If I was looking........

[esm]

Originally Posted by Psmith

I don't think anyone buys a historic Base or Marina model and worries too much about highly accurate time-keeping, although the movements are certainly capable of it.

what?

Clive, are you telling me that my 000 is 3.5 seconds slower against the Big Ben Clock is actually not true?!?

[Psmith]

Originally Posted by esm

what?

Clyde, are you telling me that my 000 is 3.5 seconds slower against the Big Ben Clock is actually not true?!?

Well Eric, you could always try to improve the Zero's accuracy with a few old pennies...

The clock's movement is famous for its reliability. The designers were the lawyer and amateur horologist Edmund Beckett Denison, and George Airy, the Astronomer Royal. Construction was entrusted to clockmaker Edward John Dent; after his death in 1853 his stepson Frederick Dent completed the work, in 1854. As the Tower was not complete until 1859, Denison had time to experiment: Instead of using the deadbeat escapement and remontoire as originally designed, Denison invented the double three-legged gravity escapement. This escapement provides the best separation between pendulum and clock mechanism. The pendulum is installed within an enclosed windproof box sunk beneath the clockroom. It is 3.9m long, weighs 300 kg and beats every 2 seconds. The clockwork mechanism in a room below weighs 5 tons. On top of the pendulum is a small stack of old penny coins; these are to adjust the time of the clock. Adding a coin has the effect of minutely lifting the position of the pendulum's centre of mass, reducing the effective length of the pendulum rod and hence increasing the rate at which the pendulum swings. Adding or removing a penny will change the clock's speed by 0.4 seconds per day.
[Wikipedia]

[stockae92]

my only suggest: go with manual wind :)

[TopNotchChach]

112

[snog]

Originally Posted by Jonathan007

How come a 111 comes with a COSC cert and the 000 doesn't??

to get a cosc the watch has to have a second hand.

[snog]

Originally Posted by Jonathan007

How come a 111 comes with a COSC cert and the 000 doesn't??

to get a cosc the watch has to have a second hand.it would be near impossible to judge if the watch was within the standard without the seconds.

[topcat30093]

Who is considering selling his 111 & everything that should come with it.

I can also vouch personally for the AD where he made his purchase.

If you are interested please pm me for further details.
Regards
Tony

[Cru Jones]

i'm in the same boat and thought i was sure i'd go 111....but, the 164 is calling me now (auto, date, better balanced dial than 111 (imho), quick change, brushed case). my rush to buy one is over, though, and i'm enjoying the hunt now, taking my time.

[marcinthemiddle]

Originally Posted by Jonathan007

If I was looking for a first Pam what Pam would you Pam people suggest?

Thank you

Jon

I'd go with a 312- it's got it all...without being too spendy: a 1950's case, in-house movement, date, exhibition caseback and a sandwich dial!
Like mine!


Good luck in your search...

[tuisquash]

112, basic, sandwich, cheaper, clean dial, luminor, exhibition case back.

[marcinthemiddle]

Originally Posted by tuisquash

112, basic, sandwich, cheaper, clean dial, luminor, exhibition case back.

Not really a plus factor...

[Kapture1]

What would be 42-44 mm in size, manual wind, clear caseback and a seconds subdial?

what model is that? I really like the 312, between date and no date...

[marcinthemiddle]

If you want something "basic", you could go for the PAM 372- 1950, 47mm, in-house hand-wound movement, exhibition caseback. There's a nice "basic" option for you.

[Kapture1]

give me a model of the PAM 372 with the seconds subdial.

I like the look, has all the other features I am looking for, is there a PAM like the 372 that also shows seconds?

[Jonathan007]

I only gone an done it!!

PAM00111 love it!

Pics soon

[marcinthemiddle]

Originally Posted by Jonathan007

I only gone an done it!!

PAM00111 love it!

Pics soon

Congrats!

[Jonathan007]

Originally Posted by marcinthemiddle

Congrats!

Cheers Marc I took your advice and went with the second hand.

I'm a bit stuck with the leather and rubber straps though as when I have the watch on and fastned there isnt much strap left sticking through the second loop.

Could really do with a bit more? OOOOO ERRRRRR!

Lug width is 24mm right? what would the strap length be and how is it measured?

Loving the watch though!

Jon

[mfer]

Originally Posted by Jonathan007

Cheers Marc I took your advice and went with the second hand.

I'm a bit stuck with the leather and rubber straps though as when I have the watch on and fastned there isnt much strap left sticking through the second loop.

Could really do with a bit more? OOOOO ERRRRRR!

Lug width is 24mm right? what would the strap length be and how is it measured?

Loving the watch though!

Jon

Depends on how much tail you want and what your wrist size is.

Here are sample strap measurements.
135/82 - This means the tail side is 135mm long and the buckle side (not including buckle) is 82mm long.
You'd also see measurements like 24/22. This means it is 24mm at the lugs and tapers down to 22mm. I did mine customer and it is 25/26. Weird right? Mine is 25mm at the lug (tight squeeze) and opens up to 26mm. I'm going for the big look.

Here is what that exact strap (25/26 135/82) looks like on a 6.5" wrist.







It takes some time to figure out what you want. It is really trial and error. You WON'T get the perfect strap the first time.

[Jonathan007]

Originally Posted by mfer

Depends on how much tail you want and what your wrist size is.

Here are sample strap measurements.
135/82 - This means the tail side is 135mm long and the buckle side (not including buckle) is 82mm long.
You'd also see measurements like 24/22. This means it is 24mm at the lugs and tapers down to 22mm. I did mine customer and it is 25/26. Weird right? Mine is 25mm at the lug (tight squeeze) and opens up to 26mm. I'm going for the big look.

Here is what that exact strap (25/26 135/82) looks like on a 6.5" wrist.







It takes some time to figure out what you want. It is really trial and error. You WON'T get the perfect strap the first time.

Mik

thats really interesting.

I had seen those numbers and realsied the 24mm was probably the lug width but the tail and buckle lengths I didnt understand.

So thank you very much I will go and measure my strap. T/B.

Jon

[mfer]

No prob. Take your time and "guess" at what you want for the first one. Trust me, you won't get it perfect. Each wrist is different and different skins wear differently too. I like my gators more near the OEM specs. Here is a 26/24 120/75 from ABP. Much less tail, but that is what I wanted from this strap.







BTW, I have a 150/90 27/27 on order for something different! For a 6.5" wrist, that is as big as you can get!

[topcat30093]

Jon
Congratulation on your new Pam 111.
I have sent you a pm regarding straps.
Regards
Tony

[Jonathan007]

Originally Posted by topcat30093

Jon
Congratulation on your new Pam 111.
I have sent you a pm regarding straps.
Regards
Tony

Hi Tony

Thank you!

Jon

[Cru Jones]

Originally Posted by Jonathan007

I only gone an done it!!

PAM00111 love it!

Pics soon

Congrats!!

[stevenrobinson]

Cant go wrong with the 90. But watches are like women if you know what I mean.

But buy what you like.

[TheDude]

My first was the 359. I prefer getting an in-house movement for the prices these watches sell for.



The P.3000 movement is the new hand-would in-house. It will likely be in watches selling for $9,000+ for at least a year or so.