What does a service on a Rolex include?

[Andad]

Thank you Vanessa.

[Jazz]

Just wanted to say thank you for an excellent, informative post, Vanessa.

[biggums]

Now I won't feel bad about the cost to service. Lots of work!

Thanks!

[Bisquitlips]

Originally Posted by biggums

Now I won't feel bad about the cost to service. Lots of work!

Thanks!

X10!!!

[Parachrom]

I was not aware that RSc does not have a watchmaker touch my Sd until the final timing phase. In effect does that mean I am getting an apprentice working on my SD instead of a watchmaker?

[mrtian97]

For Sub with date, stainless steel, how often do they need service if nothing wrong with the watch? every 5 yr?
Thanks

[ym3135]

thanks, i now want to have mine serviced unnecessarily. LOL

[bahamadoug]

Vanessa, what a dynamite writeup. I was getting so into your detail that I am sorry you didn't give more detail. Fascinating profession and quite insightful into the world of small pieces of machinery and parts. Thanks for taking the time to write this. The fee for the overhaul is sure worth it. They don't call you watch doctor without good reason !!!!

[He Man]

Hi Vanessa, my uncle left me his explorer II which is around 10 years old. It has never been service, it keeps great time however, it is all scratched up and ding everywhere. Can it be fixed to look like it is brand new (reasonably). If so, how much would it cost me? Thanks! Great post BTW.

[Vanessa CW21]

Originally Posted by He Man

Hi Vanessa, my uncle left me his explorer II which is around 10 years old. It has never been service, it keeps great time however, it is all scratched up and ding everywhere. Can it be fixed to look like it is brand new (reasonably). If so, how much would it cost me? Thanks! Great post BTW.

Yes, it can be looking like new again, but not by me...
RSC does phenomenal work on the refinishing of Explorer II's!
You will get an estimate from them first. You can send it in through an AD or you can send it directly.
Good luck.

[MC28REPSOL]

Hey Vanessa,

how much would you charge to service a Sub?

your write up really makes me confident in your work not to mention i just want to have it done after reading your post.

[Brushpup]

Originally Posted by MC28REPSOL

Hey Vanessa,

how much would you charge to service a Sub?

your write up really makes me confident in your work not to mention i just want to have it done after reading your post.

She mentioned 400 in her OP........check it out.

[Nick1959]

Eventhough I do not like to pay for the service compared to mechanical things of similar price it is not high cost. Think of your car. If you watch is a dily wear it works more than a car of cab driver. Conmpare the running cost and maintanance.

[iwhelan]

Thanks for the information Vanessa.

[hsung]

Thanks Vanessa for sharing your work

When I last serviced my Sub at an RSC, it was running very slow (around an hour) for the first day or so. Then, when I wound it, the crown did not turn smoothly. After that, everything seems to go back to normal.

Do you know the reason for these phenomena?

[brkanand]

Thanks Vanessa. You explained so well. When my turn comes up, I am going to pay with a smile.

[Dr.B]

Great post Vanessa.

[tomee]

does rolex keep tabs on services?

like if i bought a 2nd hand rolex, could i chase up with rolex if it has been serviced or not?

[JohnLips]

Thanks Vanessa. Very interesting.

[Rock]

I am always a little 'humbled' when I contemplate the skill and dedication possessed by workers who are rarely recognised for their talent. We put the 'professions' on a pedestal but fail to recognise the people who make the world go round (or in this case , the hands). I hope we don't ever run out of the skilled craftsperson. Hopefully 'supply & demand' will always make it viable for these special people to engage in these areas of work.

[inspires]

Thanks Vanessa - greatly appreciate the detailed post!

[nektar]

thanks!

[subsea-sub]

very interesting vanessa, thanks for sharing.


cheers
mike

[Vanessa CW21]

You're welcome guys!

[Montanan]

OK Van,

You can have my Explorer 2 for a redo.
If you want to...email me the details as to how this can happen.

TIA mia
Mike Barts
[email protected] or 406.390.0099

[JohnBoy]

Thanks from a newbie! A real enlightenment for many of us by a qualified professional! More cheers.
John

[LUCAS SILVA]

Vanessa what is the cost of a standard service for a lady ss datejust. THANKS,

LUCAS

Originally Posted by Vanessa

Some common questions I hear a lot: "What does a service include?" "Why does it cost so much?" "How long does it take to service a Rolex?"
I'm sorry if the answer is a bit long, but this is what, why and how long:



This is what I do when I service a Rolex….

I open the case and remove the rotor.
I remove the movement from the case. I continue to take off the hands and remove the dial and date disc. The mainspring gets unwound and at this point the movement goes into the cleaner.

I continue with taking the case apart; removing the bezel, and crystal.
I change into a different lab coat, put on gloves and a face mask to start the refinishing of the case and bracelet.
First I buff the case with a hard wheel and a certain compound which makes the case so hot that the wheel starts smoking. I then clean the case in the ultrasonic cleaner and continue with a different polishing wheel that’s softer. I will high-polish the bezel and case back and the bracelet if applicable.
Once the case back is clean in the ultrasonic, I will now high-polish that one as well.
I will change the polishing wheel once more to a soft wheel and again a different compound and give it the finishing super high polish on the parts needed.
While all those finished parts are in the cleaner, I will brush polish the clasp with a hard wheel, followed by a softer brush wheel.
Then I tape off the polished areas on the bracelet to brush-polish the rest of it. When that’s done I change back to the high-polish wheel to polish the side of the bracelet and clasp.
I steam clean all the parts of the case and put them on a dryer. Once the case is dry, I put the final brush polish to the lugs and case back with a special filing technique.


The movement (let’s say a 3135) has finished the pre-cleaning process, and can now be checked and disassembled.
The date parts are first, flowed by the automatic mechanism: I first check the end-shake* on all wheels.
I then take out all (3) screws and put them in the small cleaning baskets. I will check the rotor axle and replace it when necessary. I continue with the disassembling of the movement.
I first check the end-shake on the balance wheel. Then I remove the shock-absorbent jewels. The balance wheel is carefully removed and put aside after I unscrewed the 2 screws that hold the bridge in place. I proceed with the pallet fork. Again I check end-shake and remove 2 screws to take off the bridge and remove the pallet fork. At this point I check the freedom of the train with winding the mainspring just a little bit. Then I check all the gears’ end-shakes and remove the 3 screws that hold the train bridge to remove the escape wheel, second wheel, third wheel and great wheel. I then check every wheel meticulously to check for worn pivots, and replace the one that are not perfect anymore with new ones.
When at any moment the end-shake wasn’t satisfactory I then move the jewels up or down to correct the error and reassemble the wheel to check again until it's perfect.
I proceed with removing the screws on the ratchet wheel and bridge to remove the barrel with the mainspring. Now I can open the barrel and remove the mainspring which goes straight into my garbage can.
I proceed with taking the rest of the watch apart, including the winding mechanism. I put the balance back onto the main plate to prevent the hairspring from getting tangled up while it’s cleaning.
Now the disassembled movement goes into the cleaner again to get its full cleaning. In the mean time I’ll have a coffee, and I will assemble the case with crystal and bezel.

When the movement is clean I put on some finger cots, and start with putting the reversing wheels, pallet fork and escape wheel into a special liquid lubricant.
I apply grease on the inside of the barrel wall and put a new mainspring in it. I close the barrel and check the end-shake of the arbor to make sure it’s free.
I continue with taking the reversing wheels, pallet fork and escape wheel out of the special lubricant and dry them with hot air from a hairdryer. Now I can take the balance back of the main plate and start putting the watch back together. Again the watch has 6 different lubricants and every lube has a very specific role into making the watch run as perfect as possible. When a grease or oil gets applied too much or too little, or at the wrong location within the watch, the amplitude and timing of the watch won’t be as it should.
Once the watch is assembled (and I’m not going to explain every single step as this is already getting way to long) I put it on my timer to check the beat, amplitude and time. Everything gets adjusted accordingly if necessary and I time the watch in 6 different positions to be within -1 to +4.

Once that’s achieved I assemble the dial and hands (when the date jumps at 12) and put the movement in the case. At this time I do the final timing at full wind and half wind, and adjust if necessary.
Then I assemble the automatic mechanism and check for freedom of the rotor.

Once that’s all up to standard, I close the case with new gaskets and put it on a dry pressure test. When it passes (or not) I proceed with the wet test, and make sure the watch doesn’t leak.
I can then put the bracelet on, set the time equal to my atomic clock and store it in my safe with the crown left, until the next day.
Then I check the time again compared to the atomic clock and note the amount of seconds it’s + or -.
Then I put it on my automatic winder for a day, check again and finally I put it dial up in my safe again to check the next day, and the day thereafter to see when the watch stopped to check the power reserve.
At this time, if everything is within standards I call the customer that his/her watch is ready. If not, I have to find the problem, possibly adjust or start over! This all comes with a 2-year warranty on the work performed.

The tools and materials needed to work on Rolex watches and to keep the account in positive standing are about a $30,000 investment. Plus we have to maintain them and pay rent for the work space. I have gone to a 3-year full-time watchmaking school and undergone many hours of specialized training to do this job.

So now, let’s see… hmmm I guess the four hundred-something dollars I charge might not be enough if I think about it…

*end-shake: the free longitudinal movement of arbors or the like between bearings.
That means I have to evaluate the amount of movement of a wheel between the jewels. Some can be 0.01mm others 0.02 up to 0.06mm. This can only be determined by the experienced, and louped watchmaker's eye!


Vanessa

[RolexPete]

Great post. I assume this is SOP for all competent watchmakers that service Rolex watches?

[Vanessa CW21]

Thanks again guys!

Originally Posted by RolexPete

Great post. I assume this is SOP for all competent watchmakers that service Rolex watches?

Yes, it should be the norm for all Rolex trained watchmakers around the world.

[KJJ]

Thanks!