Rolex Corporate Direction (A Friendly Discussion)

[Tools]

Originally Posted by Tudor Fan

I think one should not forget that Roles IS also Tudor. And some other threads here on this forum regarding Tudor v. Rolex have shown to me that the people who swear only on Rolex are hung up on the name and crown-image rather than the watches themselves while the one who particularly love the tool-watch aspect (which includes me) appreciate Tudor just as much. . . .

I don't think that folks forget that a Tudor is a Rolex.. I believe that Rolex is specifically targeting Tudor as a competitor for Tissot, Tag, and even Omega..

However, they lose any credible following or reasonable fan-base in the USA because they do not sell in the USA..

Tudor does not have the diamond encrusted, precious metal dinosaurs as a legacy and so I think that they would have a large, young and dynamic following... When that happens though, perhaps Rolex will lose the Sub, GMT and Explorer faithful..

[Lew Archer]

A few thoughts...

First, we are dealing with a mature technology, with centuries of development in its rear view mirror. While there have been advances recently, they are not the great leaps and bounds that one sees in the IT world.

So, it would be unrealistic to expect frequent bursts of amazing mechanical design brilliance. Last year, Rolex had an innovative product in the Skydweller. That had to represent a significant portion of its R&D efforts and resources. It takes time to innovate...so, I'm not surprised that this year's offerings are essentially cosmetic changes to the existing line.

Where cosmetics are concerned, tastes vary, and often by region. And certainly, by gender, generation, etc. So, reactions to this year's cosmetic changes will vary, too.

This year's Rolex presentations were efforts to offer a variety of products to a variety of markets...and to satisfy the Basel expectation: to offer something "new" to the watch world.

I'm sure the new GMT, for instance, was aimed, in part, at the male tool watch enthusiast, with a nod to Rolex GMT history and tradition. Once again, we have a bi-color dial. We can debate the color scheme, but, tool-wise, I suspect the color scheme offers the same functional benefit as the revered Pepsi and the beloved Coke bezels. As a "tool", it will perform as well as its predecessors.

The new Daytona is aimed at a different market altogether. But this is the same market that already purchase watches of stratospheric cost...the full gold and platinum Rolexes.

The new Yachtmaster II expands the reach of that model's design developments.

The rest of the offerings are so simply cosmetic changes, so as to offer something "new", for that is the expectation at Basel.

As for the tool vs. jewelry debate...I certainly favor the "tool" Rolex. My White dial SS Daytona is as far in the jewelry direction as I would ever go, regardless of funds. My all time favorite Rolex remains the Submariner (and with no date).

But, realistically, Rolex may make so-called "tool" watches, but, given the cost, their current watches for are for the wealthy. How much does a steel Sub go for? To a professional diver, modern computer technology is likely more critical than the mechanical wristwatch that is largely a symbol of the profession. Likewise the chronographs. Do race car drivers really rely on their Daytonas to race? Or is again more of a symbol of their profession? Do pilots and world travelers really need their GMTs to keep track of time zones, when their smartphones automatically do so, and more precisely, with less effort? Flyers, drivers and divers, if they have the means, will continue to buy these watches, but more for their emotional/symbolic meaning than their practical value.

Would an airline, today, contract with Rolex for a watch for its pilots, so they could easily keep track of time zone changes? No. When Rolex developed the GMT, things were different. Likewise, the development of the dive watches. At one time, they were essential equipment to the professional. How critical is the watch today, to the professional diver, given the use of dive computers? Does a mechanical dive watch still have a use to the professional diver? Surely, but it is no longer mission critical gear.

So, I suspect, Rolex recognizes that it's products are not strictly essential tools of certain adventure oriented professions or glamorous lifestyles and so will not depend upon that market for its continued growth. It will continue to make those "tool" watches because so many buyers want them--often for their association, historically, with adventure.

But that is not its only market share.

Rolex, after all, is a Swiss business...and big money lies in exclusivity and jewelry. At least, Rolex seems to think so.

[ChrashM]

Originally Posted by JimSnyder

The new Rolex just make the old Rolex look better

Couldn't agree more. Completely satisfied with the "old" and have no need for ceramic anything. Now if I could only get my Milgauss GV back from my wife.

[lig]

Well stated, Mr. Archer.

[Olav16710]

Originally Posted by Cru Jones

Or........they are making products that the majority of Rolex buyers want, and this is the period of time that wants these watches.

There are plenty of watches for the luxury tool watch crowd, and, increasingly, watches for those that want a Rolex because it's jewelry.

But, lets look at the watches....a new black and blue GMT? Normally, a good thing! And a bi-color bezel? Cool. Okay, I don't like the colors, but that's personal taste.

SS YMII? If anything, this disproves the theory of this thread! It's making a great movement more accessible in a package that looks better than the WG model.

Day-Date colors? One, it harkens back to the stellas. Two, they are pretty classy and cool, IMO. You can like or dislike the color choices, but, they are all Day Dates and pretty timeless.

Look at the root beer GMT....today, everyone thinks it's "classic". But, truth be told, it's a pretty extreme color combo, and my guess is, if it had come out yesterday, everyone would have been upset. To be clear, I do like it. ;-)

The diamond models? Who cares? They make some people happy, and Rolex has been making them for decades. Nothing new here.

Now, the new Daytona? Personally, I think it rocks. Platinum, glacier dial, new unique ceramic color? Nice! And I think in real lighting, not the harsh display lighting, it will look good. Worth the price? No. If I had the money? No. But, I'm certain some people will like it, and that's what it's all about.

Yes

[shnxx]

Yes Rolex is a luxury product but that doesn't change the fact that their movements are more like tool watch movements.
I'm sure they hires the mck, bcg and Bain consultants to do their market research but as a potential customer I don't agree with their pricing strategy.


And once again I'm not sure all this conjecture about Asian demand for tacky watches is correct.
I certainly don't want any part of these new models this year.

[busytimmy]

Originally Posted by McLovin

As long as Rolex makes good Subs -- and I like the SubC -- I really don't care what other goofy watches it makes.

I think I agree with you here

[rmurphy]

Originally Posted by LA_LEC

I rather doubt that a man like Steve McQueen would really be wearing any of these...



Yep, and the trend seems to be going in a very "tacky" direction totally into jewelry and appealing to a very different consumer demographic.

I agree totally, this man here wouldn't spend my money on any of them.

[KBM]

Well said, Archer!

[kilyung]

I'm pretty much done with most modern Rolex models at this time. I still think that no other company does precious metal bracelet watches (at a relatively good value) like Rolex. Sure other firms have similar models but at nearly double the cost. Henceforth, I'll likely focus more on vintage and precious metal Rolexes (with maybe an occasional exception).

[tom2517]

Originally Posted by kilyung

I'm pretty much done with most modern Rolex models at this time. I still think that no other company does precious metal bracelet watches (at a relatively good value) like Rolex. Sure other firms have similar models but at nearly double the cost. Henceforth, I'll likely focus more on vintage and precious metal Rolexes (with maybe an occasional exception).

I agree, I can understand PP charges higher price due to more intricate/complicated movement because a lot of time goes into the work and time is money, but 30k for a gold bracelet? Ouch.

[yessir69]

I agree, Larry. There seem to be two camps: modern Rolex - anything in the supercase, and everything else. With the larger sizes, PCLs, polished lugs, maxi dials, etc they are obviously going in a different direction.

When I saw the SkyDweller it was over for me. Now that I've seen the Platty-Doo-Doo-Daytona, it just confirms it. Four or five digit models for me please!

[jenniferjanef]

Originally Posted by tomchicago

i want to see MORE DIAMONDS and even more precious metals. Solid Rhodium completely encrusted with diamonds, rubies, etc. Solid Rhodium Daytona full serti on all facets (including inside the case) as well as serti hands (all hands).

Mate.. AP already answered your quest. Check out AP RO Tuxedo.

[xvfasttrip]

Yeah... I don't think Rolex consider you guys important anymore.

[DrLindaPhD]

Originally Posted by 77T

Target markets come and target markets go. The target market of 1990 and 2000 are aging out and eventually dying. Their collections will eventually enter the pre-owned stream.

The new targets may be younger, mobile, trendy, highly leveraged and I think the new colorful DD's could appeal.

Could you think of a different way of saying this.....
The target market of 1990 and 2000 are aging out and eventually dying.

.......kind of scares me ! ! ! !

[xvfasttrip]

You... old you...

[Bangel]

Originally Posted by Lew Archer

A few thoughts...

I agree with your thoughts and very well put.

My take is that while the new Basel releases don't particularly appeal to me, it's not like Rolex is replacing all their previous models with these.

It's not like if you want a GMT you can only have it in blue/black. If you want a Daytona, they are still available in a multitude of configurations. I see the new models as an expansion to their current range.

Also, just because I don't like a particular new model doesn't change my desire for ones that I do like.

[TauHway]

Interesting thread. I don't know what the big heads in Rolex are thinking nor do I have an inkling what their future direction is. What I see or think I see is Rolex trying to capture the younger and trendy crowd with their recent Tudor range of timepieces. We see them using bright colors, ceramic cases and the design, even if it harkens back to the vintages is a modern interpretation.

It seems to me the message they are trying to convey to the buyers is start off with the entry level Tudors which are young, snazzy, loud, attractive and are backed by the very same quality control that Rolexes are subjected to. Then when you have made it or the time is right, upgrade to a Rolex which is classic and timeless.

What they should do if they are not already doing so is to capture both the young crowd and the older market, and they are lucky in a sense they can utilize Tudor as an entity to go creative and do the things that may otherwise dilute Rolex as a classic and timeless brand.

Without going into any specific models, this is my take on their general corporate direction. Hopefully this makes sense. I really am typing this after a hard long day at work.

[capote]

After the 5 digit series Rolex went all in on bring and strange case shapes. Those 5 digit watches are among the best produced by any company, at any time.

[threemonkeys]

I suppose we aren't their target market. I wonder what type of feedback a non-wis-type would have.

[George Ab]

I do not quite understand all the angst over the new offerings. There were many years where there were no new offering from Rolex at Basel. I am excited when there is anything. The bright dials are likely to be appealing to the largest emerging market in the world... China.

[Puffy]

they've become like Richemont and LVMH

these new coloured watches are little more than new handbags that are churned out

[kmleffler]

The people on TRF, Timezone, and other watch forums are not the market that Rolex is aiming at. Most people who buy a Rolex could not care less about the movement inside the watch. All they want is the name Rolex on their wrist. As the chairman of Rolex once told an interviewer from a business magazine - "we don't sell watches, we sell status".

[Singslinger]

Originally Posted by Brandon(phila)

Seems like women is their new target audience.
Seems like what used to be a mans Day Date is all colorful now and full of diamonds.

Even the Daytona....it's nice looking watch, but probably better looking on a woman's wrist.

I am not knocking women's watches or women who wear watches, but they should have given more for a man to choose from.

I agree that recently it looks like Rolex has targeted women, though I think men already have plenty of choice - several 36mm/41mm Datejusts and Day-Dates, the 36/39mm Exps, two 42mm Exp IIs, different GMTs (black, TT, full gold and the new Day-Night), different Subs (black, green, TT and full gold) , the Deepsea, several YM versions, a few YM IIs, three Milgausses, the Sky-Dwellers and several Daytonas.

Also many Air Kings, though I've learned from another current thread that this has been reclassified by Rolex as a ladies' model. Still, I'm sure that won't stop men who find the AK appealing.

[JP Chestnut]

Originally Posted by wohlfecc

Good point. And IWC is no angel, either.

IWC has gone off the rails with some of their horrible designs - unfortunately, the ugly ones are amazingly successful...

[Tools]

Originally Posted by Singslinger

Also many Air Kings, though I've learned from another current thread that this has been reclassified by Rolex as a ladies' model. Still, I'm sure that won't stop men who find the AK appealing.

Rolex has not "re-classified" the Air-King as a Ladies model.. They simply now provide colored and jeweled dials that were designed with a Ladies tastes in mind.. They have done the same with the Day-Date and the Datejust and Daytona...

[codecow]

Originally Posted by Brandon(phila)

Even the Daytona....it's nice looking watch, but probably better looking on a woman's wrist.

My wife is probably getting a meteorite Daytona as her next watch.