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2 August 2017, 11:00 PM | #1 |
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link removal tool
Ok so Im looking at the Bergeon 6767-F for bracelet removal.
It only has the fork and pin tips. I also need a screwdriver for the removal of the links. Does the Bergeon tool above have fitment for driver heads? I have found this on Amazon.ca. https://www.amazon.ca/Bergeon-55-686...n+screwdrivers Also, which Loctite do you use for the link screws? |
2 August 2017, 11:24 PM | #2 | |
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Quote:
Also, for the screwdriver 1.6mm is perfect one for the Rolex screws (talkign about oyster bracelets) however, make sure it is hollow tip/point. Rolex 2100 (best one) or the Panerai 1.6 mm screwdriver will be your best bet. I see you are in Canada, if in Toronto, go into the Panerai Boutique in Yorkdale mall and see if they will sell you one of the drivers. I ordered my 7825 (and other tools) from a AD for Bergeon here in Toronto. PM me and I'll give you the details if needed.
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3 August 2017, 02:33 AM | #4 |
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Questions
1. What is a "hollow tip" screwdriver? why do you need that? 2. Is Loctite necessary? does it get messy trying to get the loctite in the hole? |
3 August 2017, 03:02 AM | #5 | |
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Yes, loctite is necessary. It's best to use a toothpick and dip a minute amount into the screw hole, then tighten down with the screwdriver (without much force from your fingers). A 222 grade should work fine, low strength, but it's more than enough. |
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3 August 2017, 03:08 AM | #6 |
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It's not "hollow tip", it's a "hollow ground" tip screwdriver.
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3 August 2017, 03:22 AM | #7 |
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This
BTW what is the screwdriver size for jubilee bracelet 62510H, is it 1.2 or 1.3?
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3 August 2017, 03:22 AM | #8 | |
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Quote:
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3 August 2017, 03:27 AM | #9 |
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3 August 2017, 04:06 AM | #10 |
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3 August 2017, 04:24 AM | #11 |
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the hollow grind fits into the slot better, and won't slip as easily and transmits more torque to the slotted head.
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3 August 2017, 04:33 AM | #12 |
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Just a little extra warning, be wary or hollow ground tips that are very thin at the actual blade.
I ordered two from Ofrei made by Horotec. The corners of both snapped with marginal pressure. Had better luck with a standard blade that was just thicker and flat at the point. |
3 August 2017, 08:07 AM | #13 |
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Hi guys, just wanted to ask in your experience is it better to get the watch from the AD and adjust the links yourself?
Also do you really require the loctite when changing the links or can you just make them really tight by hand? I only ask because I'm weary that the AD where I'll be picking up my Sub date may not have a watch maker there and just the sales rep may end up changing the links and I've heard the horror stories of when that happens. I have changed links on my breitling before which has a screw connecting the links and I've never used loctite. In 9 years it's been bashed about and never once come loose. Also I'm looking to get a rubberB strap for the watch and I'll most likely get the Burgeon 7825, saves me going to get it changed by a watch shop whenever I decide I want to swap it around. |
3 August 2017, 11:29 AM | #14 | |
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Quote:
Locktite is advisable as the movement of the links can make the screws back out. Brietling screws are different, link movement is unlikely to do anything, but I still use Locktite anyway. If you don't have Loctite some say clear nail polish works too. |
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3 August 2017, 01:54 PM | #15 |
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