do this on the vamp however, as cracking can become an issue.

When it comes to polish however, a good rule of thumb is less is more, and keeping them properly cleaned and conditioned is extremely important. Especially for shoes you plan on keeping for a good long while.

[conrail]

Originally Posted by Adam.

The decline in quality started about a year and a half ago.

I have Allen Edmonds from 4 years ago that are in good shape.

The Strands come from the same line as the Park Avenues.

The AE CEO had an account at AskAndyAboutCloths and was quick to reply to what members said about quality control and designs. Back then it was mostly posts from people asking for designs to come back, not complaints. Once quality went down, he stopped replying. I think AE made a decision to cash the check. They experienced amazing growth, could not keep up demand, and rather than stay focused on quality while not meeting demand, AE started using inferior leather to push shoes out the doors and maximize profits.

Ah yea I remember reading that post. Too bad if the quality issue was an affirmative choice. They're the only good shoes I can buy that fit me great off the rack in my size. I could go bespoke...but...that's $$$.

[conrail]

Originally Posted by dddrees

I should have been more specific. This would actually be the Military Exchange store for current and retired U.S. military.


https://shop.aafes.com/shop/Default.aspx

Yea that won't work for me - and bugmenot.com doesn't have any passwords I can use ;-)

[renfield33]

i have a pair of black captoe allen edmonds, brown church's brogues and some cordovan wingtips that i occasionally wear.

i'm not sure what the difference is between brogues and wingtips, but brogues are actually supposed to be casual shoes.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by renfield33

i have a pair of black captoe allen edmonds, brown church's brogues and some cordovan wingtips that i occasionally wear.

i'm not sure what the difference is between brogues and wingtips, but brogues are actually supposed to be casual shoes.

From Wikipedia:

The Brogue (derived from the Gaelic "bróg") is a style of low-heeled shoe or boot traditionally characterized by multiple-piece, sturdy leather uppers with decorative perforations (or "broguing") and serration along the pieces' visible edges.[1] Modern brogues trace their roots to a rudimentary shoe originating in Scotland and Ireland that was constructed using untanned hide with perforations, allowing water to drain when crossing wet terrain such as a bog.[2][3] Brogues were traditionally considered to be outdoor or country footwear not otherwise appropriate for casual or business occasions, but brogues are now considered appropriate in most contexts.[4] Brogues are most commonly found in one of four toe cap styles (full or "wingtip", semi-, quarter and longwing) and four closure styles (oxford, derby, ghillie, and monk). Today, in addition to their typical form of sturdy leather shoes or boots, brogues may also take the form of business dress shoes, sneakers, high-heeled women's shoes, or any other shoe form that utilizes or evokes the multi-piece construction and perforated, serrated piece edges characteristic of brogues.

[Armyguy03]

I guess I used the name of the shoe and not the color. The Brogue shoes are a light brown/tan color. They are pretty nice. Here are the black ones.