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Old 17 June 2020, 06:18 PM   #1
theflywrist
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Can a permanent link from an AP RO bracelet be removed/put back?

Hello there ladies/gents,

Hope everyone is well.

I figure, we do have a lot of experienced AP collectors and potentially some watchmakers too, and so I would like to ask.
I have recently acquired an RO that has an issue I had previously not seen. I have asked some other dealers, and they had seen it in the past with some other vintage APs.

One of the permanent link on the bracelet has the inner pin that is welded inside the link slightly protruding out.
I have no idea how this would have happened, however it is a 30 year old watch.
It is relatively rare, and after hunting it for so long, I have decided that I can live with it if it is not salvageable.

I am however going to try to see if it can be "fixed".
I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with removing/opening up a permanent link. Is it possible to do so without damage? And will re inserting the link back also be possible, again without causing any damage or stretch?
I am already prepared for the worst case, being that it will have to remain as it is, and I cannot salvage it, however I am definitely going to try(not myself of course).
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Old 17 June 2020, 07:04 PM   #2
rumnyc
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Why not take it to a AP service center and ask them to do it? Yeah it will probably take a while to get an response but at least it will be a safe route...
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Old 17 June 2020, 10:46 PM   #3
theflywrist
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Originally Posted by rumnyc View Post
Why not take it to a AP service center and ask them to do it? Yeah it will probably take a while to get an response but at least it will be a safe route...
Thanks for the response!

One of the dealers I had reached out to had a similar issue, and told me AP had suggested buying an entire new gold bracelet.
While I am not against that idea, it would leave me with a service (newer style) bracelet on an old watch, and this really diminishes the charm for me.
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Old 17 June 2020, 11:09 PM   #4
Caramba
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theflywrist View Post
Thanks for the response!

One of the dealers I had reached out to had a similar issue, and told me AP had suggested buying an entire new gold bracelet.
While I am not against that idea, it would leave me with a service (newer style) bracelet on an old watch, and this really diminishes the charm for me.

I realize it might not be easy to make, but a picture of the damaged link would really help.


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Old 17 June 2020, 11:28 PM   #5
theflywrist
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Originally Posted by Caramba View Post
I realize it might not be easy to make, but a picture of the damaged link would really help.


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Here we go buddy!
My mistake, should’ve posted with the initial post.
I love the watch and reference a lot, and it was too hard to hunt it down for me to pass over this issue.
I suppose we all have different thresholds, but as a vintage watch lover my expectations are not to seek “perfection” anymore

As for photos of the entire watch.
That will have to wait for an incoming thread ;)
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Old 17 June 2020, 11:51 PM   #6
KBM
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Originally Posted by theflywrist View Post
Here we go buddy!
My mistake, should’ve posted with the initial post.
I love the watch and reference a lot, and it was too hard to hunt it down for me to pass over this issue.
I suppose we all have different thresholds, but as a vintage watch lover my expectations are not to seek “perfection” anymore

As for photos of the entire watch.
That will have to wait for an incoming thread ;)
Wow, I was expecting something much worse. I don't think I'd bother to get that tinkered with, let alone buying a new full gold bracelet!

You said it yourself: with older or vintage pieces, the charm does not lie with aesthetic perfection. My guess is that if it looks great to me from that close up pic, on the wrist it must actually look perfect.

My take is enjoy the watch, the hunt is over!

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Old 18 June 2020, 12:23 AM   #7
theflywrist
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Originally Posted by kauebm View Post
Wow, I was expecting something much worse. I don't think I'd bother to get that tinkered with, let alone buying a new full gold bracelet!

You said it yourself: with older or vintage pieces, the charm does not lie with aesthetic perfection. My guess is that if it looks great to me from that close up pic, on the wrist it must actually look perfect.

My take is enjoy the watch, the hunt is over!



Haha!
Thanks for the kind words!

It really isn’t bad, it does somewhat show from the front view as you can see.
I can easily live with it and would proudly sport it regardless, but I would love to learn if it is salvageable.
There are tons of wizards, and I am putting my faith in LAWW :)

I will definitely create a thread soon enough. :)








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Old 18 June 2020, 05:34 AM   #8
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Seems that it has been overly polished. There are good watch service and repair shops that work with laser surface cladding and which should be able to fix that and return it like new ... just an example https://www.tourby.de/service/aufarbeitung/ cf. the example 9.

AP apparently tries to convince their clients to buy a new bracelet, watch case or bezel if they are not convinced that they can economically fix it in like new condition.
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Old 18 June 2020, 01:38 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drhk View Post
Seems that it has been overly polished. There are good watch service and repair shops that work with laser surface cladding and which should be able to fix that and return it like new ... just an example https://www.tourby.de/service/aufarbeitung/ cf. the example 9.

AP apparently tries to convince their clients to buy a new bracelet, watch case or bezel if they are not convinced that they can economically fix it in like new condition.
Unless you have seen it before, there is a very interesting video about how the bracelet is made on youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=93ak85GiGrI

The pin, after it's penetrated into the link, is welded and grinded to make the smooth edge. Most likely the bracelet has been polished too much, so that the pin eventually cut through what remained of the original weld.

I guess the repair method would have to be done the same as the way-
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Old 18 June 2020, 01:57 PM   #10
theflywrist
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drhk View Post
Seems that it has been overly polished. There are good watch service and repair shops that work with laser surface cladding and which should be able to fix that and return it like new ... just an example https://www.tourby.de/service/aufarbeitung/ cf. the example 9.

AP apparently tries to convince their clients to buy a new bracelet, watch case or bezel if they are not convinced that they can economically fix it in like new condition.
This was exactly my initial conclusion. Even though this was the first time I ever found this particular variant for sale in gold (after looking for one for a LONG time), I let it go. After looking closer, it genuinely didn't seem to be the case regarding being over polished though.

The seller did not have the best photos, but after acquiring the watch, I can say without a doubt that it has exceeded my expectations and is in exceptional shape, which is why it doesn't make sense.
I have seen really chewed up vintage APs, and I mean REALLY bad shape.
From 5402s, to 14790s, I've seen a lot of extremely thin polished out RO's, but never did the pin protrude due to poor polish. Notice that the pin on that same link in the bottom side has not protruded.
I believe it was due to some accident, or shock, maybe a drop? I can't be sure, but it doesn't appear to be an over polish.

I will undoubtably be back to give everyone an update, as well as share photos. Hopefully we will have our answer soon enough
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Old 18 June 2020, 02:03 PM   #11
theflywrist
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caramba View Post
Unless you have seen it before, there is a very interesting video about how the bracelet is made on youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=93ak85GiGrI

The pin, after it's penetrated into the link, is welded and grinded to make the smooth edge. Most likely the bracelet has been polished too much, so that the pin eventually cut through what remained of the original weld.

I guess the repair method would have to be done the same as the way-
I'll definitely let you know if there ends up being a way to repair it.
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Old 18 June 2020, 04:36 PM   #12
drhk
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I know the video of the making of AP bracelets. When I wrote polished I did not refer to the entire bracelet but only to the chamfer of the respective link. Maybe it was badly hit as you said and/or afterwards the chamfer was overpolished to get rid of the dink. But I am sure that you find watch service or
a jeweler service like the one I postet that can repair that even for relatively small money.
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Old 18 June 2020, 05:18 PM   #13
theflywrist
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drhk View Post
I know the video of the making of AP bracelets. When I wrote polished I did not refer to the entire bracelet but only to the chamfer of the respective link. Maybe it was badly hit as you said and/or afterwards the chamfer was overpolished to get rid of the dink. But I am sure that you find watch service or
a jeweler service like the one I postet that can repair that even for relatively small money.
Very true it is possible. Perhaps a poor attempt at trying to fix a hit.
Will post an incoming thread once I have the watch back. Im having it sent to check movement, and see whether the issue can be rectified.
I will be sure to update everyone though, it can be helpful to know for the future in case anyone has a similar issue.

Have a nice day buddy.
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