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lightingball2 · 22 December 2014, 07:38 AM

Hey gang,

I have a friend who wants to purchase a Coke GMT. I believe they are out of production now. I dont quite understand how the model numbers work. If you were to buy one, what model/year would you purchase and why? what is a fair price for one?

thanks for your help

Jeff

Kyu · 22 December 2014, 07:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lightingball2

Hey gang,

I have a friend who wants to purchase a Coke GMT. I believe they are out of production now. I dont quite understand how the model numbers work. If you were to buy one, what model/year would you purchase and why? what is a fair price for one?

thanks for your help

Jeff

This was offered to me for 6k
It's a GMT coke on jubilee bracelet

I think it was a 1999

rolex_DateJust · 22 December 2014, 07:49 AM

I would get a K serial. I had a k serial gmt and I had the best of both worlds ( SEL and lug holes )

lightingball2 · 22 December 2014, 07:51 AM

ok im not very good with this....can you guys explain the serial numbers to me? what is the difference? what year was the last year they were produced......see, told ya im knew at this :)

Kyu · 22 December 2014, 07:51 AM

Only thing that threw me off was how small it "felt" for me
Other wise I would've bit it lol

blue lion · 22 December 2014, 08:14 AM

Search here and the internet for model #s, serial #s, etc.
A 16710 model can have the bezel switched out from Coke to Pepsi to black, something to keep in mind.
Way too many variables to talk price. Condition, age, etc factor in.

Slowtoes · 22 December 2014, 08:29 AM

Here's a decent reference on changes...

http://www.gmtmasterhistory.com/gmt-...ref_16710.html

bp1000 · 22 December 2014, 09:49 AM

K, z or m serial

Buy the seller and £4k ($6,2k) is good going for a watch in good to excellent condition with minimal bracelet stretch. Look for polishing flares and rounded case edges too and I usually avoid the battered and poorly refurbed jobs

22 December 2014, 07:38 AM	#1
lightingball2 "TRF" Member Join Date: Feb 2014 Real Name: Jeff K. Location: Sacramento, Calif Watch: Rolex Daytona Posts: 326	Coke GMT Hey gang, I have a friend who wants to purchase a Coke GMT. I believe they are out of production now. I dont quite understand how the model numbers work. If you were to buy one, what model/year would you purchase and why? what is a fair price for one? thanks for your help Jeff

22 December 2014, 07:49 AM	#3
rolex_DateJust 2024 Pledge Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Real Name: Sergio Location: Miami, FL Watch: Yes please! Posts: 1,781	I would get a K serial. I had a k serial gmt and I had the best of both worlds ( SEL and lug holes ) __________________ ♛ 126610LV ♛ 16220 Salmon ♛ 126713GRNR ♛ 18238 Ω Speedmaster Moonwatch

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22 December 2014, 07:51 AM	#4
lightingball2 "TRF" Member Join Date: Feb 2014 Real Name: Jeff K. Location: Sacramento, Calif Watch: Rolex Daytona Posts: 326	ok im not very good with this....can you guys explain the serial numbers to me? what is the difference? what year was the last year they were produced......see, told ya im knew at this :)

22 December 2014, 07:51 AM	#5
Kyu "TRF" Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Real Name: yes.. it's Kyu Location: Los Angeles Watch: Rolex 116759SANR Posts: 1,499	Only thing that threw me off was how small it "felt" for me Other wise I would've bit it lol

22 December 2014, 08:14 AM	#6
blue lion "TRF" Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Florida State! Watch: It's just a watch. Posts: 1,463	Search here and the internet for model #s, serial #s, etc. A 16710 model can have the bezel switched out from Coke to Pepsi to black, something to keep in mind. Way too many variables to talk price. Condition, age, etc factor in.

22 December 2014, 08:29 AM	#7
Slowtoes "TRF" Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: NY Posts: 124	Here's a decent reference on changes... http://www.gmtmasterhistory.com/gmt-...ref_16710.html

22 December 2014, 09:49 AM	#8
bp1000 "TRF" Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Midlands, UK Posts: 4,975	K, z or m serial Buy the seller and £4k ($6,2k) is good going for a watch in good to excellent condition with minimal bracelet stretch. Look for polishing flares and rounded case edges too and I usually avoid the battered and poorly refurbed jobs

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