First Rolex: 16600 SWISS dial Sea-Dweller

[Travelller]

Close to home
Looking at a Rolex in an AD's window never did it for me; usually the AD was keen on placing the diamond-studded versions of the Datejust and TT (two-tone) GMTs and Submariner Dates and the occasional Milgauss. Being the complications fan that I am didn't help much either, with the Daytona (again in TT...) not really drawing my attention away from the multitude of competition. A shame really, when I consider the fact that my own grandfather worked in their Genève manufacture for over 25 years... .


click-the-pics for hi-res goodness


Tool Watch
It was my fairly recent interest in the "Tool Watch" that slowly turned things around. Panerai, despite its not-so-tool-watch appearance, was my bridge to Rolex. My good friend Charles got me addicted to those 44~47mm cases and soon after, I had my first PAM. Not long after he surprised me, saying he wanted to go back to concentrating his resources on Rolex.. When I mumbled something like what the heck for, he showed my a photo of a 5514 COMEX. Then he showed me a 5517 "military" with its one circled "T" on the dial. Then an angled-shot of a 1665's T-39 Superdome... . That's when I understood that Rolex had a rich tool-watch history, beyond the diamonds and shiny TT cases... .




Saturation-Diver ... Sea-Dweller
Oyster Perpetual Professional. At least that's the group-name Rolex uses for their sports/technical models, such as the Explorer(s), Daytona, Deepsea, GMT, Milgauss, Submariner and Yacht-Master lines. My own interest however, quickly narrowed down to the Submariner and closely-related Sea-Dweller (SD) models. Although the Submariner's history is long and rich, I found the Sea-Dweller's shorter but just as exciting story to be most captivating. There's a ton of excellent information available on the 'net documented by people with vastly more experience than me so I will only mention some highlights here...



1665 - The first "official" Sea Dweller, released in 1971, came into existence after saturation-diving incidents where the french professional diving company COMEX and the U.S. Navy's Sea-Lab team discovered the adverse effects of helium during the decompression phases following a saturation dive. Thus the birth of the Sea Dweller and its gas escape valve* (aka HEV since Helium is the gas used in saturation diving). The 1665 was rated to 2000ft/610m which was roughly three times the rating of [5513] production Submariners (660ft/200m) of the same period. The 1665 model includes the famous "DRSD" or double-red which had the lines Sea-Dweller and Submariner 2000 in red. Rolex eventually stopped using red print and the all-white lettered SDs received the nickname Great white. As a side note, prototype Sea-Dwellers (aka "single red" / SRSD) were produced around 1967, rated to 1650ft/500m and The COMEX-only 5514 version of the 5513 Submariner were fitted with HEVs.
*In order to provide full disclosure, it has been noted that Rolex partnered with DOXA to produce the one-way, escape valve solution and DOXA was first-to-market with their SUB300T (~1969).



The 1665 was superseded in ~1978 by the 16660 (aka triple-six) and some years after by the 16600. The model# change was to signify the move from the 3035 to the 3135 movement. Both had the newer gloss dials with white-gold marker-surrounds (apart from what I assume to be the remainder of 1665's matte dials used with the first batches of 16660s). The case of the 16600 was slightly altered, perhaps to support the new movement. Any other potential differences are unclear to me. The new generation of the Sea Dweller brought about even greater depth-ratings thanks to changes in the case, the replacement of the 1665's plexi with a thick sapphire crystal as well as a notably larger escape valve. These innovations provided the Sea Dweller with an impressive 4000ft/1220m depth rating! The next-gen Submariners, in comparison, managed an increase to 1000ft/300m with the migration to sapphire, improved Triplock crown, etc. Aside from the amazing depth certification, the Sea Dweller also benefited from solid end-links (SEL) and a bracelet with solid center links. Compared to the Submariner's tuna-can hollow links, the SEL & robust bracelet were a considerable improvement. To many a Sea-Dweller fan's dismay, the Sea Dweller was replaced by the Deepsea (DSSD). While the DSSD is an impressive feat of technology as well as an important tribute to Rolex history, it is quite a different animal. As such, many SD fans would have loved to see it released as an independent model and not as the SD's successor... .




16600 - SWISS - Lug Holes
Like most watches of the period, Rolex used tritium paint for their dial-markings and hands. Eventually they made the move to [Super-]LumiNova - just as all other companies did - to avoid the potential dangers inherit to radioactive materials like Radium and its successor Tritium. The 16600 was one of the models that went through the change. Up to roughly 1997~98, they had tritium dials, marked by the industry-standard SWISS-T < 25 just below the 6 o'clock marker. In 1998, Rolex made the transition to [Super-]LumiNova by changing the dial lettering from SWISS-T<25 to SWISS. Not long after (late '99 or early 2000) they changed the label to Swiss Made for reasons beyond my knowledge. Other companies use L Swiss L or even L Swiss made L but all these variations refer to modern [Super-]LumiNova-painted dials/hands (and of course the fact that the watches are manufactured in Switzerland). After reviewing the various Sea Dwellers available, I decided on a [Super-]LumiNova dial and lug-holes (the SD "loosing" its lug-holes with the F-serial 2004 model). I managed to find two units that fit my requirements, a 1999 A-serial SWISS and a 2003 Y-serial Swiss made dial. Both seemingly in the same condition, I went with the SWISS dial as it is a bit more unique.




The look and feel that is Rolex
Having been wearing larger and heavier watches, I was concerned that the SD might come across somewhat ...lacking, but it was quite the contrary. Not only does the SD, with it's 143g and robust stature compete with my 144g 44mm PAM, but the iconic Rolex tool-watch design demands the wearer's attention. The dial, the hands, the bezel and insert, the lugs, crown-guard and crown itself all come together in perfect harmony - no feature is overwhelming, no feature expendable. Add to that the HEV which emotionally serves to remind the wearer of the rich history Rolex has with professional diving. While I enjoy using a myriad of straps with my Panerai, the SD is not restricted to being worn on its bracelet (albeit a nice bracelet at that). With the help of so-called NATO straps, the SD achieves that rugged look associated with the military. Recent hi-quality rubber straps have also provided the SD with a new look.
Looking past form is naturally function; the fact that the 16600 SD is powered by the C.O.S.C.-certified 3135, one of the most dependable Rolex movements ever built, completes the package and makes this my perfect first Rolex.

[subtona]

Congrats! Those are some amazing pics!

[Watchguy69]

Insightful and entertaining post, thanks. Congratulations on the acquisition, magnificent piece.

[s2kev]

Great post and amazing pics!

[Travelller]

Thank you gents!

I wanted to add a Lume comparison. On the image you'll see the Super-Luminova color-type and it's percentage of efficiency compared to "C3" - a cream-white colored Super-Luminova. The S.A.R. has white-colored Super-Luminova, much like Rolex's chromalite, the SD has [most likely] C1 - also white and the PAM has a pale-green colored lume. I am referring to the paint colors as seen in daylight.


click to view in original size.
f/8 15s. all dials are visible at 60min - some monitors may need adjustment.

[elev8w]

Awesome post. So glad for actual insight and new knowledge!

[Lorenzo]

wonderful review and pictures. thanks traveller!

[amaninspired]

Brilliantly written and insightful post about, quite possibly, the finest watch Rolex have ever made!

[Racerdj]

Love the dark shots.

[Travelller]

Thanks everyone, much appreciated

Being a Panerai buff I'm used to changing it up regularly with a strap change I never really considered the idea with other brands, even having seen many a tool-watch on NATO.

When I picked up the SD I assumed I'd be wearing it on the bracelet, period. But after seeing the many Rolex tool-watch owners here wearing theirs on NATOs I had to give it a try. Love it! The only thing quicker than Panerai's quick-strap-change solution is swapping out NATO straps Not as easy but still a great option for Rolex tool-watches are Rubber B's straps. They're mounted just like the bracelet but are a bit easier to work with since there's less risk of scratching the case. I'm sure I'll eventually go back to the OEM bracelet but for now, I'm having too much fun changing it up

[accce]

Those are some great Pictures. Thanks!

[Lgear080]

Your photos are perfect. You should document every model this way.

[wingku]

What a great review with perfect photos!

[sea-dweller]

Nice photos!

[OCGirl]

I love the photos! Thank you for sharing.

[samsmart]

Wonderful review. Great pictures. I always loved my SD, will have to buy another one day.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

[impalass]

Don't know how I missed your thoughtful and informative review.

The shots are superb, falling in love with my SD all over again.

[Travelller]

Thanks everyone

I wore my 233 all week long but this Saturday I just had to strap that SD back on my wrist
My humble tool-watch collection's only three-strong but it's already making it hard for me to choose between them...

...so rotation it is

[Presa canary]

Amazing pics of a amazing watch. Enjoy

[Cru Jones]

better late than never, i found this thread! amazing pictures and an even better write up. thank you for sharing and congrats.

[jw0n]

Wow, whoever it was who dug this thread back up... thank you! What an awesome read. And brilliant pics! Thank you @Travelller!

[AWA]

very cool review

[Travelller]

Thx guys A few more straps for the collection

[JMAK]

I just got my 16600 less than 2 weeks ago. I LOVE LOVE LOVE it. Thanks for an awesome review and even better pictures. I can only wish I was as good with a camera as you are sir!

[Psmith]

Belated congrats, and those are some great photos

[Puffy]

lovely snaps. what are you shooting?

[Travelller]

Thanks guys

I'm a Canon man and those shots were made with a 50D and my secret weapon, a very, very sharp EF-S 60mm

Originally Posted by JMAK

I just got my 16600 less than 2 weeks ago. I LOVE LOVE LOVE it.

Congratulations! I'm sure you'll love yours as much as I do mine Make sure to post pics / wrist-shot of yours on "the" SD thread:
Club 16600 Sea-Dweller Owners

[enhamhale]

Awesome pictures

[Lorenzo]

beautiful pictures! thanks for sharing travelller!

[Vincent65]

Just seen this - great post and super photos. I love this reference as well.. Here's my E(1990)-serial Tritium dial version: