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Old 23 June 2015, 09:20 AM   #1
ArcticMoose
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Icon14 The perfect trio, and a KEEPER. That's it. I'm done. Absolutely nailed it!

I haven't been around TRF much lately, mostly due to the fact that I have been spending less and less time in English-speaking parts of the world. Still, I thought I'd drop by and share a few recent developments.


This is going to be a bit of a long one, so now is a good time to fill up that coffee mug!

So, I've never been much of a flipper, probably because I put quite a bit of research into every purchase. This means that most watches are mentally flipped way before I actually purchase one. The Yacht-Master with the blue dial, Black Bay, Daytona with the meteorite dial and Sinn 656L are all good examples of watches that never made it onto my wrist. The ones that do usually get to stay, I hardly ever feel the need to sell a watch that I am content with just to scratch an itch for something else.

I have never considered myself a collector, since watches in a collection need to have something in common, a leitmotif. I simply buy watches that I would like to wear, and I would never buy a watch I couldn't wear due to it being too valuable or too fragile.

Recently I decided to flip a few watches that do not get enough use, archive the rest in long-term storage and start over. This time I aimed for a collection of sorts, i.e. a number of watches with a theme.

It took a while to decide which three would make the cut. I wanted to have the following covered:
  • Diver
  • Beater
  • Vintage
  • Birth Year
  • 24h
  • Dress Watch
  • Complication which is not second, date, rotatable bezel or 24h

I made a bit of a guessing competition out of it on the Swedish watch forum klocksnack, but since the trio has already been made public there I don't see much point of doing it again.

Before I get to the trio I would like to take a step back and recount a bit of my watch history, as it is in retrospect quite clear what my theme always was, and of course still is.

After my early preschool and school years, during which I wore a number of ever more complex plastic Casio watches, I simply did not wear a wristwatch at all. After highschool I decided to buy a watch, but I hadn't visualized any watch in particular. I didn't really have an interest in wristwatches, I just wanted a watch, and assumed I'd recognize the right one when I saw it.

I hit the shops armed with a budget of about $100, but the results were quite depressing. Every watch I could afford (and most of the ones I couldn't) looked tacky, cheap or just plain ugly. I decided I didn't need a watch and left it at that until I walked past a shop window in a another city a few days later.

There it was, with a perfectly simple dial, a masterfully crafted titanium case and an interesting bracelet, not excessively flashy, but definitely not dull. On top of all this, it didn't require battery replacements, it would run forever.

The watch was a sun-powered Citizen Eco-Drive, and it was painfully expensive. However, after a sleepless night, I found myself back at the shop witch cash in hand trying the watch on. I had hatched a plan to use my student loan to buy the watch, and sustain myself on cup noodles and "free" public transport, which in fact means that this is the only watch I have ever owned that actually has not been paid off yet.

Since I bought the watch way before camera phones (or even digital photography) had become ubiquitous, there simply aren't any photos of the watch when it was new that I am aware of.

In any case, from the first time I put the watch on, I never took it off. Ever. I mean literally, the only time the clasp was opened during the first few years was when I wanted to adjust the bracelet.

This is the earliest photo I have managed to dig up, at which point it is already showing a lot of wear. The polished link parts no longer have the original mirror finish:



After college and a few attempts at various jobs and starting companies the watch accompanied me on outings around the world, from whitewater rafting in the US to surf camp in Australia.

Here's a photo from the top of Diamond Head:



After about ten years the battery hardly held a charge, and after a while it only managed to move forward in direct sunlight. That didn't bother me much, I continued to wear it for several years after it had stopped completely.

Searching for turtles on Frasier Island:









Harassment of a wombat:



Feeding a kangaroo:



A blue-tongued skink with a decent grip on the watch:



After a dive (at the time I believed that the 100m rating on the case actually meant 100m, and I hadn't read the fine print about a pressure test every year) I discovered condensation inside watch. I continued to wear it, but it was left at home more and more often.

The main reason was probably that I had recently purchased my first dive computer, a Suunto D9 with a digital compass and wireless monitoring of air pressure, which simply stayed on my wrist after the dive most of the time. This meant that it had more or less become my wristwatch by the end of 2005.

I haven't found any decent photos of this watch either, but here are a few where it is visible:











The D9 is long forgotten, sold many years ago, but of course I still have the Echo-Drive. I had dutifully continued to pay the insurance offered by the manufacturer every year, so a few years ago I decided to see if I could get it running again. To my surprise the insurance covered the repair, despite the many years of neglect.

As it turned out, the dial was fused to the solar panel, and needed to be replaced. Regrettably, the replacement part is more of a bluish grey, with a visible lines from twelve to six and three to nine. Had I known this of course I would have let the watch continue to rust in peace instead.



This is the first watch that got me hooked based primarily on aesthetics, the only quartz watch with analog hands I have ever bought and the only sun-powered watch I've owned. It is also the watch that sparked an interest in horology, even though it took several more years before it blossomed.



Fast-forwarding a few more years, just before I applied for TRF membership, I still only had limited contact with the world of higher-end watches. Ads in magazines, American Psycho and a tv documentary on the birth of Hublot were a few instances that stuck.

I had one additional window, namely Nick Hacko's news letter, which I had been subscribed to since the late nineties. How I came across a watch technician and purveyor of used watches in Australia during my college years halfway around the globe I cannot say. I do know that the e-mail updates provided an almost passive knowledge of brands, technology, history and prices, information I never used for anything.

All that changed, literally overnight:



I was sitting in a hotel bar in Kuala Lumpur where I had previously had a few drinks with an acquaintance (Matt from Canada) making requests to the house band. Earlier that day I had had a few hours to spend away from the sales expo I was attending. I had sat down at an AD in the Suria KLCC mall dressed in a suit and uncomfortable black shoes. I asked if they by any chance had the new TT Sub which had just been released at Basel earlier that year.

The elderly salesman said he would make a few calls and asked me to come back later that afternoon. A bit ashamed that something that I had just considered a pastime had been blown up to such a big thing I felt obligated to go back to at least have a look. I ended up sitting for hours comparing a 16613 to the 116613 which had magically appeared.

Finally I had to admit that I wasn't going to buy either of them for such an absurd price. (Well, what I actually said was probably more along the lines of "I'll think about it and come back".)

Well, back at the Monkey Bar, Matt was long gone, I had requested Avril for him in his absence and drunk a flock of Aussies under the table. All of a sudden one of their friends showed up with a prostitute in tow. It seemed she offered group rebates, and just like that the bar was empty.

My memory after that is not quite razor sharp, but I do remember the elderly man looking a bit taken aback when I showed up in jeans and a t-shirt soaked in beer wielding my credit card.

On my way back to the hotel I took what I believe is my first wrist shot ever:



And back home, the first not taken with the at the time fairly mediocre iPhone camera:



It was the Echo-Drive all over again.



It never came off, ever, except for photos.



It ended up in absurd situations I have never been able to explain.



It survived over 100°C in a wood-fired sauna ...



... and some really, really cold situations.





The watch ran perfectly after that, and has since been given a clean bill of health during its routine service.

It was along for dive number 200 ...



... along with several other colorful individuals.







It has also survived fermented herring, sabrage and crayfish.







It was there when I, to the girl in question's bewilderment, decided to propose.



The watch is not visible in the the video, but it is in photos taken during and after:





Then I sold it.

Why?

I'll get to that.


But first, the first watch of the perfect trio.

About four years ago I decided I wanted a BYW. I'm sure the forum had something to do with it, but the thought of having things the same age as myself has always appealed to me, and what could possibly be better than a watch? It is always with you and takes the same knocks and beatings that you do.

After looking through the models that would qualify for the specific year I was after the choice was easy, it had to be a 1675. The fact that the two-color bezel had been discontinued made it even more interesting. (Of course, at the time the 116710 BLNR had not yet been introduced.)

After deciding on a reference, and a lot of ideas from the forum, Jacek was extremely patient and helpful finding a watch in decent condition at a price I could accept. My primary concern was a good case, here's the watch I ended up getting. (Jacek's photos.)








This was my first vintage Rolex. I wasn't too concerned about condition other than the case, since I had a pretty good idea about my stand as far as vintage is concerned. Hint: It rhymes pretty well with the stance Rolex has, so vintage purists may wish to turn back now.

Anyhow, I wore the watch every now and then, and concluded that I like the idea of vintage. However, I also concluded that it needs to look like it has been taken care of, and that I need to be confident that it can take the brutality of daily life. This means that I can't be worried about bits of cracked lume coming loose, and that corrosion on the hands and marks on the dial need to go.



So, off to Rolex AD Rob Engström in Stockholm it goes, where watchmaker Peter rips out all the defective parts, as dictated by the service routines issued by Rolex HQ. The watch is returned to me in good-as-new condition, with service papers to match.



After a few seconds in front of the UV lamp ...



... it is evident that the watch, besides keeping perfect time, now has lume that is acceptable for daily use.



The watch still has a major defect, one that I wasn't willing to pay to remedy.

The bracelet is of course of sub-par quality, rattly and light.



Rolex has taken its good time getting a decent upgrade in place, decent bracelets haven't been available until the introduction of the six-number references.

However, putting a modern Oyster bracelet on a 1675, which is so much smaller and lighter than its descendants, does not feel right. Besides the weight imbalance, I don't think polished center links belong on a vintage GMT.

So, what to do?

After thirtyish e-mails with measurements, new measurements, discussions about color, thickness and everything in between, the only hurdle left was a bit of a tussle with TNT regarding commercial invoices and other documentation.

For whatever reason a small package from Indonesia flagged red, but after a few phone calls it was released to me.



What could suit a newly renovated vintage watch than a nice vintage style leather strap?



Peter Gunny delivered, pertfect fit, gorgeous handiwork and a discreetly engraved logo and serial number.



Does it work?

It works!



There a still a few bits missing though.

I turn to Bergströms, a Rolex AD in Gothenburg. I got what I came for. It is well-protected against theft. And break-ins.



Supposedly this is currently the best supplier of authentic Rolex buckles in the world, as far as price is concerned.

Perfect fit!



Just as I envisioned it.

There is still something missing though.

At first it seemed as though the sender had written the wrong address on my last package, the post office didn't want to accept my ID, which didn't match the name in their system.

Clearly displaying an aura of desperation, I ask the pimply teenager to find the package to ensure that they haven't made a mistake, which he after a number of upset stares and admonitions from the people behind me in line finally does.

My name is clearly marked on the package and the attached documentation. The clerk finally hands MY package over with a look of defeat all over his face.

The package contains two bits of precision-machined 316L steel, marked 1675.

Mounted, ready for use!



The leather is still a bit stiff, but I don't think it will take very many days for it to feel like mine.



The obligatory wrist shot.



So, with the 1675 I have managed to tick three boxes.
  • Vintage
  • Birth Year
  • 24h (although no jump hour)


On to the second watch of the perfect trio.

I sure hope all those people aren't lining up to buy one!



Nope, I was the only one, so here's a bit of an unboxing.



Nice inner box.

It is not Panerai quality, but still nice.



Sparkly!



Here we go.



Trio member number two is a Jaeger LeCoultre Ultra Thin Moon 39.



I have had this one on the rader for a long time, but have never bought one, for two reasons.

The first is that I assumed that decently priced used ones would arrive on the preloved market after the hype Hodinkee created had died down.

http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/2011/5/...thin-moon.html

This has not happened.

The second reason is that I have had a Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon at the very top of my list for a long time.

http://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/SE/e...on/1322410#/t1

It would basically do everything the MUT Moon 39 would (except the moon phase, of course) since there is definitely only room for one dress watch in my box.

However, I scratched it from the list after recently having a chance to sit down and fiddle with it for a while. The slightly larger diameter and 15% increase in thickness simply makes it too bulky for what I want this type of watch to do. Of course the price (increase by a factor of eight) also weighs heavily against it.

A few close-ups:















This is the first watch I have ever owned that actually pulled off an inspection with a loupe with flying colors.

That's two more requirements off the list.
  • Vintage
  • Year Watch
  • 24h-visning
  • Dress Watch
  • Complication which is not second, date, rotatable bezel or 24h

On the wrist.



Excuse me, would you by any chance know if there was a full moon yesterday?

One moment, please, let me check.



Yes sir, it was so.


Now, off to the AD for the third watch of the perfect trio.

But first, some bubbly.



And a very nice 1655.



A few more glasses required.



There is only one brand in the business with outer boxes that are this spiritless.



Getting there.



No mistaking the brand.



One more for good measure.



Unboxings will never be what they were now that the lint cloth is gone.



Bezel protector!



Out of the box.



And peel the plastic ...

... some 15-20 minutes later.



Nice heft.



So, what was wrong with the 116613LB that had performed so well for so long?

Well, gold. Yellow gold.

I thought I'd get used to it, but I never really did.

But why worry when there are other materials to be had?

This, my friends, is the ultimate diver. Of course, the vintage crowd doesn't agree, but here are the facts.
  • The bezel on early Submariners can be turned both ways. Dangerous! Of course the bezel on a 116619LB can only be turned counter-clockwise.
  • Old watches have no lume. Dangerous! Of course a 116619LB has lume that will last the whole dive. In comparison, a tired old 1665 is about as much a tool watch as a DJ the diamonds markers on the dial.
  • Real tools need to be kept in decent shape. The lugs on an old 1680 cannot be polished many times without looking anorectic. Silly. A 116619LB can be polished hundreds of times without the case looking bad.
  • A tool must be able to withstand its working environment. Plexi Subs are based on a flawed design that allows salt water to be trapped against the case.



(Check out the details here.)

So, that's the last two requirements checked off.
  • Vintage
  • Birth Year
  • 24h
  • Dress Watch
  • Complication which is not second, date, rotatable bezel or 24h
  • Diver
  • Beater

On the wrist, ready for a frosty morning.



I already know what it can take, now I'm looking forward to giving it a good beating.


Finally, here it is, the perfect trio.



Anyone figured out what the theme is?

And what about the keeper?

First, some decent rum and a good Churchill.





Well, it turns out all three watches are birth year watches, only two of them aren't mine.




The KEEPER

Fast-forwarding another few months, to about 15 weeks ago, the keeper (and owner of the two last watches) has arrived.



Looks like I'll be getting to wear them for a while though.



I think by now the theme is fairly obvious, no?

Thanks for looking!

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Old 23 June 2015, 09:33 AM   #2
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Wow! Great pictures!!

Congrats on your perfect trio and life man!
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Old 23 June 2015, 09:35 AM   #3
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FANTASTIC pictures!!! Gracias for sharing!!!!
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Old 23 June 2015, 09:42 AM   #4
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Wow.... Great story and photos, you're a very talented photographer


Congrats on the watches and most importantly your baby



Dino
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Old 23 June 2015, 09:43 AM   #5
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Thank you for putting so much effort into this! Fascinating watch travelogue
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Old 23 June 2015, 09:45 AM   #6
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What a great story! Congrats on the baby!
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Old 23 June 2015, 09:48 AM   #7
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that was kinda cool to read!

cheers
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Old 23 June 2015, 09:51 AM   #8
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What a story!
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Old 23 June 2015, 09:54 AM   #9
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Cool story and pics, Congrats
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Old 23 June 2015, 09:59 AM   #10
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What a great journey! Thank you for sharing.
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Old 23 June 2015, 10:05 AM   #11
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Nice write up
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Old 23 June 2015, 10:06 AM   #12
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Cool stuff. Congrats on your new born.
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Old 23 June 2015, 10:06 AM   #13
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wow what a post... a true epic journey.

thanks so much for taking the time to share with us all. great stuff.
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Old 23 June 2015, 10:10 AM   #14
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Well-posted indeed
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Old 23 June 2015, 10:12 AM   #15
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Fantastic story and some of the best pictures I have seen on trf. Well done sir, it looks like you have a very exciting life.

You are also the first person I have ever seen refer to the white gold sub as a beater
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Old 23 June 2015, 10:17 AM   #16
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Great pictures and journey.

Love your well thought out trio.

I really love that JLC, I will have either the SS or RG at aome point.
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Old 23 June 2015, 10:21 AM   #17
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I wasn't expecting that...But great story! Awesome pics!
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Old 23 June 2015, 10:34 AM   #18
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Great story and very good read! Thanks for sharing!
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Old 23 June 2015, 10:38 AM   #19
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Wow! Great read, thanks for sharing. :)
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Old 23 June 2015, 10:41 AM   #20
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Great story! Congrats on the trio and happy kiddo. Long lives and happiness for you and the fam.
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Old 23 June 2015, 10:44 AM   #21
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Very professionally put together! Great story and that picture of the next generation is the best! Congratulations
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Old 23 June 2015, 10:47 AM   #22
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The perfect trio, and a KEEPER. That's it. I'm done. Absolutely nailed it!

Did anyone really read this or are you guys pretending with "great story"?
Any how.... Congrats. Im here for the pics and title is great


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Old 23 June 2015, 10:49 AM   #23
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Wow, I actually really enjoyed reading that! Thanks for sharing - that's a great story and the pictures are awesome as well!
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Old 23 June 2015, 10:51 AM   #24
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Nicely done !!

When your son becomes a man that LB is going to make a handsome duo.
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Old 23 June 2015, 10:51 AM   #25
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Speechless.... Simply awesome sir
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Old 23 June 2015, 10:56 AM   #26
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Awesome write up and pics, thanks for sharing.

Congratulations on your trio.
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Old 23 June 2015, 10:56 AM   #27
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Wow.

Enough said.
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Old 23 June 2015, 10:56 AM   #28
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Heck of a story! Congrats on your new baby!
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Old 23 June 2015, 10:59 AM   #29
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I really enjoyed reading that! Thank you for sharing it. Quality content.
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Old 23 June 2015, 11:00 AM   #30
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I thoroughly enjoyed this.
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