Bracelet Removal, Touch-up, Replacement..

[Tools]

A lot of members seem to be interested in taking off their bracelet...and others about touching up the bracelet..

So, I thought I would combine the two.

Some of my watches get pretty beat up...especially if I'm out in the rocks or engaged in an active pastime...or, just over time..

Let's begin.. First, you need a place that has some room and is comfortable...this shouldn't be done on a couch in front of the tube... you could lose some parts..


The basic tool is a spring-bar tool such as the Bergeon 6111. Here it is at the bottom along with another standard spring-bar tool. You can see that the 6111 has narrow forks. These narrow forks are needed to fit in the narrow slot of the Rolex Bracelet:

Close-up


The first step is to remove the spring-bar from the clasp. Using the pin-punch end of the spring bar tool this is easily accomplished. A toothpick can also be used:

Here you can see how the spring-bar tool is inserted into the slot to capture the flange and pressing inward, compress the spring bar:


I recommend this "pinch technique" where the end-link is held between the thumb and forefinger while exerting some outward pressure to keep the spring-bar pivot from slipping back into the hole:


Once apart, we can see that we have the two spring-bars, the one for the clasp, and two bracelet halves. The outside half gets most of the abuse as is readily noticed:


We will use a green Scotch Brite pad for the touch up and to re-align the grain. About 20 strokes along the length while holding one end, then another 2o after rotating the bracelet and holding the other end. This helps ensure some uniformity and complete coverage:


Once we have it touched up to our satisfaction, the watch can be reassembled and given a warm soapy wash.. then it's ready for the box until called upon again:




.... Bracelet Installation Procedures......

Some have asked for tips on installing the bracelet back onto the watch head. I am using a different watch here. This watch has through lug holes and no slot in the end-link for a tool to fit. The procedure is the same for either style.

First, another tool is needed. I will use a case-back knife, but any flat blade will do the job..even a popsicle stick:


You may choose to tape the lugs to avoid scratches. Here I am using masking tape, but any durable tape will do, although I do not recommend "Scotch" tape as it easily shreds:


Install the spring-bar into the end-link and lay the link with the ends of the spring resting on the back of the lugs:


I recommend the same pinch procedure used for the removal here, but for photography, I show pressing down on the end-link and using the flat blade of the tool to compress the spring-bar end until it can be pushed between the lugs:


Once both ends are between the lugs, you can maneuver the end-link around a bit until you hear both pivots snap into the holes. ON through hole lugs, you can verify visually to ensure the pivot is visible in the hole:


If you choose not to tape, or did get an accidental scratch on the back of the lug, it is easily taken care of:


This is one of the best uses of the nylon fiber pens that are available at most watch part/tool Vendors:


Once you have these minor touch-ups done, your watch is ready for many more months of use before it's necessary again..



Here is a handy chart to use with the part number and screw-slot size for the various Rolex bracelets.

[clubsta]

Great Job, looks fantastic!

[kyle L]

Really great job Larry. Would you have any tips on the caseback?

[Tools]

Originally Posted by kyle L

Really great job Larry. Would you have any tips on the caseback?

Yes... Lay the case back flat on a flat surface with some 120 grit paper... slide it across the flat surface with the already established grain..

Someplace I have an article about removing an engraving from the back that shows the technique (probably in the Amateur Watchmaker Corner)...

[swissautopro]

Another great thread, Larry!

[CPTL]

Shocking that it's that easy. Great work, and great thread. Now I can remove the bubble wrap from my wrist.

[Speed]

Larry,

Great tutorial as always.

I know this was prompted by recent inquiries...I PROMISE to refer folks to this link going forward on any bracelet questions I may see on TRF.

Much appreciated.

[TSW]

Great job Larry!!

[Tools]

Originally Posted by Speed

Larry,

Great tutorial as always.

I know this was prompted by recent inquiries...I PROMISE to refer folks to this link going forward on any bracelet questions I may see on TRF.

Much appreciated.

No hidden agenda..

Sometimes I rely on you guys (and the new guys) to provide the inspiration for a timely article, or the resurrection of an old one...

[karmatp]

Another great tutorial Larry, you rule.

[subgmt]

Originally Posted by Tools

Yes... Lay the case back flat on a flat surface with some 120 grit paper... slide it across the flat surface with the already established grain..

Someplace I have an article about removing an engraving from the back that shows the technique (probably in the Amateur Watchmaker Corner)...

Hi Larry,

Great article. The back case cover has a glossy rim and sometimes it is difficult to polish without protecting the glossy rim. Sometimes deeper scratch happens at the edge rim of the case back near the polished rim. so it is difficult but any way thanks for the good tutorial on polishing bracelets. It always help.

Ace.

[JBat]

Great tutorial, Larry. I've been wanting to do this very thing. Once I get the right Bergeon tool I'll give it a go.

[walds11]

Larry, great tutorial.

A little OT...The spring bars on my Sub 16610 Y serial appear different. It's hard to explain, but they don't have the notches on the ends like your's. Maybe due to the fact that I have a no holes case and they require a different type of spring bar?

[onkyo]

Thank you Larry for these very informative tutorials.....

It will make watchmakers out of us all.

[Tools]

Originally Posted by walds11

Larry, great tutorial.

A little OT...The spring bars on my Sub 16610 Y serial appear different. It's hard to explain, but they don't have the notches on the ends like your's. Maybe due to the fact that I have a no holes case and they require a different type of spring bar?

Any no holes case should have these same spring bars. Some may not have the flanges on them, but they should be double shouldered..

A Sub, or many pre 2001 cases may have "through hole lugs" cases (I believe this is what you meant). These have springbars that only have a single pivot at each end. (no shoulders). This type of springbar is removed by using the shown "pin punch" end of the tool and, using the same holding technique, the spring-bars are compressed by pushing through the lug holes. The bracelet also may not have the slot in the back either since it is not necessary .........

Here are the three type of spring bars you will encounter. Through hole case, no hole case 2mm, and no hole case 1.8mm:

[ParisDakarBmw]

This is a great thread to send these question to. Many people have an interest in maintaining their watches, and learning. We don't see too many before, and after pics. This makes me wonder if people were trying to do it, and jacked it up. I'd hate to think about people screwing up their watches because they mis understood. This thread says everything with good pics. Thanks!

[tandrup]

Larry - thanks for sharing. Great overview.

[R1@160@alltimes]

Thanks for putting this step by step pictorial together - it sure answered some questions that I had.

[JJ Irani]

Originally Posted by walds11

Thanks Larry. I don't think my spring bars have the flanges on them. They are probably the first one pictured.

Those are designed for cases that have lug-holes through the lugs.

JJ

[robsteve]

Originally Posted by Tools

A lot of members seem to be interested in taking off their bracelet...and others about touching up the bracelet..

I noticed that quite a few of the bracelet pictures I see show wear on the shiny ends of the links. What causes this. The Oyster bracelet on my 20 year old 15010 only shows theses marks on the last links that rub the clasp. This is a watch I have worn almost daily for twenty years and shows lots of marks on the case and bezel, but the polished sides of the strap still look good, with only minor scratches.

Robert

[walds11]

Thanks JJ. I have a SS Sub Date Y serial with lug holes. Everything checks out

Originally Posted by JJ Irani

Those are designed for cases that have lug-holes through the lugs.

JJ

[Skullring]

Thanks Larry. Great post as always.

[Tools]

Originally Posted by robsteve

I noticed that quite a few of the bracelet pictures I see show wear on the shiny ends of the links. What causes this. The Oyster bracelet on my 20 year old 15010 only shows theses marks on the last links that rub the clasp. This is a watch I have worn almost daily for twenty years and shows lots of marks on the case and bezel, but the polished sides of the strap still look good, with only minor scratches.

Robert

Most of what you see on the sides are fingerprints and body oils. When finished with wearing the watch, or your touch-up, they are easily washed and wiped away......

[Tools]

..I've added bracelet installation tips to the initial post..

[dkpw]

Thanks Larry for a very clear and helpful set of instructions.

The nylon fibre pen is new to me, can you explain a little more about it. Should it just be used on brushed metal work? How do you use it?

Cheers!

[robsteve]

Originally Posted by Tools

Most of what you see on the sides are fingerprints and body oils. When finished with wearing the watch, or your touch-up, they are easily washed and wiped away......

I was thinking it may be from wearing other jewelry on the same wrist as the watch. I have seen people wearing a nice Rolex and then a large gold chain on the same wrist.

Robert

[rfknauss]

Larry, thanks for the great step by step instructions!

[louie]

you are AWESOME! i was just curious how to take out or put the bracelet back on to the case when i see no slot for the fork,and the "cover" seems not flipable cos i tired to peel it open Larry,your detail tutorial and photos just answer them all! Thanks man!!

[Willi]

Larry,

Very informative. You've done a super job illustrating everything, thanks for everything.

[David Woo]

Very nice photos, thanks Larry!
DW