Curious About Bracelet Clasp

[Nick9]

Here’s one that has me stumped.

An antique dealer buddy today showed me a 1603 from 1972 that he recently bought. I took a good look and the watch seems all correct and in good working order.

But I’m not that knowledgeable about vintage Rolex bracelets — I’ve seen lots, but I know there are many variants and lots of aftermarket fakes. The end links on this one (sorry, no picture) looked far off.

I did get a picture of the clasp, and it’s posted below. The bracelet was a Jubilee, or perhaps a Jubilee clone.

Anyway my friend and I would welcome welcome any thoughts on whether the clasp pictured below is the real thing.

Thanks in advance, I sure appreciate it.

[JustinK]

It’s real and the end links are unmarked on these bracelets.

Actually a very comfortable bracelet, I wear on with my 70s GMT.

[springer]

It's a genuine, vintage USA Jubilee. They were made up to the later part of the 1970s.

[Nick9]

Wow, you guys are good. And fast....didn’t even have time to get a coffee.

Very much appreciated. Can’t thank you enough.

[lhendrickson]

Originally Posted by Nick9

Wow, you guys are good. And fast....didn’t even have time to get a coffee.

Very much appreciated. Can’t thank you enough.

This place is rad! Glad you got an expedient answer and swell bracelet.

[Nick9]

Well, here’s an update.

Apparently I lit up when I looked at the watch (perfect Sigma pie pan dial) and so it was offered to me. After some friendly back and forth on the value, I will get it in a day or so.

I like it a lot when a good watch falls from the sky with no hunting, especially when it’s local and I know the seller personally. The bracelet will need some work, but of course the various “consumables” are not a big factor.

When I get it, I’ll post a picture of the end links. Might be lucky on those also.

Thanks again for all the help.

[TimeLord2]

Originally Posted by Nick9

Well, here’s an update.

Apparently I lit up when I looked at the watch (perfect Sigma pie pan dial) and so it was offered to me. After some friendly back and forth on the value, I will get it in a day or so.

I like it a lot when a good watch falls from the sky with no hunting, especially when it’s local and I know the seller personally. The bracelet will need some work, but of course the various “consumables” are not a big factor.

When I get it, I’ll post a picture of the end links. Might be lucky on those also.

Thanks again for all the help.

Looks like a great candidate for a Bracelet rebuild. Rolliworks.

[timnik]

I've got an oval link USA Jubilee which came with my dads 1675 GMT (1969)

It was almost falling apart. I sent it to MY in 2006. I didn't wear it for years because the end links were a really bad fit. After reading a thread on here I decided to try it again with some swiss 580 endlinks from my 62510 jubilee.

What a huge difference. I wear the oval link jubilee all the time now. I like the big crown clasps on the USA models.

[Richard Carver]

Mmmmmm, oval link. :)





Perfectly broken in and smooth as silk. :)

[cfracing]

Don't mean to hijack this thread, but I didn't want to start a similar thread. I have a 16013 two-tone Datejust from '78-'79 with a USA made TT Jubilee bracelet. Does anyone know which DJs got Swiss-made bracelets and which got USA made, and why? Also, I am sending this bracelet to Michael Young because it is extremely stretched. MY charges almost twice as much ($400 vs $265) to work on a USA bracelet than a Swiss one. Does anyone know why?

[crowncollection]

Depends on the market it was intended for only heads were shipped to countries licensed to make bands due to taxes at the time


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[Nick9]

Hi, all. The saga continues and of course along come a few more questions for the group.

First picture is the dial, taken at an angle to show the texture. I thought it was a linen dial, but now I’m not sure whether it has another name. The bottom text is T SWISS T, with the Sigma marks. No issues I can detect.

Second and third pictures are the bracelet. Someone above mentioned unmarked end links. These are unmarked (second picture) but a shape I haven’t seen before and they are not a particularly good fit. So my questions for the wizards here — are these end links legit? And if not, which ones should I be looking for?

The third picture is just for posterity, showing the stretch in the bracelet. I’m sure we’ve seen worse, but pretty bad. Interesting repair to the clasp — sometime in the past, an extra hole was drilled into the side of the clasp so that the watch would wear tighter. I guess that didn’t work — one side has the extra hole, one doesn’t.

This is the third McGuyvered Rolex bracelet I’ve seen in just the past year and I’m wondering whether it is common, or if I’ve been travelling under the “innovative watch guy let me have a go at that” cloud.

As usual, all comments welcome and thank you in advance.

[baumare]

The dial looks like a linen dial from this photo...

For the end links you can find some info in this discussion
https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=787648

[timnik]

See the very poor fit of those USA Jubilee end links.

My dad wore a USA Jubilee oval link bracelet on a 1969 1675 GMT up to 2004.

Because of the bad fit they have contributed to almost wearing away the serial number on the case lug.

Fortunately I inherited the watch and it now has either Swiss 558 for the Jubilee or 580 when I use the Oyster. The Swiss 558 work fine with a USA Jubilee on a GMT.

They look so much better as well.

[Nick9]

Thanks, guys. Interesting read about the fitment issues.

Still not sure if the end links pictured could be genuine? And, timnik, is it the 258 Swiss that you are also suggesting for my DJ? It’s 20 mm, on a strap for the time being.

Thanks.

[Yachtbuoy]

I'm not as familiar with the USA bracelets but it looks like the wear pattern on the underside of the lugs is consistent with the end links, and it takes time for that wear pattern to occur. Looks good!

[timnik]

Originally Posted by Nick9

Thanks, guys. Interesting read about the fitment issues.

Still not sure if the end links pictured could be genuine? And, timnik, is it the 258 Swiss that you are also suggesting for my DJ? It’s 20 mm, on a strap for the time being.

Thanks.

I think 555.

They will fit a DateJust

[springer]

The end links depicted in the photos are original oval link end links. USA bracelets did not come with stamped end links except for occasionally you will find some with the number 50 stamped on the left ear which were probably GMT end links.

[Nick9]

Certainly enjoyed hearing the good news on the bracelet.

Lucky to find this watch and lucky to have all your generous help.

Thanks to all.