Breitling Chronomat Evolution Review

[BreitSheik]

I was awestrucked when I saw this watch in person at my AD! There was no turning back for me, I knew I had to get it! I had a Rolex Sub 16613 before which I honestly had to part with so I could get this new beauty. Believe me, I really struggled hard before making the final decision. But it is what makes you happy, right?

The case has now the enormous 43.7 mm diameter! A far cry from the old 40 mm with the previous Chronomat models. I was wearing my older Chronomat Vitesse in the AD when I compared it in person to the Evolution, I felt like I was wearing a ladies' watch!






For the movement, it has the famous Valjoux 7750 at 28,800 b.p.h. which Breitling mainly calls their Caliber 13. The same Caliber 13 used on previous smaller scale Chronomat models. (I wonder if they had to use spacers to accomodate the larger case diameter.) It keeps excellent time which is on the positive side of +1 to +2 sec/ 24 hrs. The power reserve is 42 hrs.

As far as chronograph function is concerned, it is quite accurate and resets back right on the dot. You have to loosen (unscrew) the push button collar lock in order to operate the chrono (just like the Daytonas). However I am surprised to notice that the long chrono second hand isn't as smooth sweeping compared to the regular sized Chronomats. It's kinda "jerky" although uniformly sweeps the entire cycle. I don't know if it's just me, or the sweep of it being emphasized on a larger scale diameter. Anyway, it's no big deal.

The subdial unit scale are much more pronounced and legibly clear on this model (with the subsidiary seconds hands shaped like a delta wing ). The crown has a beautifully revised larger dome which is a little improvement for grasping compared to previous models (although still not as easy as Rolex). You still have to put the grip effort in unscrewing and screwing the crown due to its dome shape.

The unidirectional bezel has a revolution of 120 hard "clicks" aligning exactly on the dot of the minute scale. Again not as smooth turning compared to Rolex which is subtle and softer without the hard "clicks". The rider tabs are aesthetically appealing to me though since it makes it easier for me to spot them when for example using it as a timer.

The dial is a beautiful rich dark blue with contrasted gold subdials that even makes this watch more on the blingy side. However the Tach scale as well as the 100th units scale are printed much smaller compared to the previous versions. You would think that since it has a larger diameter, they would enlarge the font size too. The hour markers have much more improved though looking at it with the lume at both sides of each one gives it a more distinctive look that goes well with the larger scale theme.



Also the concentric fine set of grooves along the blue dial you see running through those markers and another group running through those subdials makes the statement of being a mammoth of a watch. The Breitling logo improved as well with the "1884" below it, followed by "Chronographe Certifie Chronometre Automatic". It sounds like a real competition now to "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified".

As for comfort, it is not as confortable as the regular sized Chronomat since it's more bulky and heavier. Although, it still has the same suppleness of texture throughout when worn. The clasp although bigger doesn't snap as hard compared to the previous versions, although the fliplock clasp does.

Overall, a very nice watch indeed (an understatement!) to which I have gotten a lot of compliments due to its wrist "presence". A real blinger though for a two tone model. I could have chosen the SS with the Slate and Black subdials as my second choice. I went with the blinger instead. Sometimes I find myself just staring at it for hours.