Advice for a first timer - authenticating at local AD

[49erfaithful]

Hi all! Newbie looking to get my first Rolex. SS Daytona (White).

Here's the situation: I found a local guy (Craigslist) who just purchased a Daytona from a local AD (let's call it AD #1) back in May of this year. His asking price is $9500. I find this extremely reasonable and offered the logical plan - to meet at the store he bought from (AD #1) to have them check it out in front of me, validate purchase, etc. This was the plan until he tells me over the phone that the owner did him a favor and jumped him through the list to get him that Daytona and he wanted to keep in his good graces for upcoming purchases (not look like he was just flipping watches that were in high demand). He then offered to validate at any other local AD.

What should I be on the lookout for and what should I be asking AD #2 to validate? I'm sure they are pretty accustom to this. Is there a standard range in regards to a fee for this?

Thanks in advance!

[kilyung]

Call ahead to the AD and discuss your needs. If that doesn't work out, then find a Rolex experienced watchmaker that you trust. Note: Once he opens it up and finds it to be real, it's pretty much yours. No going back at that point... I'd be pissed as the owner if you had it opened, it was validated, and your changed your mind. The cost of the verification should be split IMO.

[pacific17]

Originally Posted by 49erfaithful

Hi all! Newbie looking to get my first Rolex. SS Daytona (White).

Here's the situation: I found a local guy (Craigslist) who just purchased a Daytona from a local AD (let's call it AD #1) back in May of this year. His asking price is $9500. I find this extremely reasonable and offered the logical plan - to meet at the store he bought from (AD #1) to have them check it out in front of me, validate purchase, etc. This was the plan until he tells me over the phone that the owner did him a favor and jumped him through the list to get him that Daytona and he wanted to keep in his good graces for upcoming purchases (not look like he was just flipping watches that were in high demand). He then offered to validate at any other local AD.

What should I be on the lookout for and what should I be asking AD #2 to validate? I'm sure they are pretty accustom to this. Is there a standard range in regards to a fee for this?

Thanks in advance!

I see that your username is 49erfaithful, I will assume you are from the bayarea, go to any Rolex Certified watchmaker, go to the RSC on post street. Also, what does he mean by "did him a favor and jumped him through the list?" It's not like the Pelagos which was hard to find, Shreve and Tourneau had a wait list when it first arrived here. Just sounds sketchy to me, but best of luck to you.

and Go 9ers!

[Lgear080]

I think you're going about this all wrong.
Do you regularly handle large sums of money? Do you know
Who you're purchasing from? Is the pricing and deal that much
Better than your next best from a known safe seller?

Stop trying to save a couple of hundred dollars. Buy from a seller
Who has a stellar reputation. Try to find the best watch, the best
Seller and lastly the best price. You'll be safer and happier if you
Do.

[Danny83]

I saw that rolex on craigslist sf sounds legit to me.

[pacific17]

Originally Posted by Lgear080

I think you're going about this all wrong.
Do you regularly handle large sums of money? Do you know
Who you're purchasing from? Is the pricing and deal that much
Better than your next best from a known safe seller?

Stop trying to save a couple of hundred dollars. Buy from a seller
Who has a stellar reputation. Try to find the best watch, the best
Seller and lastly the best price. You'll be safer and happier if you
Do.

[49erfaithful]

Thanks all for the sound advice!

@pacific17: none of the ADs here in the Bay Area have the SS Daytona in stock. There is a wait list at all the ones I've called.

@Lgear080: thanks for the advice, I do not know this seller. Seems to be a local business owner (per name and phone number). My 2nd choice would be to just buy brand new from a trusted seller here on TRF but it's a $2500 delta.

@danny83: thanks man, just keeping my guard up as I've been burned in the past with Craigslist deals


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[49erfaithful]

Thanks for all the helpful advice!

@Danny83: sounds like you are local, mind sending me a PM? Thanks!

Has anyone dealt with Jackson Square Fine Jewelers in Redwood City recently?

[Roger1079]

The Daytona suffers from artificially created limited availability. Being how I got mine, I understand where the seller is coming from and he likely has a valid concern. I did not have to wait for longer than it took to receive it from my AD's headquarters, but had I not had good history with my AD I would have been turned away being put on a "list".

It seems as if the seller did not meet the AD's requirements to get a SS Daytona right away and was given it anyway based on his relationship with the AD's owner. His reason seems plausible, and him agreeing to have it authenticated at any other AD or place of your choice makes me believe this watch is definitely genuine. The price also seems really good compared to other sources for the 116520 Daytona. The only issue is that him not wanting to go back to the AD of purchase removes the ability for you to know the watch was purchased legitimately.

This is where the saying rings true that you buy the seller before the watch. If you have any doubt as to the legitimacy of the transaction or the history of the watch, walk away now as these doubts will always remain even years after the sale. Also, I say this because, from a sellers perspective, if I went through the cost and process of authentication and had the back case removed from my watch for the buyer to get cold feet afterwards, I would be upset. Regardless of whether the gaskets can survive this, I would never want to break the seals on my watch without good reason since odds are I will have to do this for the next prospective buyer as well.

There is only one way to guarantee a Rolex is genuine and know it's history and that is to buy it new from an AD. Unfortunately, that certainty comes at a hefty premium. To save a bunch of cash, you can always guarantee authenticity, but usually you will not have the privilege of knowing where that watch originally came from. The best way to mitigate this risk is to spend a bit more and buy the watch from a known and trusted seller here. This is about the best balance of cost and peace of mind you can get. Good luck with the purchase.

[joli160]

I don't buy from just anybody to save a couple of buck's.
For me only trusted sellers or forum members, no need for authenticating, no money issues, no headaches.

[Lgear080]

I've seen multiple sub $10k deals on solid 116520s
... Where are you comping?

[azguy]

RSC
210 Post St, San Francisco, CA 94108
(415) 982-9830

[jhcam8]

I'll just join the choir and caution against cash deals with unknown sellers. There's a few threads here that detail some of the things that can go wrong.
good luck

[49erfaithful]

Originally Posted by Roger1079

The Daytona suffers from artificially created limited availability. Being how I got mine, I understand where the seller is coming from and he likely has a valid concern. I did not have to wait for longer than it took to receive it from my AD's headquarters, but had I not had good history with my AD I would have been turned away being put on a "list".

It seems as if the seller did not meet the AD's requirements to get a SS Daytona right away and was given it anyway based on his relationship with the AD's owner. His reason seems plausible, and him agreeing to have it authenticated at any other AD or place of your choice makes me believe this watch is definitely genuine. The price also seems really good compared to other sources for the 116520 Daytona. The only issue is that him not wanting to go back to the AD of purchase removes the ability for you to know the watch was purchased legitimately.

This is where the saying rings true that you buy the seller before the watch. If you have any doubt as to the legitimacy of the transaction or the history of the watch, walk away now as these doubts will always remain even years after the sale. Also, I say this because, from a sellers perspective, if I went through the cost and process of authentication and had the back case removed from my watch for the buyer to get cold feet afterwards, I would be upset. Regardless of whether the gaskets can survive this, I would never want to break the seals on my watch without good reason since odds are I will have to do this for the next prospective buyer as well.

There is only one way to guarantee a Rolex is genuine and know it's history and that is to buy it new from an AD. Unfortunately, that certainty comes at a hefty premium. To save a bunch of cash, you can always guarantee authenticity, but usually you will not have the privilege of knowing where that watch originally came from. The best way to mitigate this risk is to spend a bit more and buy the watch from a known and trusted seller here. This is about the best balance of cost and peace of mind you can get. Good luck with the purchase.

Thanks again everyone so much for all the insight!

Roger1079: I think you are right in walking away if there is any doubt. While most signs point to it being 100% legitimate, there's always that slim chance the watch may have been altered, etc. I've been burned with a few Craigslist transactions in the past. However, is there a price point that would make it a no brainer and worth the trip to the RSC for validation? $9k maybe?

Forgot to mention, I've seen all the paperwork and actual receipt from the AD with the $12k + tax sale price back in May.

[Time Exposure]

From your description, it sounds legit if only due to all the details that would be hard to falsify and orchestrate. I would have the cash in pocket and be certain you will hand it over for the watch if it checks out.
Be certain you find an AD who is qualified to offer the service, and for what price. Also be certain it can be done while you wait (make an appointment). Don't ask me how I know that (and don't look to Davidson & Licht for help). Mike says you should split the cost of verification, but I think the burden is on you.
Good luck with the transaction if it materializes, and keep us posted!

[pacific17]

Originally Posted by 49erfaithful

Thanks again everyone so much for all the insight!

Roger1079: I think you are right in walking away if there is any doubt. While most signs point to it being 100% legitimate, there's always that slim chance the watch may have been altered, etc. I've been burned with a few Craigslist transactions in the past. However, is there a price point that would make it a no brainer and worth the trip to the RSC for validation? $9k maybe?

Forgot to mention, I've seen all the paperwork and actual receipt from the AD with the $12k + tax sale price back in May.

Anything you have doubts on, get it validated. For me, since I like peace of mind, I get anything over $1000 authenticated. Thats just me. Im sure the RSC will gladly do it.

[sigguy]

Sounds to me like you're being appropriately cautious.

$9500 is a very good price for the latest daytona; assuming it's
a random serial number (8-digit) or V###### or G######
with the latest clasp; you won't find that for sub-10k.

Not much modification that happens to a daytona; unlike the datejust
or day-date, where there are lots of aftermarket dials and bezels out
there.

Main thing the AD will do is open it up and look at movement; make sure
it's a real rolex movement and that the caseback numbers are correct.
Other numbers should be correct (bracelet, end links, clasp, case).

My local guy charges $50; I would think somewhere from $50-100 is
reasonable for a verification under these circumstances. I would make
sure to contact the AD in advance and tell him exactly what you're
planning; I can see how a retail jeweler could be uncomfortable with
you actually handling the cash transaction in the store (liability and all).

You need an AD with a watchmaker on staff; some don't have one. If
there is a local Rolex Service Center and that's an option for you to
use I'd definitely go there. RSC may be able to do additional validation
of the serial number that an AD can't (eg. stolen check).

[Tools]

Originally Posted by 49erfaithful

. . . What should I be on the lookout for and what should I be asking AD #2 to validate? I'm sure they are pretty accustom to this. Is there a standard range in regards to a fee for this?

Thanks in advance!

No, they are not accustomed to this. It is a very rare AD that offers this and it must be from the staff watchmaker not the guy behind the counter. You are not asking for the Dealers time, you are asking for the watchmakers time and most work there on contract or fee-for-service.

Call ahead and make an appointment for what you want.

[Time Exposure]

The more I think about it, the more I think you should contact Rolex at 210 Post St. in San Francisco. See if they provide the service, how much it would cost, and if you need to make an appointment for it to happen while you wait.

[pacific17]

Originally Posted by Time Exposure

The more I think about it, the more I think you should contact Rolex at 210 Post St. in San Francisco. See if they provide the service, how much it would cost, and if you need to make an appointment for it to happen while you wait.

or the one next to it, Setraks Watch Repair, he is a certified rolex tech.

[Lgear080]

What serial is it? I still think you're paying retail, in cash, to someone whom you don't know. This is not a "deal" and opens you to far too much risk. Everything you've said sofar
Can be copied or falsified... Why would anyone sell a Daytona on cl? You're being far too
Naive.

[locutus49]

My experience is, when a ebay or craigslist seller changes his story (and they all have stories), beware. He may be honest, but why take the risk for a couple hundred bucks. Buy from a seller on this site.

[azguy]

Just imagine the headache if its stolen......

[pacific17]

Originally Posted by locutus49

My experience is, when a ebay or craigslist seller changes his story (and they all have stories), beware. He may be honest, but why take the risk for a couple hundred bucks. Buy from a seller on this site.

[49erfaithful]

Thank you all so much!

Quick update: the guy canceled on me today (something came up, too busy).

Looks like I'm going to continue my search per all the advice given on the thread and purchase through one of the forum members here. Have a couple I already have my eye on. Now the only decision is lightly used (~1yr) vs brand new!

[Time Exposure]

[QUOTE=49erfaithful;5214816Now the only decision is lightly used (~1yr) vs brand new![/QUOTE]


Both under warranty (2yrs). Go used, presuming its cheaper.