IWC Aquatimer 3536-01 Ti Review

[mks4]

Hello there,

I recently picked up a near NOS IWC 3536-01 Aquatimer and thought I'd give a review. I tend to write lengthy ones, so bear with me...or don't!

About a month ago, I had the chance to head into Munich with some family and decided to visit Meertz after periodically checking their website. I was with my father, who also loves watches, and we unknowingly both had an interest in the 3536 that the shop had for sale. A wild coincidence as this shop had/has so many interesting and desirable pieces for sale. In the end, though, after visiting the shop 3 times over 2 days, it was me who decided to pull the trigger. I had told myself in the months before that I would only focus on Rolex, but the chance to buy something this iconic, IMO, at a price more reasonable than almost any Sub led me to crack open the wallet.

So what is this thing?

Well, the 3536-01 is an Aquatimer from IWC, part of the GST line, and is notable because of its titanium (Ti) construction, 2000m depth rating sans helium valve and the fact that it's one of the last pre-Richemont designs from the IWC. It was available from around 1998 to around 2004. Personally, I had loved this design from day 1 when I saw it in the case more than 10 years ago and when flipping through the wonderful hardback catalogs from IWC (I stupidly sold my old IWC and IWC-Porsche catalogs on eBay but that's another story). It's clean, has an almost-military look and exudes the same 90's Teutonic style that makes most of the old IWC-Porsche watches so collectible. In fact, this thing looks as if "Porsche Design" would not be out of place on the dial. It was also available in steel with black dial and polished center links and in a very rare steel with white face.

The watch I bought was originally sold in 2001 in Germany and was later sold to Meertz as part of a 48(!!!) watch private collection. The condition on this baby is almost NOS with a couple light scratches to the bracelet and a little nick in the top of the bezel.

The review:

The dial:

The dial on the Aquatimer is a very basic black and white design with great legibility. Everything other than the chevron-style 12:00 and the pointed ends of the hour and minute hands is rectangular or linear. The dial finish is matte and the writing is simple in caps and not overwrought in the least. Date window blends with the dial and is without surrounding. The date disc itself is a dial-matching black with white writing. The only negatives I see are the fact that the date can be a bit tough to read due to its smaller size and the gorgeous, needle-like sweep seconds hand can almost "disappear" against the minutes hand or against the hour markers. Also, there is no AR and glare can crop up...not a deal-breaker to me.

As some may notice in my picture, the lume looks funky on the dial because the 12:00 (and the bezel pip, but more on that later) looks different than the rest of the dial. Well, as noted on the dial, this is a T Swiss T version and IWC decided to use Tritium for the 12:00 and pip while using luminova for the other areas. So, we have aging at different rates. It should be noted that if the watch were sent to IWC and the dial were changed, an all luminova, or possibly Superluminova, dial would be used. I don't see quite the comments on value related to dials on IWC's, but I have to believe that like on a Rolex, originality is key. It should also be noted that the T Swiss T dials were only used for the earlier part of the production run so there is variation within the OEM run. Lastly, lumination on this piece has largely gone, but reports seem to state that it was never a world-class shiner versus such stalwarts as the Seiko Monster or the Omegas.

The Bezel:

Here's an interesting, and judging by reviews on other sites, a controversial piece of this watch. The bezel on the 3536 must be pushed in towards the wrist in order to turn. It's unidirectional with 60 clicks per rotation. Also, unlike the rest of the watch, it's made of stainless. The bezel is knurled all the way around except for an area that juts out around the 12:00 bezel pip. The area that just is a ding collector but adds a little character to the otherwise stark appearance. The double row knurling around the rest of the bezel looks fantastic and solid. Numbers on the bezel are raised and surrounded by a sunken black-colored area. It's a serious look with nice readability. Here again, the pip on this version is tritium and has aged nicely. Replacement bezels use luminova. The controversial part of this bezel relates to the fact that it must be pushed in to use. This spring-loaded design (picture below showing it depressed) inherently creates a gap between the bezel and the case where dirt and debris may become lodged. Fear not as the bezel is supposedly easily removed with a tiny screwdriver and screws seen just below the bezel. Sadly, mine is missing the toolkit, but it's only a screwdriver. Also, I don't see myself wearing this every day as there are too many other pieces that need wrist time! One concern is that if the watch is worn daily and becomes dirty underneath the bezel, it needs to be cleaned or the dirt can create wear and, later, slop in the ratcheting system. Frankly, I love this bezel and it feels so tight and precise in its movements...very deliberate one might say which is a good thing for safety.

The case:

The case, and the rest of the watch not already described, is comprised of Ti. IWC really pioneered the use of Ti (yes, I know there were others before...Seiko, etc) in its Porsche Design watches. On the 3536, there was apparently a lot of work/research done that concentrated on the matte finish of the Ti, the hardness and overall quality of the construction. I have read rumors that, in the end, this watch was a money loser for Ti due to the money spent and the high rejection rate. Not sure on this but the result is fantastic. The case is a very simple design with nice lugs that show a little character on the sides with indentations. Lugs are also thru-hole but not in the way one would think...more on that later. Case back has a great submarine motif and is finished flawlessly. Crown is unguarded, screw-down type and comes with the old-school fish symbol. Beware as IWC replaces these with the newer style insignia crowns if serviced.

The bracelet and clasp:

Now we get to something is an overall marvel and triumph but does have a few flaws. First, the entire bracelet has the matte finish, unlike its SS brother with polished links. This look is great and screams "tool watch"!! When looking on the side of the watch, every link has thru-holes. Odd, right? Well, flip the bracelet over and the underside is where the watch becomes an engineer's dream. Each center link has a small circle inside. This circle is basically a button, that can be pushed with the provided metal pointer or even a small wooden skewer, and it pushes out the link pins for simple removal. It's amazing, one might say ingenious, and works very quickly. The negative is that if the watch is worn often, funk can get into the spring mechanism of the buttons and can make life difficult. Regarding adjustability, it is nice that every link can be removed independently, but there is no microadjustability on the bracelet or clasp. When talking about the clasp, it is a simple folding clasp with button-actuated opening. It's slim, unobtrusive and very well-made (all in Ti) but there is no wetsuit extension. I question the durability of the button actuator and the rivet that the closure clicks onto, but have not read of too many complaints. It's an elegant solution, but seems a bit weak versus, say, a fliplock that gives you more peace of mind. I've not inadvertently popped the clasp open but it is a concern. Potential buyers should note that either a velcro or rubber strap may be ordered (not cheaply) from IWC that provide quicker adjustment for dives, etc. These come with end links that click into the lugs. Strap nuts would likely be disappointed in this watch as fitting straps like NATO's or Zulus would be tough or odd due to the the use of non normal link pins.

As far as comfort, this watch and its bracelet are ridiculous. It is so light and so unobtrusive that I fell asleep with it on the other night; that would never happen with my Sub. I'd easily say that, other than something like a G-shock, it's the most comfortable watch I've tried.

Movement:

This is the IWC 37524 which is based on the ETA 2892. So, while it's not an in-house piece, it has been highly, highly modified. In fact, most critical components have been replaced by IWC. Also, it hacks. I don't time test my watches but haven't seen issues thus far.

Wrap-up:

I like to buy what I feel are iconic watches. To me the 3536 falls on that list. It stems from a time when watchmakers were experimenting with "space age" materials and really made some crafty things. From an IWC perspective, it represents a piece from their halcyon days before things become a whole lot flashier...not that I don't like some things that they do now, but they were very under-the-radar a short 10-15 years ago. In reading about these watches online, they garner a lot of respect and WIS almost universally adore them. It stands on its own as a serious watch that deserves consideration. Alternatively, if you're hellbent on another dive watch, but have too many Subs or SD's, or don't want to fork out the money for a Rolex, look this way as well. The 3536 is unique, low-key, extremely capable and is seemingly holding or slowly growing its market value. I'm always blown away that something so simple, elegant, and light is rated to 2000m; it's a true engineering solution which should appeal to watch nerds all around. I'd also never owned a Ti watch but this one is giving me a very positive impression. I wore it for 3 weeks straight and traveled overseas the whole time and could find nary a new scratch...even on the underside of the bracelet. That bodes well...Pelagos in my future?

Thanks for reading and forgive the amateur pics!

Mike

P.S. One comment on Meertz as the opinion seems widely divided here on the forum. I had a good, efficient experience. Not a whole lot of sense of humor in there, but they knew their stuff pretty well. Of course, I depend on myself to know the market first and foremost. I did note that over my 3 visits, the place was ALWAYS busy which was interesting and nice to see such interest in vintage.