Fist big North swell of the season

[skprd13]

Aloha Members,
Well it is that time of the year for huge North swells to start hitting the islands. It was bigger yesterday around 20 ft. plus but not a good picture day. It was really cloudy. So today I snapped a few that are averaging around 10 to 12 ft faces. Expecting another swell tonight should bring in waves they say around 12 to 20 ft faces. Anyway snapped a few for you to enjoy.

Aloha from Kauai,

Tom

[skprd13]

Not sure why I cannot post more than one picture?

[azguy]

20 ft faces are serious business

[SUBversive]

The sea was angry my friends

[skprd13]

Hey John,
Yes 20 ft faces for the most of us are scary kind. However the surfers here look forward to these swells. I have seen wind surfers just shredding Salt Pond on 20 to 25 ft faces amazing to watch when you know what to do. However you must know and respect the surf. Mother Nature can turn deadly in a split second. The biggest I have ever seen was like in don't hold me the the year 1992 Hanalei Bay closed out with 60 ft waves. It was an amazing site to behold. We will typically get one to two North swells a year that will easily top 30 plus foot waves on the face. Hawaiian style would mean 15 ft plus backside. My wife and I can always tell when the North swells have arrived because the noise is deafening in the house!

Aloha and have a great day my friends,

Tom

[vitalsignsrn]

The ocean looks fierce. ;-) Thanks for posting.

[bmpwatch]

beautiful picture. heard about the san diego surfer who supposedly drowned while surfing alligators....saying my prayers and hoping the best for him

[skprd13]

Hey Brad,
I heard about that one also while watching the triple crown this morning. The ocean is not a place to take granted. Mostly in Hawaii during the months with North swells.
Lst night my wife and I watched two helicopters about 7 miles out searching an area. Have not heard anything yet in the news. However it is usually not good news when we see that late at night.
Tom

[cop414]

Great pics Tom, stay outta that water!


BTW, I can only post one pic at a time from my iphone, not sure what the trick is. I assume you're still posting from your apple?

[azguy]

When I lived in SoCal I was on 8-10 ft faces a few times and that was the limit for my meager abilities. 4-6 ft faces were more my speed

[Cru Jones]

nice pix! thanks.

if anyone was like me and had no idea what makes swells in hawaii, here's an article and diagram:




Hawaii has seasons?

Instead of dramatic temperature changes, seasons in Hawaii bring drastic changes in ocean conditions. Ocean waves are created by wind. The strength and duration of wind over the ocean dictates the size of the waves that arrive along our coastline. The ocean is a dynamic creature that not only changes by the season, but by the hour. So many variables like ocean typography, tides, and local winds effect how these swells unfold at each beach. Knowing seasonal patterns can help you plan your visit, but with conditions constantly varying- check the ocean report for the daily update and always consult a lifeguard before you jump in!

Summer

Summer brings large waves predominately to the south side. Winter storms in the Southern Hemisphere generate swells that create breaking waves on south facing shores. Trade winds (northeast) and passing trade showers are typical summer weather.

North - usually flat to small waves except for areas exposed to trade wind waves

East - surf can get large and rough with strong trade winds

South - large south swells arrive frequently

West - south swells wrap around to the west side and can create high surf

Winter

Huge, powerful swells pound the North and West facing shores. Storms originating in the Aleutians that dump snow on the Rockies, cause freezes in the Midwest and wreak havoc on the Eastern seaboard are the same storms that create gargantuan surf on Hawaii's northern and western shores. The waves generated from these powerful storms are extremely dangerous and unpredictable. Never underestimate the power of the ocean. Winter weather brings more variable winds and increases chances of encountering longer spells of rain.

North - huge, dangerous swells consistently

East - surf can get large and rough with strong trade winds

South - usually flat to small surf during winter, can be sunny even if it is raining up north

West - north swells wrap to the west side creating high surf, your best bet for sun and dry weather


(http://www.kauaiexplorer.com/guides/...urf_trends.php)

[masterserg]

Awesome!