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8 April 2009, 11:18 AM | #61 |
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I paid $1800 for my liberty safe back about 14 years ago, I am sure they have gone up in price since.
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8 April 2009, 11:31 AM | #62 |
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Check this link out for all the safe ratings. Most all safes will have these ratings on the safe somewhere. Hope this helps.
http://www.thesafesource.com/safe_ratings.htm |
8 April 2009, 11:31 AM | #63 |
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I have the Liberty National Security Magnum. I got it a couple of months ago and I'm pleased with it so far. I don't have a pic of it, but it's 50 cubic feet and has a fingerprint reader incorporated into the lock. I think the weight is in the 1500 pound range.
http://www.libertysafe.com/safe_magnum.php |
8 April 2009, 11:44 AM | #64 |
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A long time ago, I used to keep all my watches, my wifes jewelry and all other valuables like coins and bullion in a safe deposit box. One day, I noticed a jewelry store in a mall where I live was going out of business. Tracked down the owner and handed him cash for his safe. An ISM TR/TL 6X....this baby is official. Had to hire a special hauler to get it to my house and they used a massive hydraulic lift and large metal plates to put it in position. Cost a little more to move it than own it.
But baby, even if you compromise my security system and my doberman, you ain't getting into my safe. And you better catch bullets from a FNP-45 in your teeth. The price you pay for security. |
8 April 2009, 11:58 AM | #65 |
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I looked at the Liberty safes, and even their top-of-the-line one is only rated as a RSC and not even fire rated. One way that the safe companies cheat on the fire ratings, is that the cook the safe at a given temperature for a given time, and measure the internal temperature, but then stop the test. This is what they claim in their advertising. The internal temperature will usually continue to rise quite a bit for an hour or two. The UL testing procedure is to continue to measure the temperature inside until it starts to cool back down. You need to look for "UL Class 350" (stays below 350 degrees F) or "UL Class 125" (stays below 125 degrees and a certain humidity level, designed for computer media, good protection but expensive and heavy). They'll also say how long the rating is for, usually 1/2, 1, 2, or 3 hours.
Burglary ratings are TL-15, TL-30, TL-30X6, TRTL-30, etc. It's fairly in-depth, and probably more protection that most people need. Making sure it's bolted down well is also very important. As someone posted before, fire is probably the biggest thing to worry about. Some companies that make real rated safes are Meilink, Amsec, Gary, Gardall, Hayman, and some others. The brands like Liberty and the gunmaker-branded ones are sort of the fashion-watches of safes. They look great, and work OK, but there are better ones available. |
8 April 2009, 01:21 PM | #66 |
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This thread is awesome! I don't have a safe, but have enjoyed reading about them here. Some great food for thought.
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8 April 2009, 04:17 PM | #67 |
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2TH DR/MARK: I had the guys who did my surround sound system install my safe. They said there is NO WAY you can pull out the safe once its bolted in. Have you seen the size of the bolts? They're ENORMOUS!!! Lastly, let's say you have a $100,000 safe or a $300 safe. A guy shows up at your house, puts the gun to your head, you're going to open that safe... so, in the end the person who has his rolex/valuable in the shoebox is probably the smartest... the rest of us are just doing what we would assume is the safest... and YES that is 2 Vertus in my safe... (the 3rd one I am using and therefore, not in the safe). :)
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8 April 2009, 04:46 PM | #68 |
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Nice thread! One safe option not yet mentioned this the smaller ones that are cemented into your floor. Neat concept, often have to spend a little extra to ensure it's water tight, and very well hidden.
I have researched for quite some time, and for my needs I want to get an amsec or amvault new, and am considering an older round door Mosler. These TL ratings make me wonder sometimes, as a local store got hit a few years back, and there OLD tl60 safe was cracked in minutes. My vote, the strongest cemented into a reenforced wall, well hidden. I can dream to then fill it up! LOL!
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8 April 2009, 04:53 PM | #69 | |
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8 April 2009, 09:26 PM | #70 |
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pls post pic of ur pen collection!!! and dental assistants!
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8 April 2009, 10:13 PM | #71 |
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They do now this is a public forum and what security you have etc IMHO should never be discussed on a Internet public forum.
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ICom Pro3 All posts are my own opinion and my opinion only. "The clock of life is wound but once, and no man has the power to tell just when the hands will stop. Now is the only time you actually own the time, Place no faith in time, for the clock may soon be still for ever." Good Judgement comes from experience,experience comes from Bad Judgement,.Buy quality, cry once; buy cheap, cry again and again. www.mc0yad.club Second in command CEO and left handed watch winder |
8 April 2009, 11:11 PM | #72 | |
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Maybe the best route is to just insure them and be done with it. |
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8 April 2009, 11:18 PM | #73 |
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i mentioned earlier in this thread that I have a hard-core, huge safe in the basement. But it's a pain to open (very complex combo) - and if someone broke into my house, I would have to tell them to wait 5 minutes while I go downstairs and open the safe.
so I am looking at buying a smaller one for my office for 1 hand gun and the watches I wear the most. the big safe is still the best bet for the most expensive stuff and things you don't need to access often. |
8 April 2009, 11:26 PM | #74 |
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I have a very cheap safe. It is visible to any would be theif.
In it, boxed and ready to go, are some of China's finest replica's. I figure that anyone intent on robbing me will hold a gun or knife and I will risist a little befor eopenning the safe. They will make off with a few hundred pounds and some cheap chinese tat. My watches, well they are hidden. Hiding is the best safe, so long as you have a decoy. |
9 April 2009, 12:05 AM | #75 | |
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9 April 2009, 12:32 AM | #76 |
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I use my safe only to store my guns. I won't store my watches with my guns unless I get a really large safe in the future with a section that I can use only for watches. After reading this thread, I may though consider buying a very small safe to keep my watches.
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9 April 2009, 12:56 AM | #77 | |
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Any close up photographs of the Vertus?! |
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9 April 2009, 03:29 AM | #78 | |
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Anything of material value is...somewhere else ;)
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9 April 2009, 05:11 AM | #79 |
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My safe is only part of my security system the other parts include an alarm and dog. In the dog's case it might be co-oped for a steak. So you need the alarm for back up. Everything is a deterent most burglaries are crash and grab so the alarm, dog and safe just makes me that more difficult and unappealing. Just some random thoughts.
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9 April 2009, 05:52 AM | #80 |
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I have a Fort Knox vault much like the Liberty safe posted by Tools/Larry. You can't go wrong with something like that.
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9 April 2009, 07:25 AM | #81 |
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I know this is somewhat odd, but just a heads-up in case anyone out there is also a comic collector - with the values of certain old books constantly breaking sales records, many have begun to store the books within fire proof / resistent safes.
With that said, there has been some documented cases where the chemicals used within these types of safes has led to an accelerated rusting of the staples - There is some information at the below link - http://boards.collectors-society.com...140967&fpart=1 I am not sure if or what else might experience the same acceleration as we are only talking about staples here, but on a few thousand dollar book, |
9 April 2009, 08:23 AM | #82 |
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Heh! Not sure my assistants would allow me to post pics of them, but here's a few shots of my pen collection...
There's Mont Blanc, S.T. Dupont, Cartier, Jorg Hysek, Aurora, Alfred Dunhill, Bossert & Erhard, Sensa, & Cross. Sorry for the poor quality of pics. |
9 April 2009, 08:48 AM | #83 |
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I agree on that if you were at gun point, quality safe won't do any good.
May be put it in the FIRE-PROOF pouch before hiding in the shoes box http://www.iepfire.com/pouches.htm |
9 April 2009, 09:14 AM | #84 | |
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That is quite an extensive pen collection. I nearly purchased my first "nice" pen this past Christmas. My girlfriend bought me a Waterford pen for graduation. I like it, but it's certainly not hanging out in that club!
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10 April 2009, 08:21 AM | #85 |
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I would check out as many brands as possible before I bought. I suggested earlier in the thread liberty safes, but I would check out american security also. You can request catalogs from either company that will have the specs of each model. You can get comb inations of shelving for the inside and drawers for the inside of the safes so you are not restricted to it just holding guns even though it is considered a gun safe. One thing to consider is the there are different sizes and prices within each model. So you may have a liberty presidential or lincoln, but it could be 25 cu ft to 50 cu ft. Also, if you are not putting it on a concrete slab foundation I would reinforce the flooring where it is going to be placed with some of the safes pushing 1600+-lbs. Some of the safes look so good that they could be considered furniture IMO.
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18 April 2009, 01:11 AM | #86 |
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That's a great idea - someone could just hose the mess out if you shot yourself in there.
We said no guns, we mean no guns, Nimrod. Six points. Whoops - that makes it twelve. Buh-bye.
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19 April 2009, 02:20 PM | #87 |
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Si. ;)
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19 April 2009, 02:26 PM | #88 | |
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20 April 2009, 10:41 AM | #89 |
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T&t
Check out the T&T Liberty Safe website. They have some very nice affordable home safes that carry a guarantee. I personally like the looks of the T&T safes. Mine is gloss black and has lights inside with a power source. I actually keep my winder inside the safe.
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