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Old 13 July 2023, 10:57 PM   #31
vliberman
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I would say maybe AP ROO, bought a nice one recently for £18500.
Yesterday I traded my Submariner for a Bulgari octo finissimo s and would certainly say nothing from Rolex if you’re actually interested in watchmaking and horology.
Watches like the Bulgari and the AP involve hand finishing and decoration, horology wise on a different level to Rolex
You are seriously suggesting that ROO is somehow superior horology to Rolex? Can u elaborate?
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Old 13 July 2023, 11:27 PM   #32
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You are seriously suggesting that ROO is somehow superior horology to Rolex? Can u elaborate?

If he isn't then I will. The difference between the two brands is that Rolex is focused on their Brand and the accuracy and durability of their watches. AP on the other hand is all about paying meticulous attention to every single detail in the watch, especially the watch movement and they finish them in a way that Rolex doesn't even compare. A Rolex movement is of very high quality, but it is missing that extra detail, the superb hand finishing that you will find in an AP watch. The hand engraving which you will rarely if ever find in a Rolex is commonplace in an AP. Look if a Rolex movement was a thing of beauty and showed off the same level of craftsmanship that as an AP, then Rolex would not have solid case backs.
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Old 14 July 2023, 01:24 PM   #33
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Pre owned Breguet XXI in rose gold, goes for about $13K
Titanium, blue dialed Fifty fathoms on a bracelet also about $13
Pre owned 2nd gen VC overseas chrono
the blue dialed 3rd get VC chrono that sohAIS has for $33K- I'd find the extra $$$ for that.
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Old 14 July 2023, 09:52 PM   #34
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You are seriously suggesting that ROO is somehow superior horology to Rolex? Can u elaborate?

You should be asking about the octo not the AP
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Old 14 July 2023, 10:04 PM   #35
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You should be asking about the octo not the AP
I haven’t looked at therm so can’t comment… I own ROO (Dracula) and can attest to it being piece of sh1t from horological standpoint. I don’t understand how I paid over $30k for it…
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Old 14 July 2023, 11:26 PM   #36
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JLC Geophysic 1958. It’s a great ‘all rounder’ from one of the best Manufacturers out there. It’s not too dressy or too sporty and is right at home in any environment. It has 100m water resistance as well. Plus, there were only a limited number ever made so it’s highly unlikely you’ll ever see the watch on anyone else’s wrist.
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Old 15 July 2023, 12:07 AM   #37
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I haven’t looked at therm so can’t comment… I own ROO (Dracula) and can attest to it being piece of sh1t from horological standpoint. I don’t understand how I paid over $30k for it…



Some APs are better than others. Mixed bag. Rolex is very good at what they do. Robust and tight tolerances. AP on the lower end is sort of a compromise. Pedestrian mostly machined finishing and uninspiring designs both ergonomically and aesthetically at a HH price point. It’s all down to personal preferences though as many could make the same gripes about my favorite watches.
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Old 15 July 2023, 01:19 AM   #38
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Ironically it’s harder to find an all-rounder at 20K; at that price point you’re at the start of fantastic slightly niche pieces: Czapek, VCO, PF, etc.

For general versatility I’d go with a classic, and use the leftover for a nice vacation:

DJ 36mm
Explorer 36mm
Santos de Cartier Medium

You can wear something like these anytime on bracelet, fancily on leather, casually on rubber, and never worry about water and all that.
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Old 15 July 2023, 02:22 AM   #39
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Vacheron Fifty-Six
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Old 15 July 2023, 02:36 AM   #40
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Vacheron Fifty-Six
OP’s criteria is preferably not too dressy. If we are including dress watches, I would say the simple manual-winding VC Traditionnelle in rose gold. I love mine!
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Old 15 July 2023, 02:59 AM   #41
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This just popped up on the Czapek board OP. Various other color rubber straps made too. Very diverse salmon dial imho.

https://www.rolexforums.com/showpost...postcount=2860

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Old 16 July 2023, 07:00 PM   #42
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I paid about that for a preowned breguet tradition retrograde seconds. Literally nothing comes close in the finish department.

Not joking, it’s finished better than 50k watches lol
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Old 16 July 2023, 08:44 PM   #43
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I paid about that for a preowned breguet tradition retrograde seconds. Literally nothing comes close in the finish department.

Not joking, it’s finished better than 50k watches lol
Not exactly a watch that fits OP's "not too dressy" wish...
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Old 16 July 2023, 10:33 PM   #44
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This just popped up on the Czapek board OP. Various other color rubber straps made too. Very diverse salmon dial imho.

https://www.rolexforums.com/showpost...postcount=2860

Attachment 1379089
I know people love these but design is so uninspiring…. It might look better in person but just meh..

Reality is that for under 20k, Rolex is the king.. Offers some of the best movements and incredible brand recognition/ horological prowess. It doesn’t structure its movements to look like picket watch ones, who cares. You are looking for a sporty watch. However, it will keep almost perfect time and be indestructible.
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Old 17 July 2023, 01:25 PM   #45
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Here’s one (of many) that I’ve been eyeing…



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Old 21 October 2023, 01:35 PM   #46
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Because you're looking for something sporty, and as much as I hate paying over retail and never have, I'd either go for an Omega 321 Ed White or a Rolex BLRO. These are both selling around your price range and I'd probably willing to pay market price for either. Boring? Arguably. Timeless? Yes!
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Old 20 December 2023, 09:14 AM   #47
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+1 for cartier santos
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Old 20 December 2023, 11:06 AM   #48
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So probably too dressy but I’d be partial to a Lange 1815 in white gold, which if you look can be found about that price. Rose gold often a little less.


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Old 20 December 2023, 11:53 AM   #49
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I vote the Breguet 5817 rose gold. Partial as I bought one this year :)
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Old 21 December 2023, 12:09 AM   #50
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I like this on for under 20K
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Old 21 December 2023, 01:50 AM   #51
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"Not too dressy" does away with all my suggestions. Sports watches are hyped/overpriced. If you care about movements and finishing, the bargains are in dress watches.
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Old 21 December 2023, 05:33 AM   #52
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Chopard LUC with Geneva Seal from pre-2015 is where the real value is. Not everyone’s cuppa, but bang for buck nonetheless.
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Old 21 December 2023, 05:42 AM   #53
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Chopard LUC with Geneva Seal from pre-2015 is where the real value is. Not everyone’s cuppa, but bang for buck nonetheless.
not just geneval seal, cosc, guilloche dial, thin, and the quattro version has 8 day power reserve
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Old 21 December 2023, 08:17 AM   #54
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Old 21 December 2023, 04:03 PM   #55
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Not a common selection, but this would be mine at under 20k used ..

GO Panomatic Calendar in rose gold. 100 hour power reserve and beautifully finished movement.

I know some call it a poor mans Lange, but I love the horological value you get in a GO pre owned.
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Old 21 December 2023, 05:30 PM   #56
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not just geneval seal, cosc, guilloche dial, thin, and the quattro version has 8 day power reserve
Exactly. Basically anything with the 1.96 and 1.98 movements is worth considering. I have louped a 3.96 vs 1.98 and the difference is stark. 1.98 more finely hand-finished, no vertical striations on the anglage. In addition to the Metalem dials in the 1860 and 1863 there’s also the 1903 series (like the Quattro Mark II) tuxedo dials with a sunray guilloche pattern, but I have not been able to find confirmation that this is done by hand.
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