$30k Budget: Which of these grail-level pieces, or pair of other options?

[alpharulez]

Originally Posted by eyeheartny

Thanks for sharing these! Some really interesting pieces in there. I'm definitely not on the haute horlogerie end of things; my interests are in "lifetime" purchases that will last, be durable, need infrequent servicing, and easy to clean (my SubC gets a soap/purified water treatment every week or so and a deeper clean with a toothbrush in the nooks/crannies every few months). I'm not taken in by exclusivity or small-batch stuff.



On the other hand, I am very impressed by precision manufacturing with high build quality and tactile enjoyment. That's part of my fascination with Rolex-- they are true masters of precision design/production. Every little part of my 114060 is tight, precise, solid, etc. The feel of the screw-in crown is incredibly reassuring, the movement of the bezel on its ceramic bearings is just awesome, etc. I love wearing a piece that feels so crisp/precise.



I'm admittedly very, very picky about how luxury objects feel. I've never been ultra-impressed with the build/fit & finish of Omega. Take the date window on the GSOTM: looks really sloppy to my eye. Their bracelets are not super impressive on the Omegas I've handled as well. I wasn't all that wowed by the JLC Reverso's case finishing either when I saw it. Pretty dials with the guilloché, but not extraordinary. The Panerai I had and sold (PAM 422) was finished beautifully and had a buttery-smooth manual wind movement that was a real joy to handle, but the piece was too big and clunky/uncomfortable for my taste.



These are of course subjective judgments, but they're not unconsidered opinions: when I spend my hard-earned money on stuff I like it to feel worth it. In my wardrobe, for example, I have no problem paying >$100 for a sweatshirt if it is really well-made, like a Reigning Champ one. Sure it's just a plain grey sweatshirt, but it fits perfectly and feels great.



All that is to say that I'm less attracted to small-brand pieces that may be rare/amazing accomplishments horologically, but need more frequent service or be less than perfectly reliable.

Have you considered the Marine series from Breguet?



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[PJ S]

Originally Posted by alpharulez

I may be misinterpreting this, but does that mean I got 2 points, you know, for the conversion kick?

[eyeheartny]

Originally Posted by alpharulez

Have you considered the Marine series from Breguet?



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I have looked at them online, but none of them really speak to me style wise. I know Breguet is a great house but I haven’t been really excited by anything.

[sgwatch]

Originally Posted by SearChart

DD40 chocolate!

I really like this one! (although I haven't seen it live).

[woodsworth]

RG/Olive or 15202st imo!

[jb335]

Originally Posted by woodsworth

RG/Olive or 15202st imo!

Two of my favorite watches, but I think the 15202 may be small on him. 8 inch wrist.

Plus, the 15202 is virtually unattainable unless you've have AP connections.


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[woodsworth]

Originally Posted by jb335

Two of my favorite watches, but I think the 15202 may be small on him. 8 inch wrist.

Plus, the 15202 is virtually unattainable unless you've have AP connections.


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You can obtain them via trusted sellers for under 30k still

I think due to how the RO wears larger than the dimensions suggest, it'd still work for an 8 inch wrist. Also, it'll wear larger because of how loud/flashy it is

[beshannon]

Originally Posted by PJ S

Let me know when you put up some decent options to choose from, I’d love to cast my vote…

Exactly

I do not agree with any of those

[ILikeTacos]

Go for the DD. If you do RG, I would go for green or brown dial, depending on which you liked better on your wrist. Good luck!

[Billfav]

I have a 15450 bought new. I really like the details on the watch, it is beautifully finished and you don't see them everyday. BUT mine has been finicky and the 15400 shares the same 3120 caliber (as well a several other models). Back to AP twice and fortunately under warranty. Never had that happen with a timepiece at any price level. It makes me question their QC. I can say their service has been top notch. This is just my experience others have not had this problem. On the other hand my experience with Rolex QC has always been extraordinary. Just consistently outstanding. I don't know how they do it with the volumes of timepieces they produce.

[dmash]

Originally Posted by AK797

I'd go for 1 big one, including a Lange 1 or 1815 Up/Down too. Probably the AP as you have a Rolex. Can add a used Lange Saxonia for the best value dress watch out there.

Vacheron Patrimony Small Seconds?

Don’t get me wrong, I love the Lange, but that 35mm is a total deal breaker for me.

Originally Posted by PJ S

Let me know when you put up some decent options to choose from, I’d love to cast my vote…

X1000

Some pretty weak choices for $30k, IMO

[eyeheartny]

Originally Posted by dmash

Some pretty weak choices for $30k, IMO

Interesting. What would you recommend, knowing that I have a pretty casual lifestyle (haven't worn a suit in years), that I'm looking for a 'lifetime' purchase, etc?

[eyeheartny]

In today's installment of Rolex Dealers are Ridiculous, I spent a few minutes calling the two major San Diego ADs to find out if they have the RG DD40 in Olive and Sundust. One of them told me I'd need to pay a 50% deposit each for them to order the Olive and Sundust to even have me try them on, which was non-refundable in case I decided I didn't like that color. Needless to say I won't be giving them my business. The other one doesn't know what they have in stock and is having to call me back to check.

Unreal.

It's likely I'll have to drive 2 hours to a completely different city to even try on what I'm looking for.

[dmash]

Originally Posted by eyeheartny

Interesting. What would you recommend, knowing that I have a pretty casual lifestyle (haven't worn a suit in years), that I'm looking for a 'lifetime' purchase, etc?

So no dress options? Why you looking at DD and DJ then? I’m biased though as I find those pieces to be incredibly bland. Especially when you’re talking DD prices, way more interesting stuff.

I like the 15400 suggestion you picked out. White face is easily under $20k too. PJ had some awesome stuff, but I’m going to assume you’re like most and want to keep it more mainstream high end branding (absolutely nothing wrong with that and in no way an insult). If we’re talking not ‘dressy’, here’s some solid suggestions:

AP ROO (ton of colors, 42 or 44mm models)
AP ROC (a lot of people like the panda dial)
Lange 1815 Chrono (white face is in budget, black face is slight stretch, this is the clear winner if you wanted to save a little, a grail watch for some)
Patek 5164 (if you can stretch budget a touch, incredible versatility)


All my other suggestions are stuff I’d say to wear with ‘dressy’ wear so I don’t think you’d be too interested.

[jb335]

Originally Posted by eyeheartny

In today's installment of Rolex Dealers are Ridiculous, I spent a few minutes calling the two major San Diego ADs to find out if they have the RG DD40 in Olive and Sundust. One of them told me I'd need to pay a 50% deposit each for them to order the Olive and Sundust to even have me try them on, which was non-refundable in case I decided I didn't like that color. Needless to say I won't be giving them my business. The other one doesn't know what they have in stock and is having to call me back to check.

Unreal.

It's likely I'll have to drive 2 hours to a completely different city to even try on what I'm looking for.

That is laughable.

Yeah, drive up to LA and go to Geary's in either Beverly Hills, Century City or Santa Monica. They will have them in stock, and be happy to let you try them on and take all the pics you want.

South Coast may have them too and sightly closer.

[jb335]

Originally Posted by woodsworth

You can obtain them via trusted sellers for under 30k still

I think due to how the RO wears larger than the dimensions suggest, it'd still work for an 8 inch wrist. Also, it'll wear larger because of how loud/flashy it is

Good point about the 15202 (or any RO) wearing larger. True story.

I still wouldn't refer to paying ~$6k over MSRP to a Grey as attainable though. It's all relative though.

And I think if he did go the AP route, the 15400 would still be better due to sizing and also, arguably a better blue dial on that one compared to the Jumbo. But yeah, I'm personally a 15202 guy myself.

[PJ S]

Originally Posted by eyeheartny

In today's installment of Rolex Dealers are Ridiculous, I spent a few minutes calling the two major San Diego ADs to find out if they have the RG DD40 in Olive and Sundust. One of them told me I'd need to pay a 50% deposit each for them to order the Olive and Sundust to even have me try them on, which was non-refundable in case I decided I didn't like that color. Needless to say I won't be giving them my business. The other one doesn't know what they have in stock and is having to call me back to check.

Unreal.

It's likely I'll have to drive 2 hours to a completely different city to even try on what I'm looking for.

Hence one reason I tried to open your eyes to real alternatives worth giving up some of your time for.
None of the jumping through hoops and all sorts of palaver to buy a mass produced commodity.
As a “lifetime” purchase, you can pretty much dispense with concerns over residual value, and the movements will be robust enough to not needing babied.

[eyeheartny]

Originally Posted by PJ S

Hence one reason I tried to open your eyes to real alternatives worth giving up some of your time for.
None of the jumping through hoops and all sorts of palaver to buy a mass produced commodity.
As a “lifetime” purchase, you can pretty much dispense with concerns over residual value, and the movements will be robust enough to not needing babied.

Perhaps I just have pedestrian taste-- I can recognize that the pieces you linked are beautiful and examples of the best of horlogerie, but I don't yearn to own them.

[PJ S]

Originally Posted by eyeheartny

Perhaps I just have pedestrian taste-- I can recognize that the pieces you linked are beautiful and examples of the best of horlogerie, but I don't yearn to own them.

Definitely not – not with an AP and Ressence listed as potential considerations.
Neither one, and especially the Ressence, are remotely pedestrian in any way, shape, or form.
As the old adage goes… you can lead a horse to water, but you can’t make it drink.

Just to be clear, I’m not have a go at you – your tastes are your tastes, and if my suggestions don’t match with them, then that’s fine.
Maybe if you get a chance/make the effort, and see some of them in the metal, your perception might just change, and you’ll find something about them that does speak to you.

My point through all this is when it gets to such a serious expenditure, I don’t see the point of a PM tool watch, even though we all know it’ll never be used as such.
So, for everyday casual usage, and which won’t even see dirty dish water, why not buy something that really does warrant the sort of expense being considered.

[eyeheartny]

Didn't think you were having a go at me!

I admire people who get deep into the horologically-significant pieces and manufacturers, but it's just not me. A good friend is currently looking for one of the Piaget Altiplano 1200s (ultra-thin skeleton) and while I get the beauty/brilliance of the movement, I'd never consider buying one.

Originally Posted by PJ S

Definitely not – not with an AP and Ressence listed as potential considerations.
Neither one, and especially the Ressence, are remotely pedestrian in any way, shape, or form.

The Ressence is still really appealing to me. As much as I have a PM itch, I am intrigued by and am still considering a two-watch combo of a DJ41 with a Ressence Type 1 Squared. I adore cushion-case watches, and if I take the Panerai 512 off my list I can get a DJII and a Ressence Type 1 Squared and stay within budget. The Ressence is just such an unusual bit of engineering.

Originally Posted by PJ S

My point through all this is when it gets to such a serious expenditure, I don’t see the point of a PM tool watch, even though we all know it’ll never be used as such.
So, for everyday casual usage, and which won’t even see dirty dish water, why not buy something that really does warrant the sort of expense being considered.

Part of what is at issue is that I like to be able to keep things clean. Even though it doesn't see especially hard duty, my SubC gets washed regularly with soap/water. I find that regular cleaning helps cut down on micro-scratching, as the dirt/sweat/dust that people leave on their watches definitely contribute to scratches.

Are you classifying the Day-Date as a tool watch because of the water resistance? I guess compared to a Saxonia it's a tool watch, but it is still far less of one than my Sub.

[PJ S]

^
I suppose I’m lumping it in with the Sub and Daytona, and as much as I shouldn’t, it just doesn’t strike me as worth anywhere near what it costs (even allowing for permitted AD discount!) – not when you can see what else the same money or quite a bit less can provide you with.

With regards to cleanliness – there’s absolutely nothing whatsoever preventing you from using an optical (satin or suede weave microfiber) cloth, and something like Verat cleaner, to keep the watch free of human detritus and looking pristine.
So, there’s no need to veer away from leather strap watches or those with only 30-50m WR – on a 30K watch, you’ll just be a bit more careful rather than throwing it in the sink, under running water.
Common sense prevails, or should do, when you’ve worked hard in order to treat yourself to an expensive item.

Good luck with whatever you ultimately settle on, whether mass produced or one of only a handful made that year – enjoy it fully, irrespective.

[Billfav]

A Journe CB - can be used for informal occasion or formal. Stunning blue dial that blows away the AP blue (no offense to anyone and just my opinion).

Or VC Overseas. Another obtainable sporty luxury watch in the same league as the others on your list.

Hate to be the guy to suggest items off the list as that was on your original post. But among the ones listed in your post I would go with a precious metal DD40.

[Jay (Eire)]

Are we still talking about this? (Joking)

Talking with a friend for the last week about his buying of a "good" watch. Trying my best to make him aware of the hundreds of choices in his price range and honestly it's really overwhelming for him. Part of this is me trying to prevent him from making a silly financial decision (in buying at the wrong price).

Most of us took years to find our style, the watch or watches that fit our lifestyle, levels of horological interest and keep us satisfied. In that process most made mistakes, sold stuff, wondered why we ever bought that one or the other one. And in the end it seems, to me at least, to be a continued evolution of taste and interest.

Buy the DD, wear it. It seems to fit your style. Just buy at the best price you can do if you need to move it as it's no longer your thing the financial hit won't be so great.



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[eyeheartny]

So I took a trip to a different city today to try on a few different pieces and see the green-dial DD40 in person. An eye-opening trip to say the least.

• I'm eliminating RG options for the time being and sticking with white/cool metals.
• Am still considering the WG/green DD40.
• Fell deeply in love with the Grande Lange 1 in white gold/black.
• Also really loved two JLC models, the Master Ultra Thin Small Seconds in 40mm with a blue dial and the Master Ultra Thin Moon in WG/grey dial.
• Am going to fly to Las Vegas to try on the AP 15400 in silver dial and the WG/green DD40 together. I realized I need to see the AP before making this decision.
• I am adding a DJ41 in SS/WG with blue stick dial to my list of options for a 2nd piece to accompany the AP

So my current options are:

1. Rolex DD40 in White Gold, Green Dial, Roman Numerals
2. AP 15400 Silver Dial and JLC Master Ultra Thin Small Seconds Blue Dial
3. AP 15400 Silver Dial and JLC Master Ultra Thin Moon, WG with Grey Dial
4. AP 15400 Silver Dial and Rolex DJ41 in SS/WG on Jubilee with blue dial

Thoughts? Feedback? Ideas?

Here are a few of the pieces on me:

[jb335]

This is mind blowing news. The leading candidate has been eliminated!

The AP boutique in Beverly Hills has a 15400 black and white dial in stock. I know, because I was just there.

I really like the Lange and JLCs on you. Almost equally.



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[AK797]

Go for the Lange 1 like I suggested three months ago.

JLC grey is pretty sweet too.

[sgwatch]

That Lange looks great on you. I've loved that brand for years! I have a relatively small wrist, but would still pick the Grand Lange One. I think the JLCs have too much blank space and the date on the gray dial has a date that is too small. Just my opinions, with the eyes getting worse as I get older. :-)

[Watch Admirer]

DD40 is the bomb

[dmash]

I thought you didn’t want dressier stuff, and only more casual? Also, why are you ‘deeply in love’ with the Lange, but it’s not an option? Lol this entire thread is just confusing.


I highly suggest you think this out quite a bit more before plopping down $30k. You’re kind of all over the place. No offense whatsoever, but you need to narrow it down before you make a purchase you’ll just flip (and lose money).

[AK797]

Originally Posted by dmash

I thought you didn’t want dressier stuff, and only more casual? Also, why are you ‘deeply in love’ with the Lange, but it’s not an option? Lol this entire thread is just confusing.


I highly suggest you think this out quite a bit more before plopping down $30k. You’re kind of all over the place. No offense whatsoever, but you need to narrow it down before you make a purchase you’ll just flip (and lose money).

I suspect it's a case of the Langes and dress watches look superb, but the sports are more versatile and safer to buy, and easier sell.