Some things I have learned...

[Beaumont Miller II]

Many times you see watches posted where someone is asking others more knowledgable what there thoughts are on a particular watch. I have been on both sides of this and am always appreciative for the help I get and also happy to help others. Recently I was looking for a very nice condition 1675 GMT and was seeking advice from the 1675 guru, Orchi. For some, this information may be a bit pedestrian, but for others it can save them from buying the wrong watch or paying too much for the watch they buy. For purposes of this discussion I will be using my 1655 Exp II because, of the Rolex watches in my collection, it is probably in as original condition (meaning worn but possibly not polished). The incredible pictures were taken by Andrew Shear. This is what I learned:

It was the evaluation of the case that Orchi was kind enough to educate me on. I would see a watch that looked reasonable, and he kept finding fault with the lugs, calling them redone or overhauled.



From this picture I try to focus on the dial and not make a lot of judgements on the case. Many times the picture is taken at a slight angle to avoid having the camera reflection in the lens. What you can tell about the case is the crown guard size, length, and whether they are even. You can also tell whether the top of the lugs have the satin or brushed finish on them. Sometimes this is not the best view to see whether the factory bevel or chamfer on the lugs is present. If it is there, but hard to see it will make one of the lugs look smaller than the others. Don't see much bevel here do you?



From this view you obviously get to see the 9 o'clock side of the case to look for dings, dents, and scuffs. This is the thing that Orchi was focusing on. Pay particular attention to how close the lug hole is to the end of the lug and to the top. When people talk about lug thickness they need to be talking about lug thickness from top to bottom as well as from side to side. I have heard some describe this as lug height. As the lug height diminishes from polishing on the top of the lug and on the end, the lug hole gets closer to the top and end. Recently I saw a picture of a watch that had the lug ends filed off to make them look fatter. In addition pay particular attention to scooping out of the lug hole which occurs with excessive polishing.



This view is nice for the same as above but also because you can judge whether the crown guards are the same thickness. This view is usually taken straight on and there is no distortion from it being taken from an angle.





IMHO, views at an angle are the best for showing the side of the case with mirror polish, the bevel or chamfer on the lugs as well as the satin or brushed finish on the top of the lugs.



This is the view that I used to focus on when evaluating the lug width or thickness, while neglecting the others. I think it is important to have all 4 lugs in the picture so you can see each lug width side to side at the tip. Yes I do use calipers to check for evenness. Remember the watch that was being sold where the ends were filed down to make them look fat. If all you had was this view, you might only appreciate the end of the lugs being fat at the end but not being a little short.



Finally, it is nice to have a view from between to the lugs to check for side to side thickness as well as to check for pitting between the lugs and a legible serial and reference level.

All of these views are important when evaluating a case, and that is why valued sellers show you all of them. It is for this reason that I try not to comment on the watch case from the pic that best shows the dial. I hope this helps some of the new members who venture into the excitement of collecting vintage Rolex watches. Try not to be fooled with shiny overpolished watches when the trend is for watches to be as original as possible. Scuffs on a vintage watch are acceptable and sometimes help tell the story, and a watch can only be unpolished once. I'm not sure I said that correctly, but I hope you get my meaning. Others more knowledgeable please add to this if there is anything I left out. HAGWE.