Rolex Cellini or other Dress Watch?

[mwallens]

I am currently helping a friend decide on the purchase of a new dress watch and his budget is 20k (preferably 15k). While I know some would say the "right" move here is a Patek Calatrava, Vacheron Traditionnelle or A. Lange & Sohne Saxony, he is looking for something interesting and different that stands out from the pack visually. He is looking for rose gold and a leather strap but does not want the ordinary look of gold with a white/silver face. We had narrowed it down to the black Rolex Cellini Date or gray JLC Master Ultra Slim Moon when it occurred to me that there is a whole world out there of smaller, often independent watchmakers. I have been doing research and come across the H. Moser & Cie. Mayu Marrone, Arnold and Sons HMS1 (gray face), Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate (black face).

What are your thoughts on going with the more main stream brands versus the smaller and/or independent manufactures? Are there other suggestions you may have given the criteria?

Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.

[teager]

I'm not sure about the small independents you mention but it seems the Cellini doesn't get a lot of love on this forum! In fact it hard gets mentioned at all.

I love the watch and I expect you'd get a good discount off list price for one but for that amount of money it brings a Calatrava or Saxony into the equation which is probably where my money would go.

[eightbore]

Frankly, while it is a bit out of spec relative to what he wants, I would get a Nomos Orion 1989 and put 15K in the bank or use it to buy a couple other watches to start or round out a collection. Otherwise, if he is intent on spending that on one dress watch, I would go JLC any day of the week and twice on Sunday.

[Runnin' Rebel]

50519 is an amazing Cellini !!!

[Rolextix]

You may be hard pressed not to go with a Vacheron, calatrava, or ALS. In fact, I'd call your friend crazy not to go with one of those. However, JLC is also a good pick.


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[zama]

Originally Posted by Rolextix

You may be hard pressed not to go with a Vacheron, calatrava, or ALS. In fact, I'd call your friend crazy not to go with one of those. However, JLC is also a good pick.


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I would agree with this, maybe a Moser they look nice, not sure on price drop, Parmigiani are nice as well in that space with a good discount.

[Star Ferry]

He could get a reverso. Not exactly rare but the case shape stands out from the pack

[OrangeSport]

There are many great choices listed. Historically I wouldn't have considered Rolex's offerings in that company, but they have really upped their game with these:



Especially for a dress watch which can be a little more casual too.

Patrimony for me though, or an a Arnold and Sonf, or, or..... Oh I don't know... I do like ALS!..

[Rock]

The important thing here is that he makes his decision having had the chance to peruse a variety of watches that meet his criteria.
Price is not important unless he is trying to impress somebody or massage his own ego.
Personally I think the new Cellinis are stunning. All of them.
I've never been impressed by "big" names so I buy what appeals to me not what draws gasps of admiration from the people who worship money.

[HL65]

Can't go wrong with Lange, Patek or VC for dress watch. I would take Lange myself but tell your friend to go try a bunch on and that is the only way to decide. As for Cellini's not my thing.

[1William]

I would go with a pre-owned JLC and save a lot of money. It would handle the dress watch and could be a good daily watch.

[77T]

If he is less aware of brand name vs. visually different, then there are so many smaller watchmaker choices. One thing I would say is to think long-term.

By that I mean the staying power of the manufacturer - will they be here or defunct? How and where can routine warranty servicing be done? Availability of replacement parts for the model? Can independent watchmakers work on the piece - and get OEM parts to fix it?

That's where the larger mainstream companies excel.

Those are some criteria for him to consider along with looks.

While not exciting, that's where a traditional choice makes sense. Dress watches usually mean discrete, graceful timekeeping to me...




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[Old Expat Beast]

Honestly speaking, I'd rather go Grand Seiko than Cellini.

[GsurgBM]

Jlc moon.

[sutats]

Something interesting and different that stands out from the pack visually you say? Take a look at Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso range, the father of sports watches. The golden ratio case dimensions is striking.

[Mick P]

Chaps

Methinks that Rolex is a strange company. It makes brilliant SS sports watches that are iconic and will be remembered for time in memorial and then it comes up with some tasteless tat such as a Cellini, passing it off as a dress watch.

A dress watch is a slim simple gold watch with a minimalist approach. The Cellinis are dressed up tat that would look good on a pimp.

You do not buy a dress watch because you like it, you buy it to serve a purpose at a formal event where men dress low key. Think of it as a military uniform, you wear what is expected of you, not what takes your fancy.

If you like a Cellini, then fine, please feel free to buy it. But please, never ever try to pass it off as a dress watch, because it isn't.

Regards

Mick

[jrs146]

Originally Posted by 1William

I would go with a pre-owned JLC and save a lot of money. It would handle the dress watch and could be a good daily watch.

+1 on this. JLC makes some amazing watches that fall in between dressy and sporty and pack a HUGE value, especially pre-owned.


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[eightbore]

Originally Posted by Old Expat Beast

Honestly speaking, I'd rather go Grand Seiko than Cellini.

Uh oh...here we go! :)

[johneh]

If I were looking for a dress watch and I had that budget, a Celini wouldn't even get a second look. ALS, PP, or Vacheron all the way.

[Gasoil4ever]

Originally Posted by Old Expat Beast

Honestly speaking, I'd rather go Grand Seiko than Cellini.

+1 any day !

[AK797]

For dress, Lange would be my go to.

[WS9D]

How often would he be wearing it? If he's like me, and rarely would, it'd be a bit of a waste. If it will see little wear, I also recommend a Nomas and use the left over money to buy a nice sports model. It's really hard to say not knowing what else is in his collection.

If he will be wearing it often, my vote is for a JLC or ALS.

[Star Ferry]

Originally Posted by Mick P

Chaps

Methinks that Rolex is a strange company. It makes brilliant SS sports watches that are iconic and will be remembered for time in memorial and then it comes up with some tasteless tat such as a Cellini, passing it off as a dress watch.

A dress watch is a slim simple gold watch with a minimalist approach. The Cellinis are dressed up tat that would look good on a pimp.

You do not buy a dress watch because you like it, you buy it to serve a purpose at a formal event where men dress low key. Think of it as a military uniform, you wear what is expected of you, not what takes your fancy.

If you like a Cellini, then fine, please feel free to buy it. But please, never ever try to pass it off as a dress watch, because it isn't.

Regards

Mick

My 14 year old Calatrava looks about the same as the current Cellini. There is nothing "pimped out" about the Cellini design.

[AzHadEnuf]

I agree, if he wears a dress watch often, get the Lange. If it's a seldom occasion, go Nomos or a Glashutte Original Senator and put the rest of the funds towards a piece that will get used.

[Skip Greenwade]

I have a rose gold Prince that as I wear as my 'dress' watch and really love it... it think it is well within your friend's price range

Best,
Skip

[Eric Chan]

For that price range, Cellini would be my choice.

[Wing-Co]

I've see all these Cellini watches and they are fab - but too expensive. I would have a standard ALS Saxonia over them all!

[SearChart]

Originally Posted by Old Expat Beast

Honestly speaking, I'd rather go Grand Seiko than Cellini.

Yep, I'd take a 2013 Grand Seiko diashock reissue over a Cellini any time.

[aayates]

How about a Girard Perregaux 1966 rose gold with blue face. I think that fits his requirements and is about $15k new. I know I like mine (traded a jlc ultra-thin in for it).

[GradyPhilpott]

Originally Posted by Star Ferry

There is nothing "pimped out" about the Cellini design.